Garage Laminate Flooring
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FAQ
- We are re doing our kitchen and living room floor and we would like to do wood flooring. We have a concrete slab so from what I have read we can't go with solid which was what we wanted but a few people have said engineered would be fine just wanted more opinions from any one who has done it or know more about it
- Yes it ll be fine as long as care is taken when it comes to cleaning and you know that possibility of extra water in a kitchen area. Only 2 ways to apply engineeered wood over slab. You can have it glued down or a floating floor system. Some engineered woods come already to install in a floating floor and others you can make into a floating floor. Since you already have a good base ( the slab) I would suggest tile, perhaps in a wood look because of the potencial water and cleaning. The cost would be close to the same.But your house, your choice. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar. GL
- I am removing a built in book case at one end of my family room and found that the hard wood floor does not go under the book case but stops at the book case. This wood floor is what i think is called an engineered wood floor where it is set on top of concrete and maybe glued to the floor? What are my options for either adding on to the floor where the book case will be removed or am i better off pulling up the whole floor and starting over?
- If you can possible find the same wood were the tongue and groove fit together , yes you can add on just as they had to and that was to glue it down. You ll more than have to tear out the last row so you have access to either the tongue or the groove, which ever way it was layed. And then go from there. One other coarse other than ripping the whole floor up is to use a T mold which spans both floors and you can just add on from there. Avoid trying to rip up glued down engineered wood flooring, its an SOB to do. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar. GL
- My husband and I installed an engineered wood floor in our basement a year ago - about 1100 sq. ft. Within a month we noticed 3 spots that give or make a sticking sound when you walk over them. Obviously, the adhesive didn't take or it was partially dried when we laid that portion of the floor (hey, that's what no experience gets you ; ) Water and humidity are not a problem in this basement, concrete sub-floor has cured for 15 years prior to installation and it is level.One suggestion was to drill a small hole and use a hypodermic type needle to inject more adhesive under the floor and then weigh the spot down for it to adhere. Any other suggestions that don't include ripping the floor up? Or any suggestions on where to buy the hypo-glue tool?
- Gee everyone makes it seem so easy. It was done years ago so it is solvent based adhesive. Those remover solutions that people are talking about are mostly for spot removels not large areas. Chances are that the glue has sucked into the grain of the wood especially if it's oak. Go to a flooring place and ask them what to use (not a home center,those people know jack sh*t).Better yet ask them what it would cost for them to remove it.
- I've looked at Armstrong, Bruce, Mannington, BuildDirect, and Lumber Liquidators. I'm looking for something light-medium, not too golden. I want to pair it with black cabinets for a Kitchen project.
- I assume you mean random lengths not widths. Most engineered wood come in one length but not all. Mohawk has a couple of lines that carry 1' 2' 3' and 4' boards and in engineered wood that is considered random lengths. To get varying widths you have to mixed boxes , from the same manufacturer to do different widths. Just to get the consistency of engineered wood the length have to be some what standard. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar. GL
- nan
- Solid wood composite floor can be divided into two types according to the structure,One for the three layer of solid wood (three layers: the surface is 3-5 mm fine noble hardwood layer)A multilayer wood (surface 0.3-0.5 mm precious wood skin, other than 7 layer is arranged in a crisscross pattern glued into hardwood);
- I need to match the engineered hardwood from Summitt Forest (Mendocino, American Walnut 5in wide, 0.5 inch thick, Autumn Harvest color). Has anyone else done this before? If you have can you share a close match?
- We had engineered floors in our Cary home. I hated them, but that's another story (but I agree with your husband--keep your tile in the kitchen because one drop of water did damage ours). I was told that ours could be refinished once (not sure about changing the color). You need to check with whoever installed yours about that. But, if you did refinish the existing floors you may never be able to do it again. Personally, if you're committed to putting down engineered floors, I'd stick with the same color unless you want to tear out what you already have.
- The meritage bistro flooriand the Armstrong rural flooring are the ones I am looking at. They are both hand scraped
- If it were just a bedroom, it wouldn t matter at all. But since its going it a higher traffic area, the solid , full hardwood is much better in the long run because it can be redone several times. If your going to put it in yourself and the traffic in the house is high, no kids and animals, you can do either. Since engineered is easier to install for a DIY er and will hold up fine under lighter foot traffic. Get a quality wood in whichever you pick. Cheapest isn t the way to go in an investment for flooring Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar. GL
