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FAQ

Surely it is subject to the same expansion and contraction associated with laminate and engineered flooring?Also, can an underlay be used with solid tongue and groove flooring if it is nailed? It would help with sound insulation.

hardwood has been done a certain way for hundreds of years because thats the system that works engineered and laminate floors are different not only in composition but design and need a different installation technique if you want to add soundproofing there are commercially manufactured materials already on the market but mostly they block impact noise

We're looking to lay an engineered wood floor as a floating floor in our upstairs living area. I was wondering which brands are of a good quality and easy to install?

Hi, Mirage engineered floors has won a survey by retailers for quality for the fourth time. They are a quality engineered product that has a wear layer that is equal to 3/4 solid wood and can be sanded 3-5 times during its life. Bruce is another name that is highly recommended.

nan

Real wood floor is natural wood as raw material, from the surface to the bottom is a real tree processed wood floors. Wood floors are beautiful and natural. No pollution, light and strong, easy processing, good heat insulation, temperature regulation, late condensation and strong durability and other characteristics.On the above two kinds of tree species, I personally prefer disk points

In my living room I have a brick fire place. When I install the wood floor I wood like it to appear as if the floor was installed first and then the brick fireplace on top of it. How do I cut the brick to slide the wood planks into the brick to achieve the look I want? What tool would be needed?

Here are some tips: When cutting, saw into the prefinished side first to avoid chipping the finish. Always use a carbide-tipped blade. Use blue painters tape along the area to be cut to help prevent chipping the prefinished surface. Use a tapping block to move the hardwood into position. Do not hit the hardwood flooring directly. Keep the installation area as clean as possible. Do all the cutting in another area. Place tools on a piece of cardboard on top of your hardwood to avoid scratching or damaging your new floor. Always work from your subfloor, not your new hardwood floor. All of these tips came from the quick installation guide that I posted.

I live in a condo apartment on the 2nd floor. I want to soundproof the floor, but I don't want carpeting. Therefore, I glued a cork underlayment to a wood sub floor. Now, I want to glue the engineered wood floor to the cork underlayment. Is this reccomended?

If your cork is down well and the glue you use will bond to the cork, your ok. Check out what type of glue your using. Most urethane based glues will work. GL

We are trying to decide between two products based on their different application. 1. Home Legend Maple Durham click-lock to be installed floating (with moisture barrier and padding)2. Shaw Brass Maple to be glued (using new one step non-toxic glue) Our slab is not perfect. We are doing a large 700 sq ft room including foyer, kitchen, hallway, and large living area. I do not like the hollow sound laminate makes and want to avoid this. Should we glue the floor or install floating? We will be installing ourselves (husband works in masonry).

Last summer I installed about 1200 ft2 of floating wood floor in 5 different places in the house. After a year everything is looking good and there are no issues with floor. I was careful to make sure the floor had room for expansion and there are no humps or shrinkage openings. Neighbor across the street has a few humps in his glued down version. When you walk across the floor, there is a slightly hollow sound but I have had this in nail down floors. Where the floor slab had some dips the sound is a little more hollow. One of the reasons that I decided to go with the floater is that I could work at my own pace and not have to brace the floor so that it did not expand overnight with the glued version. I did a nail down 1300 ft2 in a previous home and it was solid with 15 pound tar paper under it. That floor had the hardwood click to it. It was much harder to install than this floater. In looking at the fact that the flooring is not all exactly straight and perfect and that I could not do 700 ft2 in a day and did not want to brace, I would probably go with the floater again. You still need a vapor barrier under the glued floor to prevent moisture absorption through the slab.

How much aluminum oxide or AO (in weight proportion, or ounces or milligrams) is often in engineered hardwood floor finishes, and how much of the AO is released into the air through normal usage (walking on the floor, typical activities) or if there are small scratches?Is the amount of AO released into the air on such flooring significant versus background AO levels?I realize that sanding/refinishing an engineered floor will release much more AO into the area, but my main concern here is about general household use.Thanks, Michal

Unless you walk around with sandpaper glued to your shoe soles I doubt there would be any detectable amount released from normal usage. There are certainly far more substances I would be concerned about in a house environment than that. If you are really obsessed about it, contact the flooring manufacturer for data.

I have a new home with engineered wood flooring. The wood floors are peeking at the joints. Whats wrong?

I agree with the first answer! It can happen with almost any type of flooring- there must be a small edge left around the room - same with tile - the wood floors will 'peek' and tiles can crack- the base molding hides the edge and leaves room for the expansion.