Power Cable Construction

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FAQ

Hi, I have a router connected to the internet, but one of the computer is 80 feets away from the router and it can not get 100MBps. I have force the computer to use 10MBps. Could someone please let me know what will impact the speed of cat5 cabling?

Ok, please note the following: MB/s = MegaBYTES per second Mb/s = MegaBITS per second 10MB/s = 100Mb/s (roughly) Your router and NIC card is 100Mb/s (unless they are both Gigabit - Gb/s which will give you roughly 100MB/s in speed assuming both the NIC and router can support that speed.) I hope this answers your question.

My car's stock stereo is pretty low power, probably less than 20 watts. I would like to replace the power wires with better ones, if not for any real benefit to sound quality then simply to satisfy a personal whim. 8 gauge wires would be too I think for the small spaces. Anyway, would a good quality speaker wire work just a good as a power wire of the same gauge?

I trust DJ. additionally you are able to try your subs with a volt meter. turn the meter to ohm mode and touch the finally leads to your subwoofer pos. and neg. (it incredibly is unhooked from the amp). this promises you a analyzing which could be a mild one million,2,4,6, or maybe 8. If the extensive style bounces around ANY, then your subs are broken. you are able to basically be working 4 ohm whilst your amp is one million ohm reliable or some thing. in line with threat try rewiring your subs too when you do the flexibility. The decrease your speaker ohm load, the greater watts you get out of your amp. warning**** do no longer go below the cautioned ohm load of you amp. it's going to capture fire or blow fuses once you're fortunate.

What does the cable ZR-YJV22-4 * 16 mean?

Copper core XLPE insulated PVC sheathed flame retardant power cable, three core, nominal cross section 6 square millimeters, rated voltage 0.6 / 1kV, model specification specification: ZR-YJV0.6 / 1KV3X6mm ^ 2.

So my vehicle's amp recently stopped working. It worked great after I installed it about a year before, so after testing for shorts, burnt out fuses, etc, I decided that the amp had died on me. After getting a new one-and it not working either-I checked the voltage at the end of the power cable where it hooks onto the amp. I get a 12v reading when the ignition is off, but only a 4v reading when it is in the run or aux. position. The in line fuse is good, as well as the battery (just had it checked). Any ideas as to why this is happening? As of this posting, I have NOT tried running a new power cable yet, but that is the next step if nobody has an answer. Thanks.

If the electronics paintings, then it isn't the battery, Hooking up the skill twine the floor does no longer something, there is not any longer a circuit to end, without skill. Even the distant turn twine, having skill, would the two placed the amp into risk-free practices, or pop the fuses...Does it attempt to coach over? or if no longer, does it have a starter solenoid?

Trying to troubleshoot my computer I have been unplugging and replugging wires. After a while of looking around I have found that the ATX power connector is missing a part of the pin. Now my computer is unable to boot. Is there a way to fix it. Or am I stuck going to get to a new computer.

Im confused, which cable is this? If this is a home-built PC RMA your power supply but if it's a HP/Dell/Whatever then call them for support and/or warranty info.

I'm installing a new hard drive and I need an extra power cable. Thing is, I've only got one in my computer (15 pin SATA) I have a spare SATA port for the data, so that's not a problem. Anyone know of any multipliers or some way i can add an extra power cable?Thanks in advance

Yes, okorder

Okay I need help.I lost the power cable for my modem, so now I am using a 18v 1A cable, the input of the modem needs 15v 1.5awill this be compatible or will it burn my modem?

Get the proper supply. It will be easier on it. With that supply, it could overheat and prematurely fail.

Okay so I'm production manager for a play in Oxford and I need to have a giant cardboard box drop from the ceiling triggered by an actor with a remote control on stage.I've found a rather nice electromagnet which should do the job which is triggered by a 9V battery. The trigger is an IR unit I'm building which finishes with a relay. The question is can I use a sound XLR cable as the wires in my circuit between the battery with the IR unit and the electromagnet?i.e.Electromagnet -----XLR-----gt; battery -------XLR-----gt; IR unitStandard XLR's do have 3 cables in and surely I only need 2 to complete the circuit.The only reason I'm thinking about using XLRs is that I'm not sure of the distance between things yet and I have plenty of XLRs in many different lengths.Any ideas?

Yes, you can use your XLR cables and plugs and connectors for a low power 9VDC application. Before you start doing all this, just make sure how many ohms your electromagnet coil has. If it is below 20 ohms, then you can not use a small 9V battery - you need a larger, more powerful battery, such as a stack of 6 AA cells that would easily deliver 1 A or more.