• Pvc Insulated Electric Construction Cable System 1
  • Pvc Insulated Electric Construction Cable System 2
  • Pvc Insulated Electric Construction Cable System 3
  • Pvc Insulated Electric Construction Cable System 4
  • Pvc Insulated Electric Construction Cable System 5
  • Pvc Insulated Electric Construction Cable System 6
Pvc Insulated Electric Construction Cable

Pvc Insulated Electric Construction Cable

Ref Price:
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Loading Port:
Tianjin
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
100 m
Supply Capability:
50000 m/month

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Quick Details

Place of Origin:

Zhejiang, China (Mainland)

Brand Name:

cnbm

Model Number:

VV YJV VV22 YJV22 VV32 YJV32 VV62 YJV62 VV72 YJV72 YJLW02 YJLW03 KVV

Insulation Material:

PVC or XLPE

Type:

Low,Medium and High Voltage

Application:

s electric power distribution networks or industrial installations

Conductor Material:

Copper or Aluminium

Jacket:

PVC or PE

Filler:

Non-hygroscopic Polypropylene(PP)

Binder Tape:

Non-woven fabric

Metallic Armour 1:

Galvanized Stainless Steel Tape Armour(STA)

Metallic Armour 2:

Galvanized Stainless Steel Wire Armour(SWA)

Metallic Armour 3:

Non-magnetic Steel Tape Armour(only for single core)

Metallic Armour 4:

Aluminium Wire



Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Details:wooden drum; iron-wooden drum or steel drum
Delivery Detail:Depending on the quantity

Specifications

2015 new product electric power cable 
1 Conductor:Copper or Aluminium 
2 Insulation:PVC or XLPE 
3 Voltage:Low/Medium/High Vol

2015 new product electric power  cable  

Technical Parameters of our Power Cable 

1). Standard: IEC60502; GB/T12706;IEC 60840;IEC62067;GB/T 11017;GB/Z 18890

2). Detailed description or construction:

    * Conductor: compacted or uncompacted copper or aluminium

    * Insulation: Cross-linked polyethylene (XLPE) or Polyvinyl chloride (PVC)

    * Filler: Polypropylene filament with lapped binding tape

    * Binder: Binding tape

    * Inner sheath: Polyvinyl chloride (PVC)

    * Armour: Galvanized steel wire armored (SWA) or steel tape armored (STA)

    *Sheath: Polyvinyl chloride (PVC)

3). The rated voltages U0/U(Um) of the cables considered in this standard are as follows:

    U0/U(Um) =0.6/1(1.2)-3.6/6(7.2)-6/10(12)-6.35/11(12)-8.7/15(17.5)-12/20(24)-12.7/22(24)-18/30(36)-19/33(36)-26/35(40.5)KV

4). Voltage:

     0.6/1kV, 1.8/3kV, 3.6/6kV, 6/10kV,6.35/11kV, 8.7/15kV, 12/20kV,12.7/22kV, 18/30kV,19/33kV,26/35kV

    In the voltage designation of cables U0/U(Um):

        * U0 is the rated power frequency voltage between conductor and earth or metallic screen for which the cable is designed;

        * U is the rated power frequency voltage between conductors for which the cable is designed;

        * Um is the maximum value of the "highest system voltage" for which the equipment maybe used.

5). Application:

     For laying indoors, in tunnel or cable trench with large difference of level able to bear external mechanical forces.

6). Marking: According to the customers' requirements

Pvc Insulated Electric Construction Cable

Pvc Insulated Electric Construction Cable

Pvc Insulated Electric Construction Cable

Pvc Insulated Electric Construction Cable

Pvc Insulated Electric Construction Cable

Pvc Insulated Electric Construction Cable

Pvc Insulated Electric Construction Cable

FAQ

·         Can we make an OEM order?

o    We can offer or supply goods as customers' requirements.

·         How can I get some samples? Free or not?

o    We can send some normal samples, absolutely free.

·         How does your factory do regarding quality control?

o    "Quality is priority." We always attach great importance to quality controlling from the very beginning to the very end. Our factory has gained ISO9001 , SGS authentication, CE for Europe, etc.


Q: I am dead!!! My mom and Dads' Town Country is old, a 1996, but my dad loves it. He keeps it looking new. He will never get rid of it. I am 20y/o and screwed up. I slammed the driver side door and when I tried to roll it up, the back came up. Not the rest. I took the door apart, and there are cables all undone, and I don't know what the hell to do. I don't have a lot of money or time. They will be back in three days. I called the dealer, they said $300.00. I'm toast. Can anyone save me from this death sentence?
the regulator is broken. the cable broke and came out. it happens all the time. it wasn't because you slammed the door, it was old age. the only thing you can do is replace the regulator. if you were smart enough to get the door panel off you should be able to replace the regulator. its pretty self explanatory. you may be able to get a regulator at a parts store, i'm not sure on this van. the one from the dealer won't be that much if you do it yourself. if you have them do it, its the regulator plus 1.5 hours labor.
Q: I can't find out where to put my SATA data cable at... My computer has a SATA power cable though, but I can't seem to find where to put the SATA data cable, I have the data cable in my hand. Can somebody help me? Since I have a SATA power cable in my PC does it mean I can put a SATA data cable in my PC? My PC is a: hp compaq, model: DPS-240EB, if that helps...
Should be labeled on the motherboard, if not look for a port that looks like the end of the cable. It only will fit in a SATA port so your safe to try to fit it.
Q: So I've had my laptop for about a year and a half now and I've gone through 4 power cables, 3 non-factory. What happens with each one is, I plug it in, the blue light surrounding the hole turns on, the end of the power cable that plugs into my laptop gets super hot and either melts the power cable, or when I plug the cable in, the light won't come on unless I have it in just right. This usually starts to happen between one and three months after I get a new cable. It's starting to go through them faster now, any ideas?
you have a power short in the computer that's why it is getting to hot and melting the cables, get it seen to immediately
Q: I looked on 3 of my friends plus mine and looked at the cord that comes from the big block power supply thing for the xbox 360 and every one of them looked differant. Why is that?
The new Xbox360s manufactured since October 2007 have a 175w power supply, whereas the older original Xbox360s have a 203w power supply. This is because they have different equipment.
Q: How can we make out the physical size of a power cable if the cable is said to be 4 core, 150 sq.mm ??? How will we measure the diameter of this cable ???? please suggest......
A 4core (electrical) cable of that strength is usually built up from quarter circle shaped sectional wires. (Think of a pizza cut into four even pieces.) So, calculate the outside diameter from this point and add 4 times the insulator thickness. Example: 400V 4core cable has very likely 1mm insulator thickness. 150mm? * 4 cores is 600mm? total. By A=PI*d'*d'/4, d' being the diameter without insulator, would be d'=2*sqrt(A/PI)=600mm?/3.1415...=2*sqrt(...? Now, as said above, add the 4 insulator layers, and then you would be at approx. 31.7mm outside diameter.
Q: My power supply (tagan 1100w) has an 8pin m/b power cable but the PCIe one looks cooler.
Noooooooooooooooooooo!
Q: im selling just the brick power cable. Is 50 dollars a good price?
most people who have a xbox, have a power bar, 50$ is way to much like above i would go for 15-30 30$ if you are lucky
Q: I'm trying to plan out my new install and I'm debating whether or not to spend money on power cable adapters and run o gauge to a distribution block thats 0g in and 4g out, therefore running a 0 to 4g cable adapter inbetween every terminal on the distribution block --or-- to Instead run 0 to the distribution block and 4 from the block to everything. I have a 1200RMS sub amp and a 200RMS 4-Channel amp. Hi output alternator. Big 3. So if anyone can give me some advice on whether or not they're worth the money that would be awesome. Oh and my amps accept 4 gauge.
I okorder /
Q: I recently bought a 750watt power inverter and there are two small cables to connect to it that look like small jumper cables. Can i connect my regular (longer/bigger) jumper cables to the car battery and connect the other end to the inverter cables??Ive been told that this will blow the inverter, and i've been told otherwise. Please let me know if you've had any experience doing this.Thanks,
That's fine for a temporary use situation. However, if you are going to be using this regularly in the same vehicle, I would recommend a more permanent installation using 4 ga power wire directly to the positive terminal of the battery. Make sure you install a fuse on that wire as close to the battery as possible. If the jumper cables are cheap and thin, or the contacts are coroded or not making good contact, this can cause the voltage to drop to your inverter and cause it to draw more current and possibly fry the power supply.
Q: The power supply I have has 8 Peripheral cables. I need just a few more than that. Is there a cable splitter I can get? Or what can I do? I have the power, just need the extra connectors.
capability furnish cables - no situation. USB cable, ensure you employ the comparable style of cable. HDD cable, you need to purchase longer ones, it rather is a extra efficient option than attempting to enhance the single you have. There are some sign themes in case you attempt to enhance the cable.

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