• Water Pump For Water Wells System 1
Water Pump For Water Wells

Water Pump For Water Wells

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
-
Supply Capability:
8000 unit/month

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Quick Details

  • Place of Origin:Henan, China (Mainland)

  • Model Number:200QJ25-252

  • Theory:Centrifugal Pump

  • Structure:Multistage Pump

  • Usage:Water

  • Power:Electric

  • Standard or Nonstandard:Standard

  • Fuel:Electric

  • Pressure:High Pressure

  • Application:Submersible

  • Material:Cast Iron / Stainless Steel

  • Color:Blue

  • Flow:25m3/h

  • Head Range:210-290m

  • Power:30kW

  • Motor Rated Current:65.4A

  • Scope:deep well , borehole

  • Pump Size:8" inch, as request

  • OEM,Design Service:Accept

Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Details:wooden box packing, as request
Delivery Detail:5-7days after payment confirmation or as customers' requirements

Specifications

water pump for water wells
1.Flow range:10~500 m3/h
2.Lift range:10~600m
3.well diameter:175~400mm
4.high efficiency

water pump for water wells

1. Operation parameters :

  Flow range : 10-500 m3/h

  Lift range : 10-600m

  Applicable well Borehole diameter : φ175-φ400mm

2. Product overview :

 QJ submersible pumps are widely used in agriculture irrigation, sprinkler irrigation, well water lifting and water supply, drain system of industrial and civil building, as well as the hill, mountain areas’ water diversion, drainage of low-lying area, water supply, drainage of industrial and mining enterprises in urban and rural area and all the other water facilities. And the characteristics of them: motors and pumps assembled into one, simple structure, easy installation and removal, small area, simple using and maintenance, safe and reliable operation, no pollution to water, etc.

QJ using condition

 4.1 380V voltage deviation is no more than ±5%,frequency is 50HZ,three -phase power deviation is no more than ±1%.

 4.2 Motor cavity must be filled with water.

 4.3 The first stage impeller of the pump should be more than 2mm below the moving water surface, pump unit should be less than 70m below the static water level.

 4.4 The distance from the motor bottom to well bottom must be more than 3m.

 4.5 Water temperature should be no more than 20°C.

 4.6 Sand content of the water ( by mass) should be no more than  0.01%.      

 4.7 PH value of water 6.5-8.5.

 4.8 Hydrogen sulfide (H2S) content of the water should be no more   than 1.5mg/L.

 4.9 Chloride ion content of the water should be no more than 400mg/L.

4.10 Water yield of water source should ensure the requirements of pump continuous working.

Q: I drive a 1995 Acura integra ls model I'm mechanically inclined just not enough to do a headgasket (more patience wise) my car loses coolant once in every 3 weeks it starts to over heat. I don't have white smoke coming out of the exhaust or milky oil. Everything else runs smooth on my car. I've head it pressure tested and every thing else checks out so I'm kind of lost. All hoses are fine and not leaking and there is no coolant leaks showing up on the ground. Any ideas?
head gasket sealant interior the truck so there replace right into a head gasket concern from the get pass? putting that crap in it replace right into a band-aide. and now you're caught with the subject. it incredibly is uncertain at this factor climate gasket sealant additive replace into used to tackle a leaking chamber or in the event that they have been given fooled by a a danger intake gasket concern. do no longer comprehend the unique indicators that triggered that undesirable selection. sorry! i might say that sealant crap ultimately passed on to the great beyond. no person ever would desire to have positioned that stuff in there interior the 1st place. would desire to have dealt with the subject somewhat of using a band-aide in a bottle that motives greater issues that it *tries* to unravel. i pass to get a combustion leak tester later, yet i'm basically questioning. so which you're taking this to a great ASE keep for analysis? i'm going to enable them to interrupt the undesirable information to you.
Q: Give me a general intro. about submersible water pumps.
A water pump can have all the works above the water, pulling by suction and pushed by atmospheric pressure to a maximum of about 33 feet. Or it can have the motor above water and the lifting mechanism below with a long rod connecting (like an oil well with the donkey engine on the surface), but a bunch of weight and friction. Or it can be waterproofed and the motor and pump lowered down the drilled shaft on a plastic pipe with an electrical cord along side and push the water up. The last is a submersable. Similarly sump pumps and recirculating pumps where the cord, motor, and pump are under the liquid.
Q: Ok, if my intake manifold wasnt mess up and it could be my water pump would I still smell a syrup odor and WHY would it be leaking green antifreeze? especially when the antifreeze I use is orange?
Okay, I take it you've added orange anti-freeze to your cooling system. If the system originally had green in it- you just did something really expensive. The two kinds of anti-freeze don't get along. Mixing the two together then getting them hot makes them into a gel. SO, what you get to do now is a complete system flush(by taking the whole system apart-heater core, radiator, hoses, heater valve, the works) use some sort of flush product, and get a large tub. Then, after you've gotten an amount of it out, reassemble the whole thing, and with the engine cool-put some more flush agent in it. Then, take a garden hose- and fill the system. once it's full open the petcock and continue to use the garden hose to flush the system until the water comes out clear. Now, close up the system and run the car for a bit and check the bottom of the water pump to see if the weep hole is leaking. There is on just below the pump shaft. If that's leaking, the pump is shot. If that's not, then there could be a cracked head, or a bad head gasket. A few things to check for that are- if when the car is running, are there air bubbles coming out of the radiator(with the cap open)? Does it seem to overheat easily? Have you run the engine hot?
Q: So I need to make a human powered water pump... Does anyone know how to make one? Any websites that could show me would be nice.MORE DETAILS:The pump is on the ground...it needs to pump water from a reservoir into another reservoir that is two meters high and two metres across from where the pump is... The pump needs to be handheld too. What should I use and any good plans on how to make it?
The simplest manual pump is the lever-arm pump. This is just an elongated cylindrical reservoir, a valve casing, and a pump chamber in a linear arrangement. A piston within the pump chamber is connected to a link, and a handle which is used to pump the water. You can make a simple one by converting an ordinary bicycle pump. Attach an input hose to the air inlet, and an output hose to the pressurized air output for the tire. A good way to develop plans on how to make it would be to visit your local sporting shop or auto parts shop and look over their pumps. .
Q: When I buy submersible pump, the other party did not inform is the aluminum submersible pump, water pump factory production of aluminum submersible pump illegal? Is it against the law to sell the pump to the pump without informing me?
When buying, if you ask for a copper wire or a wire, and don't answer you, it's against the principle of good faith. On the contrary, if you did not ask to buy the water pump with aluminum core, then there is no violation. Because the country does not have any laws and regulations prohibiting the production of aluminum core wire motor, naturally there is no aluminum wire motor as a fake and shoddy products, there is no pre notice obligations.In fact, the aluminum core motor is good, and the price is low, especially in the dry environment of small and medium-sized motors, with good performance. Only used in submersible pumps, because aluminum is easier to damp than copper wire, due to bacteria and other corrosion, and its life is sometimes less than copper wire. But the water pump, aluminum often needs to rewind coil, because of a small submersible pump motor is not good around general scrap.
Q: Is it a must to change the entire water pump since only driplets of anti-freeze leak out over a 7day period from the bottom of the pump? Can i simply change the gasket and make it all better? Water pump is pumping and making no noise, vehicle isnt over heating.
water pump is bad if its leaking you need a new pump sooner the better new gasket along with new pump not very offen a water pump gasket will leak and they hardy ever make a sound and will not over heat til it pumps all the coolant out which you dont want which might just cost you a motor you replace whole water pump an d replace with new gasket
Q: I will be replacing my timing belt soon. The dealer is suggesting that I also replace the water pump. Is that really necessary? When do water pumps normally go out?
The labor involved in replacing a timing belt will normally cover the installation of a water pump as well. The reason the dealer is recommending the water pump replacement at this time is that the labor involved in changing the timing belt makes it much more cost effective for you to do it at this time. Even though your water pump is working great right now, if you need to replace it in the future, the labor cost will be enormous and close to the cost of replacing your timing belt alone.
Q: What does water pump mean?
According to use: - water pump, pump, slurry pump, sewage pump, sewage pump, well pump, submersible pump, pump, pump, fire pump and other household. It's a device for pumping liquid.
Q: Here are specifications for two water pump sets. I would like to know which one will have more vertical suction.Pump 1:1.5 hp, 98cc Engine, 4 - Strokes RPM 3600 (Engine RPM), Petrol Fuel, Fuel Consumption 700 ml/hour, Delivery (horizontal) 50m, Inlet / Outlet Port (Dia) 1.5x1.5 inches, Output Capacity 48000 Litres / Hour.Pump 2:3.3hp, 163 cc Engine, 4 - Strokes RPM 3600 (Engine RPM), Petrol Start amp; Kerosene Run, Fuel Consumption 700 ml/hour, Delivery (horizontal) 26m, Inlet / Outlet Port (Dia) 2x2 inches Output Capacity 36000 Litres / Hour.which one should I go for.
The first one appears to have a higher flow rating but neither gives a head figure, which is the maximum height it can work to above the pump. Lift from below a pump is limited to 32ft on any form of water pump; that is the limit water will rise to with a total vacuum above it. A normal pump cannot pull a perfect vacuum so working lift will be somewhat less. The practical limit depends on the pump head in use and it's actual head limit; the total height from the pickup point to the delivery point count as working head. Any kind of centrifugal pump or one which cannot also pump air perfectly will need a foot valve at the base of the inlet pipe and a priming system to fill the pipe and pump body with water before the pump is started. If you expect the water level to be more than 10 - 15ft down, you would be better off with a submersible pump; the only limit then is the head rating which can be just about anything. Get a suitably rated petrol or diesel generator as well (3x the pump power rating) if it must operate independently of mains power.
Q: the car is a 1973 Pontiac Lemans, 350 V8. Water pump needs to be replaced. It's obviously a mechanical pump that's in there now. I was thinking of getting something with more capacity (to start off) as I feel the car could do with a better cooling system (and I have to get a water pump anyways). I was thinking of getting an electrical pump as that would also free up a bit of power from the engine. From what I gather, by doing this it seems I need to switch to an electrical fan also. Is that the case? Any advice/opinions on electrical systems and set ups? Any recommendations?Thanks in advance to anyone who answers. Much appreciated.
Most 1973 era vehicles have a clutch on the fan which stops turning at higher engine rpm which saves horsepower. Your best option is to locate a high capacity water pump for your car or locate a radiator with more passes than the stock radiator. A radiator shop should be able to give you advise on both. Remember, the water pump is belt driven along with several other items on the engine, so replacing the water pump with an electric one might be far more involved and expensive. Plus, the water pump has a seal that must work properly for the engine to retain its cooling fluid. There are aftermarket cooling fans that can be installed in front of or behind the radiator to provide additional air flow, the local auto parts store should have a listing or a company like Summit. Fans can be manually turned on or have a thermo swithch which turns the fan on at a certain temp. These are usually options with the electric fan kits. Good luck.

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