Q(D)X Small-size Submersible Pump Aluminium Pump Electric Pump

Q(D)X Small-size Submersible Pump Aluminium Pump Electric Pump System 1

Q(D)X Small-size Submersible Pump Aluminium Pump Electric Pump

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Loading Port:: Shanghai

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1 unit

Supply Capability:: 1000 unit/month

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Application:
Farm irrigation, cultivation, fountain, seawater, saltwater, hospitals, residence, municipal works, mining, traffic construction, etc.

Service Conditions:
1. Max. immersion depth:5m.
2. Max. liquid temperature: +60°C.
3. PH: 304(4-10),316(2-13).
4. Solids up to 0.2mm, volume ratio≤0.1%.

Product Introduction:
1. It is beautiful, small. A float oil sac in pump bottom will adjust downwards once pump temperature rises, prevent the pump from crackling, which makes the pump running safely and reliably.
2. VITON double mechanical seal in oil chamber, single mechanical seal in outer chamber, which avoid water into motor.
3. The motor uses F grade insulation, with cone-shaped bearing design, which prolongs the pump's service life.

Performance Data:

MODEL	RATED Q(m3/h)	RATED H(m)	RATED POWER (kW)	VOLTAGE (V)	OUTLET DIA. (mm)	G.W. (kg)	PACKAGE DIMENSION (cm3)
QY15-26-2.2S	15	26	2.2	380	50	40	60×27×27
QY25-17-2.2S	25	17	2.2	380	65	38.4	60×27×27
QY38-14-2.2S	38	14	2.2	380	80	39	65×25×27
QY65-7-2.2S	65	7	2.2	380	100	39	65×25×27
QY100-4.5-2.2S	100	4.5	2.2	380	150	38.4	65×25×27
QY15-36-3S	15	36	3	380	50	44.4	76×27×30
QY25-26-3S	25	26	3	380	65	44	76×27×30
QY40-16-3S	40	16	3	380	80	44.4	76×27×30
QY65-10-3S	65	10	3	380	100	46	76×27×30
QY160-5-3S	160	5	3	380	150	48.2	76×27×30
QY12.5-50-4S	12.5	50	4	380	50	48.2	70×30×30
QY40-21-4S	40	21	4	380	80	50	70×30×30
QY65-14-4S	65	14	4	380	100	50.2	70×30×30
QY100-9-4S	100	9	4	380	150	50.5	76×27×30
QY160-5.5-4S	160	5.5	4	380	200	54.4	76×27×30
QY25-40-5.5S	25	40	5.5	380	65
QY40-28-5.5S	40	28	5.5	380	80
QY65-18-5.5S	65	18	5.5	380	100
QY100-12-5.5S	100	12	5.5	380	150
QY160-8-5.5S	160	8	5.5	380	200
QY25-50-7.5S	25	50	7.5	380	65
QY40-38-7.5S	40	38	7.5	380	80
QY65-25-7.5S	65	25	7.5	380	100
QY100-15-7.5S	100	15	7.5	380	150
QY160-11-7.5S	160	11	7.5	380	200
QY6-115/5-5.5S	6	115	5.5	380/660	50/65
QY10-115/5-7.5S	10	115	7.5	380/660	50/65
QY20-75/5-7.5S	20	75	7.5	380/660	50/65
QY15-110/5-9.2S	15	110	9.2	380/660	50/65
QY20-110/5-11S	20	110	11	380/660	80/65
QY10-165/6-11S	10	165	11	380/660	50/65

Q: So my daughter's car is an 02 Accord manual with about 127k miles. It's making a squeaky noise which apparently is the belts. The dealer says they're too tight, but are in okay condition. They want to change the water pump and adjust the belts for $750. This seems a bit steep to me. Does the water pump need to be changed if it's working properly? How much should it cost to adjust the belts? I'm thinking she should find a more reasonable shop. What are your thoughts?: The water pump is driven by the timing belt. I do the water pump and timing belt with the pulleys and tensioner for around $600. If the drive belts are making noise try dusting some talcum or body powder on them. Don't use belt dressings, they never work.The timing belt should be replace around 90,000 miles so if that hasn't been done you should have it replaced or you will bend all the valves when the timing belt jumps or breaks. That's a 14 year old vehicle and the timing belt needs attention.

Q: ive been doing repair work on an old 86 jeep cherokee and when i let it idle there is a water leak, me and my dad came to the conclusion there was something wrong with the water pump. i cant find the manual and i dont even know what im looking for, so where would i find the water pump and how would i go about replacing it?: For 2.5L 4.0L Engines Some vehicles use a serpentine drive belt and have a reverse rotating water pump coupled with a viscous fan drive assembly. The components are identified by the words REVERSE stamped on the cover of the viscous drive and on the inner side of the fan. The word REV is also cast into the body of the water pump. 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Drain the cooling system. 3. Disconnect the hoses at the pump. 4. Remove the drive belts. 5. Remove the power steering pump bracket. 6. Remove the fan and shroud. 7. If equipped, remove the idler pulley to gain clearance for pump removal. 8. Unbolt and remove the pump. To install: 9. Clean the mating surfaces thoroughly. 10. Using a new gasket, install the pump and tighten the bolts to 13 ft. lbs. (18 Nm). 11. If removed, install the idler pulley. 12. Reconnect the hoses at the pump and install accessory drive belt. 13. Install the power steering pump bracket. Install the fan and shroud. 14. Adjust the belt tension and fill the cooling system to the correct level. 15. Operate the engine with the heater control valve in the HEAT position until the thermostat opens to purge air from the system. Check coolant level and fill as required.

Q: I have replaced the presure switch on my water pump but it switches on and off when it is building up presure instead on staying on until it gets to right presure.Any ideas of what is causing this?: RW is partially right you need to check the pressure switch which is the little black or greay box with the wires running in and out.It should say either 20/40 or 30/50 the pressure needs to be 2 pounds less than the lower number.Turn off the water and bleed the tank down then adjust he air with a tire pump and an air gauge

Q: I have a 73 dodge charger 400 cubic inch engine, The water pump broke (causing the fan to chew into the radiator) I replaced the water pump and fan (will be replacing the radiator this week) But the problem I am encountering is the belt for the water pump is lose, How do I go about tightening this?: On that year and engine, the fan belts that drive the water pump are adjusted by loosening the alternator bolts, and moving the alternator (you may need a pry bar) until the belts are tight. That motor had a fan clutch. If the fan clutch is bad, it will cause a vibration that will cause the wate pump to fail, and as you said Chew the radiator You may want to replace the fan clutch while you are working on the car. It is a lot cheaper than another water pump and radiator.

Q: is there a surface water pump that can pump water from a 1000 foot well?: If what you mean with surface water pumps are those pumps mounted on the ground to distinguish them from submersible pumps , yes there are surface pumps that can pump water from a 1000 ft well. These are the so called jet pumps or deep well pumps wherein part of the output water is returned back to the bottom of the well pipe through the space between the outer pipe casing and the inner pipe and passed through a venturi opening to create an upward water jet which will push more water upward.

Q: ok so i have a crack in my radiator a small crack but anyways yesterday it caused my car to over heat. i normally keep coolant in the car but it just got low and over heated pretty bad. so today the car is making a really loud annoying noise. coolant is also draining out of the bottom of the engine when the car is on. at a pretty good pace. it is coming out like right under the belt area so my friend said it is probably the water pump baring and he said it could have gotten damaged when it over heated. so i think these symptoms def point to the water pump. anyways i called a mechanic and he said that he had to change the belt to and he said he had to charge me $385. what you guys think. does he need to change the pump and the belt or just the pump? and is $385 a rip off or is that the going rate? thank you all for your knowledgeand information: Read the above PLUS realize that you MUST use ONLY genuine Toyote coolant in your car. Other coolants will cause further deterioration of your cooling components. I have seen Toyota cylinder heads that look like Swiss cheese from using the green stuff. Also, make sure that your mechanic uses only genuine Toyota replacement parts, and NOT rebuilt pump. Replace the tensioner and idler pulleys now, as well. The price is a rip off if cheaper parts are being used. If these are all factory parts, then this price is GREAT!!

Q: So, my husband and I bought a 1993 Chevrolet Corsica a couple of months ago. This weekend we took a trip that ended up being about 400 miles round trip. About 300 miles into our trip, the Check Engine light came on, but there was no noticable problem with the car, no overheating, no clanking or odd smells, the light went off about 2 minutes later. So we got it home, no problems whatsoever. My husband drove it to work this morning, and we were preparing to go to the store tonight in it, and we noticed a massive amount of radiator fluid under the car and the overflow bottle was empty. The leaking appears to be coming from the engine, and the antifreeze is running down one of the upper belts. Could this be a water pump problem? If so, what is the average cost to repair one (I know water pumps are relatively inexpensive, but we'll need to take it in to a shop). Does anyone have any idea? All replies will be greatly appreciated.: Sounds exactly like your water pump. I had the same problem with a cavalier. The pump shoud be around $30 to $50 or so. Cost to change? Probably around $100 to $150. Maybe more so don't quote me on that. Every shop has their own hourly rate.

Q: Could my problem be greater than a water pump or thermostat?: I would suggest having the computer codes read. If it shows that the Temp sensor is reading too high, then yes, the cause could be from your water pump. Have the Codes read to be sure.

Q: My well water pump runs constantly. The manual says it should kick off at 50 psi, it only gets to 48 (moves to 45 rather quickly, slow to 48). Water isn't an issue. Turned off all water to house, and still gets to 48, so I believe I can exclude leak somewhere in the house.One place I called said it could be a bit of grit in the jet pump when I called. This seems like it could cost big bucks. Could I suggest for the service man to check anything else?: I had the same problem with this in my home and I fixed it by simply adding air to my pressure tank. where your well line comes in there you should have a water softener and filters and a tank for holding pressure in the lines. shut off the water to the house and start filling the tank with air until you get to around 46 PSI once that's done turn the house water back on. It should take a lot longer for the pump to kick on now. It's pretty easy and I would definitely try to do it yourself first before calling a repair man out. It'll save you a few bucks!

Q: HelloI am building a small budget underground room. On top of a very waterproof and airtight (besides vents) building, and running a dehumidifer inside, I would like to install a pump underneatth the foundation to suck out water from the soil surronding the building but I'm not sure what kind of pump would be best?Also how would b e the best way to set this up?: What you want is called a sump pump. Most have a system built into them that is triggered by rising water. The idea is to have a hole beneath that allows the inevitable water that will collect a place to go, then when a certain amount gets in the hole, the sump pump comes on and pumps it out to wherever you have the hose or pipes ran to. Being underground, good luck keeping the humidity level down. It won't be easy, and much depends on where your natural water table is, and what it is during rains. Someone in your area might know all that, I don't.

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