Swimming Pool Water Pump

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Swimming Pool Water Pump

The swimming pool water pump is specially developed according to the operational features of the swimming pools both domestic and abroad and suitable to clean and remove dirts to keep the water in a good quility and to eliminate the in convenience to change the water often.

The pump is equipped with a spicial filtering system, which is fully mounted on a hand truck, where the process from sucking water to becoming standard water quility by filtering is finished.

Pump body:ABS

Impeller:ABS

Motor:Closed, Externally ventilated

Insulation class:B(Class F if required)

Protection class: IP44/IP55

Duty:Continuously rated

Mechanical seal:Φ12 ,Φ19ceramic steatite/graphite

Shaft:Stainless steel AISI 420

The normal power standard is 220v,50HZ,single phase

Three phase 220v/380v, 50HZ, 220V/460V, 60HZ

Single phase 230V, 240V, 127V,110V,115V/ 60HZ

Swimming Pool Water Pump

Q: My water pump is losing pressure slowly even though no water is being used. Your help is appreciated. Thank you.: If the motor sounds louder than normal. Youll need to check the impeller in the pump. Make sure the shaft seal on the pump is not leaking. You either have a leak, restriction in the system or a bad impeller or failing pump motor.

Q: I noticed my car was quot;in the redand was about to overheat as i was driving, so at first I thought maybe i needed more coolant. I turned off my car and heard a fan noise under my engine for like a minute then it stopped. I checked the radiator and it was empty (no coolant) so i put water in there to get to the store to buy more coolant. By the time i bought some the water was already gone (this was only like 10 min) so I put the coolant in drove home again i noticed i was overheating, i checked again and all the coolant had leaked out too..it was all gone, that QUICK! So i asked a couple of men about it, and they say it sounds like it could be a hose or either a water pump. I don't know which it is, i can't drive it anywhere b/c it keeps overheating and i don't want to get it towed for $75 just to get a new hose. So is there a way i could tell what the problem is? Thanks!: fill it , start it , watch it, see where its leaking, if you still can see it , see a mechanic, but dont over heat it , you could damage the engine

Q: The truck is a 1982 Ford pickup F100. We didn't realize it was an F100 at the time and we put the F150 water pump on it. The water pump fits perfectly, but is this going to mess up the engine at all?: No it will not hurt the motor as long as the pulley for the belt lines up with the crankshaft pulley like the original one did. If they don't line up you will start chewing through belts

Q: Having a hard time taking out the water pump on my 2004 Grand Am. it's been leaking anti-freeze for some time and finally had the time to fix it. Didn't know it will be so difficult to take out. So hopefully it won't be so difficult to put back up.: You did not say if you have a 4 cylinder or a 6 cylinder. The 6 is really easy so I will assume you have a 4.If equipped with an automatic transmission, remove the exhaust manifold. Refer to Exhaust Manifold Removal in Engine Mechanical - 2.2L (L61). Drain the cooling system. Refer to Cooling System Draining and Filling . Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information. Remove the right front tire and wheel. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels. Remove the front fender liner. Refer to Front Fender Liner Replacement in Body Front End. Remove the access plate on the water pump sprocket from the timing cover. Install J 43651 to the water pump sprocket. Use the access plate bolts to secure J 43651 to the engine front cover. Remove the bolts that secure the sprocket to the water pump. Remove the bolt (1) that secures the engine block to the water pump. Remove the bolt (2) that secures the engine front cover to the water pump. Remove the feed pipe that joins the thermostat housing to the water pump. Remove the 2 bolts that secure the water pump to the engine block. Remove the water pump.

Q: I am looking for a small water pump that I can turn on and off using a computer, preferably via USB. If someone could please post a link or a method of me doing this myself, I will be very appreciative.: find the output positive and negative on the usb cable attach these to a solenoid or a relay. then attach the source that will power the pump to the pump, using the solenoid/relays contact pins as you would a switch. done. now just write a program on your CPU to control the usb output. for a diagram, email me at Ben@ Comcast

Q: Multi storey residential buildings also need to set up pressurized water pump room, direct water supply can not be?: The tap water supply pressure is enough, so there is no need to pressurize.

Q: Does the pump accessories have a shelf life?: Yes, 3-6 months for wearing parts, 12 months for general accessories, 10 years for shell type. Specific depends on whether the materials and user use conditions are bad to decide.

Q: I'm looking to buy a used 2001 Protege. The car is nearing 75000mi, but the owner has not changed the timing belt or the water pump. I found out that it is recommended to change the timing belt at 60000mi, but couldn't find anything on the water pump. Realistically, when would I need to replace these, and any idea how much it would cost?Thanks!: That could have either the 1.6 liter or 2.0 liter engine. My information shows that if you have the 1.6 liter, at least you don't have to worry about bending valves against pistons if the belt breaks -- you'll just be stuck out on the road until you can get it towed and fixed. Not so with the 2.0 which is an interference engine. So if you DO have the 2.0, pay attention -- you don't want an expensive breakdown! You're on borrowed time at 75K. For both engines, Mazda recommends that you replace the timing belt every 60K miles. Gates (a major replacement supplier) seems to think these belts will go 105K. Since it's a factory belt, stick with 60K. As for the water pump, it's often one of those while you're already in there sort of things when you're doing a timing belt. 60K makes it a tougher call, especially with the better quality of water pump bearings and seals. If your interval were 80K ~ 100K as is true on some cars, I'd say go for it without blinking. As cheap as it'll be (it's really just the price of the pump), and it was my set of wheels, I'd do it anyway, even at 60K, if it needed to be pulled to do the belt.

Q: do I need to replace it again ? How hard is it to change the water pump? Any Idea where on the internet I can download a free maintenance manual or replacement instructions ?: I would turn the crankshaft with the belt on until the timing marks line up, then remove the belt, do the work, then put it back together... if you take it apart with the timing marks out of alignment, then it will be more difficult to put back. just a tip.

Q: I have a 2000 chevy impala with 85K on it. I have heard/a weird rattle noise from under the hood for some time now. I once asked about it on here and got suggestions regarding front end problems. I had that checked out and the front end is good. I still have the rattle noise along with a high pitched, but not very loud, squeeling noise when I accelerate. I am leaking coolant and it seems to be coming from near one of the belts. Is this a bad water pump? If so how expensive of a fix is it and how involved of a repair is it?: It sounds like a water pump or maybe a loose connection. It is probably time for a water pump if it hasn't been replaced yet. Parts will run under $60 and it probably involves an hour of labor. The Impala is a big car, it shouldn't be hard to get to and remove. Taking it to a shop will run under $100-$150 for everything.

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