CDL Stainless Steel Vertical Multistage Centrifugal Pumps
- Ref Price:
-
$150.00 - 4,500.00
/ unit
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT or LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 unit
- Supply Capability:
- 3000 unit/month
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1. Performance of CDL Stainless Steel Vertical Multistage Centrifugal Pumps
Flow Range:1-200m3/h
Head Range:11-200m
Power Range:0.37-110KW
Temperature:-20ºC-120ºC
Material:Stainless Steel 304,316
Work Pressure:<1.6mpa< span="">
2. Introduction of CDL Stainless Steel Vertical Multistage Centrifugal PumpsNon self-priming type vertical multistage centrifugal pump, the motor is directly connected with the pump through shaft couplings, impeller guide vane is made of stamping stainless steel plate or precision casting stainless steel, smooth surface , hydraulic flow loss is small, and easily for cleaning, is very favorable for conveying pure medium. Pump inlet and outlet in a straight line(can be equipped with IEC or NEMA motor).
3. Operating Conditions of CDL Stainless Steel Vertical Multistage Centrifugal Pumps
Thin, clean, non inflammable and explosive liquid not containing solids or fiber.
The liquid temperature: normal temperature type - 15 ºC to 70 ºC hot water type to + 120 ºC
Environmental temperature: highest + 40 ºC
Height: highest 1000m
4. Motor Introduction of CDL Stainless Steel Vertical Multistage Centrifugal Pumps
Motor is fully enclosed, air-cooled type 2 pole standard motors.
Protection grade: IP55
Insulation grade: F
Standard voltage: 1Ph 220-230/240V
3Ph 200-220/346-380V
3Ph 220-240/380-415V
3Ph 380-415V
5. Typical Applications of CDL Stainless Steel Vertical Multistage Centrifugal Pumps
Water supply: water filtration and conveying, waterworks water supply, pipe pressurization, high-rise building pressurization.
Industrial pressurization: process water system, cleaning system, high pressure flushing system, fire control system.
Industrial liquid transportation: cooling and air conditioning system, the boiler feed water and condensation system, machine tool accessory, acid and alkali.
Water treatment: ultrafiltration system, reverse osmosis system, distillation system, separator.
Irrigation: farm irrigation, sprinkler, drip.
6. FAQ
1> Can I get trained on CNBM products?
Yes, we provide training courses in our factory (products, general and specific pump technology, hydraulics, and practical applications). Please consult your sales manager or get in touch with our headquarters for more information.
2> Are your pumps cheaper than those of your competitors?
CNBM aims to give its customers the highest standards of quality and service and delivery times, all at a reasonable price.
3> How long is your warranty?
Unless otherwise expressly authorized in writing, by specifying a longer period or different conditions, CNBM states that, for a period of twelve (12) months from delivery date, all Products supplied are free from defects in materials and workmanship, and conform to the applicable specifications. Either the delivery documentation or the invoice must be provided to prove delivery date. In absence of such documents, the production date appearing on the product label may suffice.
- Q: 2 different pulleys are in the way of the 2 remaining long bolts. at each end of the pump. tensioner did not need to be moved as belt is already off. Motor mount is 1/2 way removed and motor has dropped slightly gt; Am reading a jack must be placed under motor with wood via oil pan ( am hoping no other damage was done) Am told there is a certain device available to remove the pulleys? ... -Would appreciate anyone's info and advice on the remaining steps to this procedure on this make and model engine. as I have come into it obviously with it having begun the wrong way!! Thanks!!
- to get the water pump out you need to remove the water pump pulley first it has four 10 mm bolts (I have seem them with 8 mm bolt with a large shoulder on them too ) you can break the bolts loose one of 2 ways 1) put a long screwdriver between the two of the bolt to hold the pulley in place while u break one loose then spin the pulley around rinse and repeat once there all loose u can turn them out by hand and pull off the pulley some time u have to give the pully a little tap to come off you shouldn't need to take off the motor mount unless u plan on chaging the serpintine belt ? be sure once you get the pump off you clean the block side of the surface really good with a scraper make sure u get all the old gasket off the block side so it will seal right when u install the new pump I also recommend a tube of ultra black rtv sealant and only black I have used blue silicone before on many occasion and it has failed me I only use black rtv plus it makes it a lot easier if you have to replace the pump in the future as it come off a little easyier hope this helps a little good luck may the car gods be with you also I would recommend doing a back flush with warm or hot water and using the old school green antifreeze either full or 50/50 mix Dexcool orange has a very well know issue of eating gaskets and putting engine into a vapor lock very costly to fix
- Q: i need the location of the water pump or for the thermostat thank you
- The water pump is timing belt driven and is under the plastic timing cover on passenger side. These water pumps have a history of breaking, due to the fact they have a plastic impeller and it shears off the shaft, which causes the engine to overheat. First you want to remove the thermostat and then check the water pump. Follow the lower radiator hose to where it connects to the engine. That flange is where the thermostat is at. After you remove the thermostat you can shine a light in the hole and put your finger in there, if the impellar of the water pump moves, it needs to be replaced. If it does, then you might as well replace the timing belt and tensioner, seeing how you have to remove it to get the water pump off.
- Q: Fire pump control cabinet installation distance, ground height should be how much?
- We know that the fire pump control cabinet has the distinction of floor and wall mounted, wall mounted control cabinet installation height generally is determined by the employer departments, without any special labeling, proposed control cabinet frame under the 120cm from the ground, this is the installation height compared to the commonly used, can be used for your reference.
- Q: I think the water pump is going out in my truck can I still drive it short distance if I put water in it first?
- Just make sure ur truck dont run hot. What I would/have done is put water in it then while u drive if the temp starts goin up pull over.
- Q: We usually wait 4 - 5 minutes for hot water in our master bath. I've been looking into ricirculation pump systems. This would have to be a retro-fit system since some of the lines run through concrete slab making adding a return loop on the line non-feasible. I have found some people comment on simply using a by-pass valve system without a pump (ie. Hot Water Lobster). We do have hard water which I've also read that can present a problem with pumps dieing quite quickly. While I'd like it, I don't need 1 second hot water, but I can't stand wasting gallons waiting for 4-5 minutes. A reasonable 15-30 second wait would be a huge improvement. Has anyone had reasonable success with the bypass valve without the pump or should I plan on getting the pump too? Thanks in advance!
- Without a basement, you're only moving water from the first to second floor? I'm guessing it's a large home and the baths are somewhat remote from the water heater. You should consider the pump, but perhaps a second water heater. Do you have a closet you could put a small electric unit in? I don't think that a 4-5 gallon under counter unit will do it. Good luck.
- Q: My family has a vacation home on the bay side of a small island off the coast of Texas. The house has a water well and uses an electric pump housed in a pump house underneath the structure, which is up on stilts. The house is infrequently used and with the seaside conditions the pump has corroded and will not start automatically. What do I need to do to clean it up so it will function? I do not believe that the motor is damaged.
- the problem with the pump not running will be the motor only.....most likely the motor rotor has rusted to the winding core of the motor ....soak it down with wd40 on the inside ...should be vent holes to spray wd40 in...try to find some way to turn rotor ....on some pumps there is a screwdriver slot on the end of the motor...if it still wont run take it to shop
- Q: I want to build a portable, working steam room display for trade shows. I need to feed water from a storage tank to a steam generator when it's called for. How can I do this? Is there a type of water pump that would work for this?
- I would buy a little aquarium filter pump to feed the steam system.You can regulate it with a little valve in the tubing and use any kind of tub as a reservoir for the water depending on the amount you need to create the steam.
- Q: I will be replacing my timing belt soon. The dealer is suggesting that I also replace the water pump. Is that really necessary? When do water pumps normally go out?
- The only reason they say that is because 90% of the labor to replace a water pump is already done by removing the timing belt. So if you decline and the pump goes out, you'll pay all that labor all over again. If you change your coolant when due and use the right coolant (not some universal coolant), then no, pumps don't usually go bad. But it's all up to you and your level of risk taking. Most people get talking into it because the dollar risk is so high compared to the cost of a pump.
- Q: my water is frozen from pump to faucets,do i thaw from pump to faucet ,or faucet to pump?
- open faucet nearest pump, use hair dryer on line from faucet to pump. Of course you need better insulation, but you can leave a faucet drip to help keep the line from freezing up until then.
- Q: Okay, the fan has the clutch unit on the front with the large nut attaching it to the water pump. Then 4 screws attach the pulley to the water pump as well. What's the best way to immobilize pulley/pump so I can get the fan blade clutch nut unscrewed? Can't hold onto the fan or clutch unit since it simply spins. Can't realy seem to hold onto the pulley either as it prefers to spin? Any suggested best ways?
- First remember this tighten is loosen and loosen it tighten with the big nut on the fan clutch. And there is a tool you can buy (BMP design and Bavarian autosport have them) but I never bought one because I only could have used it once, and I try to keep my tool box as empty as I can. All this with the belt on..Get the biggest screwdriver you have and a heavy hammer. Now put the screwdriver on the tighten side one of the flat sides edge. Take hammer and give it a big wack. As long as the last guy put the fan clutch on right it should take no more than 2 tries to loosen it. Once its loose just spin it off by the fan blades and pull it out. I only once had to use a sawsall (only time I could have used the tool)on both the water pump and fan clutch to do a water pump job and after inspection I found some moron used lock tight. When you reinstall just spin it on and that's it no need to tighten.. I like to put antiseize on the bolt threads so I know the next time I have to remove the fan it will come off like buttahr...
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CDL Stainless Steel Vertical Multistage Centrifugal Pumps
- Ref Price:
-
$150.00 - 4,500.00
/ unit
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT or LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 unit
- Supply Capability:
- 3000 unit/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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