S SH Double Suction High Flow Rate Centrifugal Water Pump

S SH Double Suction High Flow Rate Centrifugal Water Pump System 1

S SH Double Suction High Flow Rate Centrifugal Water Pump

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Loading Port:: Shanghai

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1 unit

Supply Capability:: 100 unit/month

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Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Details:	Standard plywood case or carton for each double suction high flow rate centrifugal water pump
Delivery Detail:	7 days from receiving payment (according to your order quantity)

Specifications

high flow rate centrifugal water pump

1. single stage and double suction

2. horizontal split case pump

3. saving power

Summarize

High flow rate centrifugal water pump is single stage double suction split casing pump with high capacity and pressure, which can transmit clean water or similar liquids(Oil).

1. single stage &double suction 2. horizontal split case pump 3. power saving 4. big flow (72~3170m3/h), head: 10~125m, Size: 100~800mm

Application(Once using check valve, the pump can be self-priming )

Factory, mine, water supply, power station, irrigation, hydraulic engineering and so on.

But temperature can not more than 80 °C

Q: removed my water pump to replace it. i have the fan and clutch assembly still attached...i have no idea how to remove these...the fan clutch has bolts that hold the fan to it...and i did remove those but im just not sure how to separate this assembly...my water pump pulley has 4 holes...and no bolts so i presume it's pressed on...and there looks to be a very large nut between the pulley and the fan/clutch assembly...any help would be appreciated on this...i'd much rather go to the parts store w/ the old pump instead of guessing.....thnx in advance...: Corrosion is now holding everything to the pump. Use a screwdriver to help separate them. Here is a link compliments of Auto Zone showing how to remove the water pump. You will note in the picture that the pump has a shaft sticking out of the front. That is holding the clutch and fan on. Earlier I gave you the wrong link. This is the correct one for the V6. The others were for the V8s They mention to remove the fan before removing the water pump. The fan should be bolted to the clutch in the manner you say. If you grasp the shaft on the pump, the fan and clutch should rotate freely. If you pulled the 4 bolts off the pulley, the fan and clutch assembly should come off. The pulley should then fall free. Is anyone else helping you with this and they already took the bolts out? If not you must have some alternate water pump that Chrysler failed to tell everyone about. Is the large nut against the pulley or the fan clutch? I wish we could talk on the phone. Get a mallet. Put the pump on a clean surface and use the mallet to tap the pulley on one side then the other. Hopefully this will help work this off. Once you get this off, you will see it should look like the pictures I sent to you. I just sent you another link that has 3 different ways they have the fan mounted to the water pump. Yes, there is a large nut holding the clutch on. It says it is a right handed nut so be careful taking it off.

Q: I think my water pump is going bad but figure id ask everyone to see what they thought. I leak coolant like the first 20 min i drive my truck and then it will seal itself up for the next day or two then start leaking again. It is getting leaked all over the belt and the fan is spraying it all around so you cant tell where exactly its coming from but i checked all the hoses and they are good and im pretty sure its not the radiator. Also, when it is leaking there is a loud whining noise when my trucks on and i heard that can be from the pump too.: LOOK okorder on internet! WHAT SIZE IS ENGEIN HERE! FOur, five, six, eight yidner from WHAT COMPANY! NOBODY can answer thsi question for you without MORE DETAILS! THANX!

Q: We're doing some droplet impact experiments and are creating the flow of water to our droplet generators by elevating our source of water. Unfortunately as the water depletes the pressure changes. We need to siphon off the water from our lower basin where the water collects and pump it back up to the source (around 6-8 feet up). What kind of pump do I need for this?: I would think a pump of the type used for garden fountains and ponds would work. They some in sizes many of which are rated in gallons per hour rather that gpm. You can get the any many home improvement centers as well as on line.

Q: If I were to go to a shop, how much would it cost to replace my water pump? It's a 4.0 6 cyl engine.: $70-$150 +cost of pump. Most shops have certain maintenance hours for certain jobs. Call around for exact pricing. Honestly, if you have a sockets (metric) and wrenches you can do it yourself in about an hour or two, maybe less. You don't have to mechanically inclind to replace the water pump on the 97 Wrangler. If you do it, I do recommend buying a Haynes/Chilton's book if you don't really have a clue. If you need to buy the tools, book, pump (gasket should come with it), water pump RTV, and coolant. That will still be a lot cheaper than paying somebody. Plus, you will get the joy of doing it yourself. Also, you could put the savings into a high-flow pump, vice original equipment.

Q: Do it yourself steps: If you're go to attempt this buy a manual. You have take apart the entire front of the engine. Remove the timing belt, just to get to the water pump. The timing belt runs the water pump. It's not a job for someone who has to ask how to do this on answers. Get a professional mechanic. This is from a 35 yr vet. of the garage.

Q: So, my husband and I bought a 1993 Chevrolet Corsica a couple of months ago. This weekend we took a trip that ended up being about 400 miles round trip. About 300 miles into our trip, the Check Engine light came on, but there was no noticable problem with the car, no overheating, no clanking or odd smells, the light went off about 2 minutes later. So we got it home, no problems whatsoever. My husband drove it to work this morning, and we were preparing to go to the store tonight in it, and we noticed a massive amount of radiator fluid under the car and the overflow bottle was empty. The leaking appears to be coming from the engine, and the antifreeze is running down one of the upper belts. Could this be a water pump problem? If so, what is the average cost to repair one (I know water pumps are relatively inexpensive, but we'll need to take it in to a shop). Does anyone have any idea? All replies will be greatly appreciated.: Check engine is probably indicating an emissions issue but it could have been overheating slightly. A leak at the top centre on the front of the engine (engine sideways so front is passenger side) is an indication of a failing water pump. What happens is the bushing wears and the seal can allow coolant past. This is a built in safety feature so you get fair warning of an impending disaster. It takes about 45 minutes but the shop will go by the book and charge 1 to 1.5 hours. They will also charge full retail on the water pump I'm not slamming repair facilities they have to charge these amounts or they just don't make money. You should have them replace the serpentine belt while they are at it. Expect to pay $250 to $350 including shop supplies like engine coolant and LocTite.

Q: Is there a way to test and see if it is the water pump that causes the car heater to blow hot air one time and then, next time it blows cold air? We flushed the heater core and did other tests, so we do not believe it is the heater core. We left the radiator cap off and ran the car (ford thunderbird..'94) for 20 minutes and watched the antifreeze level come up, but doesn't go down, not circulating. We cannot afford to go to another garage. None of them seem to know what to do anywyas and we keep paying people to fix the heater and it is not fixed. We have put two new thremostats in car, too, figuring that maybe the first one may have been faulty, but should we try that again?: Remove the thermostat totally from the car and then start it with the radiator cap removed.Verify that there are no vacume controlled valves in the hoses or intake manifold.If the water isn`t moving in the radiator,the impellers are broke in the water pump most likely shaft is broken.Dumb question here(is the pump belt driven?On the front of the engine or internal pump?)

Q: Was I supposed to lube the water pump or what. I really don't know what it could be making the noise now. But it goes away after about 5-25 seconds of running, what could it be?: If your car is a Chrysler product it is most likely the bearings failing in the idler pulley on the belt tensioning arm. I have replaced this after failure on 2 dodge mini vans. Don't wait too long, if it fails completely the belt will be ruined and leave you stranded.

Q: First I need to take off the belt, remove power steering pump, remove water pump bolts (the bolts are various length), remove water pump pulley (from old pump), install pulley on new pump, install new pump (with gasket and bolts in the right holes), install power steering pump, install belt. Is this the correct order? Can somebody throw any tips at me (somebody who has done it on this vehicle). It's a 2001 WJ with a 4L.: The centrifugal pump is the most popular water pump in mining industry, it’s could be driven by the electric motor or by diesel engine. This water pump consist shell, impeller, and flange. It gets the advantages of simple structure, easy for maintenance, with high capacity and high lift meter. Application: The centrifugal pump is widely used in mining, coal, metallurgy, building material industry, and other industries which need transfer water or other liquid.

Q: Is this a symptom of a bigger problem or do I just need to replace the water pump?: Your water pump may have a bad seal or gasket, would be best to replace water pump.

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