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Water Pump

Water Pump

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Q:Could my problem be greater than a water pump or thermostat?
Well first of all thermostates don't make leaks, -- unless they don't open, in which case boiling makes water run out! And of course it could be waterpump, it could also be radiator hoses, and radiator itself, as well as heater hoses, and heater core! In extreme case it could even be head gasket going bad! (But defiantely it will be under the hood!) You just have to check things out an see where it is coming from! Waterpump has a weep hole underneath main housing, -- if it is dripping from there,- the seal in WP is bad. But rest of things should be easy to see if you look carefully! If you have very much water leaking get it fixed quickly, and keep it full, and watch temperature carefully, if it starts overheating shut down engine quickly! If you drive overheated you WILL blow head gasket, and if going even further- too hot, it will expire engine! This is very expensive!
Q:Could someone tell me the procedure for removing & installing a water pump on 97 buick skylark 3.1L 3100 SFI?
wow.. lol, did ya look that up in a book. very precise..lol, but kinda correct.. being i work for gm and all..lol... simple hand tool will do it.. listen to the guy who copies it from a book.....loll..lol
Q:I have 2000 ford ranger v6 3.0 I replaced the water pump ten months ago and all of a sudden it's running hot it only runs hot when I stop for a second at a red light or stop sign. I changed the radiator today but still is running hot. The top radiato hose going to the thermostat housing is building a lot of pressure and the water is bubbling in the reservoir what could be wrong? And I took the thermostat out last week
This Site Might Help You. RE: I have 2000 ford ranger v6 3.0 I replaced the water pump ten months ago and all of a sudden it's running hot? I have 2000 ford ranger v6 3.0 I replaced the water pump ten months ago and all of a sudden it's running hot it only runs hot when I stop for a second at a red light or stop sign. I changed the radiator today but still is running hot. The top radiato hose going to the thermostat housing is...
Q:I just had my water pump replaced and a coolant flush. 35 miles later, my MAL light came on and my mechanic said my thermostat needs replacement. Should this have been done with the water pump work, or could the work have caused the thermostat problem?
Anytime I replace a water pump, intake gasket, or anything else where the coolant needs removal, I always suggest to my customers that we change the thermostat as well. Many times I just change it anyway. I tell the customers, but really don't offer an option! (of course if they say don't I will honor that, but no one has ever said that!) It is possible that during a flush some trash/scale got into the thermostat causing improper operation. With the thermostat removed, there is no restriction in the cooling system making flushing easier and more thorough. Now to answer your question, It is my opinion he SHOULD HAVE. That is not only an up-sell (even though I hate creating extra work) it is just an added value to the customer. He should also check belts and hoses, changing them (via customer approval) if needed. As a mechanic, the last thing I want is a comeback such as yours was because I at the very least didn't suggest a proper service!
Q:Hi I really need a USB water pump (small). I have found one in China but they need payment in a different currency so its proving difficult. I would much prefer a US/EUROPE seller. Cheers.PSgt; If I had to pay to get the power supply changed from wire to USB then I could if anyone knows who could do this.
The USB output has a 5V power supply. USB2 delivers up to 500mA and later versions may be 900mA. USB hubs start off with less than this (100mA) but change as they are initialised. Some dedicated USB charging ports supply up to 1.8A. There are some USB power cables that take the output from 2 ports in a sort of Y harness (first link for example). The result of all this is that only a very small pump would run from most USB ports. I did find 2 rated at 5W and 8W but the voltage was not shown. I suspect they were mains operation, meant for large water bottles. If they were 5V they would use 1A and 1.6A respectively, so only run from special USB charge points or double cables, and only in some cases anyway. I assume you want to run from a Laptop/Notebook battery for convenience. The point is that even if the USB port can supply the correct voltage and current the battery would be emptied very quickly. It is probably cheaper to get a suitable pump, then power it from a separate and more suitable rechargeable battery or mains adaptor (wall wart), whatever it takes, taking into account how long it should run with a single charge. This is about the battery voltage and the capacity in ampere hours - the number of hours it can supply a given current. D size rechargeable (Ni-MH) would run a 6V x 6W motor using 1A for about 6 hours. C size cells are half that, and AA cells about half again. It takes 4 cells to get 5V. Get them as a pack though or at least with a battery holder, as they cannot be soldered. Then you need a proper charger. Recent laptop/notebook batteries are lithium ion types, 10.8V and 4.8Ah, so deliver 1A @10.8V for 4h more or less. Other types worth considering are for cordless drills.
Q:Assuming that my water pump standard flow is 20m3/h, tolerance value requirements is + 8%, then is not traffic 22m3/h is not qualified?
Tolerance coefficient is due in the manufacturing process, will, so each pump products are possible shapes and sizes do not conform to the pattern of the situation, and ensure the test results in the value (operating point) when compared, should be allowed to have a certain tolerance. It should be noted that these tolerances are only relevant to the actual pump and do not involve test conditions and measurement uncertainties.If the pump at a certain working point (the same lift) standard (Design) flow of 20m3/h, the actual flow of 22m3/h, indicating that the pump in the design process has unreasonable place, resulting in waste of power. Deviations from the manufacturing process usually have no positive deviation.
Q:In the design specifications, for example, the water pump requirement is two. What does that mean? Can 3 pumps be opened at once?
May not。1, the system is designed according to 2+1, 1 standby, only redundant backup of important equipment, not included in the running load.2, higher power distribution only provides 2 (maximum operating conditions) equipment rated operating power capacity (slightly margin, but limited).3, a single 160KW motor rated current is about 300A, 185 cable can only be used for the 1 pumps (with 2 units, and has overload) 630A circuit breaker is the frame level, if the current setting value is 630, it should be the main power switch (single pump with 400A circuit breaker, setting a value of 315 or 350A).4, if the 630A as the main switch to provide 2 pump power, has been close to full load (third pumps can not be added).5, water pipeline system, although not what caused the problem, but the water flow rate, flow rate of 2 pump operation should be in the ideal range, adding third pumps (the premise is to ensure the power supply) will make the water flow velocity is too large, in non ideal conditions.Conclusion: this method is inadvisable. If necessary, modify the original system, change to 3+1 mode, and change the line and circuit.
Q:I have a 1994 Plymoth Grand voyager and it is loosing anti freeze it was a little leak now I can't see it leaking but it is empty could it be the water pump? It does get hot now. what other things happen when your water pump is going out does the heater not get hot anymore?
particular !! The water pump actual circulates the coolant/anti-freeze for the duration of the engine. A leak is a commonl occurance. If I had a dime for each waterpump I replaced that each and absolutely everyone started leaking coolant i would not could artwork back !! additionally, the timing belt is relatively of a good sized interest in case you're actually not a mechanic or in no way carried out it in the past. Its not in basic terms a do away with and replace interest. The crankshaft and camshafts could be placed (timed) suitable while changing the belt so as that the engine runs wisely and you do not reason any substantial injury. i could propose which you're taking it right into a professional which you believe and ask for him/her to take a glance and make a suggestion.
Q:The water pump on my 1997 corolla has been leaking, I want to replace it by myself. I did some research online, and get the diagram of the engine structure. It seems to me it is not very hard to do, but who knows, it might end up being a very tricky job. Did anyone replace the water pump on 97 corolla before? How difficult was it? Two things I actually worry: 1. It might be hard to unbolt the water pump pulley, because there is little room insert a wrench. 2. Also, because of the lack of room, it would be also hard to unbolt the timing belt cover (the 2nd/middle cover). A shop gave the quote of $440 to replace the water pump, and I think I should be able to do it myself.
it is the water pump. you will be bettor off letting the shop put it on because if you don't have the right tools DO NOT TRY TO DO YOURSELF. the water pump is right in front fan motor all that has to come off to get to the pump.
Q:I have a new water pump with its new gasket to be installed tomorrow. Do I still need to apply a gasket sealer (blue RTV silicone) on the gasket itself? If I do, do I need to apply it on both sides of the gasket? Thank you.
that completely depends on the year/make and model, and type of gasket that it uses.

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