semi-metallic/ceramic auto brake pads D1601 with high quality from china

semi-metallic/ceramic auto brake pads D1601 with high quality from china

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Loading Port:: Qingdao

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 100 set

Supply Capability:: 300000 set/month

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Specifications

1.High quality brake pad featuring with stable friction coefficient,none noise,none-asbestos,none-dust,long using life,reasonable wearing rate.

2.Surface finished: paint, powder coat; electronic paint
3.No noise,long life .
4 Reasonable price,good quality ,prompt delivery
5.Be able to pass the E-mark authentication.
6. Complete models for different vehicles(passenger cars,lgiht truck,heavy truck,bus)
7.Professional Perfomance Auto parts supplier ,Manufacture according to customer's requirment.

9.Strong material of stable fiction coefficient under a wide range of temperatures
10. Original: CHINA

semi-metallic/ceramic auto brake pads D1601 with high quality from china

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1. Delivery for Sample: 3-15 Days.

2. Delivery time: 10-30 Working Days/ Depend on Order Quantity.
3. Shipment: by Sea, by Air or Express.
4. Sales Service: Any information from you will be responded within 24 hours.
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Tracking your goods after shipping until you received them satisfyingly!When you got the

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the solve way for you.

Q: Yesterday i drove my truck for the first time in six weeks and completley lost my braking ability. The pedal went all the way to the floor and my truck hardly even slowed down as I was going 35. I hit the parking brake and nothing happened either. I coasted to a stop on the shoulder and saw that my ABS light was on. I saw that my brake fluid was well below the add line so i filled it back up. After pressing the brakes again there was almost no difference and the fluid level dropped down again. I eventually realized that if i drove under 10 mph i could stop the truck but i had to depress the pedal all the way down and it would very slowly come to a stop. Im sure i have a leak but to my understanding there are two units controlled by the master cylinder to prevent near total brake loss if you have a leak. Does anyone have any idea where it could be coming from that would render the brakes usless over 10mph? Thanks: Sounds like you might have air in your lines. Also, you may have a vacuum line disconnected from your brake system. Check the vacuum lines first, if they are good then I'd suggest bleeding your brakes.

Q: So, I‘m trying to sell my 97 Honda civic hatchback. I had someone look at it today and he pointed out to me that the brake fluid was half full. It‘s my understanding that the fluid doesn‘t evaporate. The last time it was all looked at was Nov 08 brakes where changed and the fluid was topped up as far as I know. I also heard that the fluid will go down when you need to replace the brakes. I haven‘t seen any leakage. Also when I had the brakes changed Nov 08 the back wheel brake on the drivers side has always squeaked for the first lil bit of driving it, then it goes away. I asked a mech friend of mine and he said that the garage prob put that brake on to close to the wheel. I‘m so confused because I haven‘t noticed a difference in the brakes performance. Anyone have any ideas for me? I‘ll include more info if asked. thanks a lot!: I suspect worn out brake pads and shoes. its been 2 years! there is different ways to tell if there is a leak. Rear 1. remove tires and brake drums. look at where the brake cylinder holds the brake shoes(12 o clock) if it looks damp or wet that is the problem if not, spray clean everything there with water. let it dry once it looks clean go for a drive. remove tire and drums again if you see fluid around the brake cylinder, then obviously there is a leak, Front remove front tires and remove brake caliper bracket look at the center of brake caliper, there is a rubber seal there and a metal piece(brake piston) in the center if the rubber piece around the piston is wet then its bad. you can always visit a recommended shop and have them do a free brake inspection. if the problem is just worn out brakes you can either reduce the price of the car a bit or have then serviced and increase the price a bit as well. Brake Master Cylinder and Brake Booster visual inspection the BMC is the one where you add the brake fluid. the Brake Booster is the round black thing behind it. look where the BMC meets the BB( 6 o clock) if that area is wet the BMC is defective. if you look inside the car towards the BB there is a rod that is pushed inside the BB by the brake pedal if that area is wet as well the MBC is defective. gl

Q: I want to completely flush the brake fluid in my 2002 Acura RSX Type S. It has ABS and I was wondering if there are any special procedures to doing this. The service manual only talks about bleeding the brakes, not about flushing the entire system. I know how to flush a regular brake system, but I wasn't sure if I was going to need to do anything extra since the car has ABS. Thanks in advance.: no special procedures needed, pull the old fluid out of the brake resevior, top with clean and use a vaccume bleeder and go around to all four bleeders and open untill fluid runs clean making sure caliper pistons are retracted.make sure reseviour stays full with clean brake fluid so you dont pull air into system. make sure you pump the brake pedal, since the caliper pistons will be retracted.this procedure should take 2 smaller sized brake fluid containers.I always close bleeder valve before letting vaccume off to make sure no air gets sucked back up into caliper, you can also gravity bleed just takes longer.

Q: I dont think it is the brakes or rotors causing the problem after reading up. Its like u almost gotta pump or slam the brakes to get it to stop and its really weak. The brake pedal feels different when pushing it in too. What do you think it is? This is a 94 4x4 explorer, what do you think this would cost also?: It does sound like you have some air in the system. Bleed the brakes while someone repeatedly applies pressure to the pedal, topping off the brake fluid resevoir, until you don't feel any more sponginess in the pedals, and the fuid comes out of the bleed valve in a continuous stream with no interruption.

Q: I have a 2008 Pontiac g6 GT 3.5L, and I love it! I‘m getting ready to start modding the car, both for looks and function. I can tear a car apart and wire up speakers, subs, tweeters, decks, and DVD screens, but I am TERRIBLE with engine and other components. I want to start with a new set of tires, wheels, and maybe replace the brakes. I don‘t really know much about brakes, but the ones I have are decent (stock). I‘ve seen a lot of cars with this really nice, shiny colored brake attachments (idk if it is pads, or a shoe or whatever), and I would love to get that look, and improve my brake function.What can I do to achieve improving the function, and adding a little style with the colored part behind the wheel? Any help greatly appreciated!: The one with the best curves :D

Q: I need to know brake systems on chippers, not cars.: The metal bar is conducting the heat away. Did you know you can boil water on the stove in a strong paper bag for the same reason?

Q: please help me answer these questionsTechnician A says a dual master cylinder‘s rear piston assembly is called the primary piston. technician B says a dual master cylinder‘s rear piston assembly is called the secondary piston. Who is right?A,B,Both, Neither.Technician A says a certain automotive power brake systems use engine vacuum to assist brake pedal application. Technician B says certain automotive power brake systems use a vacuum pump to assist brake pedal application. Who is right?: neither on the cylinder . Dual master cylinders basically are A runs the Left front and the right rear, B runs the right front and the left rear. the actual location in the system is dependent on make and model. The reason for the crossover is so that if one fails, you would still have at least some control and stopping power in a crisis. Power brakes are run by vacuum. Some cars have a pump, and some cars have a connection to the intake manifold and use engine vacuum. The most common is to run it off the engine vacuum, but again, it can be model specific. The main reason the engine vacuum system is much more popular is that is has fewer moving parts and therefore is more reliable, and has less maintenance costs.

Q: I have a 98 VW Cabrio with which i drove in the snow for the first time today. I drove super slowly and a couple of times while i was slowly braking, the brake pedal would push up under my foot, in a sort of a loud vibration. My dad said that‘s what the ABS does for safety, but his car doesn‘t have ABS so I don‘t trust his opinion. The ABS light doesn‘t show up on the dash, but there is a light that sometimes is on the left of the sterling wheel.: Nothing to fear. This is exactly what ABS does. It pumps itself very fast-- much faster than you could so you get that sensation. The ABS light in my cars does not go on when braking . If mine goes on it means a problem.

Q: What is it used for?What does it do?Who invened it?all that good stuff: I would say yes but there is no way for me to know for sure without seeing or checking it out first.

Q: This happens is when it‘s cold outside usually. When I put the brake on, instead of the car stopping smoothly it stops abruptly making the entire car jolt almost. I definitely jolt in my seat. It‘ll keep doing that until the car is fully warm. Even afterwards I hear the back brakes almost like they‘re dragging? I don‘t know if that‘s the word. I‘ll step on the brakes slowly and I‘ll hear the back brakes making this weird noise. The only way I can explain is you know when you‘re on a bike on a gravel road and you put the brakes on but the bike sometimes still skids on the gravel.that‘s what it sounds and feels like but the car stops no problem. It‘s making me paranoid. I‘ve had all the oils and fluids changed and new brake pads about a year ago. What could this be and how do I explain to a mechanic?? I drive a 99 Chev Cavalier: The brake system should be checked. Most brake shops offer a safety check for a low amount. In my opinion though, it sounds like the rear brakes are worn and need to be replaced. If the rear brakes are locking, the shoes sound like they could very well be worn out. If you explain the rear brakes locking to a mechanic, he'll know exactly what I'm talking about and most likely advise getting the rear brakes checked and replaced.

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