HOT SELL AUTO BRAKE DISC WITH OEM:96179110 FOR DAEWOO ESPERO/CP-ESP-008 DAEWOO AUTO SPARE PARTS

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Min Order Qty:: 100 pc

Supply Capability:: 10000 pc/month

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Auto spare parts HT250 casting trailer and truck brake disc brake disc for truck trailer

1.Truck brake disc nodular graphite iron casting.

2.equipped with Disa sand process line.

3.With ISO9001:2000 and ISo/TS16949:2009 certificates

4.OEM Service/Design Service/Buyer Label.

5.OEM Quality Bearing Design( FIT / FORM / FUNCTION )

6.Wide Product Range(Customers' drawing or samples are accepted)

Auto spare parts iron casting HT250 truck brake disc brake disc

uto spare parts HT250 casting iron trailer and truck brake disc

OEM parts Good quality Competitive price
Excellent part supply system
ISO9001 and ISO/TS16949

We will check out the raw materials as well as the finished products strictly under the international standard and the requirements of our clients depending on our various equipment and our powerful analysis capabilities.

We put both process capacities and output capacities under control, so as to guarantee the process capacities are controllable and the process index is reasonable.

Q: How to get into the ABC brake system: Hello, you can use the detector can enter. If the vehicle is running into the ABS system.

Q: My truck brakes locked up last weekend, since then I have replaced the Calipers, and pads. It is still locking up on the driver side. Does anybody know what the problem could be or a web site that I could use to diagnose the problem? Here are the possibilities I have been told. The new caliper is bad; the brake line is deteriorating or kinked. I have checked that and I know it is not kinked; it could be deteriorating. I have been told it could be the boost cylinder or the master cylinder has gone bad. This truck has 247,000 + miles on it.: become a dealer and set up accounts. KL have first time order of $5,000, other suppliers are about the same or more. Dealers have to make a profit to cover cost of stuff on the shelf until it sells. Its easy for even a small shop to have $200,000 sitting around in stock. Its only money (income) when they sell it

Q: I have an 1997 f150 xlt supercab 8cy 4.6 liters. I checked the owners manual but it does not say.: Look by the wheels themselves. IF you have a wire running along the brake hose, then you have ABS on the front. On the rear, you will see a wire and sensor on the the top of the differential, usually right above the drive shaft.

Q: I just bought an 05 Durango at a Gov. auction. When driving i noticed some resistance from the brakes themselves, not the pedal. The brakes actually seem to work fine, but there is very noticeable resistance, especically at lower speeds, and i dont roll forward when i idle, not to mention squeaking at all speeds. I took it to a dealer they jacked it up, put it in neutral, and one wheel would not spin at all by hand, and the other three were stiff. So i assume thats where i am getting my resistance, but the weird thing is my calipers are not locked up, my brakes arent sticking, i cant figure out where this resistance is coming from. They said it was rusty under there and they wanted to replace the whole brake system, but i really feel its something else.: There are float pins. They allow the front and back pads to center themselves when squeezing the rotor while braking. If they are gummed up, or out of grease they can not float and keep that tension on the wheel. Another issue is where a soft spot occurred in the brake pad material and wore out sooner on one side. Then the pad begins to line up crooked and can get wedged in that way. Rust and dirt can get in around the caliper's pistons and wedge it out. They only release tension, not have a mechanism to pull away, so small resistances can hold the brakes on. Since, again, there is not a mechanized method of releasing tension on the brakes, if the union of the brake line to the caliper (or any joint) gets rusted (on the inside too) it can cause a resistance that the brake pedal can overcome, but the release force cannot. This would be the most expensive way to fix the brakes, and the most automatic by mechanics, since all the above issues would also be corrected in the process. The float pin and caliper piston issue could be saved by just taking it all off and cleaning them out and/or lubricating the parts that need it. Taking the wheel off and removing 4 bolts (two float pins and two bracket bolts disassembles the entire brake system to get to the components. Easy beginner task that might save you big $$.

Q: I have a 2000 v-star custom. I‘m changing the wire looms over every cable and have done everyone except the brake cable. How do you bleed the air out of the brake system after pulling the cable? How do you know when all the air is out of the system? I don‘t want to crash and die because I didn‘t get all the air out :)!: Be forewarned, it's not a job for a beginner. There are a lot of variables that can cause problems, to many to list here. Search Y! Answers above to learn of all the difficulties people have. Watch some YouTube videos to learn the basic process.

Q: I have a 1988 T-Bird Turbo Coupe. It came with an Automatic Braking System (ABS. The normal Braking Cylinder came with ABS, but that part is not made anymore. The only kind Braking Cylinders that are made come without ABS.: so once you replace the cylinder, there is no connection, that is how to disable the abs, all you should have to do, is NOT CONNECT THE ABS SENSOR AT THE WHEEL HUB since the new cylinder came without it, you cannot plug it in anyhow. you may want to call the parts guys at a ford dealer, just to make sure that is how to do it, but in reality you have no choice, once one sensor is disconnected, the system is disabled anyway good luck hope this helps

Q: Can i use the 07 xtr dual control hydraulic brake levers for other hydraulic brake systems like magura?: I very seriously doubt it will work. Plus, disk brake systems are so expensive, I'd never want to take the risk of messing them up by attempting to mix and match. As you probably know, hydraulic systems are usually sold in complete assembled sets - you get the levers, brakes lines, brakes and rotors in one complete package. They are not usually pieced together. So, as soon as you take one system apart, you will have to completely bleed the hybrid system to make it work. Secondly, Shimano recommends only Shimano mineral oil for their brakes, while Magura recommends only Magura brand mineral oil. They both warn that using the wrong viscosity oil will cause problems. I am pretty sure Avid uses standard brake fluid which is incompatible with mineral oil. Finally, I am willing to bet the systems have incompatible design parameters. Thus, even if you figure out the oil issue, get them bled, etc. one set of levers may not properly actuate another set of brake calipers. Hope this helps.

Q: I have a 1978 Chevy Corvette, I replaced the master cylinder, booster, calipers, brake pads, and rotors, and bleed the system 20 times, has new fluid, and each caliper is getting good fluid flow, and absolutly no leaks. The brake pedal feels good but it doesnt want to stop, stand on the brake pedal and doesnt lock up. There is no air in the system. Does anyone have any ideas on what else it can be? The only other thing I can think of is the Brake Booster I bought is bad. It was a re-man unit from the auto parts store.: When you replaced the booster did you make sure that the small push rod on the back was adjusted same as where itwas when you removed old one where it fits to the brake pedal there is a small adjustment bolt there ,and disc brakes have a different length rod to drum brakes.When you purchase new booster they come with both size rods.

Q: like to do a project on regenerative braking system any help please?: I would say ask solar car motor manufacturer Solectria but they were bought out. Honda and Toyota hybrids use them. In general the regenerative braking systems are velocity dependent and tend to absorb less efficiently at low RPM. They also tend to be much less efficient than the electric motor.

Q: I just replaced the pads and the rotors and I have the same problem. I think It might be electronic. I noticed a small steel sprocket on the inside outside of the front axle right below the shock strut. My friend said that is part of the ABS brake system. That small sprocket is broken, it has a small 1/4 inch gap in it. Could that be the cause of the brake pulsation. The problem only occurs when I depress the brakes hard now: Try cleaning the sensors, it is magnetized and it collected break materials around the sensor. The sprocket you mentioned don't often go bad or break easily.

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