4A0 615 301C disc brake rotor Auto spare Parts
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 100 pc
- Supply Capability:
- 10000 pc/month
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
You Might Also Like
Auto spare parts HT250 casting trailer and truck brake disc brake disc for truck trailer
1.Truck brake disc nodular graphite iron casting.
2.equipped with Disa sand process line.
3.With ISO9001:2000 and ISo/TS16949:2009 certificates
4.OEM Service/Design Service/Buyer Label.
5.OEM Quality Bearing Design( FIT / FORM / FUNCTION )
6.Wide Product Range(Customers' drawing or samples are accepted)
Auto spare parts iron casting HT250 truck brake disc brake disc
uto spare parts HT250 casting iron trailer and truck brake disc
OEM parts Good quality Competitive price
Excellent part supply system
ISO9001 and ISO/TS16949
- Q: Basically I took the van in to the shop and they told me they couldnt fix it and that I need a whole new brake system because there was some kind of liquid that was corroding and eating up the parts. They said I needed to take it to the dealership to be fixed. I have no Idea how much that will cost and if it is even worth fixing.
- it doesn't have to go to a dealer to get a new brake system on it i did a 98 this week and the total bill im looking at right now was around 800 and that front and rear and that's counting parts and labor on it and that was using new drums and rotors and all new wheel cylinders with rebuilt calipers,and ceramic pads on the front,and the best shoes you can buy and all the parts was bought through advance auto parts,it shouldn't cost you no more than 800.00 at the most,good luck.
- Q: I have replaced the brake lines, master cylinder, the vacuum hose from the carburetor to the vacuum booster. When the truck is off, I have all the brakes in the world. When I start the truck, the pedal drops to the floor, and takes 2-3 seconds to return. If you know the answer, solution, or where I can find the answer, please let me know. Thank you.
- I own a shop, and have my share of dealings with brakes. First of all lets think about this: The brakes are mechanical, and work just fine until you turn the engine on, so this indicates the master cylinder is fine, and the problem somehow lies within the brake booster. Don't think it is bad just yet! The vacuum line that supplies the booster may be the problem. There is a check valve in the line where it plugs into the booster. If its bad, then the booster will rob all the vacuum when you start the engine, and the pedal comes back once it runs some, so I think this valve may be bad. Take it out, and see if it hold pressure one way but not the other. If so, then its working right. With the engine running, unplug the hose, and it should kill the engine, or very near cause it to stop running. There may not be enough vacuum on the line, and it could be plugged up under the carburetor with carbon. You should be able to run a clothes hanger into it to open it up. I've seen some that had to be drilled out because the stuff was so hard, and had accumulated there for years. Either way. make sure you have a good supply. Make sure you have a good hose that doesn't leak, and the valve that plugs into the booster where the hose plugs onto should be able to suck air out of the booster, but not suck air the other way. In other words it lets air flow one way, but not the other. Since this is vacuum it should flow out of the booster, and not into the booster because you are dealing with vacuum, and not air pressure. If you determine the supply is good, and the valve is good, then if it doesn't work replace the booster. It must be one like what comes on it, or you could have a problem with the length on the rod for the master cylinder. You could even have the wrong booster on it. Glad to help out, Good luck!!!
- Q: Already replaced break booster, master cylinder, 2 wheel cylinders, checked the brake calibers and all the lines and the brake pedal still goes down to the floor. Please help me with any suggestions of what it could be. Anything will be greatly appreciated.
- Not bled properly. Redo it.
- Q: The car is 30 minutes from my house and i want to drive it home. I heard the 1999 tracker comes with a dual braking system. Does that mean the other system is not affected by the one that is bad? Can i use the emrgency break as a back up to get home? I am nervous about the brakes giving out on me. Should I try that or stay away from doing it and tow the car instead?Thanks!
- Tow it home. The dual braking system refers to the vehicle having an isolated system for the front and the rear. It is never a good idea to try and drive a vehicle that you know has bad brakes.
- Q: Explain why it is important to check your brake fluid regularly, be sure to explain what happens to the fluid when you step on the brake of a car and how that fluid then acts to make the car slow down, then explain why it is important to make sure that your car always has an adequate supply of brake fluid.
- it takes fluid before the brakes can work ! the master cylinder pushes the brake fluid to the calipers and the caliper pistons comes against the pads and the pads goes against the rotors to stop your car ! if you had no fluid then the master cylinder would have nothing to push !
- Q: I am a company driver and the airdryer system on the company tractor has been bypassed, my question is Compressed air - almost always used for brakes. Always needs drying after compression to avoid moisture from condensation getting into valves with this system bypassed does it cause a safety issue on brake failer?
- No matter what the reason for the BYpass,,,it is illegal,,the brake system has been compromised. While it will not cause the system to fail by itself,,,it's job is pretty self evident, and it is part of the brake system for a good reason. If you dont want to make trouble for yourself,,,,anonymously call your local heavy vehicle inspector and report the company. they will investigate and it wont lead back to you.
- Q: I changed the front brake pads of my mazda 95 protege without changing brake rotors or resurface last month and got 1000 miles on it.Now I need to change the front rotors because of its crack. Can I change rotors only or Is it imperative that I always need to change rotors and pads together?One more question, when I step on brake pedal, it doesn‘t stop right away. to fix this problem, what do I have to do? Do I need to change brake fluid? thank you
- If there is only 1000 miles on it, personally I can't advise you of what to do on these brakes, as a tech you replace it all as a set. pads, resurface/replace rotors. On my own car, I would probably replace the rotors and re use the pads I had. If they only had 1000 miles on them. The car not stopping right away can be due to a lot of things, glazed rotors for one, brakes out of adjustment, air in the brake lines, a master cylinder on it's way out, or a brake booster not functioning properly. Brake fluid should be changed every two years or more under severe conditions. It should be clear, and never use DOT 4 on a car with an ABS brake system.
- Q: I just bought an ‘07 camry and for some reason, the brakes feel a little weird to me. Spongy would be a good way to describe it. No lights come on, the car stops fine, but it seems like the brake pedal is soft. I read some q‘s about bleeding the brakes, and my issue isn‘t like that.What is normal? How far should the brake pedal be pressed before the car stops and/or the pedal stops? I can press my brake maybe 8-10 inches before the car comes to a complete stop.
- The feel and travel of any break system is dependent upon its design. Depending upon what kind of break booster and cylinder they use compared to the size of the caliper assembly will determine how much travel is necessary to get breaking. The auto companies spend an enormous amount of time trying to match feel to the target audience. But that said, 8-10 inches is really excessive. Get them looked at soon.
- Q: WHEN OFF BUILDS UP HEIGHT IN BRAKE PEDAL FINE, BUT GOES TO FLOOR RUNNING, WHAT COULD CAUSE IT ? PS ABS LIGHT IS ON BUT THINK ITS JUST A SENSER.
- when it rusts it looses electrons, in an oxidation reaction. the equation is. Fe - Fe2+ + 2e- you can convert it back into iron by adding electrons into it: Fe2+ + 2e- - Fe
- Q: I have opened the hydraulic system serving the rear brakes on a 2005 toyota camry. Rather than have a person pumping the brake pedal- my usual method- couldn't I simply fill the master cylinder and pull fluid through the system at each rear wheel cylinder using a vacuum pump and a catch jar? The car has anti lock brakes if this matters. Also, I removed the brake lines from the rear cylinders and drained all the fluid. Will it be necessary to bleed the front brakes? The master cylinder reservoir is now very low on fluid ,but I believe the front and rear brakes are nearly separate systems, sharing only a common master cylinder which has two separate fluid supplies. Thanks
- yes... a vaccum bleeder is the best and preferred method to bleed automotive brake systems now and although as you say... the front and rear brakes are basically seperate...it is still a good idea to bleed both and start with the wheel farthest from the master cylinder.. typically the passenger side rear, and make sure to keep the master cylinder topped off while bleeding so as to not draw in more air when the resevoir gets low then do the driver side rear, then the passenger front, then driver front if you emptied the lines you are going to be there awhile... so make sure you have plenty of new clean fluid on hand , best to have 2 people ..one to keep the resevoir topped off while the other uses the vaccum bleeder heres how the vaccum bleeders work.... make sure the bleed screw is loosened before starting, (not stuck), then lightly tighten it, then connect the vaccum hose and begin pumping the vaccum tool a few times to build the pressure...then loosen the bleeder one quarter turn until the vaccum is released then close the bleeder again and begin again... until the fluid runs smooth with no "spitting" from air in the line
Send your message to us
4A0 615 301C disc brake rotor Auto spare Parts
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 100 pc
- Supply Capability:
- 10000 pc/month
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
Similar products
Hot products
Hot Searches
Related keywords
