heavy duty high quality auto spare parts for truck 9l3z-2ca26-a

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Supply Capability:: 10000 pc/month

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Auto spare parts HT250 casting trailer and truck brake disc brake disc for truck trailer

1.Truck brake disc nodular graphite iron casting.

2.equipped with Disa sand process line.

3.With ISO9001:2000 and ISo/TS16949:2009 certificates

4.OEM Service/Design Service/Buyer Label.

5.OEM Quality Bearing Design( FIT / FORM / FUNCTION )

6.Wide Product Range(Customers' drawing or samples are accepted)

Auto spare parts iron casting HT250 truck brake disc brake disc

uto spare parts HT250 casting iron trailer and truck brake disc

OEM parts Good quality Competitive price
Excellent part supply system
ISO9001 and ISO/TS16949

We will check out the raw materials as well as the finished products strictly under the international standard and the requirements of our clients depending on our various equipment and our powerful analysis capabilities.

We put both process capacities and output capacities under control, so as to guarantee the process capacities are controllable and the process index is reasonable.

Q:I just bought an 05 Durango at a Gov. auction. When driving i noticed some resistance from the brakes themselves, not the pedal. The brakes actually seem to work fine, but there is very noticeable resistance, especically at lower speeds, and i dont roll forward when i idle, not to mention squeaking at all speeds. I took it to a dealer they jacked it up, put it in neutral, and one wheel would not spin at all by hand, and the other three were stiff. So i assume thats where i am getting my resistance, but the weird thing is my calipers are not locked up, my brakes arent sticking, i cant figure out where this resistance is coming from. They said it was rusty under there and they wanted to replace the whole brake system, but i really feel its something else.: There are float pins. They allow the front and back pads to center themselves when squeezing the rotor while braking. If they are gummed up, or out of grease they can not float and keep that tension on the wheel. Another issue is where a soft spot occurred in the brake pad material and wore out sooner on one side. Then the pad begins to line up crooked and can get wedged in that way. Rust and dirt can get in around the caliper's pistons and wedge it out. They only release tension, not have a mechanism to pull away, so small resistances can hold the brakes on. Since, again, there is not a mechanized method of releasing tension on the brakes, if the union of the brake line to the caliper (or any joint) gets rusted (on the inside too) it can cause a resistance that the brake pedal can overcome, but the release force cannot. This would be the most expensive way to fix the brakes, and the most automatic by mechanics, since all the above issues would also be corrected in the process. The float pin and caliper piston issue could be saved by just taking it all off and cleaning them out and/or lubricating the parts that need it. Taking the wheel off and removing 4 bolts (two float pins and two bracket bolts disassembles the entire brake system to get to the components. Easy beginner task that might save you big $$.

Q:Hi, I am making a model car for a school project. This usually would not be so hard, except that the car :-has to be able to stop automatically at a given distance (ranging from 5- 10 meters)-it runs on electricitysohow would i go about making a system that will brake the car, after the given distance?i was thinking, maybe something like a timer , that i would set for X seconds, and after X seconds, it would cut off the power that is supplying the motor that turns the wheels, and puts power into a braking system.what would that system be?thanks!: As a professional mechanical engineer I have always sought the simplest possible solution to problems. In this case I'd tie one end of a string of the desired length to the back of the car and and step on the other end with my foot. A possible refinement would be to include a short length of bun-gee cord to soften the stop.

Q:The brakes still work but i have to push the pedal all the way back to get the car to stop. and i recently put in brake fluid so does this mean i need to breaks or is it something else?: leaking fluid from brake system IE wheel cyc, line or other leak or it could be the master cylinder the light is triggered by pressure differential on the lines so there is a leak somewhere or a seal blown in the master cylinder check the fluid lvl if its full u need a master cylinder unless its antilock brakes then it could be a module failure but i dont think thats your issue

Q:1) What is a combination valve?Do you the name of the 2 ports in a master cyclinder?what will an accumulation of moisture in brake system cause?: The combination valve warns the driver if there is a problem with the brake system, and also does a few more things to make your car safer to drive. I wanna say intake and return ports Brake fluid comes under extreme pressure and heat as well as it is hygroscopic. This means that the fluid actually attracts water. These three things can cause decreased performance and or failure of the brake system in a vehicle. Moisture contamination causes the boiling point of fluid to drop, causes corrosion on internal metal parts, and degrades seals on the brake system. Studies have shown that by the time a new car is only 18 months old, its brake fluid contains 3% water. This is enough water in the brake fluid to lower its boiling point by 25%. When the fluid breaks down from water, pressure and heat it loses its ability to keep internal and external seals conditioned. This can cause premature seal failure, which causes brake fluid leaks from calipers, wheel cylinders, and even the master cylinder. This can even cause the brake hoses to fail. Corrosion to metal parts from contaminated brake fluid can cause caliper or wheel cylinder failure.

Q:I have a 2005 mitsubishi galant. Recently i had an issue while driving where my brake pedal went all the way to the floor and i couldn‘t stop. I was in the process of getting new back brakes. I replaced the rotors, brake pads in back and also bought a brand new master cylinder, thinking that was what was causing the problem. However with all these new parts installed and yes they were bled correctly, its still going to the floor, no brake pressure at all, any ideas?: Take it to a brake specialist and get the system pressure bled. Some cars require it.

Q:My MB clk 320 has 60000 miles, and has done all the scheduled services (B service) at MB dealer. It seems that the B service only check all fluid levels. I wonder if I need to do the services below: Coolant System FlushBrake System FlushTransmission System FlushReplace Fuel Filter and Air FilterThe engine oil (Mobil 1)is changed every 10000 miles at the dealer upon the request. Is it necessary to change the engine oil every 5000 miles?: well a superconductor (metal cooled to the point where it encounters no electrical resistance) will also float on top of a magnetic field. This has something to do with its interaction with the magnetic field, and I'd guess it may affect the field's shape or strength.

Q:98 pontiac Grand AMneeds full brake system repairhow much should it cost on average, labor and all: you can not repair the side wall of the tire the side wall is to thin to hold any patch or tar rope the best thing to do is go buy a new tire or go to a juck yard and find a good tire

Q:I checked, had to fill the Brake fluid several time at a fast pace, since it was leaking, Now every other day it is half empty again, and the check light for this brake turns ON, The brake light is RED and the ABS light is YELLOW, Is it saying that I should check the Brakes, since they might be too OLD, or is it something else, I am still Driving it but with much CARE than usual! Can I drive with it !?Car is 1993 Acura Vigor.: you answered your own question REMOTE hence they may not have power grid to take power to them or it is so unreliable that they create and rely on there own source with out government interference

Q:the brake system has abs,every time I press the brakes they go to the floor.I have tryed bleeding them and it is still having problems.: start with the furthist wheel brake from the master cyelinder and work your way closer as you go most of the time its the passager rear then the drivers rear then the passager front and then the drivers front and if you dont get any air after bleeding your brakes thay should be bleed and you should have good pedle if every thing is working the way its saposto good luck

Q:empty, should i put same brake fuild for both tanks? whats the difference why they are seperate ?: There are two tanks because you have two separate braking systems on the car--usually hooked up on what is called a dual diagonal system. The idea behind this is that if you spring a leak or otherwise have a problem with either system you do not lose all braking capacity. Usually each of the systems controls the front brake on one side of the car and the rear brake on the opposite side so that you will not have a torque effect when you hit the brakes after one side has failed--hence dual diagonal. Now, in that both reservoirs are being drained, I would guess it is fairly likely you have had a master cylinder failure and this would be evidenced by wet looking areas below the tank which have probably gathered up a fair amount of grime by now. Your other respondant are correct in pointing out that if you are losing brake fluid fairly suddenly and rapidly, you need to attend to this promptly, as if you lose your brake fluid the brakes will cease to function.

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