Auto Part Semi-Metal Car Brake Pad System 1

Auto Part Semi-Metal Car Brake Pad

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Loading Port:: Qingdao

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 100 set

Supply Capability:: 50000 set/month

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Specifications

Brake pads
1)Asbestos, Non-asbestos, Semi-metallic, Nao, Ceramic, Carbon fiber 2)High noise abatement
3)Prompt delivery

Core Products:

We produce Asbestos, Non-asbestos, Semi-metallic, Nao, Ceramic, Carbon fiber brake pads .

Description:

Crossing Reference Number				Application
Crossing Reference Number				Application
FMSI	D1203-8323	FERODO	FDB1313	Scania Benz Man Iveco DAF
WVA	29087	WVA	29059
WVA	29106	WVA	29105
WVA	29062	WVA	29061
WVA	29060	WVA	29046
WVA	29045	WVA	29042
WVA	29202	WVA	29201
WVA	29179	WVA	29163
WVA	29109	WVA	29108
O.E.M.	0034201620	O.E.M.	0024204920
O.E.M.	082135100	O.E.M.	0044202220
O.E.M.	2992348	O.E.M.	1439324

Features:

1.Shimmed, chamfered and slotted to be consistent with OE Design

2.Positive mold process

3.Ultra-quiet performance, low dusting

4.Rubberized multi-layer shims

5.Responsive braking and longer pad life

6.Sensor wires included on those vehicles with OE sensor wires

7.QS9000, IS09002 and TUV certified

Advantages:

1. Production experience: 15 years

2. Items' availability: 1800 models of brake pads, our R&D Department can develop 10 new items per month. Presently the models under production cover European and American Applications, Japanese and Korean Applications, and heavy-duty applications for truck, bus and engineering vehicles etc.

3. Formulation: Asbestos, Non-asbestos, Semi-metallic, Nao, Ceramic, Carbon fiber

4.OEM Accepted: We can produce any your design.

5.Guarantee: 30,000- 60,000kms

6.Warranty:If there is any quality problem, we will supply the same quantity goods with free charge to you.

Auto Part Semi-Metal Car Brake Pad

Q: Hi,I am going to take the NYS test for my motorcycle license soon. I have my driver's license, and I want to be able to drive a motorcycle. I know I can pass the written portion, but how hard is the actual road test? Can I just take a Motorcycle Safety Course (I heard they are like 2 days for $200) and get my license with the certificate and present it to the NYS DMV? If I can't, how hard is the road test? Anyone who has taken it, please tell me some maneuvers they make you do, and what parts of my driving should I practice most on?Thanks,Bob: I just took my buddy for the NYS road test. A couple right and left turns around two blocks, a pair of figure-eights, that that was it for him. Some things the examiners look out for, and you need to be doing routinely to ride safely: signal 100 feet before the corner. Don't stop in the crosswalk. No California stops. Make a complete stop before taking your right foot off the brake. Look, look, look and look over your shoulder before making a turn, changing lanes, pulling out from the curb, or pulling over to the curb. Don't just rely upon mirrors. They will also make sure your bike is registered, inspected, you have a valid permit, and that you are with licensed motorcycle operator. Not just a person licensed to drive a car. I took the MSF course and think it was fantastic for the safety aspects, and for having instructors that will coach out any bad riding behaviors on the riding range before they become habits. Just keep in mind that the certificate you receive does not equal experience. The MSF teaches you the basics, the fundamentals you need to ride safely and build experience upon. It's up to you to continue to practice and build your riding skills. I can't put enough emphasis on the fact that you only learn the basics. You need to put in road time to apply the skills and master them. If you go the MSF route, assuming you pass, it can take up to 8 weeks to receive your certificate. Until then, you are NOT road-licensed. You are still on a learner's permit. Once you get the cert, take that to the DMV and they will issue you a temporary license that will make you road-legal.

Q: I‘m interested in knowing the manufacturing process of the motrcycle parts mentioned:piston,engine block, brake shoe. Also, a full equipment requirement for manufacturing these products and the dealers involved as well as the invoices for these equipment. It‘s not impossible but tasking: they are usually castings, then machined to start off you'd need a furnace or something to heat a crucible up to high enough temperatures for the metal you are using to liquify you will need wooden mould's to make castings in casting sand once you've got the castings done you will need a milling machine and a metal work lathe to machine the parts from the castings, this isnt just something that can be done in a day, you need experience with furnaces and casting before starting as it can be very dangerous, to go out and buy the machinery required you'd be looking anything around ?13,000 for a milling machine the right size, and around ?2000 for a lathe the right size, if you just go straight onto using these machinery without any training you will definatly loose a finger or two, there not toys and a milling machine and lathe from somewhere like machine mart isnt any good for what your after as they are too light work and cannot cope with the bigger blocks to fabricate plus ontop of all of this you need the tools for the miller and lath and they can be anything up to ?200 each If your looking to do this as a one off then i wouldn't waste my time and money, but for a business id advise find somewhere what does engine rebuilds and try and get a job for a few years there then try and get a job manufacturing engines then build your machinery up gradually,

Q: I‘m interested in knowing the manufacturing process of the motrcycle parts mentioned:piston,engine block, brake shoe. Also, a full equipment requirement for manufacturing these products and the dealers involved as well as the invoices for these equipment. It‘s not impossible but tasking: Pistons are usually made from medium carbon steel and turned on a lathe, engine blocks are made from steel and are made either by hand (expensive) or on a CNC mill,

Q: I have an 86‘ gsxr750 with a hydraulic clutch, I took the slave cylinder out the other day because you have to when replacing a chain and ever since I took the slave out the clutch does not work. When I take the slave out and depress the clutch all the way you can see the inner part of the slave cylinder move about 1mm or so, it‘s a very slight movement. So my question is, how much is the inner part of the slave supposed to move and is the push-rod supposed to be touching the slave or no? Because I see in the middle of the slave theres like a perfect cut out that looks like the push rod goes into.: The notch you can see i were the rod locates and it sounds to me like you have got air in the system because the rod should travel approx the same distance as the master, to bleed depress the master cylinder and release the bleeder nipple ,hold the master cylinder depressed and close the bleeder,release the master and repeat until air stops coming out the bleeder,all the time keeping the master cylinder full of fluid,when all air is gone clutch should activate

Q: the only riding experience i have is i just completed a msf course.im 32,male,5‘7 170lbs.: I would undoubtedly go with the Fazer rather than R6 - the R6 is the most racy but FZ6R several reasons. Its newer, a no brainer, a 3 year old R6 may have been hammered unless ridden by a nun, they are hard not to ride fast. Two, until you find your feet there is the chance of a minor spill, I had a few when starting off even despite 15 years MX experience. The plastic on an R6 is EXPENSIVE. The engine in the fazer is based on the same model R6 so still a great performer, possibly cheaper to insure? Don't get me wrong, an R6 is a superb bike, and having screamed one around a race track for a couple of days I was awed by the performance, handing and sheer fun, however having seen a lot of newbies spread all over the tarmac due to inexperience I would start slow and move up.

Q: By beginner I mean driving on the streets. You can leave out safety gear like helmets and such as I‘ve got that covered as well as basic operation of a motorcycle. I‘d like to know stuff like: How do you pass a semi on the freeway? Will their be a large air gust like in a car when I do so? and What part of the lane should I get in to pass the semi? Tips on quick braking would be helpful too. As well as ant experiences you may have learned the hard way. My bike is an 1978 Suzuki DR 370 enduro.: No worries man, the only time a semi is gonna blow you off the road, is at high speedjust ride the outside of the lane, and you'll be ok. Like the other post said, dont brake into the corners, and use engine braking as well instead of just brakes and downshifting multiple gears, it will make your brakes last 5x longer.

Q: Can you just hold in the clutch and brake, then downshift all the gears when your motorcycle stop?: No, the transmission will not allow you to do that. You cannot downshift (or upshift) more than ONE gear when the bike is at a compete stop. You can just hold the clutch in and brake to a stop, but you need to downshift as the bike is coasting - still rolling. You should always match your gear to your road speed so you can let the clutch out and take off again.

Q: are motorcycle titles linked to the frame or engine?: So.your clutch lever is lower than your brake lever? Well.when you removed the clutch lever, did you loosen the housing? The housing of it clamps around the handle bar. You loosen it and turn it to where you want it, so that the lever is comfortable.

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