• Customized auto spare parts,brake disc rotor for TOYOTA 4351235190,brake disc machinery factory System 1
Customized auto spare parts,brake disc rotor for TOYOTA 4351235190,brake disc machinery factory

Customized auto spare parts,brake disc rotor for TOYOTA 4351235190,brake disc machinery factory

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Shanghai
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Min Order Qty:
100 pc
Supply Capability:
10000 pc/month

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Auto spare parts HT250 casting trailer and truck brake disc brake disc for truck trailer

1.Truck brake disc nodular graphite iron casting.

2.equipped with Disa sand process line.

3.With ISO9001:2000 and ISo/TS16949:2009 certificates

4.OEM Service/Design Service/Buyer Label.

5.OEM Quality Bearing Design( FIT / FORM / FUNCTION )

6.Wide Product Range(Customers' drawing or samples are accepted)

Auto spare parts iron casting HT250 truck brake disc brake disc

uto spare parts HT250 casting iron trailer and truck brake disc

OEM parts Good quality Competitive price 
Excellent part supply system 
ISO9001 and ISO/TS16949




Q: I just had my brake hoses done(since there was a hole)Pads bothCalipers bothfluidtotal w/ labor 490.00now i was driving this morning and they were fine and then when i stopped going down a hill they went to the flooralmsot hit the person in front of mebut got control what the heck is wrong?!?!!!Could it really be air in the system ?? even though i drove about 20 miles with the brakes alright? thanks!
Yes it could, demonstrated by loss on a hill -- take the car back, tell them what happened, and insist they bleed the brakes from all four nipples to get all the air out. If they start giving you crap, ask them for their business license number and the state license number of the mechanic who worked on your car so you can file formal complaints. Any decent shop should apologize profusely and fix the problem.
Q: My two front brakes keep locking up and the brakes peddle keep getting hard what might be the problem ?
The master cylinder piston isn't coming back far enough to allow the fluid to return into the reservoir. It's either sticking or the brake pedal is adjusted out to far. Under the dash, there is an adjustment. Shorten the rod and that should help. Another probability is the block that equalizes the pressure could be sticking. It's located under the hood in the brake lines. Master tech 40 yrs.
Q: I have a 2003 Toyota Camry with 232,000 miles on it. I needed a hole through the firewall so I could run some wiring throughout the car. I looked up a diagram online showing where I could drill. Turns out, I drilled right into the braking system. Now the bit is stuck in the black brake mystery. I know, I‘m an idiot. The bit broke off in the black half cylinder on the opposite side of the firewall above the brake. And now my brakes are pressured and difficult to press. Will I need that entire system replaced? I don‘t even know what the hell goes on in that thing. Any help is appreciated. If anyone does know what needs to be replaced, please tell the specific part etc. thanks Marcus
that is a brake booster and work on vacuum if u drilled into it u must change it that's why the brake pedle is hard loosing vacuum knucklehead its called a brake power booster if u get it at a parts store usally comes with master cylinder yhen u will have to bleed brakes take off the master not the brake lines put it to the side if u have room remove the booster the bolts are under the dash by brake pedel 4 of them take off the big vacuum hose from under hood and put the new one in
Q: why we use liquid in hydraulic brake system?
It has to be liquid which is incompressible compared to gas or air. Few bubbles in the hydraulic system would cause malfunctioning and the brake become spongy. That is why we need to bleed the system and get rid of all gas bubbles.
Q: My dad owns a wrecker service and has given me a 2000 Dodge Ram 1500 Pick up 5.2 L V8. The truck runs great, but the brake pedal mashes all the way to the floor. The truck has been sitting up for about 3 months now. There is brake fluid (full) but the gasket under the cap was torn. I have been told there may be air in the line and should bleed the lines. Is this a waste of time considering that the reservoir was full or should I try this before replacing the master cylinder or booster? What should I look for to make sure it‘s not the master cylinder versus the booster? Thanks for all who help!!
Use a hair drier to thaw it out and then work your new fluid up into the lines.
Q: I recently replaced the master cylinder, calipers, pads, rotors, and brake fluid on my 1992 Jeep Cherokee. I have bled the system 4 times since then, so Im sure there is no air in the system, however only the left brake feels like it is working, it‘s not very evident until I apply them hard then it pulls to the left. Is there something that I didn‘t do or messed up?
May be that you have a collapsed flexible brake line to one of the calipers. If you replace, replace both of them.
Q: Complete brake system failure due to malfunction in abs. Pulled fuse to abs system and brakes return to normal without abs option as light is now lit. Anyone else had this problem as ford dealers say they have never heard of this happening.
i think you should take tht to a heating blanket specialist
Q: I have a 2003 Mitsubishi Galant, a few months ago I put some 20in chrome rims on, (before I had 18s) but ever since I got them I feel like it‘s harder for me to come to a stop. It‘s not a huge difference but I feel it a little.With the 18s I never felt any type of lagging. Should I upgrade my brake system to handle the extra weight? Or do you think the car just can‘t handle the size rims I have? Or is this normal?
heavy rims and large tires increase rolling resistance, and require more effort to turn so yes they would need more braking effort to get stopped. You may want to consider a braking system upgrade to ffset the bigger wheels and tires. ( on another note. get your speedometer calibration checked.;larger tires can throw off your speedo by 5-10 mph or more, and I figure you'd rather hear about a ticket from some dork on a message board, than some guy with a badge.) enjoy your car.
Q: My brake petal went straight to the floor. why?
Could be a couple of issues. A leak in the brake system. A broken or leaking brake line and you lost brake fluid. Look for puddles of clear liquid where you park the vehicle. Look for wet spots along the brake lines. Air in the brake line. If the fluid level gets too low you can get air in the brake lines. A leaking wheel cylinder or caliper. Look for wet areas inside your tires. Bad seals in the master cylinder. The master cylinder needs to be replaced. Try this simple test. Fill the brake reservoir with the correct type of brake fluid. Pump the brake pedal several times. On the last pump hold firm but not excessive pressure on the brake pedal. Hold this pressure for about 1 minute. If the pedal stays firm you have air in your brake lines. You need to bleed the air from the brake lines. If the pedal slowly goes to the floor, you have a leak. This could be a leaky brake line, wheel cylinder, caliper, or master cylinder. Look for leaks under the vehicle. If you don't find a leak then suspect the master cylinder. No matter what, get this fixed ASAP before you either kill yourself or an innocent victim. Bad brakes are nothing to mess around with.
Q: I have a 1988 T-Bird Turbo Coupe. It came with an Automatic Braking System (ABS). The normal Braking Cylinder came with ABS, but that part is not made anymore. The only kind of Braking Cylinders that are made come without ABS, but will it be safe to drive? And how will it perform?
once you disconnect one wheel sensor, you have disabled the entire system, the brakes should be fine, you will not have the abs feedback you were used to, so put the car back together, and drive it around a little bit carefully until you get the feel of the brake padal on normal brakes ok, it should not be a problem, as long as the repair work is done correctly take your time, do it right good luck

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