Customized auto spare parts,brake disc rotor for TOYOTA 4351235190,brake disc machinery factory

Ref Price:

Loading Port:: Shanghai

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 100 pc

Supply Capability:: 10000 pc/month

Inquire Now

Add to My Favorites

OKorder Service Pledge

Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery

OKorder Financial Service

Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing

You Might Also Like

Winda WP16 for Passenger Car Tires EU Standard Semi Steel Radial Tyre

front shock absorber parts for HONDA STREAM 51605-S7C-N08

Passager Car Radial Tyre 175/70R 14 LY966

Cheap Pcr Tires for European Market with Good Quality

Truck Tyre Flap 10.00-20

Tyre Tube Flap,inner tube flap,tire flap

Aluminium Alloy Model No. 131 for the best quality performance

Wheel Aluminium Alloy Model No. 813 for the best quality performance

Auto spare parts HT250 casting trailer and truck brake disc brake disc for truck trailer

1.Truck brake disc nodular graphite iron casting.

2.equipped with Disa sand process line.

3.With ISO9001:2000 and ISo/TS16949:2009 certificates

4.OEM Service/Design Service/Buyer Label.

5.OEM Quality Bearing Design( FIT / FORM / FUNCTION )

6.Wide Product Range(Customers' drawing or samples are accepted)

Auto spare parts iron casting HT250 truck brake disc brake disc

uto spare parts HT250 casting iron trailer and truck brake disc

OEM parts Good quality Competitive price
Excellent part supply system
ISO9001 and ISO/TS16949

Q:Before a road accident,my car had been recently serviced and the brakes were very good. After the accident, the brakes were spongy and air had got into the system. In the accident,the car had impact damage on the near side wheel and the off side wheel had bumped up a high kerb.I had also braked excessively to try and avoid the collision. There was no evidence of any damage to the braking system.How could air have got into the system?: Sounds like you damaged something that is causing brake fluid to leak somewhere. Could be a line, a fitting, a wheel cylinder? If fluid leaks out it has to be replace with air. It's not so much how did air get in but where is the fluid leaking? Other wise the repair guys fixed some leak in the brakes and never bled all of the air out properly. I think I'd check in with the repair facility.

Q:I have a 2000 Ford Focus and my brakes were going bad so everything was replaced by a professional mechanic. New brake shoes, pads, rotors, calibers, master cylinder, and brake booster. Now I have no petal, when I press down on the brake it goes right down to the floor and gives no resistance at all. The car does not stop. The mechanic doesn‘t know what is wrong with it and cannot fix it. I‘m looking at forking over MORE money to have it looked at by someone else and I have already gone into considerable debt just on the work that I‘ve had done. If anyone can offer any answers, or suggestions about what may be wrong, it would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!: You still have air trapped in the system. Your mechanic needs to rebleed the entire brake system. But i would look at a defective master cylinder as well. This same problem happened to me recently too. A defective master cylinder. Why did you need to replace the booster? This is trare when then go bad! I own a car from the 70's and the same booster is still in there working just fine! Were your brake hoses replaced too? Sometimes the hoses deteriorate internally and traps the air in the hoses causing a no pedal or brake pull. good luck and feel free to e-mail me with any questions.

Q:what will happend when the brake fuild flows back into the master cylinder on an ABS system: FLOWS BACK?? Hope you don't mean from replacing pads type service where you push pistons back in to fit new pads! Coz DON'T, without releasing bleed nipple to depressurize the system, back pressure can permanently damage system . If thats not what your talking about how can fluid flow back?

Q:I have an old '96 Pontiac Sunfire and I've had it a couple of years. For the time I've had it, my brakes always locked up and a loud grinding noise would scream at me every time I braked a little too fast on dirt roads. Well, that was fine cause 90% of the time no one is around and I trained myself to handle it without sliding into something.But now my car has started doing this on pavement in traffic.It seriously scares me. I mean, I'm about to get new tires and have my oil changed, and I was gonna have my anti lock brakes looked at too, but I'm worried of the cost. I hate anti lock brakes because every time I tell my dad that my car locks up he doesn't understand what I'm talking about and my boyfriend is a decent do it yourself mechanic man (not literally, but he knows a little bit about cars) and he doesn't know what to do and my car NEVER locks up when I'm with them so I can't SHOW them what I mean.Help?: OK, With most all anti-lock braking systems, there are speed sensors on the wheels that tell the computer whether or not to engage the anti-lock bypass in the master cylinder. Three things generally happen to them; They get dirty enough to send false signals and just need cleaning. They become misaligned and need to be readjusted. They just go bad and need to be replaced. These are the main culprits. There are others but they happen rarely if at all. The next thing it could be is that you would have to replace the master cylinder. If the repairs prove to be too expensive for you to deal with right away, there is a simple quick fix that will tide you over for a while. Simply locate the ABS fuse using the diagram in the owner's book in the glove box, and remove it. This will disable the anti-lock option and you'll be running on a standard braking system. It will turn on the idiot light on the dash but if you can put up with that you'll be just fine until it's time to get the repair done at the shop. Good luck hon.

Q:So I went to have my car serviced and the guy told me that the my front brakes have 3mm brake pads, which is bad I figured.I‘m just curious on whether or not a 3mm brake pad has already made significant damage to the rotors, calipers, etc.?I‘m trying to see if I need to change just the brake pads or the whole system/part of the brake system.Thanks: He probably just meant your pads are low Meaning to changed the pads. Nothing else should be affected by low break pads aside from your discs. Discs are a rare thing to change but worth looking at

Q:Tell me clearly what exactly does the antilock braking system do?Will it prevent the steering form locking when brakes are applied heavily while cornering or prevents the locking or the brakes or prevent the locking of the wheels.If you can, please suggest any website concerned to this topic.: Prevents the wheels from locking due to extreme braking and allows the driver to stop the car in a shorter distance whle having full control of the car. This system was pioneered in Formula 1, but it was banned along with many other electronic aids (traction control, which became legal again in 2003; launch control, active suspension etc.) at the end of the 1993 season.

Q:i know it somehow locks the back wheels, does it work like normal disc brakes? and ive heard some people use it for cornering, how so?: The normal brakes on a car are activated by a hydraulic system so that it just takes a little force on the pedal to apply a lot of braking force to all four wheels. The emergency brake doesn't use hydraulics - it just uses a cable going directly the the rear brakes. It won't stop you as fast but if you get air in your brake lines or something, it is better than nothing. Some people do use the emergency brake when drifting (cornering while sliding sideways) because it can help them initiate the slide. In a rear wheel drive car with a stick shift car, generally the driver will do a clutch kick and accelerate to get the rear wheels spinning. If that alone doesn't do it, he can pull the handbrake to lock the rear wheels before dropping the clutch and accelerating to spin them. In a front wheel drive car, you can't make the rear wheels spin so locking them up is the only way to reduce traction on command. Pulling the handbrake accomplishes this. Drifting is dangerous, hard on the car and very hard on the tires. I wouldn't suggest trying it.

Q:brake system on galan mitsubishi cars?: I am assuming you mean Galant made by Mitsubishi. (What year model?) Most year models I have seen are 4 wheel disc brake systems. Any specific model Galant?

Q:I‘ve a 92 mazda serenia. The antilock brakes are not working and there is an indicator light for same. But, the conventional or non-computer-assisted brakes still seem to work fine. Fixing the antilock brake system will cost much more than the car is worth. So my question is, normally, will conventional non-assisted brakes continue to work even if the ABS is not working properly? The car seems to brake very well, but on the ice, they do lock. It seems logical and reasonable to me that car makers would not make something as important as braking entirely reliant on computer/electronic circuits. Does anyone have experience with this?: Well, its better than mine, both the brake and the anti-lock brake lights are lit. And the car still stops. I've owned it for about 9 months like that. I never really believed in all that stuff, (air bag, antilock.) In the car I had before that, I was going down a freeway about 65 when the wet road suddenly turned to ice. I realized that because I saw a tow truck on the other side and several SUVs in the ditch. There was also a SUV about a quarter mile in front of me, doing about 30. I was able to switch lanes before fishtailing and spinning my car around twice. I managed to stay on the road and just broke a parking light as I grazed a gaurdrail while sliding sideways. Keep in mind, that car did not have antilock brakes, traction control and all that stuff that is supposed to keep cars on the road like all those SUVs that were in the ditch.

Q:I have changed the rear pads, new master cylinder and brake line back to the brake light actuator. The brake pedal will not pump up! I used a vacuum pump to pull the fluid out of the bleeder screw to the point of only getting fluid no air. Still will not pump up. I removed the supply line to the calipers and used a plug to check the master.it pumps to the point of pressure. I replaced the supply line and when pumping the pedal the brake pads do engage the rotor, and fluid will come out of the bleeder screw but still the pedal will not pump up to pressure? Can anyone help?: one variable here is the increased power or air through the engine. if you have a substantial increase in power through the engine, the exhaust may not be able to let it flow as well as desired. i really dont see that from a cai though, not unless it was a 60s car anyway.

1. Manufacturer Overview
Location
Year Established
Annual Output Value
Main Markets
Company Certifications

2. Manufacturer Certificates
a) Certification Name
Range
Reference
Validity Period

3. Manufacturer Capability
a)Trade Capacity
Nearest Port
Export Percentage
No.of Employees in Trade Department
Language Spoken:
b)Factory Information
Factory Size:
No. of Production Lines
Contract Manufacturing
Product Price Range