DW15 Series Air Circuit Breakers

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Q: I am having a hell of a time trying to find a 1.6 micro mini fuse for a circuit board with wire leads on them. I need ones that are fast acting (so far, I have only been able to locate slow)Is it possible that I can replace the 1.6 fast acting with a 1.5 fast acting? I have a 1.6 slow fuse with leads on them. But I heard that you shouldn't use a slow fuse with sensitive electrical components where there had been a fast acting fuse prior. (I would only be running at most 50w)Thanks for any help you may offer, I am much obliged: I'm sure that your 1.6a fuse will not be running at 1.6a, so I guess that a 1.5a fast fuse (Flink) would be ok, 0.1 amp is not a huge difference. Dont know about the wire leads, could you not fit a fuseholder instead and use this? maplin .uk/Module.aspx?Modu maplin .uk/Module.aspx?Modu

Q: I like using recycled objects for art. I was wondering what kind of tools I'd need to first cut and then weld/fuse pieces of found metal for small to medium sculptures. I don't want to buy a whole workshop! Also something small that I can use to fuse or shape plastics. Safety tips for doing this kind of thing are appreciated. Thanks!: Some plastics can not be fused - heating them burns them. The most flexible tool for welding various metals is a MIG welder which using a wire feed through a gas flow to make small to medium welds in several different metals, the gas keeping oxygen away so the welds are strong. The total cost includes the welder, and smaller versions can be plugged into a wall outlet and cost well under $200, and the tanks for gas which can be rented but cost a hundred dollars or more if you buy them. Refilling the tanks is generally modest and is done by swapping them at a welding supply place. The best tool for cutting is a metal bandsaw because it is smooth in handling, but one with a big enough throat for odd pieces can cost a bunch. The most flexible tool, used in conjunction with a good sized vice, is a reciprocating saw of good quality, which will cost $100-150. With a variety of blades of different lengths and tooth roughnesses and its access from one side, it allows taking things apart. However, the back and forth sawblade movement can make for rough cutting, especially when jamming occurs.

Q: Blown Kenwood KDC-P5028 CD Reciever?I have a Kenwood KDC-MP5028 CD player. I was installing the system and everything was going fine. The wiring harness has the yellow cable missing which I think the the 12v. I attatched a wire and hooked it all up and everything was working fine. When I pushed the unit into the dash the wire cameout and it touched the black ground wire. I heard a pop and noticed that the unit was smoking a little bit. Now my unit will not power back on. The fuse is still good so thats not the problem. The radio fuse is also intact. Does anyone know what the problem is? Is there an internal fuse I dont know about? Your help wil be much appreciated. Im also trying to avoid taking it to a repair shop because I know they are going to charge me an arm and a leg. Thanks, Johnnie: If the fuses are good and it was a dead short you most likely fried the circut board. If you are mechanically and electronically inclined dis assemble the unit and go over everything with a good magnifying glass. Start at the point of the burn. (it will be obviously marked) and follow the track. If it is only the wire its self then you get off easy by replacing it. Next look inside as many units have another fuse hidden inside. If that is not it and it is one of the fine strips in the board take a very fine bit of wire and solder it in to bridge the burnt section. If any of the small components (resistors, diodes) you can replace the larger ones but not the tiny ones. Damaged ones of any type will be discolored and you can spot them with the glass.

Q: I turned the key once for the electrical components and it worked for a split second then it went dead. Then I tried to jump start it and nothing happened, no clicking or anything. just dead. Then, when I unhooked the jumper cables, there were sparks from the jumper cables which would indicate that the battery isn't dead.: HAVE U CHECKED YOU ALTERNATOR WIREING IT MY JUST BE YOUR ALTERNATER IT MY NOT BE CHARGING OR YOU CAN CHECK YOU FUSE BOX AND SEE IF ANY ARE BLOWN OUT SOME TIME THE CARS LOCK UP WITH THE COUSE OF THE STUPIDEST FUSE LOOK UP YOUTUBE CAR BATT PROBLEMS

Q: I have looked at the circuit board looks fine.Is there a commen component that gets burned out?: Have a tv repair shop demagnetize the picture tube. It may be an easy fix. Then again, it may not.

Q: Hi my first visitI have been having problems with battery drains lately. Overnight the voltage of my car battery drops from 12.4 to 11.8 and if I leave it more than 3 days it will not start (11.5 to 11.2). On idle and load it is near 14.2. So I feel alternator is charging well.I am about to start pulling fuses to locate drain but was wondering if an alternator that is starting to die (but will still charge) can cause battery drain. Can the diodes in alternators draw current from the battery?Thanks: Alternator Draining Battery

Q: For example:RresistorCCapacitorLinductorVtubeQtransistorIs there a complete list of normal component designations?: Hi JH, try

Q: Hey, just a bit of physics revision and I was wondering if anyone knew the function of these circuit components, what they do in the circuit, what they measure, why it's needed, etc. Here are the components in a circuit I need to know about:SwitchCellBatteryDiodeResistorVariable resistor LampFuseVoltmeterAmmeterThermistorI.D.R (What does that stand for?!)It would be great to go into detail of what they really do, although some may seem quite straight forward, and just common sense! Even if you don't know them all, or you just know a few, the explanations still help :) Thanks!: Switch- Turns the circuit on. Cell- Basically, a single battery Battery- A pair of cells. Diode- A semiconductor device with two terminals, typically allowing the flow of current in one direction only. Resistor-A resistor is an electrical component that limits or regulates the flow of electrical current in an electronic circuit. Variable Resistor- A variable resistor is a potentiometer with only two connecting wires instead of three. Lamp- A device for giving light, either one consisting of an electric bulb, together with its holder and shade or cover, or one burning gas or a liquid fuel. Fuse-an electrical device that can interrupt the flow of electrical current when it is overloaded. Voltmeter- A device that measures Volts. Ammeter- A device that measures Amps. Thermistor-A resistor whose resistance varies as a function of temperature. Thermistors are used in electrical devices such as thermometers and thermostats that measure, monitor, or regulate temperature. I.D.R- Interval data recorder.

Q: I have an Alpine CDM 7874 head unit in my car the lights have gone dim on 1 side of the faceplate. Is there some fuse I can chage to get them working again, or should I get a new faceplate?: have you checked the fuses?

Q: I have a problem. I have an outlet that has a computer with a 500w psu, stereo, printer, two monitors, and a external hdd. The problem is that the outlet fuse keeps blowing and I cant figure out why. Im pretty sure im not exceeding the maximum power usage and I have already replaced the outlet. Im worried that one of my components may be shorting and leaking current but I dont know how to check. I do know however that it has nothing to do with the electrical infrastructure of my house because my father is using the exact same outlet now for his computer and hes not experieced the outlet blow yet.How can i find out which component is cause the problem?: Each component that you plug into the outlet should have an ID plate stating the watts (power) or the VA (volt-amps) [same thing]. The total should not exceed 1500 Watts. I would guess that the outlet (receptacle) is a standard two slot outlet (handles two plugs only). If it has the 2 straight flat blade (vertical) one shorter than the other, it is rated for 1500 watts (15amps of current). If both of these flat blade slots have a horizontal slot (notch) in the middle of each blade, it is for 2000 watts or 20 Amps of currant. It sounds like you are using a power strip of some sort (most are switched with a red pilot light and maybe even a 15 amp breaker as protection). Of course the wiring to that outlet should be 12/2 AWG wire and the fuse or breaker should be 20 Amps. Again the maximum load should be no more than 2000 watts total. (About the same as a space heater). If you total up the ID plates of each electrical appliance you have connected you will find that over a long period of time if you are running pretty close to that limit and the fuse or breaker gets tired. Heat is the culprit. You total up the watts of the hdd, two monitors and maybe the stereo (PA). I don't think your printer or external hard drive draw that much. Also you should have room around your equipment for ventilation. Good Luck - I hope this helps.

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