• FD3.0-1000-10  Wind generator System 1
FD3.0-1000-10  Wind generator

FD3.0-1000-10 Wind generator

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Type:  3 Blade Upwind

Rotor Diameter: 3.0m

Start-up Wind Speed:  2.5m/s (5.6 mph)

Cut-in Wind Speed:  3 m/s (6.7 mph)

Rated Wind Speed:  9m/s (20.1 mph)

Rated Power: 1000 Watts

Maximum Power: ~ 1300Watts  

Furling Wind Speed:  12 m/s (27 mph)

Overspeed Protection:  AutoFurl

Temperature Range:  -40 to +60 Deg. C (-40 to +140 Deg. F) Generator: Permanent Magnet Alternator

Output Form:48 VDC Nominal

Work principle and features

Working principle: Wind energy is used as the motive power to provide low speed rotation of a permanent magnet generator to produce alternating current which is then converted to direct current by a controlled constant voltage rectification system, the resulting voltage being stored in a battery, or batteries. The direct current from the battery, (batteries), is then converted to alternating current by an inverter, the resulting controlled and stabilised alternating current being used to power the load, this is the general principle for battery storage type systems. Grid connect systems take the alternating current produced by the turbine directly to an inverter which controls and stabilises the alternating current and also provides numerous control elements for direct connection to the electricity grid.

Features : The products combine unique and innovative design with high reliability. The innovative design has been awarded both Invention and Practical new patents by the State Intellectual Property Department and thereby has totally independent property rights in China, resulting in the market leading position in wind to electrical energy conversion, technical design and efficiency. Key design features such as very low rotation speed result in increased efficiency in comparison to other small turbine systems.

Applications and installations

The products are used in areas that benefit from good wind regimes but have little or no electrical grid connection such as; islands, desert and low inhabitation areas, frontier defence posts, microwave and telephone communication stations, forest observation posts, oil pipeline delivery stations, highway lighting etc. Rural and urban applications include, community squares and recreational areas, parks, landscape and scenic locations, resorts, and other ecological areas, applications also include on or off grid national electrified fencing systems.The utilisation of wind energy at no on-going cost significantly reduces the environmental impact of fossil fuel usage whilst saving vital energy resources.


Q: I have a 99 mitsubishi eclipse, and recently the radio stoped working, along with the reading lamp that I have. I looked under the hood in the fuse box, and there was a fuse blown, but everytime I put a new one in, it would blow almost right away. What exactly is this caused from, and how can I get it fixed?
There's a fault with one of the components on the circuit or one of the power wires is grounding to earth (trapped wire/damaged sleeving etc). Identify exactly which items are covered by this fuse and switch all the items off. Change the fuse for a good one, and then switch each component on in turn to see which one causes the fuse to blow. A fairly common fault for aftermarket stereos is for a wire to get trapped between the mounting cage and the chassis of the stereo when it's being pushed into the dashboard, stripping the casing off the wire and causing it to ground to earth. Could also be listening to the stereo too loud (again aftermarket stereos are more likely to be affected) - the extra current to the stereo may cause it to pop the fuse.
Q: I recently bought an old 2002 Hyundai Elantra, and it runs ok, except it won't start nearly every morning. My mechanic told me the battery's most likely going. The only reason I'm thinking it's something else is because every morning when I go to start the car, there's a loud, intermittent noise coming from the fuse box; it's like a loud grinding/electrical noise that only lasts about a second at a time, but continually comes back almost on perfect rhythm (think of your directional, same sort of rhythm). Sometimes the lights will flash on and off with the noise too. Could this be something other than a bad battery? Or is it possible that these symptoms suggest a more electrical problem? Any help is greatly appreciated!
From your description, I understand that indeed there is an electrical problem. I would start with what is called wiggle test. While engine is running, try gently to wiggle the fuse box back and forward. Should you find any abnormalities in engine running or engine stalls or anything that shouldn't be doing out of the ordinary, you can say that the fuse box is your problem. If all good, secondly I would remove the fuse box and do a pin test on all fuse box connectors from under the box (wiring harness that plugs into fuse box). This will tell you if any male connector is loose. Should you have any loose connectors, just close them up a tiny bid so that they wont move. Before you put the box back, apply some electrical stabilant to ensure proper conductivity on all electrical components. This procedure could be time consuming but is well worth it to try. Finally, before you do all these actions please, have someone doing an AVR test to ensure your battery is good and entire charging/starting system is normal. Hope this will help you.
Q: I was looking at a couple of sets of component systems here is my list and if you can give your advice on which one to look more into and which ones arent anygood and if you have any experience with any of these companies speakers? ThanksBlaupunkt pccb650PowerBass s-6cPhoenix Gold Ryval V65Crunch Maxxsonics GTS6.5c
the crunch is probably the lowest on my list ,they are good for fill , but not for the front ,you probably will want a little bit cleaner sound , I would recommend the Powerbass s-6c , out of all the ones you have listed this would be your best bet.
Q: I have a 400w/1000w dc to ac power inverter. Every time I power it on, the 40A fuse blows even with no load. I tried a direct connection to the battery and it still blows. If anyone has an idea how to fix this please tell me.400w continuous 1000w peakinput: 12vdcoutput: 110vac@60hz
have you looked at the owners manual ? how about the manufacturers website ?
Q: i understand you need the battery to get a car started and the spark plugs, but what else is used in a car to get it to start? i ask cause when i try to turn it on sometimes it wont start right away, the battery is fine my sparks are good, but the car still has a hard time starting up.
Basically everything under the hood is necessary to start the car. Air filter, oil, battery, ignitions, ECU, fuel, fuel injector, pistons, valves, crank case, crank shaft, spark plug, wires, etc. You would have to ask more specific question and describe your problem more specifically. Good Luck.
Q: I have checked the voltage at the disconnect and the breaker. They are fine. I have checked the display connection and that is okay. Where do I go from there? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
there are fuses inside the spa pack that help PROTECT different components. if 1 or more are defective (BLOWN) then that can affect the top side controller. do you have a G.F.C.I receptacle on the spa pack? some times they trip also BUT they also protect the COMPONENTS of the spa system ! you need a QUALIFIED spa repair man to check for grounds in the spa system.
Q: 99 jetta was working fine till one day it didnt startit didnt crank or many any sounds when i go to start it i also noticed before i did this that my key remote was not locking or unlocking my doors, also the controls on the door to lock and unlcock didnt work either everything lights up headlights , radio. but it wont start,, i had it jumped and nothing happend. mechanic tested the battery and said the battery is fine. and he doesnt know wat happend.any help ?
Are your Brake Lights working, as there is a Brake light switch that goes flaky, then move the Transmission selector to Neutral and try to start it It sounds as if your neutral/park interlock is possibly wonky.
Q: any suggestion to fix them would be appreciated.
i own a restoration save,,and that i think of its in basic terms blown a fuse for it identity replace the fuse,and if starts off blowing fuses plenty identity take it and characteristic it checked it could have a quick in it that's inflicting it to try this,yet while that's the 1st time its achieved it,it somewhat is in basic terms an previous fuse that have been given susceptible and blew out on you,,shop a watch fastened on it even with the shown fact that,and if it starts off giving challenge identity have it appeared at,it may desire to reason a electric challenge if it does supply extra challenge,,solid luck i'm hoping this help,s
Q: I checked the cooling fan fuse underneath the hood but it is fine, i think that is for the radiator.There is 20 fuses in the hood fuse box. In the interior fuse box there is 25 fuses but my owners manual does not state any mention of an a/c fuse. What # is it?Where is the fuse for the air conditioner?2002 honda civic sedan.
both fuse boxes will have a/c components, and not just fuses. there are also relays
Q: I have an assignment on 'Electricity in the home'. The part i have to research on is the components of the main eg; main wire, live wire, neutral wire, 3pin plug, fuse, switch.What do these fall under? I cant jus look for main n find these components. I was told its the 'Main Circuit Breaker'. Im lookin for this and non of the components i listed are on the sites. Is there a particular word i have to use. Are there any other components im missing other than the ones listed above?i jus need to write short notes and get some pictures but im not finding any information.
components are: circuit breaker aka MCB circuit breaker box aka distribution panel aka Consumer unit wire of various sizes wire staples outlets switches lights (permanent mounted in ceiling or wall) Parts attached to the appliance, not part of the mains plug wire and the various tools used to put it all together.

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