FD2.1-200-8 Wind Generator of Different Sizes
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1. Product Description:
The products are used in areas that benefit from good wind regimes but have little or no electrical grid connection such as; islands, desert and low inhabitation areas, frontier defence posts, microwave and telephone communication stations, forest observation posts, oil pipeline delivery stations, highway lighting etc. Rural and urban applications include, community squares and recreational areas, parks, landscape and scenic locations, resorts, and other ecological areas, applications also include on or off grid national electrified fencing systems.The utilisation of wind energy at no on-going cost significantly reduces the environmental impact of fossil fuel usage whilst saving vital energy resource
2. Product Characteristic:
Wind energy is used as the motive power to provide low speed rotation of a permanent magnet generator to produce alternating current which is then converted to direct current by a controlled constant voltage rectification system, the resulting voltage being stored in a battery, or batteries. The direct current from the battery, (batteries), is then converted to alternating current by an inverter, the resulting controlled and stabilised alternating current being used to power the load, this is the general principle for battery storage type systems. Grid connect systems take the alternating current produced by the turbine directly to an inverter which controls and stabilises the alternating current and also provides numerous control elements for direct connection to the electricity grid.
3.Specification：
Type: FD2.1-200-8 Rotor Diameter: 2.1 m Rated Wind Speed: 6 m/s (13.4 mph) Rated Power: 200 Watts Maximum Power: ~ 250 Watts Furling Wind Speed: 12 m/s (27 mph) Temperature Range: -40 to +60 Deg. Output Form: 24 VDC/12VDC |
4. Reference Picture:
- Q: I wrote to the company and they said they can't (or won't) identify the thermal fuse rating, nor will they tell me where to get one. They told me to just buy a new fryer for $50. I don't want to do that, being that I know the fuse costs $2 (I just replaced on my coffee machine). The numbers on the old one are illegible. If I knew the specific rating, I think I could just scoot down to the local Radio Shack and get a new one, like I did for the coffee maker. I can find no service manual anywhere. I assume the rating has to be at least 450 degrees F, but I want to get some more info before replacing what is essentially a fail-safe protection device. If I get on that is rated to high, I run the risk of severely overheating the unit, and I have teenagers who may use it; too low, and it will blow before the oil gets nearly hot enough to fry my chicken. I know I can make the thing operate without the fuse, but I would like to replace it. Any info?
- If the old fuse is open, it did what it was supposed to do. Until the cause is found and repaired it will continue to open when it is used. Take the unit in to a local service center and have it repaired or purchase a new unit. The reason the company will not give you the information you request is a product liability issue. If you install a fuse in a faulty unit and burn down your home they are concerned about an insurance claim. For $50 it is not worth risking your home with a fire and your insurance deductible is probably much higher than $50. All advice on this site is worth what you pay for it and that is the limit of the liability.
- Q: i recently opend up my ps2 and took the power board off of the console and wired in an led light through the 4 prongs that go to the power board, i was super carefull with everything and i put it together, it worked and the led light was too weak for i and i took it off, put it back together and it worked fine again, so i left it sitting for all night and i noticed i kept hearing a loud ringing noise like an old tv noise, so i went over to my ps2 because i noticed the red standby light was off and i thought i left the switch off in the back, so i switched it back and fourth and nothing happend, so i was like aww crap so now im in this situation to where when i turn the back switch on it just rings loud and nothing happens, what could be the problem?
- You'd need to look at a schematic and say exactly where these prongs were, where they are on the power board. It could be a lot of different things. Adding that LED light to those prongs may have cause a power spike or fluctuation on part of the board and blown a fuse or damaged a component. It may have connected circuits that were never meant to be connected, delivering too much power to something. Sure the light worked, but electricity will flow through any closed circuit, that doesn't mean it's meant to be closed. Those power boards are designed to take 120V and chop it up into different-sized tiny little bits to be passed of to the primary board and its sensitive circuits. They are complicated, and you shouldn't mess with them unless you have a schematic and know what you're doing. Even dropping a paper clip or screw on it can accidentally cause an overflow and destroy some circuits. It's why solder is made with lead, it prevents flakes of tin from shedding off and ruining the circuits. Since it is ringing, it sounds like you have mostly wiped out your power board's relays. Not much you can do about that except replace them. And I wouldn't do that for a good long while if I were you, until the capacitor cools back down again. A TV technician would be able to open it up, find the high-voltage circuits and discharge them. I'm guessing you're not a TV technician.
- Q: I have a circuit keep blowing fuse(0.4A) with slightly lower rating of my transformer (0.5A) without any load, so i think is the issue of in-rush current. ***Note : my transformer is toroidal, saw a lot of website saying they inhibit higher inrush voltage (80times. scary)***Will the in-rush current will do any harm or any changes to other things(component) ?If so, what type or rating of fuse should i get ? (best if easily get, market available)ORis there any way to de-energize the transformer when it is turned off/before switch on, or any circuit to use for protect over-current/voltage during inrush ONLY ***Note that i want to make my circuit fuse safe from short circuit and blow the fuse if it is really short circuit***
- What is the rating of the transformer, Input voltage, output voltage and output current? By 0.5 amps do you mean the input current of the transformer, because this would be the loaded current of the transformer.The transformer should not be blowing a fuse unloaded, transformers have a magnetizing current not an inrush current The magnetizing current is due to the inductance of the primary winding. Transformers act as coupled inductors and since the secondary is open the only load on the input fuse should be the small magnetizing current. I am guessing you might have a shorted winding.
- Q: I am going to run one wire off my battery terminal to an auxillary fuse block under my dash. The fuse block has 8 places for 30amp max fuses and the block is rated for 120amp total. The wire I will be running is about 8'-10' long. What is the formula used to figure what gauge wire I need?
- There really isnt a formula for such a short run. You need to determine how much current your device will utilize (radio maybe 10 amps, or a light maybe 5, etc) Once you determine how much current your device will draw, you then determine the proper gauge wire.
- Q: How do I know when its time to change my transmission fluid on my 2009 elantra?
- Follow the manufacturers recommendation as listed in the Owners Manual. There's quite a difference between makes, and even models within makes. For example: we have two 2008 Fords. . . . . Ford recommends a transmission service at 60,000 miles for one.not until 100,000 miles on the other. I do NOT believe in transmission flushing using a machine as offered by many quick oil change shops and chain garages: that stirs-up the fluid, contaminants and crud in the transmission but doesn't change the filter. All car makers I know of recommend having the transmission drained, lower pan removed, filter replaced and new fluid.
- Q: i forgot to switch to 230v when plugging in my american desktop infrance, there was a pop, and now it wont start. did i completely breakit or is there a circuit breaker or something i can fix
- chances are, you just overloaded the power supply. I would take it to a service center or a PC repair place and have them check it out for you.
- Q: i already had a 600w rms mono amp for my bass and a 1.0 Farad Digital Car Audio Capacitor, and it was fine for a year , a few week ago i install a 200w rms American pro amp to run my door speaker and it happen every morning i had to jump my truck, i unplug that new amp for a week and everything went back to normal during that week i took truck to dealer for a 250 point inspection everything was fine ,i saw that my battery was a cheap factory battery so i got a optima battery i rewire everything 0 gauge front to back and 4 gauge on back to wire both amp and cap.after all my truck die agan , had to jump this morning
- It may seem obvious to you already, but there's an issue with your American pro amp. It sounds like the amp is staying on all the time. Make sure the REM input only has +12volt power when the key is turned. The remote lead from the HU is supposed to switch the amplifier on, but if you've got a stock radio you might want to tap a fuse in your fuse box to get switched power. If it's turning off like it's supposed to, it has an internal fault making it a constant drain on your battery.
- Q: 1. Protection against disease2. Communication between cells, tissues, and organs3. Oxygen transport4. Carbon Dioxide transport5. Buffer against pH changes6. Nutrient supply7. Tissue repair8. Transport of hormones, lipids, and fat soluble vitamins Hurry!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!11
- 1: Could be White Blood Cells and other immuno cells 2: Hormones 3: Hemoglobin located on red blood cells 4: Carbonic An hydrase (which fuses CO2 molecules into a bicarbonate for transfer in the blood) as well as carbamino hemoglobin located with red blood cells and some plasma transports small amounts of diffused CO2 5: Red blood cells hemoglobin and bicarbonate are 2 major blood pH buffers 6: Don't know what you mean cause glucose, amino acids and fatty acids/ other monomers float freely for the most part in the blood (plasma if you want the correct portion of blood) 7: If by tissue you mean clotting then platelets and clotting proteins like fibrin/fibrinogen 8: Carrier proteins carry those things. or they float freely anything thats a protein or cell is part of the solid component anything not manufactured by the body is plasma portion, e.g. glucose, amino acids and such been awhile since I did circulation so I hope thats pretty accurate
- Q: E.C.M. stands for electronic control modal
- Don't stick wires
- Q: I have a 2002 Honda Civic that has a 12-Volt power outlet to plug in things such as my radar detector. I've used the same radar detector in my Civic for years without any problems. Recently, after using my radar detector, my fuse would burn out after using the outlet with the detector plugged in. It happens every time. I've already changed the fuse three times! And it's the correct amps too! Does anyone have any idea what's going on? Does my car have a more serious electrical problem I should know about? Any suggestions would be great.
- Obviously something has happened to your radar detector to cause it to draw excess amperage or the fuse wouldn't blow. Perhaps the power cord has an issue?
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FD2.1-200-8 Wind Generator of Different Sizes
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT or LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
- -
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
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