FD2.1-200-8 Wind Generator of Different Sizes
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- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT or LC
- Min Order Qty:
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- Supply Capability:
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1. Product Description:
The products are used in areas that benefit from good wind regimes but have little or no electrical grid connection such as; islands, desert and low inhabitation areas, frontier defence posts, microwave and telephone communication stations, forest observation posts, oil pipeline delivery stations, highway lighting etc. Rural and urban applications include, community squares and recreational areas, parks, landscape and scenic locations, resorts, and other ecological areas, applications also include on or off grid national electrified fencing systems.The utilisation of wind energy at no on-going cost significantly reduces the environmental impact of fossil fuel usage whilst saving vital energy resource
2. Product Characteristic:
Wind energy is used as the motive power to provide low speed rotation of a permanent magnet generator to produce alternating current which is then converted to direct current by a controlled constant voltage rectification system, the resulting voltage being stored in a battery, or batteries. The direct current from the battery, (batteries), is then converted to alternating current by an inverter, the resulting controlled and stabilised alternating current being used to power the load, this is the general principle for battery storage type systems. Grid connect systems take the alternating current produced by the turbine directly to an inverter which controls and stabilises the alternating current and also provides numerous control elements for direct connection to the electricity grid.
3.Specification：
Type: FD2.1-200-8 Rotor Diameter: 2.1 m Rated Wind Speed: 6 m/s (13.4 mph) Rated Power: 200 Watts Maximum Power: ~ 250 Watts Furling Wind Speed: 12 m/s (27 mph) Temperature Range: -40 to +60 Deg. Output Form: 24 VDC/12VDC |
4. Reference Picture:
- Q: i the wiring going to the fue box bad or is the ecu bad?
- Put a fuse that is correctly rated for that slot. Turn the ignition on (engine off) and see if the fuse pops. Right now you may have a short in that system. You need to recreate the situation that popped the fuse in the first place. The only way for wiring to go bad is to draw to many amps through the wires that will in turn, melt the wires. The fuse box is there to protect the vital components of the car. If the mass air flow sensor is not working, the car will not stay running. It will start, but not stay running.
- Q: If every time I put a new fuse in my surround sub and switch on the power to the sub it instantly blows the fuse with a deafening 120Hz ripple even before I press the power button on the controller, which I should have to do before any sound comes out at all, what is the easiest way to diagnose which component has fried and made a short? Is there any way to test capacitors without power running to them?
- If by surround sub you mean a dedicated amplifier and a subwoofer hooked to it: 1] Test the impedence of the subwoofer; if it is shorter that may be the sole problem [or it may have fired the amp]. Compare that with the specification value 2] You can measure caps with an ohmmeter [very crubdely, though, but likely well enough; see
- Q: I just asked a question about my 2006 trailblazer with 48,000 miles. The service engine light does not come on when I turn the key over, neither does the seat belt light. What worries me is that I see a scuff in the dash where the screw is to remove the dash. The car hasn't given me trouble and I took it to chevrolet to have a work up done on it, and it was hooked up to a computer and no warnings came up, but WHY would that light not work? I am guessing somebody has probably tampered with it, and trying to screw me over, but its actually been a marvelous car so far. Chevrolet told me that the light is tamper proof, but I don't see how. Couldn't they just pull it out, or color it with a marker or something? I hate having the wool pulled over my eyes and it pisses me off to think someone would do that.
- the light needs to be working because the computer system will not close loop until the circuit is complete. this is true no all the rest of the computer Components. now it might act like its running fine and it might run fine for a long time. but you will not get the emission to pass if you have to have it inspected. and one of the first thing the inspectors looks at.
- Q: I turned on my truck the other day and suddenly my radio, dome light and power locks did not work. I wouldn't think all of these would be on the same fuse, but I don't know much about that stuff. Could it be a bad ground wire?
- Unfortunatly, all of those things are normally on the same fuse. You blew it, litterally. P.S.I'm a mechanic
- Q: I want to add a circuit to my car to hardwire my gps and radar, and to run my rally lights.I have 10 gauge leads with a 30a fuse. I have 3 spst switches to run each. I have the appropraite fuses for each component.so to get to the point, i need to know how, if possible, to wire them in series so the voltage going to each is the same. This is my first time messing wiith electronics, and do i need to add any relays or capacitors?Thanks,Ben
- the voltages in a series circuit are not the same the current is. you need a parleel circuit
- Q: After discovering the reason why my car battery kept dieing, a massive draw on my car battery coming from my IOD (Ignition off Draw) fuse, i was able to start my car reliably once again! However, without this fuse, my turn signals will not work. Is there an easy way to get my turn signals working without having to take out and put back the fuse every time i want to start my car???
- If okorder
- Q: For my 2005 chevrolet malibu maxx, the front left turn signal isn't working. I changed the bulb still the bulb comes on; but doesn't blink. Per the manual, there's 3 fuse boxes. However, none of the fuses are called turn signal. One is called left headlamp low beam.In summary, does anyone the location for the turn signal fuse for a 2005 chevrolet malibu maxx? Thanks
- it can,t be the fuse or none of them would work. i would be checking on the socket for the bulb. maybe a bad ground on the socket.
- Q: Every time I hook my hot to the amp it starts glowing and smoking. I tried changing from a 20 fuse to a 30 and it still glows and smokes.
- I concur with Aero
- Q: I'm getting a MA audio hk898 ampit says 1200 RMS bridged at 2 ohms, but its got 2 40 amp fuses, what can those fuses actually hold when it comes to watts, just curious.
- If your battery voltage is 14.4 then it should handle 1152 Watts. So therefore either your amp has slow-blow fuses or your amp doesn't put out 1200 Watts RMS.
- Q: Battery is Good, Alternator is good, both have been tested. My car starts up with no problem. when im driving in a neighborhood without having to apply alot of pressure on the gas everything is fine. But the moment i enter a freeway/highway where i have to press the gas a little harder my alternator fuse (30a) blows instantly as soons i begin to speed up the battery light comes on. I put another fuse in and same thing, everything is fine when im not pressing the gas hard but the moment i have to apply pressure my alternator fuse blows and the Battery comes on. So replcaed the fuse once again. This time i put some tape around my O2 Sensor wires. And wala! It worked, no fuse blowing when i speed up but then after like 15 min of driving it started back :/. What could be a possible fix?? thanks!!
- Please let us know the make, model, year, and engine of your vehicle. The information may help us at this end. And did this problem appear all on its own? That is, was any work done to the car previous to this problem? What gave you the idea to put tape around your O2 sensor? It is very strange that it even had any effect on the situation. I find your problem very intriguing and would like very much to help you out. I'll return and edit this answer after you give us some more clues. Thanks for your cooperation. ---------------------------- Edit: As of this moment, you haven't given any more information. So I have to guess that although your alternator has been tested, it is likely not been tested as it would be stressed under the conditions that you have specified. I can only imagine that for some reason when under a high speed load, there is a condition in the alternator that causes excessive amperage to be drawn through the 30-amp fuse. A thorough inspection of the wiring to the alternator is also needed to rule out a short. Sorry to not be of more help. --------------------------------------- Edit: Did read your additional information. I checked for service bulletins. Although there were 126 of them, none of them dealt with this problem. The charging circuit was very simple and it looks as though the problem is internal to the alternator. Whatever test has been used is not covering the mode of operation that the alternator encounters in the vehicle. If individual components are available internal to the alternator, it can be the voltage regulator or possibly a rectifier. Often nowadays, the procedure is to replace the alternator altogether.
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FD2.1-200-8 Wind Generator of Different Sizes
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT or LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
- -
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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