FD2.1-200-8 Wind Generator of Different Sizes
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- China Main Port
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- TT or LC
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1. Product Description:
The products are used in areas that benefit from good wind regimes but have little or no electrical grid connection such as; islands, desert and low inhabitation areas, frontier defence posts, microwave and telephone communication stations, forest observation posts, oil pipeline delivery stations, highway lighting etc. Rural and urban applications include, community squares and recreational areas, parks, landscape and scenic locations, resorts, and other ecological areas, applications also include on or off grid national electrified fencing systems.The utilisation of wind energy at no on-going cost significantly reduces the environmental impact of fossil fuel usage whilst saving vital energy resource
2. Product Characteristic:
Wind energy is used as the motive power to provide low speed rotation of a permanent magnet generator to produce alternating current which is then converted to direct current by a controlled constant voltage rectification system, the resulting voltage being stored in a battery, or batteries. The direct current from the battery, (batteries), is then converted to alternating current by an inverter, the resulting controlled and stabilised alternating current being used to power the load, this is the general principle for battery storage type systems. Grid connect systems take the alternating current produced by the turbine directly to an inverter which controls and stabilises the alternating current and also provides numerous control elements for direct connection to the electricity grid.
3.Specification：
Type: FD2.1-200-8 Rotor Diameter: 2.1 m Rated Wind Speed: 6 m/s (13.4 mph) Rated Power: 200 Watts Maximum Power: ~ 250 Watts Furling Wind Speed: 12 m/s (27 mph) Temperature Range: -40 to +60 Deg. Output Form: 24 VDC/12VDC |
4. Reference Picture:
- Q: If every time I put a new fuse in my surround sub and switch on the power to the sub it instantly blows the fuse with a deafening 120Hz ripple even before I press the power button on the controller, which I should have to do before any sound comes out at all, what is the easiest way to diagnose which component has fried and made a short? Is there any way to test capacitors without power running to them?
- If by surround sub you mean a dedicated amplifier and a subwoofer hooked to it: 1] Test the impedence of the subwoofer; if it is shorter that may be the sole problem [or it may have fired the amp]. Compare that with the specification value 2] You can measure caps with an ohmmeter [very crubdely, though, but likely well enough; see
- Q: I recently bought an old 2002 Hyundai Elantra, and it runs ok, except it won't start nearly every morning. My mechanic told me the battery's most likely going. The only reason I'm thinking it's something else is because every morning when I go to start the car, there's a loud, intermittent noise coming from the fuse box; it's like a loud grinding/electrical noise that only lasts about a second at a time, but continually comes back almost on perfect rhythm (think of your directional, same sort of rhythm). Sometimes the lights will flash on and off with the noise too. Could this be something other than a bad battery? Or is it possible that these symptoms suggest a more electrical problem? Any help is greatly appreciated!
- From your description, I understand that indeed there is an electrical problem. I would start with what is called wiggle test. While engine is running, try gently to wiggle the fuse box back and forward. Should you find any abnormalities in engine running or engine stalls or anything that shouldn't be doing out of the ordinary, you can say that the fuse box is your problem. If all good, secondly I would remove the fuse box and do a pin test on all fuse box connectors from under the box (wiring harness that plugs into fuse box). This will tell you if any male connector is loose. Should you have any loose connectors, just close them up a tiny bid so that they wont move. Before you put the box back, apply some electrical stabilant to ensure proper conductivity on all electrical components. This procedure could be time consuming but is well worth it to try. Finally, before you do all these actions please, have someone doing an AVR test to ensure your battery is good and entire charging/starting system is normal. Hope this will help you.
- Q: Can someone help me out here. Please in layman's terms, to much detail is not necessary.
- The hyphae is the thread-like filaments that form the structure of fungi. A mass of hyphae is called the mycelium. Upon the hyphae, spore bodies form to produce new fungal colonies. When the proper conditions occur, the hyphae of mating types fuse and form fruiting bodies such as mushrooms in which the sexually produced spores form and are released. The hyphae produces enzymes that digest the food they grow upon. These enzymes are called exoenzymes.
- Q: -Approximately 800 miles on the bike-58 cm. aluminum frame (Ideal for 6' to 6'3)-Alexrims--R500 rims-Maxxis Fuse tires-Shimano SORA flightdeck and components (derailer works well but needs configuring as there is a bit of
- Whilst I don't know anything about THAT bike, I will let you know that I commute on a bike with a similar spec. It's fine - go with it! I agree with the first poster, in that a groupset upgrade would outweigh the cost of the bike. Stick with it and just tweak a few bits n bobs, as and when required(tyres,etc) If I assume that you intend to join the world of 'roadies' then in 18 months or so upgrade your bike and you will notice a big difference and improved performance. Best of luck. .
- Q: I asked how to fix it, but was just told the same thing everyone else said, go to a mechanic and let them do it. I would like everyone to know write now that is my car, and I intend on learning everything I can about it, secondly I'm broke, and thirdly, i am a very poor grammarist.lol but seriously I would really like to know what this is.
- Some components have an internal, non-replaceable fuse that melts open at a set temperature. The reason that temperature is used is that when an electrical component starts to wear out, More energy is required to keep it going. More energymore heat through the wires, and the wires are protected by fuses that melt when the power draw of the component exceeds their thermal rating, usually expressed in amps. The most common part that blows an internal thermal fuse that comes to mind is a Ford Airbag control module, and just replacing the module usually results in another blown internal thermal fuse. There ARE components out there that have a resettable internal thermal fuse called a circuit breaker. When the component draws too much power, the circuit breaker trips open due to excessive heat , then, when it cools down, it will reset itself. The most common component that utilizes a non-replaceable circuit breaker is a GM power window motor. usually it will go up a little ways, then stop and not work for a minute or so, then will go up a little more, then stop.This is the circuit breaker cooling down and resetting. Hope this helps.
- Q: I posted yesterday about my TV. Now mind you I'm not an educated electrician but I'm no amatuer either. I have repaired our microwave, dryer, dishwasher to name a few. So I took our not working TV apart yesterday and found a blown fuse. Is there only one fuse to replace by the way? We live in a small town with no stores, so I decided to take a fuse out of one of our other TV's. It said it was a 125/ 4A just like the other one. I got it put in, put the TV back together, plugged it in and POP. There was a big pop, small spark at outlet. What did I do wrong? Shouldn't the fuse have been the same? Any suggestions or idea's. My friend is taking the old fuse to the store to get a new one, should I try this again or will it make more problems? Thanks Everyone for reading.
- The other posts so far are all essentially correct but if you want a little more detail as to what might be wrong ! First you need to be able to use a multi meter ! if you can well then with The meter set to measure ohms on say 20k range place meter prods across the main filter electro , looks like large can situated not far from mains input and on/off etc it will be labelled maybe 200mfd 400 vdc !! If you get a resistance reading of just a few ohms regardless which way you connect the meter leads then you can be fairly certain that the trouble lies with the bridge rectifier block with an open ballast resister as well ! prob 4.7 ohm 5watt !. Also the fault could also be the power regulator IC or transistor which ever the set uses ! The idea is to test those basic components first then if you find the faulty part then you can replace the fuse again . Do not bother replacing the fuse without testing the other parts . Oh one more thing ! the fuse should be a delay fuse !Well that covers the basics , there are still plenty of other possibilities But digest these first and do an Edit if you have further comments ! Cheers Pete EDIT. The tests that I have outlined are very basic and usually do not require a schematic to find the parts, it's like a motor mechanic does not need a workshop manual to indentify things like a carburetter or the spark plugs or the coil in any car he sees even in a make he has never seen before . Also it requires knowledge to understand a TV schematic or diagram . The solder needed is resin multi core solder and can be bought at any electronic store ! You will also need a de-soldering method , you buy solder wick which soaks up the molten solder or a desolder pump. If you still have missgivings then I think you would be better off to find someone who is more knowledgeable to do the job for you thus saving you time and money in the end ! Cheers Pete
- Q: i am working on a 200 mbz ml320 suv. both power seats will not work. I checked the fuses and they are good. I checked the grounds, and they are good. I even took the seat out of the car and tested itand its good. Just wanted to know if it could be a relay and something else i am not thinking of.thanks everyone.
- same thing with my ml320 take the connectors apart and clean them with a little sand paper 100 grit
- Q: I know it's loose because if I wiggle it the amp turns off. how can I properly adjust this without injurying myself or ruining frying my amp. do I really have to remove the fuse or since it's only the ground can I just untighten the screw on the cap and then slide the wire back in and tighten it back on the ground? thanks.
- Even with power disconnected, the capacitor is still charged and a short may damage it and/or other components. Here's the safe and proper procedure: 1) Disconnect the negative battery terminal (to protect the vehicle electrical system). 2) Remove the main amp fuse. 3) Connect a 1Kohm, 2 watt resistor across the capacitor terminals to discharge it. 4) Verify with a 12V test light or multimeter that the capacitor is discharged. 5) Repair the connection. 6) Insert the resistor in the circuit in place of the main fuse and reconnect battery negative (to recharge the capacitor). 7) When the capacitor is fully charged, remove the resistor and replace it with the main fuse.
- Q: hey! i have a music man 112 rd 50 and have problems to go with it, im not sure what the issue is but heres what she is doing. when i turn her on i have to turn the volume all the way up to get sound (at least 6 to 10) and then the sound is very muffled and clips in and out, it is not reaching anywhere near the volume it should, ive changed the fuse (it was not turning on at first fixed that) i have also changed the preamp tube and other tubes, they all work fine as far as ii can tell (there new they better be) any idea what may be going on??
- It could be the the power supply (that provided power to the tubes) is not working. Just because the low voltage filaments are getting power and lighting up doesn't mean that the high voltage portions of the tubes are getting power.
- Q: During the battle of Gettysburg, the gunfire was so intense that several bullets collided in mid-air and fused together. Assume a 5.07 g Union musket ball was moving to the right at a speed of 243 m/s, 19.5° above the horizontal, and that a 3.01 g Confederate ball was moving to the left at a speed of 280 m/s, 15.5° above the horizontal. Immediately after they fuse together, what is their velocity?in m/s i + m/s j form.I'm not sure how to do this problem. I know I have to split them into components but I'm really lost on this.
- Since we have an inelastic collision the kinetic energy is not conserved. The momentum is conserved: m1V1 - m2V2 (m1 + m2)V V [m1V1 - m2V2]/[m1 + m2] A momentum is a vector quantity since it contains velocity in its product. Splinting in two components we have For x-axis or i components Vx [m1V1cos(19.5) - m2V2cos(15.5)]/[m1 + m2] And for for y-axis or j components Vy [m1V1sin(19.5) + m2V2sin(15.5)]/[m1 + m2] They are moving in the a positive direction in x, however they are moving in a positive direction in y. Hmm. I did not know that confederates used a much lighter round. Perhaps this is why I'm saying notin!
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FD2.1-200-8 Wind Generator of Different Sizes
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT or LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
- -
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
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