Temperature Fuse

Ref Price:

Loading Port:: China Main Port

Payment Terms:: TT or LC

Min Order Qty:: 5000 Pieces pc

Supply Capability:: 300000 Pieces per Day pc/month

Inquire Now

Add to My Favorites

OKorder Service Pledge

Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery

OKorder Financial Service

Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing

You Might Also Like

Thermal Cutoff with Ceramic Housing

Electro Ceramics Made of Steatite

Ceramic Components for Resistors

Components for Household Appliances

Ceramic Bobbin Heater with Coil

High-voltage Current Limit Fuse for Engine Protection

DD862 type single-phase meters

JSS96 Digital-display Timing Relay

1.Thermal Fuse high current capacity.
2.Sensitive to ambient temperature.
3.Single operation over-temperature protection

Temperature Fuse:
1.Rated Current:10A&15A (AC)
2.Rated Volt:125V&250V (AC)
3.Rated Temperature:73-240C
4.Color:Silver

Using scope:

Suitable for refrigerator elec. , oven boiling pot , iron etc business machines of household appliances.

Q: I was recently mudding and was stuck for quite a bit of time in mud up to my foot brake. When I went in my electric start odometer ect all worked. It even worked for a while in the mud then suddenly quit. I pulled it out and it will pull start and run fine but the 4x4 and all electrical components seems dead. I've checked the battery and it's good. I'm assuming it's a fuse or short ? But idk where to start. Thanks for all your help. Quick recap runs fine pull starts first pull but absolutely nothing electrical is working 4x4 selector lights starter nothing.: Push up on the switch on the left handle bar. It is also the kill switch if you move it left or right. When it is in the center position it will push up as well to start the engine.

Q: I have a 1996 Ford Contour sedan. The tail lights, and the dash lights have gone out. The head lights, high beams, turn signals, break lights, everything else is working fine. The last time this happened, I replaced the headlight switch and that fixed it. But this time, I replaced the headlight switch again, and it still doesn't work. I checked all the fuses in the box under the steering wheel, and all of them are fine. Any guesses as to what else could be causing the problem?: See Ford Contour Recall # 8779. If you have NO blown fuses, your problem is almost certainly the light switch.

Q: I posted yesterday about my TV. Now mind you I'm not an educated electrician but I'm no amatuer either. I have repaired our microwave, dryer, dishwasher to name a few. So I took our not working TV apart yesterday and found a blown fuse. Is there only one fuse to replace by the way? We live in a small town with no stores, so I decided to take a fuse out of one of our other TV's. It said it was a 125/ 4A just like the other one. I got it put in, put the TV back together, plugged it in and POP. There was a big pop, small spark at outlet. What did I do wrong? Shouldn't the fuse have been the same? Any suggestions or idea's. My friend is taking the old fuse to the store to get a new one, should I try this again or will it make more problems? Thanks Everyone for reading.: I think this is one of the biggest mistakes that most people with some knowledge make. Televisions are very complicated and sensitive electronics. If you do not have any training you SHOULD NOT FOR ANY REASON TRY AND REPAIR ONE YOURSELF. Instead of having a dead fuse, you might have just ruined your tv. You might have had a static discharge which in turn might have fried your TV all together. Not to mention the amount of voltage that runs through your tv. It probably couldn't have killed you, but you could have gotten a very bad electric schock. PLEASE do yourself a favor and just take it to a shop next time, might spend more money, but at least you're not putting your health at risk!

Q: I have a (optimus stereo amplifier mpa 250) Every time I turn it on the fuse blows, I have it connected with the right stuff so I am not over ridding it. I disconnected everything from the amp and it still blows the fuse every time I turn it on. Not sure if I miss connected something when I dis-wired it again. Please guide me with this issue, I've been threw Two fuse bags and can't afford to go threw more. Should I get it checked by a professional or what? Please help out someone. Thanks.: That fuse collection is saving your amp. You've got a short circuit in it somewhere. Needs checking out. Take the cover off and look for burn marks in the mains-in part and on the circuit boards. You might have a burnt-out resister or capacitor somewhere or a badly screwed up transister especially in the output stage. Power transisters can get hot. They have heat sinks they get bolted to and heat paste to make a good junction so the heat gets transfered better, Check the wires all round for molten or burnt insulation. Sometimes it's just dust that builds up inside that causes the problem especially in vintage amps that may have running twenty years without a clean out. Sometimes it's insects that get burned to a cinder and form a carbon bridge between components. Carbon is a good conductor and then you get a short circuit. Make sure the plug is out of the wall socket and give the amp a brush out with a vacuum cleaner nozzle held close to the brush. A 1-2 inch house painting brush works fine.

Q: a motor, a generator, a battery, or a fuse?: Generator. Uses fuel that burns and create motion of a machine called a Prime Mover. The Prime Mover then drives a coil inside a generator.The coil cuts through Magnetic lines of forces around another coil.This induces a voltage on the coil as it rotates on the shaft of the prime mover. This voltage forms the electrical energy that is taken from the generator. This all depends on the size generator. may be too much for you based on the question, but hope it works!

Q: I found a 2x12 Line Six Spider III amp for sale, the vendor claims that it can be fixed by installing fuses. Does this mean that the current fuses are blown, or that it never came with fuses? In the former case, how would I be able to tell if the fuses are blown, or if it only needs new fuses and there's not some other underlying issue?: If the amp works there is not any reason to change the fuse. merely placed the previous one lower back in. The time to alter a fuse is whilst it blows. using the incorrect type of fuse ought to enable your amp to be broken interior the form of a ability surge, and/or ought to create an electric probability. do no longer attempt to artwork on something interior the amp. Amps are risky. some varieties are even risky whilst unplugged. Fuses do no longer influence the tone; sounds like placebo result (on you, no longer the amp).

Q: I needs to locate it in order to change the fuse to work the heated seats and i am having a hard time locating it. I have read the user manual by the way and its very unclear to where it actually is!: This was not the case on my 99 Couger. Fords Hidden central fusebox and this is applicable to many models and not just the Couger. After much googling I located the whereabouts of the Central fuse box,its not easy even when you know where its supposed to be? I posted this on another forum The central fuse box is located under the glove box,you need to take down the foot well trim.Its not easy to see use a torch there is a small button which you pull to lower the fusebox then you can pull the fusebox towards you to access the fuses.There seems to be lots of people with this problem and seems to be a stupid place to hide a fusebox and seems designed to drag you into a main dealer for a petty fault.My own fault was a central locking boot release problem a simple case of replacing the 20 amp fuse and freeing off the boot release key barrel with WD 40 at least ?200 @ your friendly dealer.

Q: i have checked several components and it doesn't start: Your no start condition could be any of a number of things. First, I will assume it is cranking but not starting. If you are seeing any kind of white smoke while it cranks, you are getting fuel to the cylinders. So air in the system or low fuel should not be the problem. If you are cranking and getting NO SMOKE and NO START, you probably are not getting fuel. Check your fuel filters for clogs or gel. Other things to check: 1.Check your battery connections for corrosion. Also check each battery's voltage. You should have two batteries. If even one of them is low or has a bad cell, it can cause a failure to start. This is because glow plugs (thos things that heat the cylinders so the fuel can burn) us ALOT of voltage. If they don't get the full voltage, she probably wont start. If the battteries are good, you may have a bad glow plug relay or bad glow plugs. Finally, if all this fails find a OBDII scanner and check for codes. Perhaps you'll find your answer there.

Q: Compare the energy given off per gram of reactant for each of these processes:(A) deuterium (2.01355) fuses with a hydrogen nucleus (1.00728) to produce helium-3 (3.01550)(B) two helium-3 (3.01550) atoms combine to form an alpha particle (4.00150) and two protons (1.00728).I'm not really sure how to go about doing this, I know you are supposed to use the formula emc^2 but I really dont know from there. And i found these answers but idk if they are right and i cant get them. a) E 1.59 x 108 kJ b) E 1.34 x 109 kJ Please explain: The mass you use in Emc^2 is the difference in mass between the fused atom and it's components. For example in (A) your mass (that is converted to energy) is 3.01550 - (2.01355+1.00728) 0 If you want to know why then look up mass defect

Q: Hi, I'm installing a cutoff switch in my car. The fuse I want to use is 30amps. I'm unable to locate a 30 amp preferably a rocker style but a toggle switch will due.2 questions Am I correct in assuming I need a 30amp switch? Where can I find one.The boys amp; a few other stores including radio shack doesn't have them Thanks: Agree, okorder

We regard "good customer service, good business reputation and good quality control" as our service faith. Under the enterprise spirit of "honestly cooperation and continual innovation", we will continually improve products and services. You are welcome to join us!

1. Manufacturer Overview

Location	Guangdong,China (Mainland)
Year Established	2003
Annual Output Value
Main Markets	North America; Eastern Europe; Southeast Asia; Mid East; Western Europe;
Company Certifications	ISO 9001:2000

2. Manufacturer Certificates

a) Certification Name
Range
Reference
Validity Period

3. Manufacturer Capability

a) Trade Capacity
Nearest Port
Export Percentage	51% - 60%
No.of Employees in Trade Department
Language Spoken:
b) Factory Information
Factory Size:
No. of Production Lines
Contract Manufacturing
Product Price Range