Temperature Fuse

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1.Thermal Fuse high current capacity.
2.Sensitive to ambient temperature.
3.Single operation over-temperature protection

Temperature Fuse:
1.Rated Current:10A&15A (AC)
2.Rated Volt:125V&250V (AC)
3.Rated Temperature:73-240C
4.Color:Silver

Using scope:

Suitable for refrigerator elec. , oven boiling pot , iron etc business machines of household appliances.

Q: I just picked up my 1996 Jeep Cherokee from the shop. My mechanic fixed the ignition and a couple of other things, but now the power windows, blinkers, A/C and heat won't work. I checked the fuses, but they all appear to be fine. I'm gonna contact the guy tomorrow, but I just thought someone might have some insight. Thanks.: ifm you had a good amp metter what you would do is put in on to read amps and pull one fuse at a time when you come to a fuse that doesnt cange the amp draw when you pull it there some thing wrong with that circuit but you dont have that do you

Q: I have a 2003 Chrysler Sebring. When I first bought it, six months ago I replaced the fuse that powers the radio, trunk button, unlock/lock button, and rear view mirror light. I replaced it every two months but lately Ive had to replace it every other day! I have no clue whats going on or what I should do. Please help!: There's a reason that it's blowing. It's most likely a short or fault somewhere in the wiring system. Take it to AutoZone and have them check it out for free.

Q: I have a component cable with an end for a ps3, xbox 360 and wii. If I plug a xbox 360 and ps3 into it and then plug it into my tv will something bad happen if I have both my xbox and ps3 on? Or will this even work at all.: I wouldn't try it - you won't blow up the whole block or even your whole house (worst that would happen to the house is a blown fuse or circuit breaker), but you could ruin either the PS3 or the Xbox 360 or both. I doubt it would hurt the TV, but I wouldn't try it anyway - why risk it? There's no reason to leave them all plugged in and turned on anyway - it surely wouldn't work, as the TV would not know which set of signals to display - the mix would be impossible for the TV to display even if no damage were done. Certainly don't power both units on at once, and I'd even keep only one device plugged in at a time just to be safe in case I forgot and did power up both devices at once just to be safe.

Q: I looked inside the tv and there in no burn marks or components. What would cause the fuse to blow out. Can anyone help me?: Sounds to me such as you have a fault on your place wiring, in all probability in simple terms on your workstation room. Swapped impartial and earth might reason important issues of kit as quite some modern passes with the aid of the earth connections that would then fail. in case you have not have been given any know-how in this section, get an electrician in to analyze the sockets. it is straightforward for him to analyze with the splendid kit.

Q: I just purchased an corsair 750W power supply, and the input is mentioned as 90-264V 10A, Now on the plug that connects to wall socket to power it says 13A 250V (UK Pin) Now i am using it in asia, using an simple adapter but inorder to plug other things like speakers and screen i am buying an surge protector (spike guard).Now at what Amp shall i buy spike guard ? Rated 15A or 10A - As this is what available in my country. PS: The fuse power on the inbuilt fuse on the power plug is 13A. Also inform if i buy a 15A Spike guard and the usage say is only 10A is their a con like, smoking the pc components incase of sum overcurrent?: Buy a surge protector that can handle more current draw than you expect to use. The surge protector limits the voltage from the line, in the event of a lightning strike nearby. If you have a faulty load (computer?) that tries to draw too much current, the fuse in your computer (plug) should pop. If the load says 10A, and the surge protector delivers 10A max, you've got no room to add another peripheral.

Q: I have an old Lennox unit. The AC still runs fine. Heater quit on me back in March. not sure if the elements or what. winter coming soon and need to get this up and running again: find out what kw the heat strip is. there should only be about four screws holding it in and a plug for the wiring. not hard to replace if you can buy one.

Q: All other components of the car, lights, ac, signals, all work. It is just the fuse that keeps blowing. I replace it, and when I try to start the car, it blows.: starter relay is shorted.

Q: i replaced the old fuse after it blew and it keeps blowing when i plug it in. it calls for a 5A 125V 5mm X 20mm fuse could i replace it with a higher rated fuse? like a 6A or something, why do the new fuses keep blowing?: you have a short or a messed up ground

Q: I have a 1992 ford f150 and it keeps blowing the fuse that controls the interior lights, the radio, the gauge lights, and the speedometer. Now don't say the speedometer hooks in with a cable because it doesn't. It's a clip of wires that plug into it. Anyway I have taken apart the entire dashboard and tested for grounds and everything is getting ground and I even found where it grounds on the body. Sometimes the fuse pops as soon as u put it in and sometimes it takes ten minutes. I looked at all the wires and nothing seems to be broken or chafed or crossed. It will pop even when the radio and gauge cluster is unplugged and I have wiring diagrams and the wires run through the light switch and even of that's unplugged the fuse pops. I am getting fed up with this thing. Been tryin to figure it out for an entire day and got nowhere. Help is very much appreciated: My first thought would be that you don't have a high enough rated fuse plugged in. I know they're color-coded AND stamped with the amp ratingbut are you sure it's the right one? Have you gone up a size to see if that helps? If you have a short, going from a 10- to 15-amp fuse, for instance, won't really run the risk of damage—it'll still blow. If you're confident about the rating or going up a notch doesn't help, you might have to disconnect everything on that circuit and plug the components in one-at-a-time until you find what blows the fuse. Once you have a suspect, pop in a new fuse and plug in just that one thing. If it blows again with nothing else on, you know where your problem is. Good luck!

Q: During the battle of Gettysburg, the gunfire was so intense that several bullets collided in mid-air and fused together. Assume a 5.07 g Union musket ball was moving to the right at a speed of 243 m/s, 19.5° above the horizontal, and that a 3.01 g Confederate ball was moving to the left at a speed of 280 m/s, 15.5° above the horizontal. Immediately after they fuse together, what is their velocity?in m/s i + m/s j form.I'm not sure how to do this problem. I know I have to split them into components but I'm really lost on this.: Since we have an inelastic collision the kinetic energy is not conserved. The momentum is conserved: m1V1 - m2V2 (m1 + m2)V V [m1V1 - m2V2]/[m1 + m2] A momentum is a vector quantity since it contains velocity in its product. Splinting in two components we have For x-axis or i components Vx [m1V1cos(19.5) - m2V2cos(15.5)]/[m1 + m2] And for for y-axis or j components Vy [m1V1sin(19.5) + m2V2sin(15.5)]/[m1 + m2] They are moving in the a positive direction in x, however they are moving in a positive direction in y. Hmm. I did not know that confederates used a much lighter round. Perhaps this is why I'm saying notin!

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Location	Guangdong,China (Mainland)
Year Established	2003
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Main Markets	North America; Eastern Europe; Southeast Asia; Mid East; Western Europe;
Company Certifications	ISO 9001:2000

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