FD5.0-3000-16 Wind Generator
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT or LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
- -
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
You Might Also Like
1. Product Description:
The products are used in areas that benefit from good wind regimes but have little or no electrical grid connection such as; islands, desert and low inhabitation areas.
Applications also include on or off grid national electrified fencing systems.The utilization of wind energy at no on-going cost significantly reduces the environmental impact of fossil fuel usage whilst saving vital energy resources.
2. Product Characteristic:
The products combine unique and innovative design with high reliability. The innovative design has been awarded both Invention and Practical new patents by the State Intellectual Key design features such as very low rotation speed result in increased efficiency in comparison to other small turbine systems.
3.Specification：
Type: FD5.O-3000-16
Rotor Diameter: 5.0 m
Start-up Wind Speed: 2.5 m/s (5.6 mph)
Cut-in Wind Speed: 3 m/s (6.7 mph)
Rated Wind Speed: 10m/s (22.4mph)
Rated Power: 3000 Watts
Maximum Power: ~ 4000 Watts
Cut-Out Wind Speed: 15m/s(33.5mph)
Timing manner: automatically adjust the windward angle
Temperature Range: -40 to +60 Deg. C (-40 to +140 Deg. F)
4. Reference Picture:
- Q: I recently bought an old 2002 Hyundai Elantra, and it runs ok, except it won't start nearly every morning. My mechanic told me the battery's most likely going. The only reason I'm thinking it's something else is because every morning when I go to start the car, there's a loud, intermittent noise coming from the fuse box; it's like a loud grinding/electrical noise that only lasts about a second at a time, but continually comes back almost on perfect rhythm (think of your directional, same sort of rhythm). Sometimes the lights will flash on and off with the noise too. Could this be something other than a bad battery? Or is it possible that these symptoms suggest a more electrical problem? Any help is greatly appreciated!
- From your description, I understand that indeed there is an electrical problem. I would start with what is called wiggle test. While engine is running, try gently to wiggle the fuse box back and forward. Should you find any abnormalities in engine running or engine stalls or anything that shouldn't be doing out of the ordinary, you can say that the fuse box is your problem. If all good, secondly I would remove the fuse box and do a pin test on all fuse box connectors from under the box (wiring harness that plugs into fuse box). This will tell you if any male connector is loose. Should you have any loose connectors, just close them up a tiny bid so that they wont move. Before you put the box back, apply some electrical stabilant to ensure proper conductivity on all electrical components. This procedure could be time consuming but is well worth it to try. Finally, before you do all these actions please, have someone doing an AVR test to ensure your battery is good and entire charging/starting system is normal. Hope this will help you.
- Q: i thght my car was flooded but then i checked the fuses and saw the fuel pump fuse was blown but when i replaced itlt; that one blew rite away!
- You need to trace the wire begining at the pump you have a short . a bad pump will not blow the fuse.
- Q: I know you can clean a car engine by hosing it down, but I've heard you can't drive your car for a while after? Maybe because if the water evaporates too fast it will cause complications? I don't know. Also, if you can hose the engine down, what parts of the engine must stay dry. I know the intake has to, and the battery.
- oven purifier will east up the coating of the wires. thats effective stuff, itll decrease via to oil on the wires and shop going! your engine became no longer made to shield concentrated corrosion like that. next time basically purchase the gunk engine purifier its like 4 dollars for quite an excellent can of the stuff!
- Q: Hi, I have a 1996 Cadillac Eldorado ETC with 180K miles. It has been running fine except for starting, it used to take a few cranks at times but other than that it was fine. My fuel pump seemed to have had failed and I replaced it with another but I still don't get any fuel pressure to the fuel rail. I have replaced the fuel filter, and a fuel pump relay located in the engine bay driver side fuse box. I have also installed an inline fuel pump and that get gas to the rails but it lack the high pressure required for EFI. My original fuel pump works now that I have tested it, so that was not the problem, it seems it might be an electrical issue since there seems to be no power getting to the in-tank fuel pump. My question.- Is there any other electrical components I need to look for and replace that control the power sent to the fuel pump? I cant afford to take it to any shop, or put it on a diagnostics system, I have to be able to bypass or rigg or fix myselfwhat do you think?
- Put a voltmeter or test lamp between the pump power connection and ground. Switch on the ignition, and see whether the voltage is there. If not, and you reckon the fuse and relay are definitely OK, you have a problem with the power wire or connections, or the earthing of the pump. If the voltage IS there, your pump is stuck or burned out or bad earth.
- Q: I have a 400w/1000w dc to ac power inverter. Every time I power it on, the 40A fuse blows even with no load. I tried a direct connection to the battery and it still blows. If anyone has an idea how to fix this please tell me.400w continuous 1000w peakinput: 12vdcoutput: 110vac@60hz
- This would mean it has a short on its input or output side of the circuit card. You could open it up and see if you see any burnt components, and replace those to see if it works.
- Q: 96 Isuzu rodeo. The fuse for the blower shorted out last winter and now the blower only comes on full blast (heat or a/c, doesn't matter). Also, whenever the temp drops below 5 degrees the fuse for the blower shorts and I have to replace it. How do I get the blower to work at lower levels? Do I replace the blower itself, or is there another electrical component I'm forgetting to check?
- You might need to replace the switch or the resistors.
- Q: 1. What are the most common electronic components I would need to understand to be able to develop circuits and invent innovative electronic products? I know theres a resistor, capacitor, transformer etc.2. What are the functions of each one of them?
- Resistors okorder
- Q: 01.Transformer 02.Rectifier03.Voltageeregulatorr 04.Filter**BASICCOMPONENTSS ONLY (NOT MORE THAN 15)
- you opt for a voltage regulator, amperage concerns much less subsequently. I make uncomplicated circuits and for all people I upload a voltage regulator. considering which you're working at a extra physically powerful voltage, you're above my sort (i take advantage of 6v and below). in spite of the incontrovertible fact that, maximum high quality voltage regulators comprise geared up in cutting-edge and voltage secure practices. A voltage regulator additionally will modify the present to a particular output. verify the link below, 5 amps max (thats solid on your case). The voltage is likewise in the skill, dont be perplexed by way of the information sheet. that's unquestionably fairly user-friendly. You DO choose a multi-meter to purpose the outputs in basic terms incase. yet that would desire to do it for you guy. i'm unfamiliar with the kind of regulator I appropriate in spite of the incontrovertible fact that it is going to tolerate warmth effective judging by way of its layout and schematics, not a low priced little 1cm x1cm element. this might set you back approximately 5-12 greenbacks. based the place you purchase it, choose a soldering iron and additionally the multi meter. something with DC, i like to characteristic a diode for a circuit, stops cutting-edge/voltage from going the incorrect way. Your capacity supply might have it regular although. Edit: in spite of if that's RATED for 10 amps, it does not advise that it is going to likely be 10 amps, relies upon on the draw. Thats all it may produce. Odds are you have a low priced duel factor fuse in there. it is going to hold a solid 12 amps for 15-20 min. Volts will burn out circuits quicker than amps (yours is possibly rated for 600v), so verify that score first. As an electrician, we continuously verify volts first. OCPD (overcurrent secure practices gadget) will cease any injury. You DO choose a regulator although, to guard your amp. Edit back: Jumbilia kinda reaffirmed it. Love electric engineers!
- Q: . since then my battery won't hold a charge overnight . the battery's fine, altenator's fine , and starter are fine . personally I was told it could be a fuse or something electrical ?? It run's fine once it's jumped and hold's the charge during the day while i'm using it but something is drawing it over night any suggestion's please ??
- you can test for a parasitic draw by using a digital multi meter $20-30 from autozone the booklet that comes with the meter will show you how to set it up to test amps! disconnect the negative batt cable touch one lead to the neg post on batt and the other one to the neg cable watch the reading it gives while having a friend pull one fuse at a time. normal draw is .3 to .5 amps (pcm memory) when the reading drops off the component that fuse powers is draining your batt!
- Q: I have a 30amp fuse that operates my door locks and power seats. I carry around a box of them because sometimes the fuse will last a couple of weeks, or days or hours. Any ideas of an easy fix?
- Either you have an intermittent short to ground in the wiring or something on the circuit (motor, for example) is adding resistance and subsequently pulling excessive current because it is binding/starting to fail etc. and causing the circuit to overload and the fuse to pop. Is there anything else on the circuit that you know of? Do the power seats move smoothly and consistently on the tracks? Some cars have several motors that control the power seats so it can get complicated if one of them is the culprit. If it is not in the wiring and a component is causing it it sometimes it is easier to wait for the problematic component to take a sh*t and then just replace it. That's about the best that I can say over a computer. Good luck!
Send your message to us
FD5.0-3000-16 Wind Generator
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT or LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
- -
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
Similar products
Hot products
Hot Searches
Related keywords
