• JJW Series Precision Purified AC Voltage Stabilizer System 1
  • JJW Series Precision Purified AC Voltage Stabilizer System 2
JJW Series Precision Purified AC Voltage Stabilizer

JJW Series Precision Purified AC Voltage Stabilizer

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1. Product Description:

Adopted advanced sine energy distributing technology, thee main circuit is constructed by paralleling the sine energy distributor and the high power filter. When the output voltage Uo is changed because of the undulation of the supply voltage or the load, it control the SCR elements angle through sampling circuit, comparer and trigger unit to change the current which lead to the variety of the compensating voltage ΔU and the phase, and reach to the target of stable output voltage.

 

 2. Product Characteristic:

It has excellent regulation and anti-interference function with digital display; the regulation accuracy reaches to ±1% and the response time<0.1s, it can restrain the peak interference of electric network effectively, efficiency of this machine>90%.

These equipments and facilities that has higher requirement for the electricity quality as computerprecision instrumentcopierinspection devicecommunication broadcasting deviceauto control system and so on.

 

3.Specification

a. Wide regulation range: single-phase185V255Vthree-phase320V440V

b. High regulation accuracy: <±1%

c. Strong anti-interference ability: can restrain various noises and peak voltage in the electric network;

d. Short response time: <0.1s

e. High efficiency: >90%

 

4. Reference Picture:

Q: I changed the bulb cause it was blown, checked the fuse but nothing. Is there another fuse or a seperate fuse for each reverse light. And where can i find a new board?
if it is a manual trans, check the wires that plug into the reverse light switch, located on the trans just above the starter, they tend to break since the harness is pulled pretty tight
Q: I have a video mixer here which the power plug says 12v 300mA and i have a power supply which is 12v 1700mA. Will i be able to use this power supply or will it blow the video mixer up? Thanks
The current is fine. 1700 mA 300 mA. I assume it is a wall wart you are using, and you want to use a wall wart that didn't come with the product. Check another two things: 1) AC or DC output? If the video mixer says DC you have to provide that. 2) Plug polarity. Some plug jacks are +ve on the inside, others on the outside. Make sure you have it right. It *probably* won't kill the mixer to flip the polarity, but it may not work.
Q: changed battery, changed alternator, about a month later, same problem,, the battery is a maintence free sealed one, the alternator new, what else could it be,, it smells like sulfur again
What is added to your electrical system to cause this? Look for added Equipment. And disconnect or have the radio place install the COMPONENTS correctly, not to a electrical supply to the Fuse box. What is added to the electrical System? Which is not factory installed? Look for tape, cover-ups, around battery, and under the Dash modifications, and all ad ons. Change of wire colors, connectors, non factory wiring. Is the first start I would look for. Use Factory Alternator, after these have been Viewed and re-checked, and can use a reliabale Component.
Q: I had the fuse break on a Joker 200 light, but I don't know what could cause a surge of electricity (no lightning storm at the time). If it matters, it could have been on the same line as a coffee maker/toaster/microwave. Please help me out. Thanks!
The main component in the ballast is a large inductor, and if a turn gets shorted, it will draw high current. Suspect the ballast. Also, with a coffee maker and a microwave, the total current could be too high for the circuit breaker.
Q: Hi my first visitI have been having problems with battery drains lately. Overnight the voltage of my car battery drops from 12.4 to 11.8 and if I leave it more than 3 days it will not start (11.5 to 11.2). On idle and load it is near 14.2. So I feel alternator is charging well.I am about to start pulling fuses to locate drain but was wondering if an alternator that is starting to die (but will still charge) can cause battery drain. Can the diodes in alternators draw current from the battery?Thanks
Alternator Draining Battery
Q: i recently got my battery replaced because it wasnt holding charge. when it came out of the shop, the clock, power mirrors, and floodlights arent running. everything else seems fine, and i checked the fuses, all are intact. There were no problems with those 3 components before the battery was replaced. Any Ideas to fix this? thanks
Did you check the fuse block in the engine compartment. There may be a fuse or relay there that is bad. There may be a spare relay in the box. If this fails, I would go back to the shop and explain it to them. They may have disconnected something and didn't get it hooked back up. Hope this helps and good luck
Q: Every morning when I get up, the battery is low. The battery is tested, good. Alternator is tested, and good. Something is shorting causing battery to slowly drain, and I'm about to start pulling fuses over night to get it narrowed down to single circuit if possible.
You test at the fuses with a multie meter or cheap test light, just remove each fuse and test across,one at a time,the one that is drawing small amount of power will show up, you dont disconnect anything before testing, and remember all doors should be closed before testing and ingnition key off. i had a short on one car i owned and it was the cygarette lighter,i just cut that wire at that fuse,as i never ever used it,and i never ever tryed to findout the cause. battery was fine from then on.
Q: Can all the components plug in to 1 output( 6V DC)? Will the current drop? What is the best way to distribute in order to maintain no current drop.
This depends on the current demand of your components and the capacity of your power supply. If each of your components draws 1 Amp and the supply is only rated for 10 Amps, something is likely to heat up in the power supply.
Q: A couple of years ago I installed after market speakers in the rear of my car and kept the stock speakers in the front. I connected an amp to the rear speakers. It was working fine but one day I drive my car and notice only the front speakers (the stock ones) are playing. I pop open the hood and notice the amp wire was disconnected from the fuse going into the battery. I reconnect them and turn on the stereo but still there is no sound to the rear speakers. I can hear the tweeters I have make a fuzzing noise, though. Anyone have any ideas on what the problem is?
I suppose it's possible that when the amp was disconnected from the fuse it blew it out or something like that. If you can reconnect the back speakers to the stock amp and they sound OK you know that the problem is with the amp, not the speakers. Also try just putting a new fuse in the amp (they usually come with an extra fuse.)
Q: 1997 Chrysler Sebring w/2.5L V6.Customer complaint: Blows 20A ASD fuse - sometimes twice in one day, other times runs fine for more than a week.I can duplicate the problem about every 4-5 minutes. I have installed an amp meter in the ASD fuse socket - when I jerk the throttle open the meter will pin to 40+ amps (very intermittant. It might take several times to duplicate.) It quickly returns to the normal 3-5 amp draw - often quickly enough that it doesn't even trip a 20A circuit breaker in series with the amp meter (but instantly blows the fuse if it is inserted)Unfortunately, more often than not, the circuit breaker will trip.I am at my wits end on this one. I have checked and rechecked the wiring and components associated with the ASD relay feeds. Obviously - I'm missing the problem!Any tips would be greatly appreciated - Thanks.
Deja Vu with this question. The ASD (Automatic Shut Down) relay receives inputs from the engine (crank position sensor and/or distributor and others) and shuts down the ignition and fuel pump if it receives no electrical pulses from the ignition that tells is the engine is running. Basically, if your engine isn't running, it figures out that gas should not be delivered, and it shuts down flow of fuel. I suspect your fuel pump is dying. Under hard acceleration, it would work harder. If it's worn, it's drawing more amperage, which is what would be blowing the fuse. Another more remote possibility is the ASD relay itself, which is in the Power Distribution Center (PDC) under the hood. When the fuse is blown, can the owner hear the fuel pump energize for a few seconds? If you can find a wiring diagram, I am willing to bet it will point to the fuel pump.

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