• JJW Series Precision Purified AC Voltage Stabilizer System 1
  • JJW Series Precision Purified AC Voltage Stabilizer System 2
JJW Series Precision Purified AC Voltage Stabilizer

JJW Series Precision Purified AC Voltage Stabilizer

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1. Product Description:

Adopted advanced sine energy distributing technology, thee main circuit is constructed by paralleling the sine energy distributor and the high power filter. When the output voltage Uo is changed because of the undulation of the supply voltage or the load, it control the SCR elements angle through sampling circuit, comparer and trigger unit to change the current which lead to the variety of the compensating voltage ΔU and the phase, and reach to the target of stable output voltage.

 

 2. Product Characteristic:

It has excellent regulation and anti-interference function with digital display; the regulation accuracy reaches to ±1% and the response time<0.1s, it can restrain the peak interference of electric network effectively, efficiency of this machine>90%.

These equipments and facilities that has higher requirement for the electricity quality as computerprecision instrumentcopierinspection devicecommunication broadcasting deviceauto control system and so on.

 

3.Specification

a. Wide regulation range: single-phase185V255Vthree-phase320V440V

b. High regulation accuracy: <±1%

c. Strong anti-interference ability: can restrain various noises and peak voltage in the electric network;

d. Short response time: <0.1s

e. High efficiency: >90%

 

4. Reference Picture:

Q: I also checked the fuses but still no power to the fuel pump and ideas what it might be?
did you check the pump before fitting it, if not get some cable and go from battery to relay and see if the pump runs,if not check by placing temporary wires from pump relay to the pump and trying Again,if still not working temp cable from battery to pump relay then from pump relay to the pump if it works its a short circuit in the cars wiring loom,if it doesn't work then its the relay or pump, if you checked the pump earlier then its the relay at fault,also check the earths (grounding cables) if these are loose of broken then no return means no power,,just to be sure try a fuse that's working another component,of the same rating,in other words just swop the fuses over if they are same rating, and try again,hope this helps and be careful fuel pumps and fuel and sparks can cause fires
Q: I have a carpc, and it works fine usually, and today I decided to clean up the wires a little well anyways long story short, I shorted something out, and the computer shut off I checked all of my car fuses, and fixed one that was blown, and tried it agian, but nothing would happen I took the computer inside, and plugged it into my desktop's power supply, (4 pin, and mobo cable) and the green light showed up, but when I hook up a switch to the front panel connector, nothing happens. no fan spin or anything ram is seated correctly etc, and i don't think its a mobo fuse because the mobo light is green need some help here will award 10 points to someone who knows what they are talking about, not someone who just wants a quick 2 points.
You probably permanently damaged a component in your device which is why the fuse blew, but not fast enough to save it from damage.
Q: Any place I can find a fuse schematic for a 2005 Honda Met 2? My daughter crashed hers and ,as I was cleaning it up looking for damage, I found a fuse loose inside her radiator and I see an empty slot in the fuse box by the battery (which could be normal - I don't know). I'm guessing it'scondition that it has been there for sometime, but there is no way for me to be certain and I also want to ensure all the electrical components work as they should.She bought it used so she has no manual. Is there somewhere I can find out which types/sizes of fuses belong in each slot without buying a $50 manual? I've never had a problem getting this info on a car, but can't find it for a scooter.
The honda dealer parts dept can look up schematic 4 - you
Q: Hey guys thanks for looking, ok basically i bought a pug 306 td the other day but the guy i bought it off went to jump start it as is had a flat battery after standing for 2 months, he connected the terminals wrong on the jump leads, which he thinks blew the aalternatorand the batterie, i however think that the batterie will be fried but surely there will be a fuse somewhere to stop the aalternatorand all the other electrics being fried?? do you think i am right? and if i am right do you know where and how big that fuse is?Thanks people 10points for best answer!
Most of the time Diesels have a box on the top of the battery which has 3 - 5 fuses in. These are the fuses that Deal with the charging voltage and protect the electrical part of the engine. Look at these and check they are ok. Then try to start the car with a new (Borrow same size battery, or buy one) and look to see if the battery light stays on if not, then that alternator should be ok.
Q: component in the product functioning or not. true or false?
You are attempting to characterize interdependence. Logically, something is independent if it has no dependency on any other component in the product functioning AND SEPARATELY no other component in the product can cause it to function or not. You describe the first component, but not the second. Example - An IPOD plugged into the cigarette lighter of the car (and pretend that it has no internal batteries). There is nothing that can be entered into the ipod that will change how the car works (car is the potentially independent component), however, if the car fuse blows, the IPOD turns off. This certainly violates the hypothesis that the car is independent.
Q: I need help figuring out why my off road lights are not working. They were working about a week ago and now they don't work. I have the power wire connected to the battery to a toggle switch. The power wire has a fuse on it but if the fuse was blown the light wouldn't go on on the toggle switch right? Then I have the toggle switch grounded. Then I have the white wire going to the off road lights which are LED and have all of the lights grounded and have regrounded them twice since the first time they were not working that was the problem. I even tried a different toggle switch but that didn't fix the problem. The only thing I can think of is the fuse is blown on the power wire but like I said the light on the toggle switch wouldn't light up right? Please help me figure this out!!!
Off Road Light Wiring
Q: A friend of mine has left town for a week, so another friend and I decided to install air horns in his car as a Christmas present/practical joke. We wired the horns to his existing horn button and it seemed to have worked for a short time. Then it stopped. We assume the problem is a blown fuse and we're going back in to check/work on it more soon. My question is what should be done after replacing the fuse to assure no further failure? Obviously the horns are drawing too much power, but will any electrical components solve the issue? Possibly a higher gauge wire?
You'd have to wire the switch to a relay, which in turn would power the air horn. The wiring between the battery, the relay, and the horn would have to be a lower-gauge-number (i.e., thicker) wire and would have to be protected by a suitable fuse or breaker.
Q: I'm adding fuses and a relay for a 10 HP motor on 480v. I figure that it draws about 15-20 amps under load but that does that account for the start up in rush current? Should I be using a 50-60 breaker/fuses? If I'm using fuses, I assume that I would need to divide the amps by phases. ie 60 amps total and 3 phases 3, 20 amp fuses?
To amplify Rouse's statements, if you are wiring according the National Electrical Code (NEC), then for a standard design B induction motor, you must provide running overload protection at no more than 115% of the nameplate full-load amps for motors with a service factor less than 1.15, or no more than 125% for service factor 1.15. Normally this requirement is met by the overload relay build into a starter. You also must provide protection against short circuits. To that end, you may use fuses or breakers, rated up to 175% or 250%, respectively, to protect the circuit that supplies power to the starter. The wiring from those fuses or breaker to the starter need only be sized at 125% of the nominal (NEC) current rating for that motor. There is another option. You can use dual-element, time-delay (DETD) fuses to provide both running overload protection and short-circuit protection. You may then use an appropriately-rated contactor or other control device to start and stop the motor. The DETD fuses are sized based on the 115% requirement (or 125% requirement). They are a little more expensive than single-element fuses, but they might allow you to eliminate other expensive electrical control components. The above fuse and breaker values are maximum values. You may use lower-value ones to provide better protection where your motor doesn't run at full load and/or doesn't have a high inrush current. Regarding the DETD fuses, if your available short circuit current is sufficiently low, you may use time-delay fuses instead of dual-element time delay fuses. To make this determination, you have to know what the available fault current is, and what the ampere interrupting rating of the fuse is. If you don't know it (and it isn't straight-forward to figure out) then you should stick with DETD fuses to cover your bases.
Q: 2003 Ford Crown Victoria. Drove through some water last night and shortly after lost Power Steering, blower motor, A/C Heater. All of these things work fine after installing a single 15 amp fuse located in the car-by driver's feet. BUT then stops working after the fuse blows right away! What should I be looking for and where? Thanks
The water caused a short in one of the systems protected by the fuse. Your best case scenario is that drying the circuits will eliminate the problem. I suspect you will need to locate the short and replace some wiring. Start looking at each affected component and look for damaged insulation.
Q: I bought a 2003 1.4 Renault Megane for my first car and ended up doing 70 through a huge puddle and ruined my fuse box. I got a new fuse box from a 2004 1.6 Renault megane and put it in my car, but now the car feels like its not getting enough power to the engine, the electronic windows dont work as smoothly and also the window wipers wont go off. What is wrong with my car ?
would be a defective starter/ solinoid. If it became the alternator, the motor vehicle might initiate the warning lighting fixtures may well be on the sprint all the time and the 1st signes may well be as your utilizing alongside the radio wouold fade out, then the motor vehicle might decrease out and no capability in any respectthen you certainly wait and the battery might get better, and the motor vehicle might restart. yet might only run for a shorter distance. each nighttime you will possibly would desire to recharge the battery and interior the morning the motor vehicle might initiate first time every time. So i think of adjusting the alt became a waist of pennies. perhaps in case you may upload if the motor vehicle actuatly turns over once you place the substantial in and attempt to initiate it. or if each thing is ineffective?, whilst the engine wont initiate- does the radio paintings advantageous?. If it became a gasoline pump i might think of it would turn over and slutter to existence with what's interior the carb/injection gadget

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