• RXW0-35 RXW10-35 Outdoor high-voltage current limit fuse System 1
RXW0-35 RXW10-35 Outdoor high-voltage current limit fuse

RXW0-35 RXW10-35 Outdoor high-voltage current limit fuse

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Scope of application

These products can be used in outdoor system of AC 50Hz and rated voltage of 35kV to protect electric transformer and voltage mutual-inductor from overload and short circuit.


Main technical parmaeter


Q: i drive a 1997 buick lasabre and i just replaced the taillights. the brake lights light up, but the tail lights dont, whats wrong? im not a car mechanic so i could really use some help. the bulb is a double filament.
1] fuse 2] not plugged in, probably not the problem but did you put groceries or something big in the trunk and hit the cord ? - Some cars are double corded. 3] need a 1157R bulb. - $0.99 at auto zone. 4] dirty / corroded plug. On a 1997, this is not likely unless you have moisture getting in the trunk, but be sure to check it any way and add some white lithium gease to the end of the plug and the bulbs sockets. 5] stick A TEST LIGHT IN THE socket and fuse box to see if you have power to it. - This may never be necessary on such a new car, but if all else fails, it is something to check. 6] switch. Very unlikely. but you need to check the power to rhe swithch if the fuse bulb thing don't work out. Good luck.
Q: Hey all, I just bought a 1981 Subaru GL on Saturday--my first car, yay!Anyways the guy I bought it from said that the headlight fuse ocasionally blows out. Yep, its done it twice since I've had it.The first time I was driving and charging my phone in the cigarette lighter (maybe it can't handle everything at once?). Second time was two hours ago I went to start the car and the lights wouldn't come on.What's the underlying issue here? Fuses are cheap and easy to find but id rather fix it for good than having to buy a new set of fuses every couple if weeks.
Check your wiring harness. It can be shorting out if there is contact between two bare wires (rat damage) or a wire that is not grounded properly. Make sure nothing is stripped or bare, you should never be able to see through the plastic on wires. Make sure your battery is not corroded and grounded properly. Test light your harness to make sure the hots are hot and the nots are not. There is a lot of stuff on forums for wiring diagrams and such to make sure that no one pieced it together wrong or cut/spliced into something they shouldn't have. If your Lights are spliced with a higher voltage component the wires will get hotter than they were designed for and that will cause a fuse to burn out. Hope that helps. Follow the wires from the back of your headlight all the way to the firewall and make sure connection to battery is still good (will will likely have to pry apart that black slinky looking wire cover to make sure it's all good under the hood). Make sure to check for signs of pests!
Q: Hi my first visitI have been having problems with battery drains lately. Overnight the voltage of my car battery drops from 12.4 to 11.8 and if I leave it more than 3 days it will not start (11.5 to 11.2). On idle and load it is near 14.2. So I feel alternator is charging well.I am about to start pulling fuses to locate drain but was wondering if an alternator that is starting to die (but will still charge) can cause battery drain. Can the diodes in alternators draw current from the battery?Thanks
Alternator Draining Battery
Q: 120A FUSE RATING1500 watt rms3000 peak Top of the line Components Heat Management System Built in sub-sonic filter High Efficiency Mosfet Power Outputs Built in Low Pass CrossOver - adjustable at 12 dB per octave Bass Remote Control Illuminated Logo Class A/B frequency response: 20-28KHz (2) 60A Fuses THD: .05 % S/N Ratio: Greater than 95 dB Input voltage: 11 - 14.4 volts Adjustable Input sensitivity: .2 MV - 5V bass boost control @ 45 hz - 12 dB 1 ohm stable 1 x 3000 watts @ 1 ohm 1 x 1500 watts @ 2 ohms dimensions: 16.92 x 2 x 11.5 inches
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Q: Car blows fuse constantly that allows u to get it out of park.Changed fuse from 15amp to 20.lasted almost 2 weeks and now blowing the fuse againBrakes still work when this happens and they light up.Turn signals do not work when this happens
Some where in the circuit for the D range in you car is a short to ground weather it be right after the shifter all the way down to one of the solenoids in the transmission shift assembly? If you can find the short it'll fix right away? Have it scanned for trouble codes this might help find it? But major don't increase the fuse size this is extremely bad it will cause the wire the harness or the component it's attached to to receive vary high current this will cause the for mentioned things to burn and fail this could cause a 50-60$ repair to be at worst a 2-3000$ dollar reapir
Q: I have a power supply that reads 12 volts on the output but when I connect two 12V fans the voltage drops to about 4.5V. What electronic component do I need to replace? Is it a bad capacitor or transistor? Let me know if you need more information.
A diagram of the circuit would give the most information and allow for the best solution. Baring that, a general discussion may help but only a little. 1) All power supplies and circuits have impedance or resistance that is internal. There are no perfect wires, transformers, etc. This means that when you check the open circuit voltage (the voltage when there is no load attached to the power supply) it will read the highest voltage available. Normally when you connect a load, the power supply delivers a current to that load. The current flowing in the circuit will cause a voltage drop along the wires, transformers, coils, capacitors, etc. that causes the voltage at the load to be less than the supply voltage. (I am ignoring the effects of capacitors on a three phase power line here). This may be a small amount of voltage drop or a large amount depending on the size of your power supply and the amount of load current that must be supplied to the load. 2) The power supply must have the necessary capacity to drive the load. For instance you would not be able to use a 10 watt power supply and connect 100 watts of load to it. Based on the above, is the power supply big enough to drive the fans? Did it supply them previously without a problem? If the answer is yes, then there is a problem with the supply that needs to be repaired. The type of supply will make suggesting a repair solution very hard without the diagram or schematic. Look for a partially open circuit or poor connection first. Then look for a failed component. This will depend on the component (fuse, capacitor, transistor, IC, etc.). Wish this could have been better but I just do not have enough information. Hope this helps, Newton1Law What make model refrigerator do you have?
Q: i have a 150cc 4-stroke scooter , At first it was starting fine but over time the stator fryed and hade to be replaced and after replacing it did not give any spark. so i tried changing the cdi and ignition coil . AND STILL NO SPARK any advice?
You got an open circuit somewhere, do you have VOM, tester?Did you replace or test the fuse?
Q: I tried to add a new radio to it. The wires touched each other, a spark. I tried to fix the fuses. I take one out while the car is on. And I try to start the car without the fuse. I did replace the fuse. The Turn signals still dont work, and neither does the dashboard light up. Why is that?
Most likely, you still need to replace the rear lights fuse. Most domestic and imports were built to show no light on the dash board in order to indicate that rear lights are not on working order. For the signal light, you must replace the dimmer. The dimmer is a cylinder shaped component (about 1.5 inches diameter) typically located on the same fuse block. Just pull it out and replace it with a new one. Good luck!
Q: I changed all the bad fuses, then I changed the switch, then I tested the motor by hooking up a 12V battery pack, and it worked just fine up and down. What else could be the problem and how do I test it?Also, the window and the door lock mechanisms don't work on the passenger front door, even from the master control on the drivers side door.
the window has a plastic belt on it behind the door panel that has broken or the teeth on it has stripped out.You can get the parts anywhere now.
Q: I have a 2002 Honda Civic that has a 12-Volt power outlet to plug in things such as my radar detector. I've used the same radar detector in my Civic for years without any problems. Recently, after using my radar detector, my fuse would burn out after using the outlet with the detector plugged in. It happens every time. I've already changed the fuse three times! And it's the correct amps too! Does anyone have any idea what's going on? Does my car have a more serious electrical problem I should know about? Any suggestions would be great.
Could be the power outlet itself. Try plugging it in and leaving it in. Unplugging and plugging it in can loosen/damage the outlet. I tell my customers to plug in accessory and leave it alone. You could try an adapter 2-1 or 3-1 and leave it alone.

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