• Electro Ceramics Made of Steatite System 1
Electro Ceramics Made of Steatite

Electro Ceramics Made of Steatite

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Loading Port:
China Main Port
Payment Terms:
TT or LC
Min Order Qty:
10000 Pieces pc
Supply Capability:
50000 Pieces per Month pc/month

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Ceramic materials are highly suitable for electrical insulation. This field covers a wide range of applications, from fuses, household appliances to heating elements. No other material group combines the properties of a high degree of heat resistance and electrical insulation as well as ceramics....

 

Fuses

*NH fuses

*DIN fuses

*Fuse tubes

*Chamber plates

*Household appliances

*Thermostat casings

*Switches

*Sockets

*Connecting parts

 

Resistors

*Profiled bodies

*Solid bodies

*Steel coils

*Spiral pipes

 

Electrical heating (electrical heating technology)

*Perforated strips

*Heating element supports

*Insulation beads

 

Q: after a ride i noticed my neutral light, tachometer, blinker lights and gauge, and brake light were not working anymore. im not good at electrical but i took off my gas tank and seat to follw the wires and i didnt see anything that looked like it wasnt getting contact, and i also checked my fuses. any thoughts?
Now that you're satisfied with your fuses and connections,check your relays, and wiring between connections for any place where the may get pinched. Also check mounting of all the affected devices for a good, clean, rust free and solid mounting to ensure good grounding of those devices. It sounds like the failure of any one of these components affects them all.
Q: Basicly I took my car to a mechanic to get a new clutch. I know that they took the battery out in order to do the job. Soon after I got my car back the subs stopped working. I took alook at all the audio components and wiring earlier today and notice that the fuse sized 40 was blown. I am talking about the fuse right next to the battery leading to the amp. I replaced it but it blew out shortly after again. The mechanic said its not his problem and now I am on here on yahoo looking for a solution. Can some one tell me were I should start looking. Thank you very much!
Does your system use a capacitor? Does the fuse blow immediately, or how long does it last? Does it blow with the radio or car off? When you place the fuse in the holder, does it spark a little? Also you did replace it with a 40 amp fuse right? Edit: Look at the fuse(fuses) in your amp, make sure the total value of the 2 are equal to the fuse at the battery. Example, if your amp has two 25 amp fuses then the fuse at the battery should be 50 amps. If you have a fuse lower than the value of the amp fuse, it could cause the fuse to blow for no reason.
Q: i tried hooking up the positive to the fuse buss but it shorted out a couple fuses i may have gotten the wires confused
The positive wire goes to an accessory wire (or a blank accessory terminal in your fuse block if so equiped). The other wire goes to ground. It has to be ground to the metal of the car. All of the electrical components in your car are grounded to the car. The electricity comes from the battery through the wires to the components, goes through the components then returns to the battery using the metal of the car (aka the chassis). Also, add a fuse to the wire if there isn't one already. A live wire in the car without a fuse is very dangerous.
Q: I was able to find out what the source of amperage draw was coming from, and it is the IOD. It is drawing 0.426 amps. The meter reads 0.923 and the Vehicle reads 0.497 without it installed. Generally, vehicles should have this amount to begin with correct? What could possibly be the issue with the IOD? Why is there an excess in amperage draw?
IOD stands for Ignition Off Draw, so obviously it will always exist on modern cars. There are things like clock, radio stations, etc., that always draws a small amount of parasitic current. I am not sure what the normal IOD draw should be, but is yours so much that the battery dies over night and won't start? If not, then forget about it. Try taking the battery cable terminal off a battery post and putting a test light across the gap. It is does not light bright, then it is probably too low of amps to worry about. But if it is too much, then you disconnect things one at a time, like stereo, to determine the cause.
Q: I have a friend with a 1993 Chevy Lumina and it will not charge the battery for some reason. He just replaced it with a new alternator and had it checked to make sure it was good at the store he bought it. When we jump it off with another vehicle it cranks fine and runs.but then when you drive down the road it will die if you step on brakes.then try to crank it.and it is deadwill not crank.like a dead battery. We had the battery all charged up as the battery is only 1 year old. Even bought a new battery. Why won't this thing charge? It there some kind of other electrical component keeping it from charging properly? What about fuses or some other regulator or realy somewhere? The engine on it by the way is a v-6 and a 3.1liter.
There is an alternator fuse in the under hood fuse box . If that is not blown check the battery wire on the back of the alt for battery voltage .
Q: i checked the fuses, i had similar problems when i tried to install a stereo deck myself. Also my srs lights are on and my window does not open.
time for another car friend. don't mess with this as it is old. face it jap cars don't last forever. u no n japan they don't rebuild anything? everything is replaced every 100,000 km which is 66000 miles. ur car isn't designed to last. that is why every jap car in a wreck is totalled. the jap car co's make more money selling u a new car. so but another jap car. I don't want to catch u riding n a real car, like a 57 chevy or 67 mustang. I will pop u n tha haid an take it from ya.
Q: I recently lost my internal lights, clock and annoying whine that tells me I left the lights on. I worked out where the fuse was after like, an hour of searching the internet forums and found the fuse that deals with the internal lights and clock. Low and behold, it was blown, replaced it with the spare 7.5 rated fuse, checked it, lights came on and clock, and then after about a minute, the fuse blew again. Any ideas what the prob could be? Plus, I couldnt find the fuse for the annoying whine that lets me know the lights are on. Neither could I find any fuse box layouts on the internet, anyone able to help me out?
First you need to find out if the short is in the wiring for this fuse or wiring from this fuse and another. To do this remove half the fuses prior to replacing the blown fuse. If it still blows then all the fuses are eliminated. Now remove the other half and if it still blows then the problem is within the wiring for just that one fuse. Next unplug the items connected to that fuse and then replace the fuse. If it still blows you have a wiring problem. Either seek help or run new wires. If when you unplug a component connect to the wires for this fuse and the fuse does not blow most likely that part is your problem.I an sure this well help you because i try it before and it work it won't harm your car and good luck
Q: I have a 30amp fuse that operates my door locks and power seats. I carry around a box of them because sometimes the fuse will last a couple of weeks, or days or hours. Any ideas of an easy fix?
is there a penny in your cigarette lighter that is known to blow fuses, also just take out the cig lighter and see how long it lasts then.
Q: Any ideas what th FL5 50 amp fusable link is for, thanks in advance
Give the abs unit a slap with your palm.I had one of thes e with a stuck solenoid causing the unusual current flow What follows is not related to your problem but the info about FL5 follows:- If you have a Range Rover Classic or Discovery 1 that is getting up there in age and has had its share of use, not to mention exposure to western New York winters, you may soon find out how a fusible link works. Sometime in the 1992 Model Year, Land Rover introduced the fusible link as an added protection to the electrical systems in the Range Rover. This system also was used in the Discoverys. If you experience a number of sudden and simultaneous failures of various electrical systems and components, there is a good chance that you have blown one of these fusible links
Q: I have a lenovo model 0768 and I want to know what parts I should buy for it to make it a gaming laptop. I have 700 dollars to spend on it and it still has the original parts in it. Thanks for answering if you answer.
you cant make a non gaming laptop into a gaming laptop. you can do this with desktops only laptop's major components are fused to the motherboard and are not replaceable/upgradable so your only choice is to buy a new higher powered laptop
Our company mainly produces 75% , 95% , 99% alumina, titanium, zirconium, steatite, magnesia, cordierite products which are widely used in metal welding, electronic conductor, mechanics, assembling, insulation, chemicals, instrument, textile, nuclear industry, aerial, as well as hairdressing field.

1. Manufacturer Overview

Location Jiangsu,China (Mainland)
Year Established 1999
Annual Output Value US$1 Million - US$2.5 Million
Main Markets North America; South America; Eastern Europe; Southeast Asia; Africa; Oceania; Mid East; Eastern Asia
Company Certifications GB/T19001-2000/ISO9001:2000Standard

2. Manufacturer Certificates

a) Certification Name  
Range  
Reference  
Validity Period  

3. Manufacturer Capability

a) Trade Capacity
Nearest Port Shanghai
Export Percentage 91% - 100%
No.of Employees in Trade Department 3-5 People
Language Spoken: English, Chinese
b) Factory Information
Factory Size: 3,000-5,000 square meters
No. of Production Lines 7
Contract Manufacturing OEM Service Offered; Design Service Offered; Buyer Label Offered
Product Price Range

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