• TBBX serial LV reactive in-place compensation device System 1
TBBX serial LV reactive in-place compensation device

TBBX serial LV reactive in-place compensation device

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Brief

It is used in the AC power distribution system terminal with the 1kV voltage or less to inerease power factor,to reduce circuit loss,to improve the output of the transformer and to make the motor economically operate.It is used paralleled with the motor and the inductive load to automatically tracking compensate to the frequency factor.
Operating standard:GB7115-93.


Main features

a、The compensation accessory is elastic,direct and highly effective.
b、Invest is few and the return is big.It is very economical because the invest can pay back by the saving power fee after using it half a year.
c、Novel in structure,light in weight.
d、Using it is very easy and safe and reliable.


Mode&implication
Usage requirements

a、Surrounding atmosphere temperature:-25~+40℃;
b、Relative humidity:when 40℃≤50%,20℃≤90%;
c、Altitude:It is no more than 2000m;
d、Environment:Noharmful gases of vapor,no conductive and explosive dust,no strong mechanical shake;


Main technical parameter

a、Rated voltage:0.4~0.69kV,AC;
b、Rated frequency:50Hz;
c、Rated capacity:1~120kvar;
d、Capacity deviation:0~+15%;
e、Maximum Permitted over-voltage:it is 1.1ated voltage;
f、Maximum Permitted over-current:it is 1.30 as the rated current;
g、Discharge:The rest voltage reduces to below 50V in 3min after switch soen.
h、Protection degree:IP20;


Table of main specification,overall and installation dimension


Q: Hey guys thanks for looking, ok basically i bought a pug 306 td the other day but the guy i bought it off went to jump start it as is had a flat battery after standing for 2 months, he connected the terminals wrong on the jump leads, which he thinks blew the aalternatorand the batterie, i however think that the batterie will be fried but surely there will be a fuse somewhere to stop the aalternatorand all the other electrics being fried?? do you think i am right? and if i am right do you know where and how big that fuse is?Thanks people 10points for best answer!
you are better asking an auto elect as i dont know if has computer
Q: I drive a '97 Dodge Dakota. I've had it for 3yrs now. When I first got it from my G-pa,the headlights were acting up at that time which was like October/November '06. Got a new switch and that did the trick. Well apparently not because the same problem came right back. And when the switch was pulled out we flipped it over to see if there was a problem underneath it. Well you could clearly see one of the terminals was fried. So again we replaced the switch. Problem solved. WRONG. The same problem has come back to haunt me now,2yrs later. Now as before,the headlights would come on and as I drove they would flicker on and off,though if the high beams were switched on or held on,I would have no problems. Now they don't flicker on and off,I pull the switch and they don't even come on. I can hold in the high beam switch and they stay. There is the scoop. Any tips/help would be greatly appreciated.
Verify there is battery voltage present at the switch on the Red/White wire. If not check fuses. If ok check for battery voltage coming out of the headlight switch on the Light Green wire in the headlight position. If no voltage on LG wire , replace headlamp switch. .
Q: i forgot to switch to 230v when plugging in my american desktop infrance, there was a pop, and now it wont start. did i completely breakit or is there a circuit breaker or something i can fix
Most likely the breaker fuse inside the power supply fried may have successfully prevented mainboard components from damage. In some units this is a user serviceable part. Unless you are an experienced micro electrician I would simply replace the power supply. They cost anywhere from 30 to 80 dollars. regards, Philip T
Q: I have a 2000 Ranger I turned it off and it would not start again I have power to head and dome lights, replaced the 50 blade fuse position number 5 in the power management box and it worked for 1 to 2 sec then burnt out again. is it the starter relay, the ignition switch, the starter or something else. anyone have this problem? how did you fix it? any help would be greatly appreciated
a three or a 5 amp fuse would be positive, as long as your heater works once you slot the plug there is not any would desire to purchase a clean one. If the heater is going defective it particularly is going to easily blow the fuse, yet there is not any reason it is going to.
Q: I have no idea what this component is or where to get one. It's from a sleep comfort bed pump and I need a replacement part. Here's a picture of it and the pump label.
It's a 1.6 amp class T fuse. The other markings may be the original manufacturers part number, but I can't read them in your picture. Judging by the charred remains of the fuse plastered all over the board, you had a short circuit straight across the mains supply. Unless you find what caused the short and fix it properly, replacing the fuse on its own is a complete waste of time.
Q: i have a 150cc 4-stroke scooter , At first it was starting fine but over time the stator fryed and hade to be replaced and after replacing it did not give any spark. so i tried changing the cdi and ignition coil . AND STILL NO SPARK any advice?
I've Got the same problem (it's a go kart, but it's a gy6 150cc, same set up and pieces as scooter). What did the issue ended up being on yours?
Q: I have a 30amp fuse that operates my door locks and power seats. I carry around a box of them because sometimes the fuse will last a couple of weeks, or days or hours. Any ideas of an easy fix?
Either you have an intermittent short to ground in the wiring or something on the circuit (motor, for example) is adding resistance and subsequently pulling excessive current because it is binding/starting to fail etc. and causing the circuit to overload and the fuse to pop. Is there anything else on the circuit that you know of? Do the power seats move smoothly and consistently on the tracks? Some cars have several motors that control the power seats so it can get complicated if one of them is the culprit. If it is not in the wiring and a component is causing it it sometimes it is easier to wait for the problematic component to take a sh*t and then just replace it. That's about the best that I can say over a computer. Good luck!
Q: Any ideas what th FL5 50 amp fusable link is for, thanks in advance
Give the abs unit a slap with your palm.I had one of thes e with a stuck solenoid causing the unusual current flow What follows is not related to your problem but the info about FL5 follows:- If you have a Range Rover Classic or Discovery 1 that is getting up there in age and has had its share of use, not to mention exposure to western New York winters, you may soon find out how a fusible link works. Sometime in the 1992 Model Year, Land Rover introduced the fusible link as an added protection to the electrical systems in the Range Rover. This system also was used in the Discoverys. If you experience a number of sudden and simultaneous failures of various electrical systems and components, there is a good chance that you have blown one of these fusible links
Q: a. short circuit b. series circuitc. switch d. parallel circuit e.fuse f. electric power
Answer b) A series circuit only has one possible path for the electrons to move.
Q: i replaced the old fuse after it blew and it keeps blowing when i plug it in. it calls for a 5A 125V 5mm X 20mm fuse could i replace it with a higher rated fuse? like a 6A or something, why do the new fuses keep blowing?
You have a serious problem. Do not replace the fuse higher than what is recommended. You have an internal short in the system. The fuse blows so that it could not have more damage to the receiver. Call or email the maunfacturer and ask for the closes repair shop they authorize. Hope this will help you out.

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