TBBX serial LV reactive in-place compensation device
- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
- -
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Brief |
It is used in the AC power distribution system terminal with the 1kV voltage or less to inerease power factor,to reduce circuit loss,to improve the output of the transformer and to make the motor economically operate.It is used paralleled with the motor and the inductive load to automatically tracking compensate to the frequency factor. |
Main features |
a、The compensation accessory is elastic,direct and highly effective. |
Mode&implication |
Usage requirements |
a、Surrounding atmosphere temperature:-25~+40℃; |
Main technical parameter |
a、Rated voltage:0.4~0.69kV,AC; |
Table of main specification,overall and installation dimension |
- Q:A friend of mine has left town for a week, so another friend and I decided to install air horns in his car as a Christmas present/practical joke. We wired the horns to his existing horn button and it seemed to have worked for a short time. Then it stopped. We assume the problem is a blown fuse and we're going back in to check/work on it more soon. My question is what should be done after replacing the fuse to assure no further failure? Obviously the horns are drawing too much power, but will any electrical components solve the issue? Possibly a higher gauge wire?
- You'd have to wire the switch to a relay, which in turn would power the air horn. The wiring between the battery, the relay, and the horn would have to be a lower-gauge-number (i.e., thicker) wire and would have to be protected by a suitable fuse or breaker.
- Q:I thought that it might the belt.Popped the topThe belt is attached to the drumActually the belt is fused on to the drumIs that OK ?What's my next step in trying to fix this thing?Thanks for your time
- I can't imagine the belt fusing to the drum unless the motor died and the stationary drum heated up and melted the belt, but this seems unlikely because usually when a main component fails, most dryers are designed to stop working completely. Barring some sort of safety feature override with a jumper wire that bypasses the safety feature that would remove the power flow through all components as soon as a motor or heater core overloads. Once an overload condition cycles a shutdown, nothing else should work as this is designed to prevent the dryer from overheating and causing a house fire.
- Q:How to turn the idle down?
- fuse panels: 2 one under the dash above the driver's side kick panel and there's another under the hood, between the battery and the windshield. neither will let you adjust idle nor are there any fuses inside that will affect the idle. How to turn the idle down? Now that depends on why the idle is high. BUT, there is a screw on the throttle you can turn which is the ONLY official way of adjusting the idle. The idle adjustment screw ON THESE TRUCKS is known for having the o-ring harden which then allows engine vibrations to cause the screw to vibrate and back out which in turn will cause the idle to increase. Pull the screw out, install new o-ring, then adjust your idle back where it should be. Now wasn't that easier than the 2 page reply above me?
- Q:I installed my brand new battery in backwards, it was late at night and i couldn't see what i connected. When the terminals connected, a green wire connected to the starter popped in smoke. I took my truck to a mechanic and they said i fried my computer and that i needed a new one.or a used one. IS this seriously what i didbecause this is a $500.00 F*** Up.
- I also changed my battery in the dark. Bad idea, was in a hurry to get it done. Bought a battery off a mechanic for my 2001 Honda Civic and assumed it was the right one. It wasn't the polarity were reversed. I couldn't see the + and - because it was too dark. I watched the positive cable spark for about 10 seconds then pulled it off realizing what I had done. Fortunately the main 80amp fuse in the engine compartment fried and that's where the damage ended. Bought a new fuse and the right battery and changed it in the daytime. I guess it depends on what kind of vehicle you have because I didn't fry anything.
- Q:I have 5mm LEDs that Im using to make automotive tail lights with and I need to know what I use for surge protection.
- No surge protection is required, and as for fusing, use a normal-blow fuse rated about 20% higher than the current normally drawn by the lights.
- Q:Any help greatly appreciated. So I drive a 2005 Chrysler 300. 3.5l v6. I have strange headlight and tail light issues. Mind you there are what I believe aftermarket LED halo style headlights in the front. Tail lights are from 300c hemiFirst of all my #8 fuse [15 amp] is repeatedly blowing for no appearant reason. A Working fuse gives me the fancy blue halos, orange lamps, 3 small LED's and my normal beams. As well as proper running tail lights for the back and a responsive light switch to turn them off and on. . When the fuse blows I'm left with no lights other than my normal beams up front. No tail lights. Yet when the fuse IS blown I press the break and all my tail lights come on [all reds, and yellow blinker lights both constant. Yellow lights don't blink] and a glitchy light switch. NOW aside from all of that. My bottom left fog light does not work. The bulb looks un damaged. Any help greatly appreciated
- The fuse protects an individual circuit. The lights which work when the fuse is blown is on another fuse circuit. They could not work if they were on the same circuit as the #8 fuse. It sounds like you may have too many lights on the #8 circuit. If the lighting load is greater than 15 amps it will blow the fuse when you turn on enough lights to exceed the 15 amps. Disconnect a few of the lights to bring the load below the 15 amp limit, and see if it resolves the fuse problem. You could increase the fuse size to 20 amps, but this is not usually advisable as the fuse is sized to protect the circuit components. If its not a result of having too much lighting on the circuit, then I would look for a bare wire which may be contacting the car chassis. The battery is grounded to the car frame, so any power source which touches the chassis will result in a dead ground, which will cause the fuse to blow. I would suggest getting a multimeter to check to see if you are getting power to the left fog light. If you are getting power, then the problem is with the bulb or light fixture. If you are not getting power, then I'd look for a blown fuse or faulty switch.
- Q:I want to add a circuit to my car to hardwire my gps and radar, and to run my rally lights.I have 10 gauge leads with a 30a fuse. I have 3 spst switches to run each. I have the appropraite fuses for each component.so to get to the point, i need to know how, if possible, to wire them in series so the voltage going to each is the same. This is my first time messing wiith electronics, and do i need to add any relays or capacitors?Thanks,Ben
- A series circuit is one draw after another. If one doesn#x27;t work none work. Like Xmas tree lights if one goes out the whole string is out. I think you want parallel circuit. One hot lead and separate switches controlling each draw. It would be better to have individual fuses for each accessory. Do have 30 amp fuse on the main hot lead.
- Q:I have an Alpine CDM 7874 head unit in my car the lights have gone dim on 1 side of the faceplate. Is there some fuse I can chage to get them working again, or should I get a new faceplate?
- Dim or out completely? Most electronic faces that require lighting usually use a few LED's or smaller lights to light up the entire display. There's usually a network of clear plastic tracks running behind the buttons, the light source shows in at one end of this plastic, and the light travels along the plastic and any buttons it pass's by will light up. Sounds like one or more of the LED's burnt out and the ambient light from other LED's are the dim light you see. You could open the faceplate up, take the cover off and place the face onto the deck and power it up and check if all the LED's light up. Replacing the lights would be tricky since you'd need a surgeons hand to desoldier the LED's and then put new ones backwithout buring the circuit board :P Btw, there would be no fuse's present in the faceplate since there's nothing but buttons and the LCD in it. The fuses on the back of your headunit are for the internal amplifier. You'd know if they were blown since the unit wouldn't even come on.
- Q:I was just wondering what happens when an electrical component or circuit becomes 'shot' as we term it. Now I am studying engineering, and my field has delved slightly into electricity, so I understand electricity to a point. But anyone out their with a good understanding of electricity, what exactly goes wrong? Thanks.
- The power supply which, we get in our home, contains atleast two wires, one is phase which carries currect inputtin from the transformer, and the other wise is neutral which is commonly dummy, but when we connect the circuit, then this neutral wire provides return path for currentand if these two wires get shorted, then a current of 200 times normal current generates in it, but the wires can carry only upto 5 to 10 times the normal current. so when short occures then such high currents use to do damageso the introduction of circuit breakers or fuse is necessory.with its use the the circuit is get breaked even when the short circuit current become higher than 10 times thanx
- Q:-Approximately 800 miles on the bike-58 cm. aluminum frame (Ideal for 6' to 6'3)-Alexrims--R500 rims-Maxxis Fuse tires-Shimano SORA flightdeck and components (derailer works well but needs configuring as there is a bit of
- Scott. Made in the USA, kick butt geometry, good lookin' bike. I say get it, just upgrade the Sora to at least 105.
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TBBX serial LV reactive in-place compensation device
- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
- -
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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