Ceramic Bobbin Heater with Coil
- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT or LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1000 Sets set
- Supply Capability:
- 10000 Sets per Month set/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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APPLICATION - Offering a large surface area to heat liquids or semi-solid materials such as water, oil, wax, fats, and bitumen.
CONSTRUCTION - Ceramic link bobbins in either single or 3 phase connections. Thermowell sheath material ranges from nickel plated mild steel, copper, nickel plated copper to stainless steel.
TEMPERATURE RANGE - 0 to 250 oC
VERSATILITY - This type of heating unit gives simple, low cost installation.
CLEAN & ENERGY EFFICIENT - Electric heating is the cleanest non polluting form of heat available today. Energy efficient due 100% of the heat is generated within the solution.
- Q: I wrote to the company and they said they can't (or won't) identify the thermal fuse rating, nor will they tell me where to get one. They told me to just buy a new fryer for $50. I don't want to do that, being that I know the fuse costs $2 (I just replaced on my coffee machine). The numbers on the old one are illegible. If I knew the specific rating, I think I could just scoot down to the local Radio Shack and get a new one, like I did for the coffee maker. I can find no service manual anywhere. I assume the rating has to be at least 450 degrees F, but I want to get some more info before replacing what is essentially a fail-safe protection device. If I get on that is rated to high, I run the risk of severely overheating the unit, and I have teenagers who may use it; too low, and it will blow before the oil gets nearly hot enough to fry my chicken. I know I can make the thing operate without the fuse, but I would like to replace it. Any info?
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- Q: i recently opend up my ps2 and took the power board off of the console and wired in an led light through the 4 prongs that go to the power board, i was super carefull with everything and i put it together, it worked and the led light was too weak for i and i took it off, put it back together and it worked fine again, so i left it sitting for all night and i noticed i kept hearing a loud ringing noise like an old tv noise, so i went over to my ps2 because i noticed the red standby light was off and i thought i left the switch off in the back, so i switched it back and fourth and nothing happend, so i was like aww crap so now im in this situation to where when i turn the back switch on it just rings loud and nothing happens, what could be the problem?
- You'd need to look at a schematic and say exactly where these prongs were, where they are on the power board. It could be a lot of different things. Adding that LED light to those prongs may have cause a power spike or fluctuation on part of the board and blown a fuse or damaged a component. It may have connected circuits that were never meant to be connected, delivering too much power to something. Sure the light worked, but electricity will flow through any closed circuit, that doesn't mean it's meant to be closed. Those power boards are designed to take 120V and chop it up into different-sized tiny little bits to be passed of to the primary board and its sensitive circuits. They are complicated, and you shouldn't mess with them unless you have a schematic and know what you're doing. Even dropping a paper clip or screw on it can accidentally cause an overflow and destroy some circuits. It's why solder is made with lead, it prevents flakes of tin from shedding off and ruining the circuits. Since it is ringing, it sounds like you have mostly wiped out your power board's relays. Not much you can do about that except replace them. And I wouldn't do that for a good long while if I were you, until the capacitor cools back down again. A TV technician would be able to open it up, find the high-voltage circuits and discharge them. I'm guessing you're not a TV technician.
- Q: can somebody please explain the parts marked in red on the following image
- The item marked 200mA is a fuse. The 4- 47000 ohm resistors are forming voltage dividers, each pair providing a voltage of 2.5V to the 2 centre pins of that plug. The 2.5 V on each is positive with respect to the lowest plug's pin. There is unlikely to be any load on the 2.5V., it is just providing a voltage.
- Q: Hey,Ww have a DC to AC converter so we can use our laptop and charge our cells on the road. The casing fell off the converter, and my mom and sister told me that it was stuck in the front power port (or point as the manual calls it) of the van.One day I decided to go out with a pair of hemostats and try and remove the plug. Little did I know that power was still running to the power point inspite of the engine off. Once the hemostats were inserted, there was this huge ark (tons of sparks) so I made sure everything ran properly and said that I would get the part out at a later date.Today I looked and it turns out no part is stuck in that power port, but it is dead. The fuses for the front and back port are okay along with the cigar lighter.I thought I could go pick up a new port from the dealership, but my mom thinks the wiring is fried, but if the voltage got that high, wouldn't the 20 amp (max of 240V) be fried?Anyone know what could be wrong? Is it the wiring or port?Ty!
- Im sure it would be the wiring or a fuse. I would check for a fuse under the dash and also there should be a main fusebox in the engine bay next to the battery. If it was the wiring then it would have shorted at the weakest place (or smallest gauge wire). When something like that happens you need to be carefull. There is no telling what kind of damage might have been done to other electrical components in the vehicle. Hopefully that was the only thing affected and you wont see any more problems come up later on. I would suggest having a diagnostic done on the electrical system just for good measure. good luck.
- Q: I have a 9-5 SE 2000 that I just bought a little over a month ago and last Friday around 8pm my car alarm triggered for no reason. When I went outside to shut the alarm off with my remote key chain nothing happened, it kept going, rather loud I might add. It didn't matter how many times I locked or unlocked the car the siren kept wailing. When I put the key in the ignition she started but the alarm would stop. Again, I tried multiple times to shut it off with the electronic remote key chain to no avail. Finally after about five minutes later it randomly shut off. Since then I located the fuse for the alarm under the hood and removed it. I think this has solved the problem of alarm going off but it's also shut down the anti-theft system completely. I'm wondering if removing this fuse does any harm to the other electrical components and whether it shuts off the engine immobiliser in addition to the alarm? Now each time I start the car the SID display sends the CHECK THEFT SYSTEM. Advice?
- you may not beleive this, but, your alarm systen, is radio controled. The little goody on your key ring is a tiny transmitter.It is on the same band as microwave ovens and cell phones. Some one in your neighborhood, may have been useing their cell fone, and it tripped your alarm. Don't worry about taking the fuse out. It will not hurt any thing. You may want to install a toggle switch under the dash, that will disable the alarm, in case it does it againreplace the flat battery in your key ring controler too.
- Q: 99 jetta was working fine till one day it didnt startit didnt crank or many any sounds when i go to start it i also noticed before i did this that my key remote was not locking or unlocking my doors, also the controls on the door to lock and unlcock didnt work either everything lights up headlights , radio. but it wont start,, i had it jumped and nothing happend. mechanic tested the battery and said the battery is fine. and he doesnt know wat happend.any help ?
- The lock barrel probably has just gummed up. It's unlikely that you have a bent pin. Try spraying WD40 into the keyhole. This works in 99% of cases. If that doesn;t work then a locksmith will cost you about ?60 + the cost of a new barrel. You can replace the barrel on a PVC door your self if you are confident enough. I'm assuming that you have the normal PVC door lock which is a Yale type key combined with lever handles. Look at the edge of the door near where the lock's tonge sticks out. You'll see a single cross-head screw. This holds the barrel in place. Make sure that all is in the unlocked position. Take off the handles and eustucian plate from the inside of the door. Remove (carefully) the screw I mentioned. Pull out the barrel. Take your new barrel and replace by reversing the above procedure.
- Q: Car blows fuse constantly that allows u to get it out of park.Changed fuse from 15amp to 20.lasted almost 2 weeks and now blowing the fuse againBrakes still work when this happens and they light up.Turn signals do not work when this happens
- Some where in the circuit for the D range in you car is a short to ground weather it be right after the shifter all the way down to one of the solenoids in the transmission shift assembly? If you can find the short it'll fix right away? Have it scanned for trouble codes this might help find it? But major don't increase the fuse size this is extremely bad it will cause the wire the harness or the component it's attached to to receive vary high current this will cause the for mentioned things to burn and fail this could cause a 50-60$ repair to be at worst a 2-3000$ dollar reapir
- Q: I have a Polk Audio MOMO C400.4 that im planning to use to power my MOMO 6x5 components and MOMO 6x9's @ 75w RMS x 4. I also have a Kenwood KAC-7202 that i plan on running bridged which will pull 460w RMS @ 4 ohms. What size fuze will I need for 4 gauge wire? I have a 4AWG wire with a Rockford Fosgate distribution block that splits from 4AWG to 8AWG with AGU fuses on it, unknown size Would I still need a inline fuse to the battery?
- always place an in line fuse the the amp wiring ; as close to the battery as possible . consider this if the amp wire gets pinched or drilled though then a short to ground exists . you want the in line fuse at the battery to blow so the wire does not heat up and possibly burn your car down. Add the total current requirements and use that size fuse and appropriate holder; in your case 100 A . Ps it is extremely important to have an in line fuse at or very near the battery.
- Q: I have no idea what this component is or where to get one. It's from a sleep comfort bed pump and I need a replacement part. Here's a picture of it and the pump label.
- Its a 1.6Amp, T, delay or anti- surge fuse. But if you dont know what it is , how do you know that it needs replacement? Dispite the temptation, do not do a kluge repair. It should only be replaced by exact replacement. As a safety device, you will need to determine why the fuse has blown, if indeed it is! Perhaps the pump got jammed or blocked? Faults on the board or wiring may be reason.
- Q: i have a pyramid ps52kx power supply and its powering a car amp for my room(dont comment about the set-up it works) but its drawin gto many amperes my question is can i just put a larger amperes fuse in so it wont trip?
- Nope. That would be unsafe. Fuses are sized for safety. Oversizing a fuse will cause the supply to overtheat and possibly catch fire, of not weaken the components and produce less current than they do now. What you want is a power supply with more peak power.
1. Manufacturer Overview
Location | Jiangsu,China (Mainland) |
Year Established | 1999 |
Annual Output Value | US$1 Million - US$2.5 Million |
Main Markets | North America; South America; Eastern Europe; Southeast Asia; Africa; Oceania; Mid East; Eastern Asia |
Company Certifications | GB/T19001-2000/ISO9001:2000Standard |
2. Manufacturer Certificates
a) Certification Name | |
Range | |
Reference | |
Validity Period |
3. Manufacturer Capability
a) Trade Capacity | |
Nearest Port | Shanghai |
Export Percentage | 91% - 100% |
No.of Employees in Trade Department | 3-5 People |
Language Spoken: | English, Chinese |
b) Factory Information | |
Factory Size: | 3,000-5,000 square meters |
No. of Production Lines | 7 |
Contract Manufacturing | OEM Service Offered; Design Service Offered; Buyer Label Offered |
Product Price Range |
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Ceramic Bobbin Heater with Coil
- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT or LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1000 Sets set
- Supply Capability:
- 10000 Sets per Month set/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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