Axial Flow Propeller Pump

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Axial Flow Propeller Pump

Propeller Pump Product description

QZ series axial flow pumps are modern products successfully designed through adopting foreign modern technology. The new pumps’ capacity are 20% larger than the old ones. The efficiency is 3%-5% higher than the old ones. QZ series pump with adjustable impellers has the advantages of large capacity, broad head, high efficiency, wide application and so on. Pump station is small in scale, the construction is simple and the investment is greatly decreased. This can save 30%-40% for the building cost. It is easy to install,maintain and repair this kind of pump. Low noise,long life.

Propeller Pump Application

QZ series axial-flow pump is applicable for water supply in cities, diversion works, sewage drainage system, sewage disposal project.

Propeller Pump Technical Data:

Flow rate: up to 20 m³/h

Head: up to 20 m

Speed: max rpm

Temperature: max °C

Casing pressure: up to MPa

Shaft seal: mechanical sealing

Material: nodular iron, stainless steel, duplex

Q: Pump adapter belongs to the system of fire pool equipment?: Not belong to. They all belong to hydrant water supply system.

Q: ok so im wondering if there is a water pump out there i can buy that automatically turns on when i turn the tap on. i looking for something thats strong enough to pump enough water to more than one taps at a time i.e kitchen tap, bathroom etc.: See okorder /

Q: 2 inches of water pump is generally equipped with high-power motors: Clean water pump 5.5 kw

Q: How many kinds of pumps are there? What are the advantages of soft start?: Soft start is prepared, hard start is not prepared, the machine suddenly can not stand! Ha-ha

Q: My water stopped working and my tank emptied. I replaced the pressure switch and the gauge. It still didn't work. The well is about 110'. I pulled the pump and replaced it (1/2 HP, 10 gpm, 2-wire). It still doesn't work. The old pump was 15 years old. The one before only lasted 7 years. The water has a lot of sediment. I have never done this before, but it seemed straightforward enough. The wires on the pump were not differentiated in any way (same color). Could I have put the wires together incorrectly? Could I have put the switch in wrong? It doesn't click on when the breaker is turned on. What else could be wrong? Could the breaker be bad? It wasn't kicked out.: A two wire pump usually has a 120 volt motor. The neutral wire from the motor goes to the neutral wire at the disconnect switch. The other wire from the motor goes to one terminal screw of the pressure switch. The disconnect switch hot wire goes to the terminal screw right next to the first one. ( either the two terminals on the left or the two on the right. ) Sometimes people will switch the neutral wire as well. If the voltage is good, pressure switch contacts are clean - like no bugs having been smashed or caught up in between, then you might expect a break in the wire or the wire splice at the motor wire connection. If your old pump burned out you may have needed new wire also. Sometimes the wire will burn apart inside the insulation and make a bubble. If your old wire was in good shape, or you replaced it, you should have used a submersible splice to connect to the motor wires. Crimp on wire connectors should be crimped tight. Every now and then I find one that didn't get crimped on one side. Rubber tape followed by plastic tape over that splice is good. Some people like the plastic tubes with compression ends for a splice covering.

Q: I live in a residential/country area, and I have a well pump down cellar. I notice that, even if I am not using any water, nothing is running (toilet, etc) it tends to cycle on and off every hour or so. The pressure is always good, so that's not an issue. I am just wondering....is it normal for it to do this?: How long does it pump when it turns on? This sounds like short cycling; you might have a leak somewhere in the system.

Q: I have a 1997 Honda Civic DX and i recently took it in to have its timing belt and water pump replaced. Since then, I have noticed a change in the cars performance. I have lost both gas mileage and power since i took my car in. The maintenance supposedly took the dealer twelve hours to complete which seemed a little odd to me. Do you think this is linked? I just remember getting a lot more miles to a tank of gas, and my car was about the same speed as a friend of mine's who now smokes me. Thank You.: 12 hours on a civic DX. I am a honda mechanic and I will say that this job only takes 2 hours, 4 hours if your slow and never done it before. Mind you this includes timing belt, water pump, cam seal, crankshaft seal, serpentine belts, valve cover gasket, spark plugs if needed, Honda coolant, and valve adjustment. If you are 1 tooth off on timing your Honda will run, but it will run very rough. Sounds to me like they may have the timing 1 tooth off, 2 teeth off and the car just wont run and if it does it will barely run. This car needs to be taken back and everything i told you should have been done and done properly. What probably happened is the dealer let an apprentice work on the car, since this civic is the easiest to do a timing belt on. However its still their fault that it was not done properly.

Q: Hi,My problem is of this automatic water pump ,it is disrupt always I don't no why..I also want to knew what is the function of the pressure air tank??? The picture is here:: WHAT does it is disrupt always really MEAN?? OK, that said... pumps such as this work to maintain a pressure with two set points even though the regulator only has one indicated.. The lower set point which as pressure drops, the pump turns on, and the upper set point where when the pressure rises to that point, the pump shuts off. When the pressure drops to the lower set point, it triggers the pump to run. When the pressure rises to the upper set point, the pump turns off. If the set point is 50 pounds, it may turn on at 47 and off at 53, or the window could be smaller and on at 49 and off at 51. The air bladder works as a shock absorber, just as the shocks work in your car to smooth the ride. When the pump turns ON there is a pressure pulse that without the air space, would promptly turn the pump off again. This is called short cycling and will cause your pump to on-off-on-off-on-off rapidly. The solution is to refill the air bladder. People with well pumps instead of city water have this problem frequently as the air bladder loses the bubble and does not work as a spring or shock absorber. I have city water NOW, but I used to use a well (which is still operational if I choose to use it) and I experienced pump short cycling the very first year I bought the house. The thing IS, I was ignorant. I missed the thing about a well and a septic tank that also uses a pump to an above ground drain field. YES. I was STUPID because I had NOT paid attention. NOW, years later, I have learned, the HARD way mind you, how these sanitary systems WORK in real life in RURAL America....

Q: I know what is the role of the pressurized water pump adapter to the indoor fire pipe through the fire, then the fire truck to the indoor water supply when the water is pressurized by municipal pipelines, natural water, fire water or water itself injection pump adapter? The fire truck is equivalent to a pump from the water extraction and then injected into the water pump adapter? I haven't seen it with my own eyes, so ask, I hope someone will answerIs the fire engine to be used as a pump? For example, in the field of water from fire pool or when municipal water supply network, a head of extraction, the other end of the water pump adapter access outdoor indoor pressure? PS: I'm not referring to the high-pressure water pump adapter, but access.: Fire engines have their own hoses. I've seen them. They usually have hydrants. They take water from them. If they don't work, they have their own water