• Egypt 6''8''10'' Deep Well Submersible Pump( Solar Pump ) System 1
Egypt 6''8''10'' Deep Well Submersible Pump( Solar Pump )

Egypt 6''8''10'' Deep Well Submersible Pump( Solar Pump )

Ref Price:
get latest price
Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
-
Supply Capability:
5000 unit/month

Add to My Favorites

Follow us:


OKorder Service Pledge

Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery

OKorder Financial Service

Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing

Quick Details

  • Place of Origin:Henan, China (Mainland)

  • Brand Name:SHENWU

  • Model Number:200QJ32-52/4

  • Theory:Centrifugal Pump

  • Structure:Multistage Pump

  • Usage:Water

  • Power:Electric

  • Standard or Nonstandard:Standard

  • Fuel:Electric

  • Pressure:High Pressure

  • Application:Submersible

  • Material:Cast Iron / Stainless Steel

  • Color:Blue or Green

  • Flow:32m3/h

  • Head:52m

  • Head Range:50-54m

  • Power:7.5kW

  • Drive:Motor

  • OEM,Design Service:Accept

  • Using:river,deep borehole well,open well,pool,etc

  • Outlet Diameter:1.2,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,10 inch

Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Details:plywood case with carbon box
Delivery Detail:3-5 days after payment confirmation

Specifications

Egypt 6''8''10'' Deep Well Submersible Pump
1.Flow:10~500 m3/h
2.Lift: 5~400m
3.Diameter:30~150mm
4.CE, BV, ISO9001

  Egypt 6''8''10'' Deep Well Submersible Pump( Solar Pump )

Our main products QJ submersible pumps series, QS bearing submersible pump series; QSL submersible halogen pumps series; WQ sewage pumps series; QY Oil Immerse submersible pump; SLG/SLW pipeline pump; D-Phase pumps; MD centrifugal pumps; SSQJ stainless steel deep well pumps, etc. over 40 kinds of series.

The pump flow range:   5m3/h~2000m3/h,

Lift scope :                   5m-1400m,

Motor power range:     0.55-500 kW.

There are over 3000 models.

SQJ ,SQS,SQY Submersible Pump Series Parameters

SQJ Submersible pumps Parameters:

Flow range10~500m3/h, Lift scope within 5~405m;

Caliber scope 32~203mm, Temperature range-15~80° C.

SQS Bearing submersible pumps Parameters:

Flow range10~250m3/h, Lift scope within 5~12m;

Caliber scope 30~150mm, Temperature range<=30° C.

SQY Oil Immersed submersible pumps Parameters:

Flow range10~100m3/h, Lift scope within 5~54m;

Caliber scope 51~152mm, Temperature range<=40° C.

Products Overview

SQJ, SQS, SQY, Series submersible pumps widely used in farmland irrigation, spray irrigation and water-use, industrial and civil buildings, also the drainage system to level hills, mountain diversion and in low-lying areas dunes, urban and rural mining supply, drainage and other water conservancy facilities. Characteristics are that they are assembled into a simple structure they have installation convenience a small footprint, simple maintenance and a safe reliable operation.

Product use conditions

1. SQJ Submersible pumps use conditions:

(1)380 V bias voltage does not exceed +/-10% and 50 HZ frequency, and the deviation is not more than + -1% of the three-phase power supply.

Electrical cavity must be filled with water during operation.

(3)The first-class pump impeller should at least go into a dynamic water level 2 m below surface. Static pump unit immersed under water shall not be greater than 70 m in depth.

(4)The normal water temperature should be no higher than 20 ° C, QJR- hot water pump temperature up to 80 ° C.

(5)Water and sand content (by mass) of not more than 0.01%.

(6)Water PH 6.5-8.5.

(7)The hydrogen sulfide in water content is not more than 1.5 mg / L.

2. SQS Bearing submersible pumps usage conditions:

(1)Power: 50 Hz frequency and voltage of 380 volts (allowing deviations +5% -10%) of the three-phase AC power. Pumps should be safe submerged operations, diving depth of not less than 0.5 meters.

(2)Water: general corrosion without water, sand volume is not 0.02%, PH: 6.5 ~ 8.5, extracting the water temperature no higher than 30 ° C.

3. SQY Oil Immersed submersible pumps use conditions:

Submersible pumps submerged depth of not more than 5 m; Water temperature does not exceed 40 ° C; water sediment or water insoluble solid mark of the volume ratio of not more than 0.1%, particle size less than 0.2mm, water pH value of 6.5 ~ 8.

Q: what size and what type water pump do i need?i am wanting to pump water from a river 345'-0 up hill at 45deg angle. i would like the water pump located at the cabin where the water dispursement would be. is there a pump that would allow me to do this. also, what size piping should i run from the river to the cabin. i can fabricate my own collection box at the river.any suggestions would be appreciated.
7 hp motor 8 IMPERIAL head pump( will through about 400 ft up ) with 50 mm piping will work for you.
Q: I am taking my car in for a timing bell replacement. My car is a honda accord 2001 6 cycl. The mileage is 80K still way under the manufacturer recommendation. I am thinking of replacing the oil pump and water pump. I am thinking that since the engine is already opened might as well get this done. I don't know if this is necessary. Are these items even closed to the timing belt area? Does anyone have any recommendation when this should be done ?
You should replace your water pump with the timing belt service. This is why: The belt from your timing belt turns your water pump if your water pump were to go bad and let's say seize up it could cause your timing belt also to fail. The other thing is that the labor to open everything back up would be a very high cost just to replace the water pump. It makes more sense financially to pay for the replacement of the water pump (30-60 dollars) than to go back in 20k miles into your new timing belt and have to take everything apart again to replace the water pump. The oil pump should not need replacing unless you have a vehicle with 300-400k miles and you are doing a rebuil engine. Use a quality synthetic oil and a quality oil filter and the oil pump should last for the life of the car.
Q: does anyone know the proper way to take the lower gearcase off and install a new water pump kit. it is a 1986.
This is a simple repair but I'd recommend that you get a service manual, ether a factory manual or one of the generic Seloc manuals. The key things to do are mark the trim tab so you can put it back in the same position after repairs. Drain the oil. Removing the bolt that is in the hole at the back end of the upper housing, as well as all the obvious Nuts. both above and under the cavitation plate. Put the drive in forward gear, which takes the tension off the shift shaft. Once all the nuts and bolt are loose. Jiggle the drive and it will separate from the upper housing. You now have access to the water pump housing. Remove the housing and pull it up and off the d. Shaft. Inspect fully and account for missing impeller blades. When you re assemble Lube the impeller and put the drive key in place and put the impeller in place. Slide the housing down to the impeller. You can use ether th drive shaft or the propeller to turn the drive shaft in a clockwise direction as you apply pressure on the housing, It should slide down over the impeller. Reassemble in reverse order. Slide the drive shaft up into the upper housing turning the D. shaft using the prop to turn the shaft. Watch the water tube slip into the guide tube. Once it's in place put a couple nuts on then check the gear shift to make sure it goes F-N-R. Bolt up and fill with oil. Good Luck!
Q: i took off the water pump cover on my 1986 cr 250 and discovered that the impeller wont come off. ive tried turnig it the wrong way and the right way. can someone please tell me how to get it off.
1986 Cr 250
Q: For the past couple days my car has been over heating quickly and there ha been some leaking underneath my car. well I went to start my car today to run to the store and the heating gauge was going up and down from overheating to perfectly fine within seconds...I popped the hood and there was antifreeze spraying on the engine. So my friend that I called said that meant there was a leak in my water pump. The autoshop in town is busy with over cars all day, I already called, and there isn't another shop within 15 miles. I work in 3 hours, and the drive is 30 minutes away. I have no other way to get to work, is it safe to drive my car or should I call in and let my manager know I can't make it? I have been working there almost 2 months and have never been late or called in.
Usually the water pump doesn't spray all over the engine. You might just need to re-hook up one of the hoses and fill it up with coolant mix. You have to look and see where the leak is. I would try to find out what it is but I wouldn't drive 30 minutes away.
Q: I have a 1 HP water pump that will pump water through a 1 and 1/2hose. What is the approx. GPM (just to have a reference) of a pump like this?
The capacity will be limited by the pressure drop. Assume 15-40 GPM depending on the length of the 1 hose. This is provided that the 1 is then split into four 1/2 hoses. Otherwise the flow will be highly restricted by the smaller diameter. The efficiency of a small centrifugal pump is around 50%. The general water pump equation at 50% eff. is HP = GPM psi / 860. So for one horsepower the GPM = 860 / psi Therefore for 20 psi the flow is 43 GPM, at 40 psi it is 21 GPM , at 60 psi it is 15 GPM
Q: i have a 1990 honda accord, 2.2l 5 spd standard, and my water pump went on it, and i was wonder if there is a diagram out there somere on how to replace it or how to take it out, cuz it is in the most stupidest spot ever, if you know were i could find a diagram on how to do so could you please help me?
You don't want to do it. Water pumps that are driven by the timing belts should not be done by amateurs since precise alignment of the camshaft(s), crankshaft, balance shaft, water pump is critical. You should really take it to a trusted mechanic otherwise you can put yourself in a world of hurt if you attempt it on your own. Does the term new engine mean anything for you? Not being rude, just honest.
Q: I brought my car to a shop because I get no heat. The mechanic diagnosed my car as having a blown gasket head because there were hydrocarbons in my coolant. The repair cost was too high, so a I figured I'd just run the car until it broke on me. A month later I see it overheating on the way to work and a month after that it completely powers down (electrically) while I'm driving and I see a lot of white smoke (coolant was all over the engine). After it's had time to cool down I can start it up just fine. I pour coolant in and it comes right back out the bottom of the water pump.Could a bad water pump have been the reason for the hydrocarbons and no heat in the first place? Could it have caused the appearance of hydrocarbons in my coolant? If the head gasket is blown and this is just a symptom, is it cost effective to replace the water pump or will it just break on me again in a short time?
A bad water pump can not put hydrocarbons into the cooling system. I had a blown head gasket on my car and it had hydrocarbons in the cooling system.
Q: I have a four cylinder ranger with manual transmission. The top pulley was making a squeaking sound the other day and stopping and going. The car stalled out so I had to give it gas for about a minute, and this has happened several more times in the past week. And the car is making a somewhat loud rumbling/clanking noise, which I'm guessing is the bearings on the water pump. So my question is how much will a new water pump cost, I've seen prices quoted on here from $150-$700. Also, it was in the mechanic the other week and I asked him to check the ac compressor and he said it was fine.Thanks
A water pump for your truck costs $63 at Autozone. I can't imagine where you got those prices at. Take the belt off and turn all the pulleys by hand. You should be able to tell which one is bad. Water pumps don't have bearings. The shaft just rides in a bronze race.

Send your message to us

This is not what you are looking for? Post Buying Request

Similar products

Hot products


Hot Searches

Related keywords