• Self-priming Jet Pump System 1
  • Self-priming Jet Pump System 2
  • Self-priming Jet Pump System 3
Self-priming Jet Pump

Self-priming Jet Pump

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Loading Port:
China Main Port
Payment Terms:
TT or L/C
Min Order Qty:
10 Sets unit
Supply Capability:
1000 Sets Per Month unit/month

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Self-priming Jet Pump

 

Introduction of Self-priming Jet Pump

 

It contains three major parts, motor, water pump, and sealing parts. The motor is asynchronous type, and the water pump has a unique structure of centrifugal impeller, radial diffuser and jet pipe. The pressurized water flows through jet nozzle to form vacuum atmosphere, and liquid in low water level is sucked into our product, then pressurized and drained. Thus, self priming function is realized. Meanwhile, single mechanical seal is used as the motive seal between motor and water pump, and rubber O ring is used as the static seal for rabbet.

 

Features of Self-priming Jet Pump

 

This jet pump is well designed, and it has compact structure. Compared with similar product, our machine has higher working efficiency as well as quieter and more stable running due to the reasonable structure. When the check valve is equipped, the cavity only needs to be filled with water for the initial use which means that this process is unnecessary for the later applications. On the other hand, our product also features reliable sealing, little leakage, high reliability, convenient maintenance, low running cost, long service life, etc

 

Application of Self-priming Jet Pump

 

Depending on the advantages above, our jet pump is widely used for farm irrigation, sprinkling irrigation for garden, water supply system for vegetable greenhouse as well as water supply and drainage system for breeding industry, and it is also suitable for lifting water from well, tap water pressurizing and other household applications.

 

Working Condition of Self-priming Jet Pump

 

  1. Long-term application pressure: ≤6 bar

  2. Medium temperature: Usually within 0℃~40℃

  3. Ambient temperature: ≤40℃

  4. Relative humidity: ≤95%

  5. Voltage fluctuation range: ±10% of rated voltage

  6. Suction height: ≤9m

  7. PH value of medium: 6.5~8.5

  8. Other requirements of medium: The volume content of solid impurities is within 0.1%, and the granularity should be smaller than 0.2mm.

 

Motor of Self-priming Jet Pump

  1. 2-pole asynchronous motor

  2. Protection rating: IP44

  3. Insulation class: B

  4. Single/three phase motor frequency: 50Hz

  5. Built-in thermal overload protector is equipped with single phase motor.

     

 

 

Q:I need a 12v water pump capable of at least 40psi. The only website that i found is one where you have to order a minimum of 100.
Dude, you're out of practice. What do you mean by small? 12 volt what source? What is your purpose? Blowing imaginary evil fairies away would be so cool!
Q:And my heater works 80 % of the time, Is it still ok to drive if I keep putting water in it?
You can. But I caution it will get worst over time. The unfortunate realty is only make short trips cause it will just start pouring out sooner or later. And then its over. Keep a eye on it. A water pump/timing belt is cheaper than a new van or motor. I think both are required when doing a pump on that one, so I'm guessing that's why we've not fixed it?
Q:My family has a vacation home on the bay side of a small island off the coast of Texas. The house has a water well and uses an electric pump housed in a pump house underneath the structure, which is up on stilts. The house is infrequently used and with the seaside conditions the pump has corroded and will not start automatically. What do I need to do to clean it up so it will function? I do not believe that the motor is damaged.
the problem with the pump not running will be the motor only.....most likely the motor rotor has rusted to the winding core of the motor ....soak it down with wd40 on the inside ...should be vent holes to spray wd40 in...try to find some way to turn rotor ....on some pumps there is a screwdriver slot on the end of the motor...if it still wont run take it to shop
Q:it was fine before the water pump was done garage says it is just a coincidence? but could the water pump effect the heating?
I am going to think your fan is working and switch. If they changed the water pump, they might have broken some debris or sealant that is clogging your heater intake hose or heater core. I would start with finding the intake and return hoes for the heater core and back flush the heater core. Did this to my old truck and the heater worked really good after that. You did not say what year the car was does it have its own belt for the water pump? is that in working order? GL
Q:i have a 2000 chevy malibu (i know it sucks) i fixed the intake manifold gaskets (upper and lower) thermostat and its still leaking and sometimes overheating. my next thought is its the water pump. there's no crack in the radiator or hoses is there anything else that can cause it to overheat besides these. what about vacuum leakage? o2 sensors?
If you carefully squeeze or even feel some of the coolant hoses while the car is running then you will find out if the water pump is working. You should feel the coolant in the hose surging through the hose. You said it's still leaking coolant, but can't you see where it's coming from - then go from there? Are you getting any white smoke out the tailpipe - this would be a possible blown head gasket, a crack somewhere in the engine block or coolant water jackets. All of these would cause the coolant to seep into the combustion chamber and burn off, usually causing unmistakable white smoke (you see these cars on the road sometimes). I also agree with having a mechanic do a cooling system pressure check - this is the best way to tell where or if the coolant is leaking somewhere. They should also be able to diagnose the problem if its something else, and can easily tell if its the water pump too. Instead of wasting your own time and money, maybe its time to see a mechanic. I also like doing my own work, but sometimes you have to throw in the towel and let a reliable mechanic check it out. BTW, a vacuum leak would not cause overheating, but would cause bad idling, surging, bogging, etc. O2 sensors could cause similar problems, but again not an overheat. I hope I'm wrong, but you may have a blown head gasket.
Q:I am trying to evaluate my well water pump and water system to see if the pump is cycling on/off too frequently. What is the optimal quot;ontime? What is the optimal quot;offtime? I have heard the term quot;short cyclingquot;, but no times were attached. I have heard that too frequent cycling can cause a problem, but, again, no times were attached. How can one tell when the system is working within the optimal/normal range, so that no harm is being caused to the system? Thanks.
There is no optimum time. This is dependent on several factors. Assuming you are pumping into a small tank which is pressurized by the inflow of water from the pump (and the pressure also controls the pump) these reasons can be excessive use of water, the air space at the top of your tank has been absorbed into the water over a period of time and the volume of compressed air too small causing the pressure to drop too fast, or you could have leak in your water piping. If there is not enough air space in your tank, the pump will cycle extremely fast. If you don't have a tank, then the above information is incorrect. Good luck.
Q:One month ago, mechanics replaced water pump for my car, 04 dodge stratus, 100000 miles. When I went to get the car, there was big noise coming out from engine. The mechanics told me it was because of sediment in auto oil system and he show me some sediment he took out. I know little about car so I thought he was right. But now the noise changed and engine light came on. I went to firestone to check it. The report said timing jump and cranked. The second day the engine died totally. And I went to another two mechanics. They said the previous one who replaced the water pump did something wrong to timing chain. But that mechanics didn't admit it. What can I do?
You have a good case for small claims court, but you'll have to prove the facts in court, not here on yahoo. 1) Prove that the first shop changed your water pump. (I think there's a good chance that mechanic did, indeed, mess up the timing.) 2) Get something in writing from any subsequent, licensed mechanic who thinks the timing was changed. At 100,000 miles, there's a fair chance your timing chain could have been old, needing replacement, but if the first guy replaced the water pump, that seems the likeliest culprit. Worse, I hope you didn't ruin the motor. Sometimes when your motor is out of time, you can bend a valve or put a hole in the piston. Better get your motor checked by someone who knows what they're doing then consider your options- small claims or the first mechanic's insurance company. If you talk to the insurance company, you should have a lawyer do the talking. Good luck!!
Q:ok water can't sucked up more than 10 M height in normal atmospheric pressure some well s are deep more than 10 M even some water aquifers are deep more than 200 m what are technologies used to pump water to ground level BQ- how is crude oil pumped from far deep oil wells (some offshore oil platform pump oil from more than 2000 m deep ocean and another several hundred meters deep from sea beds )
water can't sucked up more than 10 M height in normal atmospheric pressure. This is why pressurized systems are used.
Q:The leak is in the same area as my water pump, but when I jacked my car up yesterday, I wasn't able see my water pump. It's a 99 Saturn SL1.With the leak, it leaks very slowly, and it only leaks about a few ounces of fluid at a time. It mostly only leaks when I start the engine while its cooled down, and it's leaking down the passenger side of my engine.If it was a bad water pump, would the antifreeze leak without stopping until all of the antifreeze is gone?
So what are you saying, if it is not the water pump your not going to fix it? Find the leak weather you can't see the water pump or not and fix it or just let it leak and ruin the engine, it doesn't matter to me.
Q:My old pump burned up so i recently replaced it (with a refurbished pump) I have new pipe to the pump, new tank. my pump is a 1/2 hp 230v pump, I also replaced the control box. With my pump plugged in and the water coming straight out of the pipe bypassing the tank when I turn the power on I will get water for a minute or so then I won't get water for a minute. This will keep happening. I have checked the switch and when I quit getting water there is still power going to the pump. any suggestions or ideas? bad wiring or bad pump?...I know that there is water in thew well, the pump is located at 100 ft of a 115 ft well and i can see the water level about 10 ft underground.
Your problem may be in the wire feeding down to the pump, the pump starts to run, the torque of the motor turning causes the wire to twist and causes the break in the wire to spread and open the circuit. This stops the pump, pump settles back in to position and restarts, seen this happen a lot. Pull the pump and inspect the wire from top to bottom very carefully.
We have powerful technical force, good equipment, advanced techniques, high-level automatization and a full set of advanced test equipment. We pay attention to product innovation and technical reform meeting ISO9001:2000 standard. With powerful technical force and excellent technical people, we are able to research and develop different kinds of high performance motors.

1. Manufacturer Overview

Location Zhejiang,China
Year Established 1984
Annual Output Value
Main Markets North America
South America
Eastern Europe
Southeast Asia
Africa
Oceania
Mid East
Eastern Asia
Western Europe
Company Certifications ISO 9001:2000;CE

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3. Manufacturer Capability

a)Trade Capacity  
Nearest Port 3,000-5,000 square meters
Export Percentage 81% - 90%
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b)Factory Information  
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No. of Production Lines 3
Contract Manufacturing OEM Service Offered Design Service Offered
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