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I have a 94 Mazda b2300 it was working great last week then all the sudden it started making a knocking sound and started to overheat! Its still drivable but it overheats if i go far! A friend told me it can be the Water Pump so i put a new one, I was told it can be the Thermostat so i had a new one put in. It worked for awhile but began overheating again. My truck is my livelihood so its important i get it fixed! I cant afford a mechanic but just asking to see if anyone knows what it could possibly be? It catches good and the engine sounds strong but it keeps overheating!
Have the radiator wiped clean out. My Mazda truck radiator did a similar ingredient, and that i trust that you've a similar difficulty. in the experience that they could't clean it on the radiator shop, you're able to replace it.
directions on changing water pump 2001 gmc pickup
Changing a water pump is nothing special, just common sense. Drain the coolant and take apart whatever you need to get access to it. The cooling system is sealed off from everything else (like the oil system or example) so there shouldn't be any nasty surprises. Make sure you get a new set of any seals and gaskets with the new pump. However you may have to take off the timing belt to get at the pump, and you need the proper instructions for replacing that. Usually it is not recommended to re-use the old belt. You might be able to save a bit of money by not replacing any tensioner pulleys etc that should be changed when the belt is changed, depending how old they are. If you can afford the extra time off the road, don't buy replacement parts till you have looked at the condition of the old ones. Unless it is actually leaking water, pumps can last a long time making horrible noises (especailly noises at engine idling speeds), so you might consider leaving the pump till the next timing belt change anyway.
vw tells me the pump is defective, bad water circulation. i noticed the fans did not turn on when it began to overheat. is that irrelevant with the pump being defective? i even drop the car cold(i started the engine and drove) within 10mins it began to overheat, but the fans did not turn on. is it just the pump? the fan switch is new, no fuses are blown. the radiator and fans are less than 2 yrs old. 2000 jetta
The fan switch on that car is in the thermostat housing so it would not turn on. It is very common for water pump to fail on those cars. The cooling fans help keep the water in the radiator cool if you r water pump is bad, and us ally what happens is the impeller falls off, no water is moving from the engine to the radiator.
i need the location of the water pump or for the thermostat thank you
The water pump is timing belt driven and is under the plastic timing cover on passenger side. These water pumps have a history of breaking, due to the fact they have a plastic impeller and it shears off the shaft, which causes the engine to overheat. First you want to remove the thermostat and then check the water pump. Follow the lower radiator hose to where it connects to the engine. That flange is where the thermostat is at. After you remove the thermostat you can shine a light in the hole and put your finger in there, if the impellar of the water pump moves, it needs to be replaced. If it does, then you might as well replace the timing belt and tensioner, seeing how you have to remove it to get the water pump off.
water pump on a Suzuki forenzakia optima
You better shop around on that one but you're looking at a few hundred dollars minimum. The newer the car, the more you're going to pay to get it fixed.
What are the parameters of the pump price?
With the flow and head related, the greater the flow rate, the higher the head, the greater the power, the higher the price.
As a fact; I must remove the timing belt in order to remove both camshaft sprockets,then the metal timing belt cover which cover partially the water pump.My main question: Do I have to lift the engine and remove the two water pump studs- Which normally holding the right engine mounting.And where I can rent ,or buy a camshaft locking tool with low price
Yes, I have done at least 100 of these water pumps. You are correct, remove the timing belt, cam gears and rear cover is the easiest route. I have done them without removing the rear metal shield all the way, and only removing the front cam gear as well. You can remove the front cam gear, and all 6 bolts to the rear shield and shift the cover enough to get the pump out from behind the cover. You shouldn't need to remove the water pump studs, but if you do get a set of stud removers. I bought a set from snap on for around $50 or so years ago. Sears also sells a set. You don't need a cam locking tool. You can make one out of a bar with two bolts through it to stop cam from rotating while you loosen the 17mm nut on the cam gear. I usually just use an impact gun on the bolt, and no tool is needed to hold it. Remember, the 1MZ-FE engine is an interference engine, and the timing belt must be aligned perfectly or the pistons WILL hit valves and engine will self destruct. If you are near ILlinois I can help with repairs if needed.
I need to install water pump and need to know the cost already purchase pump
Depends on what engine and drivetrain you have. If it's a v6 rear-wheel-drive, you're probably looking in the neighborhood of about $650 USD. If it's a v8 all wheel drive, then you're probably looking more around $850 USD. That's for a timing belt and water pump replacement at most shops.