• ZLB Vertical Axial/mixed Flow Pump System 1
ZLB Vertical Axial/mixed Flow Pump

ZLB Vertical Axial/mixed Flow Pump

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Summary

Z(H)LB vertical axial-(mixed)-flow pump  is a  new general-eration product successfully developed by this Company by means of introducing the advanced foreign and domestic  know-how and meticulous designing on the basis of the  requirements from users and the conditions of use. This series product uses the latest excellent hydraulic model, wide range of high efficacy,  stable performance and good vapor erosion resistance; the impeller is precisely cast with a wax mould, a smooth and unimpeded surfac e, identical accuracy of the cast dimension to that in design, greatly reduced hydraulic friction loss and shocking loss, a better balance of impeller, a higher  efficiency than that of the common impellers by 3-5%.
Flow:800~200000m /h
Head:1~30.6m
Power:18.5~7000kW
Voltage: 355kW 6kV 10kV
Frequency:50Hz

Extensively used for hydraulic projects,  farm-land  irrigation, industrial water transportation, water supply and drainage of cities and water allocation engineering.


Suitable for pumping pure water or other liquids of the phy-sical chemical natures similar to those of pure water.
      Medium temperature: <50
      Medium density: <1.05 x 10 kg/m
      PH value of medium:between 5~11


ZLB(Q),HLB(Q) series products are all  of  a  vertical  structure and fitted with a vertical motor, With the impeller there are fixed, semi-adjustable and fully-adjustable type. The fixed type means
both impeller  and hub are cast  integrally and the impeller angle is unadjustable; the  semi-adjustable type means the impeller can be turned  to the desired  angle by loosening the fixing screw on it in case the working conditions need to be changed, then fix  all the impellers again; Z(H)LQ is the  fully-adjustable type, that means the impeller angle can be adjusted through a mechanical or hydraulic adjustor with or without stopping.
      Vertical axial-(mixed)-flow pump consists of the pump casing and the actuating part.  The pump casing generally includes water inlet pipe, impeller, guide vane,  pump  shaft,  elbow, middle pipe, sealing unit and clutch.  For both middle and small  pumps,  a water inlet horn is used as the water inlet pipe while, for the large one,  a toggle or bell water inlet passage is used,  poured with concrete and fitted with imported basic parts. The adjustable impelle r is formed with blade(stainless steel or copper alloy,  in general), hub, water guide cone. For the middle and small pumps, both impeller and pump shaft  are connected with  flat  pin and nut whi le, for the large and fully adjustable ones, a flange is used to connect both hub and main shaft. The pump s  guide bearing is a  rubber  one and can be lubricated with going-through water or additional pure water. When lubricated with the going-through water,  it has to be done to supply water for the rubber bearing on the upper side via a water-led pipe and do not  stop until  water comes out of
the pump normally.
      Both middle and small pumps  are directly actuated by a  vertical  motor, the motor is mounted on the motor seat and connected wi th the actuating shaft  via an elastic cluth. Inside of the motor seat there are radial and thrust bearings, lubricated with engine oil or grease; for the one of a bigger power there is a water cooling mezzanine. Large pump is fitted with a large vertical motor, directly mounted on the motor s   basic  beam, and both motor shaft flange and pump shaft flange (hinged hole)  are  linked with bolt.  The axial  force of the pump is borne by the thrust bearing of the  large vertical  motor.
The pump moves clockwise viewing from the motor

Q: All water pump have diferent caracteristics, but it is imposible to overcome a certain hight...what is that hight and why?
It depends on the pump characteristics. It has its suction and discharge head limitations.
Q: :) approximatley how many and where would you buy them :/ :) x peacce dudes
Man you are so stupid. First of all, Africa is not a country, its a continent and there are 53 countries in it. 2nd, Pakistan is not a piss poor country like most of the poor African countries you see daily on TV. Pakistan is a developing country with no shortage of water. In fact, just a few months ago about 30 million people were effected by the worst floods in the country's history. They don't need no water pumps. Worlds 5th and 6th Largest Dams, Mangla Dam and Tarbela Dam are in Pakistan. Not to mention Tarbela is also the world's largest earth-filled dam. Another one, Diamer Bhasha Dam (under construction) when completed would be the worlds highest Roller Compacted Concrete Dam in the world with height of 272 meters, leaving behind Miel I in Colombia (188 meters). Not to mention, Pakistan has the largest irrigation system in the world. So in short Pakistan certainty doesn't need any water pumps donations lol. Whatever water pumps they may need for any purpose, they are perfectly capable of manufacturing themselves. The country made nukes on their own for God sakes! You seem like a good kid though, so if you want to do something for poor people, concentrate on Africa and India. Don't be surprised by India's name because according to UNICEF, India has higher levels of malnourished children than Sub-Saharan Africa and more than 700 million Indians don't have access to toilets whatsoever. They have to relieve themselves in fields or along roadsides, thus creating a hygiene and environmental problem. They would be very grateful to you if you donate toilets to them. :)
Q: Ok, if my intake manifold wasnt mess up and it could be my water pump would I still smell a syrup odor and WHY would it be leaking green antifreeze? especially when the antifreeze I use is orange?
You could have a leak in your heater Hose or Bad Water Pump, Small hole in rad. Do you notice as increase in Temp? Need more info i.e. How old is the car, How hot is it getting etc.
Q: I am having overheating issues with my 1993 3.4L V6 Camaro,Once I start the car with no AC or Heat on while at idle or driving the car will overheat, almost to the red line. When I get onto the highway it will slowly drop all the way down to operating tempeture.Also if I turn on either the AC or Heat while driving around town the car will not overheat.On my way home I turned everything off and let the car overheating, when I got home I opened the hood and the fans are going but still overheating.Also the major sympton is that the water pump will click on and off when I have AC blowing. It will click on and off every 10 seconds or so.New waterpump?
Try a thermostat first. The heater bypasses the thermostat and the engine runs cool. Its a cheap fix and if thats not the fix go with troubleshooting the radiator, colapsed hoses, water pump! Be sure to install it correctly!
Q: it just go? I was told that my water pump had leaked at least for awhile before it went and if it had been in the garage someone competent should have noticed it. Then other people have told me No it just goes.whats accurate?
Check the water-pump weep hole under the input shaft casting. You have to look underneath the pump while the car is on jack-stands or plastic ramps. The weep-hole will show the color of the coolant if it's leaking. It will leak at a higher rate with the engine is running when the cooling system is under pressure than when the car is sitting and the engine is cold. Any trusted private mechanic or new car dealer can see a water-pump leak if you can't lift the car safely to crawl underneath.
Q: how to replace water pump in a 96 F150?
1. drain coolant 2. remove engine fan and clutch assembly 3. remove radiator hose connection at water pump 4. remove water pump 5. clean water pump to engine mating surfaces 6. install water pump with water pump gasket 7. rest of installationin reverse order of removal
Q: All of a sudden I have no water coming to the house/anywhere from the pump/well outside. It's a newer well, good water quantity (Florida...no dry up problems), no sand in water. I'm new to this house and don't know much about the pump stuff. Is there something I should look at or switch on/off. The breaker is ok. Help, I need a shower! :) Oh, there were about 15 ants around some box, but it didn't look connected to the pump...it's a box to the pool filter thing.
And last but not least, is the submerged pump. This pump actually is down inside the well casing. Usually towards the bottom of the casing. If you have to pull it, it involves disconnecting the electrical and plumbing lines, and literally, pulling it up by the chain or pipe. It could be a few hundred feet down. If it comes to this, I'd suggest calling in a plumber or well technician. If you dont like the idea of running down this whole list, then call a plumber, or well technician, and let them chase it down. Good Luck
Q: I was wondering how to replace the water pump in a 94 Plymouth Voyager. Its my moms van and she is scared that they are going to have to pull the motor to get to the water pump to replace it. I dont know so i am hoping one of yall wonderful people do. along with your answers can you give me an estimate of how much it will cost to fix? Please!!!
No need to pull the engine. It's accessed through the wheel well. Best to have a shop perform the work, as it's probably past due for the timing belt to be replaced. Replacing the water pump requires removing the timing belt.
Q: Submersible pump and self-priming pump which is easy to use?
Dive into the water and leave alone
Q: My '95 Ford Ranger has had the sound of a bearing going bad in a pulley for about two months. Finally this weekend I started it up and it must have locked up, the belt was squealing really loud and snapped. So, now the water pump pulley has rubber chunks on it, which would make me think that is the bad pulley. But the pulley spins perfectly, really smooth. The alternator pulley on the other hand does not spin perfectly. It is not really hard to spin, but it does not spin smoothly. And the alternator pulley is real clean, no rubber on it at all. Any thoughts? I was thinking of buying a cheap belt and putting it on there, have someone start the truck and watch under the hood to see which is bad.
Well from your description I would say it's the water pump, as that is where the residue is but if all the pullies are spinning by hand I would suggest gtting a throwaway belt and looking for yourself. Also if you had any overheating problems before than I would lean to the water pump, or if you had any dead batteries or charging problems I would lean to the alternator then. What about the A/C compressor that could also be the problem, so could a tensioner as well. So I stick with my original statement and try to get a cheap belt and look for yourself, just make sure you wear protective glasses so if it does snap you dont lose your eyes actually just be careful when you do it OK!!! Good Luck, Tony

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