200QJ32-119-18.5KW Deep Well Submersible Pump
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Tianjin
- Payment Terms:
- TT or LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
- 99 units unit/month
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For example: 200 qj32-119/7
32 means for borehole diameter not less than 200 mm
(if used in pools, lakes, and mine environment need not consider, as the case may be to add dome simulation wellbore < >).
Q said diving heading letters (pinyin); J well represented by heading letters (pinyin);
32 indicates flow is 32 m3 / h; 119 said head is 119 m; 7/7 said impeller series.
Scope of application
Apply to irrigation, water, garden fountains, landscape, water recycling system, mine drainage, emergency rescue, urban water supply, enterprises and institutions mentioned in underground water. The equipment is low noise, high efficiency energy saving.
Technical parameters:
Outlet diameter is divided into 2 "3" 4 ". The retaining bolt quantity for: 6, models of 12 x 60 (8.8), bolt center distance is 150 mm. For the convenience of users to install and use, factory specially equipped with consistent with the unit outlet companion flange piece (diameter 178 mm diameter 2 "3" 4 "mm thickness of 16 mm) spot welding joint pump by users themselves short tube.
Allow the medium range
1: no impurity in water, chilled water/cooling water, rain water, coal, iron ore, metal, such as underground water, drinking water, mineral water and etc.
2: the allowed working temperature range + 5 to + 25 ℃
3: solid impurity content (mass ratio) is not greater than 0.01%
4: PH value (PH) 6.5 to 8.5
5: the content of h2s is not more than 1.5 mg/L
6: the content of chloride ion is not more than 400 mg/L
7: work units must be completely invasion not water.
The motor parameters
Submersible motor for water lubrication, before use must give motor cavity filled with clean water, (note: be sure to fill or will reduce the service life of the motor) if forget to add water motor will quickly burn out.
Motor protection grade: IPX8
The power supply
380 v / 50 hz, 660 v / 50 hz if customers need special voltage or frequency of special need to inform us in advance.
material
Impeller: cast iron HT200, or tin bronze (grades) such as: ZCuSn3Zn8Pb6Ni1
Pump casing: cast iron HT200, or stainless steel, such as: 2 gr13. 304
Pump shaft: 2 gr13 cold-drawn steel chrome plated or stainless steel (1050 ℃ tempering treatment, strengthen the torque)
The motor seal: rubber sealing o-ring; Sealing machine.
Motor rubber expansion regulating sac.
Equipment advantages
- carefully assembled at the factory to ensure the rapid and reliable field installation
- using multistage impeller, with low noise
- built-in non-return valve, the impact of the prevention and control of water hammer.
- single stage high lift, can reduce the height increase the stability of operation of the whole unit, pump shaft phi 28 mm diameter increased torsional performance of the pump shaft. With natural rubber material is more wear-resisting, bearing and hard bearing shell is equipped with imported materials.
Scope of supply
Submersible pump units (including pump body with submersible motor in two parts), the built-in one-way non-return valve, outlet companion flange, 12 x 60 bolt 6 (8.8), the use of maintenance manual 1, 1 certificate 1 copy of packing list and outer packing.
- Q: Got pump ready and will not pump water. Have tried all things suggested to prime but will not pump water
- all i can think of is it may not want to lift water real high if the intake is way lower than the pump, and be sure the hose is secure and its not sucking air .. if the thing has a plug on top remove it and fill it with water first ..
- Q: I suddenly have this rattle noise whenever the engine is running but it diminishes with speed. It almost sounds like spark knock but spark knock would get worse at speed. It could be the water pump. Would a water pump get louder with speed, or go away as this does? I feel a tiny bit of in-out motion in the shaft but not side to side. Car is a Geo Metro and does have hydraulic lifters.
- check your belt tentioner , ten-shun er. the computer keeps telling me i spelled it wrong
- Q: WATER PUMP, HOSES, 1998 TOWN COUNTRY
- this is just a rought est. but Parts: water pump $129, Hoses $45 Each, Coolant 2 gal $30, hose clamps $ 5. Labor: water pump 1.2 hours @$89 per labor hour = $106, Hoses .4 hours x 2 hoses = .8 @$89 = $71.20 plus a possible cooling system flush $69. So your looking at around $500 bucks.........that is probably a little high Good luck!
- Q: Does anyone know or can show me a picture of the location of the water pump in the '97 Totota avalon please? I'm trying to replace mine.Please and Thank you :)
- Front of engine block, behind fan and driven usually by the crankshaft.
- Q: Here is the deal...*Van over heats*Blows Cold quot;heatquot;*Added coolant and water (nothing happened)*Started van, felt the hoses (no h2o flowing thru)I really think my water pump is out, but I am not sure. Does this sound like my water pump. If so, I plan on changing it myself, how do i find step by step instructions to do so.... I have never done it before, but I cant afford to take it to a mechanic! Thanks for your help!
- I wouldnt just go throwing parts at it not knowing what the problem is. First of all when you start the vehicle you wont feel the water going through the hoses if the t-stat is closed. My suggestion is to take it to a shop and have them check out the cooling system, most shops can do a no obligation diagnostic on that for around 20.00, then when you get the results from that, determine if you want to tackle the job yourself or have it done by a professional. This service for 20.00 should include a pressure test of the cooling system and also a block test to make sure you dont have a bad intake or head gasket.
- Q: I need to fit a booster pump to increase pressure from a gravity fed vented solar water heater (uses vacuum tubes).The problem is that the temperature of the water from the solar panel can be very high - in fact it could boil under some circumstances. It's safe because the system is vented.As the quot;solarwater feeds existing water heaters in the house, diluting the hot with some cold prior to the pump with an automatic mixer valve is not really an attractive option as we want to gather as much hot water as possible.Can anyone tell me where to get a booster pump that can operate at up to 100 Deg C, delivering 2 bar pressure and about 25 liters per minute. Thanks.
- Yes you can as per the other answer . Make sure when you do you dont exceed the Gallons per minute of the cellar pump or you will burn up the pump on your house . Also make sure that the pump in your moms house can only pump up to 50 psi . Most well pumps can pump higher but that is the setting on the presure switch You might be able to change the tank and switch in moms cellar to a bigger presure tank and up the presure on the presure switch and cure the problem that way and not work the well pump so hard by turning off and on so often .
- Q: where would I be able to find information on how to change out a water pump for that specific type of vehicle and year, as well I had got a stain on the body from road work it seems to be cement how could I take spots out without damaging the body's paint? What are my options thanks...
- this is not that big a deal, this engine is 3/4 ths of a chevy sbc 305, which is basically the same as small block chevys from 1955 forward-the good thing is that this can be done quite easily in the car, just remember this engine has a serp belt, so take note of where the belts go and how the pulleys are aligned with all the accessories. DO NOT break the seal on the a/c unit, just take off the compressor and set it to the side, same with the power steering and alt. Once you get through the pulley system, just remove 4 bolts on the front of the pump, remove it, you have already drained the coolant, and keep it, either reuse it or dispose of properly, remove the pump, and clean off the old gaskets from the front of the engine block. Take the old pump with you, get one that is the exact same as the one you took off-do not allow the old pump to be taken by the parts store, buy an all new unit, not a rebuilt, and keep your old one until the new one is installed and functions properly-I know, I am probably overly protective, but many times I have brought home what appeared to be the correct pump, and it did not work, then I did not have my old one to look at to see exactly what i needed...good luck, as far as the paint, well, use a solvent to soften whatever is stuck to the paint, if it in fact is concrete, not cement as that is the powder that concrete is made from, then try a little vinegar, it is slightly acidic, will dissolve the concrete, and the spot can be removed gently, hopefully without chipping the pain-here is the good news, concrete does not chemically bond with paint, so you should have no problem...good luck, be careful.
- Q: I took my 04 Grand Prix to the mechanic for a coolant change. My car had never drip coolant until after the coolant change . I took my car today to the same mechanic and he told me that the problem was the water pump and wants to charge me 70 dollars. Could changing the coolant affect the water pump. Or did the mechanic damaged the water pump on purpose.
- I will try to put this simply. It is very serious. Water cools your engine and without the pump to circulate it, your engine will overheat and very quickly damage itself. Even if you add water constantly, it is not being circulated, your engine will overheat and the new water you will put in will probably instantly boil and rush up into your face. My advice. Don't drive it until you can get it fixed. Sorry, I know this isn't what you wanted to hear, but I am concerned for your safety and I don't want you to wreck your engine and you will if you keep driving it. The damage you can do is like this. The engine overheats and seizes up. This means that the engine parts, pistons and rings have expanded beyond design limits. They break inside and wreak havoc. The crankshaft and big end bearings can seize also. If all this happens, you are looking at a reconditioned engine. Fix your pump. It's cheaper
- Q: Can someone please post a picture of how to find a Water Pump on a 1992 Dodge Spirit with a K2.5L Engine, it would be much appreciated. :)
- yea you might want to post in the maintenance section or dodge section....
- Q: just pulled my well pipe up and installed a new foot valve will i have to fill the pipes back up with water before i can get it to pump
- How To Prime A Pump: (Need: Gallon jug of drinking water, a roll of teflon tape, and an adjustable wrench or a pipe wrench.) A. Unplug pump (or cut OFF breaker box at pump, if one). B. Unscrew (counter-clockwise) the largest (3/4) plug on top of pump head. C. Wrap 2-3 flat turns (clockwise only) of teflon tape on threads of plug. D. Pour water into plug hole until full, and quickly start threads of plug by hand. E. Plug in or turn on pump, and finger-tighten plug (air and water will bubble out around threads as you do so) until pump picks up prime. Then wrench-tighten plug when it does. Repeat all steps, if necessary, until you have full water pressure and pump cuts off on its own. Good Luck!
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200QJ32-119-18.5KW Deep Well Submersible Pump
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Tianjin
- Payment Terms:
- TT or LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
- 99 units unit/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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