Vertical Axial Flow Pump with top Quality
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 unit
- Supply Capability:
- 100 unit/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
You Might Also Like
Vertical Axial Flow Pump with top Quality
Basic Info. of Vertical Axial Flow Pump with top Quality
Model NO.:ZLB
Performance:Wear Pump
Start Up:Electric Pump
Media:Sea Water Pump
Application:Submersible Pump
Type:Blade Pump
Material:Cast Iron
Power:Electric
Structure:Single-stage Pump
Theory:Axial Flow Pump
Assembly:Liquid Pumps
Industry:Fisheries Pump
Export Markets:Global
Product Description of Vertical Axial Flow Pump with top Quality
Performance Range:
Diameter: 250 ~ 2000mm
Capacity: 400 ~ 80000 m3/h
Head: ≤ 30 m
Description of Vertical Axial Flow Pump with top Quality
ZLB type axial flow pump is characterized by its large capacity, low head, etc. It can transport clean water whose temperature is less than 50º C, and also other liquids with physical and chemical properties similar to clean water.
Application Area of Vertical Axial Flow Pump with top Quality
Large-small type axial flow is widely used in agricultural irrigation, water supply and drainage for city, circulation water for thermal power plant, water level for dock, aquaculture, salt field pool and other hydraulic projects. Large type axial flow is mainly used in a large area of agricultural irrigation, interbasin water transfer and drainage for low-lying area, lake area.
Structural Characteristics of Vertical Axial Flow Pump with top Quality
ZL type axial flow pump is vertical structure, and is made up of pump casing and rotating parts.
(1) Pump casing contains inlet bellmouth, impeller parts, diffusor, rubber bearing, shaft, outlet elbow, packing seal etc.
(2) Impeller parts contain impeller seat, blade, compression nut. And static balance test shall be proceeded on the impeller before delivering. When user needs to adjust the installation angle of impeller, users can disassemble impeller parts, unscrew the compression nut, then rotate the impeller to make the blade base line align with the relative angle marks on the impeller seat, then tighten up the nut. If user has no special requirements when ordering, the blade installation angle is 0° When delivering. User can adjust on his own according to working performance curve and parameters.
(3) Pump shaft is made of high quality carbon structural steel(45steel), and surface of journal is plated with hard chrome to improve wear-resistant anti-cavitation performance. Radial support of shaft is born by two rubber bearings(upper and lower). Before starting, clean water shall be filled into the inlet pipe of stuffing box to lubricate the upper rubber bearing, stop it after the water is coming out of pump.
(4) Packing seal is used on the shaft hole of outlet elbow, made up of stuffing box, packing(Oil-immersed asbestos packing), packing gland. Overlook from the coupling end, the rotation direction of impeller is clockwise.
(5) Drive part: User shall confirm the drive type when ordering, according to using requirements and matched power.
Drive type: Direct drive device for vertical motor
(6) Pump outlet accessories are 30° Elbow, straight pipe, expansion joint, diffuser etc, and outlet valve is installed on the end. User can choose accessories according to the actual condition, and makes remark when ordering.
(7) The support of pump: Part weight of pump(Except the rotor part) is born by the foundation that supports pump casing, or born by the beam. Weight of drive device, motor weight and axial force(including weight of rotor part) are born by the floor that bears drive device.
FAQ
Q: Are your pumps protected against dry running?
A: No, unprotected centrifugal pumps are not generally designed for dry running. It is important to give us or your dealer as much information as possible about the system in which the pump is used. Inlet pressure, the type of liquid to be pumped, together with relative density, viscosity and temperature, for example, are required in order to allow CNBM to recommend the right pump with the right gaskets for a long operating lifetime.
Q: How can I get trained on CNBM products?
A: Yes, we provide training courses in our factory (products, general and specific pump technology, hydraulics, and practical applications). Please consult your sales manager or get in touch with our headquarters for more information.
Q: Are your pumps cheaper than those of your competitors?
A: CNBM aims to give its customers the highest standards of quality and service and delivery times, all at a reasonable price.
Q: Do you have self-priming pumps?
A: Yes, our product portfolio also includes two ranges of self-priming pumps: self-priming electric pumps and self-priming side channel pumps.
Q: Is it really necessary to fit a bleed valve for the boxes?
A: It is always best to have a bleed valve as the gas produced by the fermenting sewage is potentially hazardous.
Q: If I increase the power of the motor, must I also increase the power of the inverter?
A: You must select the size of converter that allows maximum absorption of the electric motor.
- Q: We usually wait 4 - 5 minutes for hot water in our master bath. I've been looking into ricirculation pump systems. This would have to be a retro-fit system since some of the lines run through concrete slab making adding a return loop on the line non-feasible. I have found some people comment on simply using a by-pass valve system without a pump (ie. Hot Water Lobster). We do have hard water which I've also read that can present a problem with pumps dieing quite quickly. While I'd like it, I don't need 1 second hot water, but I can't stand wasting gallons waiting for 4-5 minutes. A reasonable 15-30 second wait would be a huge improvement. Has anyone had reasonable success with the bypass valve without the pump or should I plan on getting the pump too? Thanks in advance!
- A by-pass without a pump is going to do nothing. The pump moves the water from the heater to your sink. They do have the under counter heaters, but you need to have them plumbed for gas or have electrical run to them.
- Q: I suddenly have this rattle noise whenever the engine is running but it diminishes with speed. It almost sounds like spark knock but spark knock would get worse at speed. It could be the water pump. Would a water pump get louder with speed, or go away as this does? I feel a tiny bit of in-out motion in the shaft but not side to side. Car is a Geo Metro and does have hydraulic lifters.
- sounds like a pulley or bearing noise
- Q: i have the power max xp652 water pump, 2 inch inlet and outlet, 6.5 horsepower, and says it can reach 100 psi. now i bought the pump so i can use it for my mobile detailing business, the problem is im barely getting 40 psi out the end and its not very much water to wash a car with. Im using a two inch suction hose to get it in, then right after the outlet i reduced it down to 3/4 inch into a 50 ft. garden hose. this only got me 40 psi and the nozzle was basically just spitting it out, so i tried using 50 ft. of 1/4 inch pressure washer hose and it didnt change anything still 40 psi. so please if there is any way i can up the psi, please tell me any ideas are good. i dont know if its just because i reduced it down too quick or if my suction hose is too big. someone who is into hydraulics please help.
- Larger diameter inlet and hose pipes will help reduce the dynamic resistance during spraying.. But it is not clear how you are measuring the pressure. If the nozzle is off and you are measuring 40 lbs of pressure then that is all the pump is producing. This could be that the pump cannot provide the pump cannot pump to that pressure, or that the pressure release valve is set too low. Somewhere there is a valve that lets excessive pressure escape. That is usually very near the pump and it may release the pressure back into the reservoir - so you cannot rely on water spilling out someplace.
- Q: Stop the engine immediately and stop the circulating pump and the condensate pump. What's the harm to the turbine?
- The condensed water is also used to air pumping device, steam seal cooler as cooling water, according to rules of turn.The circulating water is also used to supply cooling water to the oil cooler, and the oil temperature will rise.Hazard: exhaust pipe, condensate pipe will burst tube, low pressure cylinder rising temperature for deformation, rotor (shaft seal) may be deformed.
- Q: Recently my car overheated on my way to work, and so I decided to give it some much needed TLC.I have replaced all in the last week:Spark PlugsDistributor Cap + RotorTiming BeltRelated to the cooling system:Water PumpThermostatAnd the heater still blows hot air so I believe the heater core is fine. Unfortunately even after a couple of radiator flushes the car continues to overheat. I'm considering replacing the radiator because I think it might have too much debris inside to flow properly.I used ZEREX Radiator Super Cleaner but was only able to acheive an hour and a half of driving before my car would not be able to drive anymore. (Supposed to be 3 hours, car temperature began to escalate far beyond what I'm confortable with) I also used ZEREX Radiator Super Flush to no avail.Any suggestions?Car info:Toyota Camry DX 19913S-FE Engine 2.0L I4 1998cc244,500 miles
- is your cooling fan working? my guess is it isnt and thats why you overheat. theres a thermal switch for the fan... that may be bad or your cooling fan motor could be bad
- Q: Could someone tell me the procedure for removing & installing a water pump on 97 buick skylark 3.1L 3100 SFI?
- Water Pump Removal Disconnect negative battery cable. Drain cooling system. Remove air cleaner (if necessary). Loosen water pump pulley bolts. Remove serpentine drive belt. Remove water pump pulley bolts and pulley. Note position of locate tab on top of water pump for installation reference. Remove bolts, water pump and gasket. Installation Apply thread sealant to water pump bolts. To complete installation, reverse removal procedure. Fill and bleed cooling system (fill reservoir and radiator, run engine until upper rad hose starts to become hot. Top off and replace cap) Torque Specs Water pump bolt................89 Inch Pounds Water pump pulley bolt .....18 Foot Pounds
- Q: it was fine before the water pump was done garage says it is just a coincidence? but could the water pump effect the heating?
- What is not working about your heater? Is the air blowing, but it's not warm air? Or is the air not blowing at all? The air not blowing is not related to the water pump. The air not getting warm very well could be related to the water pump. The water pump pushes water all throughout the cooling system- including the heater core- which is where you get your warm air from for your heater. Try what was suggested about running it a while with the radiator cap off to bleed out all air. If that doesn't help, I'd find another mechanic to look at it for you and take their findings back to the folks that put the water pump on. (as a heads up, this also could be an air blend door, which switches the air flow in your car from hot to cold. These doors can get stuck and not give you the air you desire. This would not be water pump related.) :)
- Q: My well water pump runs constantly. The manual says it should kick off at 50 psi, it only gets to 48 (moves to 45 rather quickly, slow to 48). Water isn't an issue. Turned off all water to house, and still gets to 48, so I believe I can exclude leak somewhere in the house.One place I called said it could be a bit of grit in the jet pump when I called. This seems like it could cost big bucks. Could I suggest for the service man to check anything else?
- Some things you could check for yourself. The volume control on the end, middle of the tank. This has a rubber in it and could have a Small hole. Second, the diaphragm that controls the switch may have a ding in it, it would be hard to see or check, listen for any leaks. Make sire you use plumbers putty on all your fittings. If all else fails, call the pump guy.
- Q: My 1998 Dodge Dakota V6 heater only gets warm, I have replaced the thermostat. I have back flushed the heater core. The heater hose coming from near the thermostat gets hot, but the hose coming from the heater core going to the water pump only gets warm. The large hose coming from the thermostat is hot near the engine, but is only warm near the radiator. Is the water pump bad? If I open the radiator cap there is no signs of circulation. How do I check the water pump?Thanks,Gene
- check for leaks in the system, the water pump may show signs of leaks or perhap even make a noise, flush out the radiator, it may be stopped up preventing good circulation, make sure thermostat is installed properly, if there is no signs of leaking,or no noise such a a bad bearing, or water pump not loose when you try to shake it, most likely I would change out the heater core.. and also replace the radiator cap so the system is properly pressurized.
- Q: Hello, I have a 1996 Cavalier and it's got a small coolant leak by the water pump so I figured I'd replace it. I called around a little bit and one quote was $250. I'm sord of handy and have a few hours on Saturday is it that hard? I heard it's just a few bolts? Thanks!!
- The water pump on that vehicle is a ob-centric style that you rotate to create belt tension. This is a bit tricky and some people have broken the pump trying to tighten the belt so be careful. Look at the replacement pump carefully before you attempt to change it, this will give you clues as to how it works.
Send your message to us
Vertical Axial Flow Pump with top Quality
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 unit
- Supply Capability:
- 100 unit/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
Similar products
Hot products
Hot Searches
Related keywords
