Vacuum pump
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Horizontal centrifugal pump
Complies to API610, 682,ISO2858standards
Max pressure: 2.5MPa
Capacity: 0.64~2400 m3/h
Head: 4~250m
Model: IJ series chemical processpump: Horizontal single stage pump
Capacity : 0.64-2400m3/h
T: -20---200oC
Material (For wet parts in contactwith medium): CS, cast iron, 304(0Cr18Ni99ti), 305 (1cr18ni9t), MCU, CD4MCu,316, 316L, 310S, alloy 20#, 904, ta2, Ti/pd (titanium-palladium alloy), Ni(nickel), Monel. Dual-phase stainless steel, etc.
These materials have been selectedas a result of many years of experience in the use of chemical engineeringmaterial, to satisfy the special demands made in pump construction.
Mechanical seal: According tocustomer's requirements
We provide:
1. Mechanical seal---171(A) mechanicalseal (this kind of seal is the national-patented product, patent No. ZL92 220977.4 ) single or dual MS.
2. Dynamic seal.
3. Packing gland seal.
Or other brands.
Coupling: Pin type coupling
Usage:
Soda, paper, salts. Metallurgy,acid-making, petrochemical, fiber, plastic, paper-making, chemical fertilizer.Fermentation, environmental protection.
Please. Visit our web site to getmore information of this
- Q: i replaced the water pump and redid the timing belt. now when i start it, it sounds like one of the cylinder is misfiring and makes a chucking noise. do you have to reconnect everything together to see if thats the problem? the engine worked fine before i replaced my water pump. engine like vibrates at each chucking noise. could it be incorrect timing even when the engine starts fine? or is one of the valves bent which is causing the vibration and noise? i checked teh spark plugs and they are fine could if be bad coils? or is the crankshaft weared out? please help and thanks for you help about my situation.
- Call or go up to your local Mitsubishi dealer, the techs should be able to show you a diagram or tell you where the marks are.
- Q: Can I put in fluid and drive to the Service Station or should I have it towed? The fluid flows out as fast as I put it in. Thanks!
- Have it towed, the $60 towing bill is lot less than a new engine, the 1st thing that will happen is one of the heads will crack, next water will mix in with the oil, next engine stops from overheated. Don't have the car pushed, the newer transmissions won't allow this. Ask if who's doing the repairs can tow it free if they fix it, or cut the cost.
- Q: i replace all the seals on the water pump reinstalled it and the same thing happened... it leaks out the bottom some where and run down the water pump and down the hot side radiator hose... any ideas?
- Chevy 350 Water Pump
- Q: Ok, so I have a 1997 3.8 liter ford mustang. I was driving home from work the other day, when temp gauge started to go up. I brought it to mechanic, and he said it was a bad water pump, due to bad antifreeze. So I am getting a new pump, and an antifreeze flush. My question is that since it overheated, will there be any damage to the engine? The temperature gauge never hit the red, and smoke never came out. I had to drive it for approx 15-20 miles when it started to overheat, and the temp gauge was bouncing from hot to normal.
- All kidding aside, the 3.8 Ford engine was discontinued for a mountain of reasons. When the temperature indicator went into the red zone, you should have shut the motor off and parked the car just like it tells you to do in the glove compartment manual. Lets have a little primer on tour temperature gauge and why the needle was bouncing around: The electrical temperature sensor in one of the cylinder heads is a contact sensor. This means unless it has to touch the coolant all the time it will not send the heat information to the gauge reader on the dash accurately. When the electrical sensor in the cylinder head HAS NO COOLANT TO TOUCH, the dash gauge reads ZERO. In other words the hottest part of the engine was not being cooled all the time. Never drive anything anywhere unless the radiator is filled to the top when the engine is stone cold and the plastic coolant recovery reservoir is at least 3/4 filled when the motor is stone cold.. If the cooling system is leaking as fast as you fill it, TOW the car do not DRIVE IT. Cross your fingers and hope that the valve seats didn't fall out of the cylinder heads.
- Q: I have a 2000 Dodge Stratus and recently had the coolant drained (not quot;flushedquot;, as the mechanic wanted to charge $125 extra for that). Prior to that time I never had a single coolant leak, but since then, I've had the coolant leak out slowly over about a 2 week period of normal stop go traffic. Now the mechanic is saying the water pump is leaking, and that's going to be another $600+ more to fix (over 5 hrs of labor), which I really don't have the money for right now.So two questions.. 1) what could've happened to cause the water pump to suddenly start leaking only after the coolant was drained, when it was fine before that? and 2) should I try using a quot;Radiator Stop Leakproduct? I know people say they can plug up the whole radiator, but if that were the case 100% of the time, you'd think these products would've been made illegal a long time ago.SO realistically what are the chances of it doing more harm than good? I still plan on getting the water pump replaced, it'll just have to be awhile.
- Realistcally you have a 10 year old car, so your water pump has used up its life sorry. Stop leak products are usually a fine powdered aluminum/epoxy mix and NO they won't fix a water pump seal. Old stop leak products were actually better but used asbestos as a leak fix, so the government banned its use. My advice, is to shop around a bit for another price, as it does sound pretty steep. Sorry about your problem. Please remember anti freeze can go quickly, so don't risk an engine overheat at a bad time, carry 2 gallons of spare coolant
- Q: I know that the water pump is belt driven, so it would be easy to connect it to my bicycle. What I am wondering is if I can pedal fast enough to make it work. Does anyone know how fast I would need to pedal to operate the pump?
- Pretty fast. Engines operate at 600-6000 rpm and the pump pulley is a little smaller than the drive pulley, so it is spinning even faster. That said, 600 rpm is plenty fast enough. You can attain that easily by applying pulley to rear tire tread, raising tire off ground and pedaling. To apply bike chain to pulley would give a disappointing water flow.
- Q: I'm using an old Mitsubishi Lancer. Recently I changed my water pump it was leaking.To me it looked like a piece of metal, with a small fan thing (not motorized) How can it fail? There is no mechanics to it, just like a pipe with a fan (or turbine)I also messed with my radiator, I unhooked the main hose to clean out the coolant, since the plug was jammed. Could this have contributed to the failing of my water pump?
- if the plug was jammed then the most likely cause was some type of sealant someone put in the radiator to fix a leak......this is a prime example of why I say never to use the sealers in your engine....... what happened to your water pump is really rather simple......the waterpump (WP) is a simple device that spins and has bearings......the coolant you buy in the store has lubricants in it to keep the waterpump luricated.....the sealer that was put into the cooling system sealed of the passages the coolant uses to lubricate the WP bearings......this created too much friction and wore your bearing out causing the pump to fail!!!!!!......you need to flush the cooling system thoroughly several times to get all the sealer out......even then it will take a little luck and lots of praying for the sealer not to plug your engine water jacket and cause overheating!!! good luck!!!
- Q: 94 f150,302. my pump is still leaking after doin the job twice. its a new pump, the first time i used the red silicone between pump and plate,both sides of gasket,and the housing on the block. leaked. then did it again with high tack gasket cement and still leaks. i cleaned all metal both times with brake clean before installing. same with thermostat housing,small leak. ive done 100s of pumps over the years,no problems, so please no rude remarks on mechanical ability. what could it be? it leaks up front of the motor above the crossmember where ya cant actually see the leak,its not a freeze plug. bolts are torqued. any ideas ? thanks
- never rule out a freeze plug. it could also be a cracked block. it could be in your interest to pressurize the system and trace the leak back to the source. the pump could be fine.
- Q: I just bought a 1997 Honda Civic, done about 85k. There is no record of the timing belt having ever been changed so I want to get this done as a priority. My usual mechanic can't do it for a month due to other commitments so I have been ringing round for quotes, and generally these have all been to change the belt quot;plus the kit- which makes sense, change the lot while you are in there.Surprisingly, the cheapest quote I have had was from my local Honda dealer, however, they have said this is for the belt only as they don't change the tensioner/water pump on this model. Are they full of it? I'm not sure whether to take this as expertise from the car's manufacturer or total BS from some chancer trying to make money from us having to come back when other things go wrong!
- This is a hot topic even among Honda enthusiasts and professionals. The whole deal about changing the water pump, as you probably know, is that the labor to do that is small once the timing belt is out of the way. However - and this is the big issue - most original Honda water pumps last a very long time, even more than 200K miles. Do you feel lucky? One big issue enters here: what sort of antifreeze has been used in it? If it still has Honda antifreeze (dark green in your 1997, as I recall) the pump is probably still good for another 100K miles even if the coolant has not been changed on schedule. If it has conventional (bright) green or some other coolant that is not known to be silicate free I strongly recommend replacing the pump with an OEM pump. See the first source for the reason. In any case, I recommend replacing the water pump with the next timing belt change if you don't do it this time. 300K miles is a lot to ask of a pump seal. I also strongly recommend not going with an aftermarket pump - OEM only. I make a habit of always replacing the pump and tensioner(s). EDIT - Shane A has a good point. If the water pump fails next year the price of a new pump and tensioner will seem trivial. The pain of higher cost is temporary, the peace of mind is lasting.
- Q: Hey guys, I have a American Volkswagen Jetta 1999 manual transmission Gas Fuel, and the water pump is messed and I need to know where it goes. In front of the radiator? or somewhere else? Does anyone know where I can get any websites showing me instructions? Thanks.
- The water pump is driven by the timing belt, so if you don't know what you're doing (no offense intended), I would take it somewhere to have the work done. And if you need a new timing belt as well, you should get that done at the same time since since the labor rates for a water pump and timing belt will be very close to the same, you'll be adding mostly parts cost.
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Vacuum pump
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
- -
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