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FAQ

We bought the tile. Our wall has new drywall behind (unpainted and clean). We are putting the tile from above the backsplash to under the wall cabinets. Can you please answer my questions:1) Do you prep the walls with anything? We bought this tub of stuff called Thinset... Is this the actual adhesive or is there something else used to put on afterward?2) We are doing our longest wall with counter and sink/window then corner and over to counter and stove then counter. Where would the starting point be? Corner or one wall?3) The wall cabinet on the open end is about 1/2 inch in then the base cabinet right below. If we start the tile from the bottom, when you get to the top, the tile will hang out from the wall cabinet by the 1/2 in. Do we use a straight line from the wall cabinet or base cabinet and it be off either way? 4) The tile is not coated or shiny. Once they are applied to the wall and then grouted and wiped clean, do you apply any coating?

you need spacers...( couple $'s a bag, only 1 bag needed..)You need to grout the tile after applying to the wall, wait 24 hrs or as the mortor says....I would recommend a grout sealer- they can be brush on or spray on..the grout will collect dust, grease and be a nightmare to clean ... in bathrooms you normally put backerboard before tile( it is made of concrete and keeps the water from penetrating to the drywall...imagine having to rip out the dryway and re do it....If they are simple sq tiles, no pattern involved, then you can start at the edge/ end...if you want the corners to be 2 perfect sqs meeting- that is where you should start- then you won't have a cut piece butting up to an uncut or two cuts meeting (this is what sounds right for your project) ...you can use the backsplash as a base---to support the tile as it dries. Use painters blue tape to help hold it to the wall until then....do one row all along the backsplash using the backsplash as support and a small piece of tape securing it to the wall until the mortor takes hold..remove the tape to start on the next row up and secure with tape as before... ntinue until done. Use spacers 1/4 to keep things straight...use a level to get 1st row straight, snap chalk line/ draw line... PLEASE- double check your thinset to be sure it is recommended for your size tile and for wall use...the premixed stuff has a tendency to shrink up as it dries (and it stays wet for a VERY long time esp in high humidity/ moist areas)...causing your tile to come free from the surface it is attatched to... I would get a small bag of the real, mix it yourself mortor- it is concrete and dries as such... I have used the premixed stuff and had terrible results. Have fun!

Figure, I was in the indoor shoot, only two lights 600W1200w, brick surface is not bright matt antique tiles, moved to remove the two sides still have, I do not want to shoot good-looking, is to accurately accurate design printing of. Is there any way? Do you have to be back? Polar mirror ok? By the way, what kind of high-reflective polished tiles to shoot?

1, CPL (circular polarizer) is a photography enthusiasts more commonly owned filters, generally used for landscape photography, eliminate unnecessary polarized light, so that the whole picture is more clear, more transparent feeling, it is recommended to find A polarizer mounted to facilitate the maximum elimination of reflective; 2, to eliminate the reflective Polarizer is not omnipotent, pay attention to the direction of your light, try to use soft, or studio and other special auxiliary equipment to shoot, to obtain more general light, try to avoid strong direct light, or day Utilize natural light. No matter what type of light or other light source, pay attention to the direction of the lens with the light direction to adjust to refraction at least. 3, pay attention to the scope of light exposure, if not enough light to fill the light plate, this light is also more soft. 4, white balance should pay attention to the need for accurate metering, pay attention to compensation settings. Otherwise the color of your tile photo may and will actually have a big contrast

I‘m going to be putting in a tile floor in my kitchen (all cabinets and appliances removed). I have done my research and have a good idea of what I will be doing - beef up the subfloor with plywood and lots of screws for rigidity; use cement based self leveler to correct a mild slope; install backerboard or decoupling membrane (not sure which yet) followed by the tile.I have a plan, but plans tend to fall apart after their first run-in with reality. Has anyone run into types of problems they don‘t talk about on DIY network? The types of problems complete the following kinds of sentences: are you f***ing kidding me? You have to do ____ before ___? or dammit, why don‘t they tell you you need [insert name of specialized gadget] on a product that cures in 10 minutes? or boy was I an idiot for doing/not doing [insert critically important but not obvious tiling procedure here].?Much obliged, and thanks for the responses.

Before okorder /. You'll find video tips about tile installation as well as lots of useful information especially if you're installing kitchen glass tiles. Good luck!

I have large granite tiles on my counter that don't go all the way to the edge. Ceramic ones complete the lip. Unfortunately, to get my old dishwasher out from under the counter I had to break some. How do I remove what's left of them without damaging the really nice granite ones? Is there anything else I need to be careful about?

Visit your local flooring company for visual help in understanding how to remove the tiles. There are several tools available that have been developed for just this type of work. Be prepared however to loose a fair amount of the currently undamaged tiles, how many depends upon how careful you are combined with how well they were installed in the beginning. At this point you are hoping for a poor job. Remember however that you can cut down any tiles that you have the pieces of and make a new mosaic out of them. Broken tiles are never a complete loss.

We have not picked out the tile yet, is one type better or worse/easier or harder to install?

Ceramic tile is a lot harder to work with than linoleum or vinyl tiles. A reputable store will assist you and answer all your questions about installation when you've picked the tile you want. Take accurate measurements now.

Which tile is best Porcelain or ceramic for a concrete floor?

This Site Might Help You. RE: What is the best tile for concrete basement floors? Which tile is best Porcelain or ceramic for a concrete floor?

My friend‘s bathroom floor is light-colored marble tile. His new navy blue shower mat bled navy dye and stained the tile. It‘s pretty soaked into the tile and won‘t wipe off. Is it a lost cause to try to remove it, or does anyone have any ideas to get the stain out? Thanks a lot!

Mop okorder /

I‘m assisting my friend with a property renovation and I need to know with tiles to buy. Can you guys help me out?

Ceramic or a vinyl tile in a property renovation? Vinyl tiles , I d use a VCT or a pure , color all the way through tile. Proper maintenance and keeping in sealed and polished is the way to make this tiles last a long time.. Ceramic tile work great too but the cost and installation product will add up but the tile will out last almost any thing for durability. The slip rating I d suggest nothing less than a 4.. And BTW.. Grout is a lot cheaper per s/f than any average tile, so don t let that bother you. Proper installation is the key to a long lasting ceramic til job. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL