Stainless Steel Horizontal Single Stage Centrifugal Pump
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 set
- Supply Capability:
- 1000 set/month
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Stainless Steel Horizontal Single Stage Centrifugal Pump
Applicable medium
A. Thin and clean non-flammable and non-explosive liquid without solid granules and fibers.
B. Mineral water, soft water, pure water, edible vegetable oil and other light chemical mediums.
C. When the density or viscosity of to-be-conveyed liquid is larger than that of water, it is necessary to select a driving motor of high-power.
D. Whether a specific liquid is suitable for the pump depends on many factors, among which the most important ones are chlorine content, pH value, temperature, solvent and oil content.
Pump
Motor
A. TEFC motor 2-pole
B. Protection class: IP 55
C. Insulation class: F
D. Standard voltage,
50 Hz: 1*220-240V
3*220-240V/380-415V
60Hz: 1*220-240V
3*220-240V/380-415V
E. Single phase motor (max): 2.4kW
Operation condition
A. Liquid temperature:
Normal temperature: -15oC~+70oC; Hot water type: -15oC~+110oC
B. Ambient temperature: Up to +40oC
C. Max. Operation pressure: 10 bar
D. Max. Inlet pressure is limited by max. Operation pressure.
Model description
CHL4-30
CHL: Light horizontal multistage centrifugal pump (glow passage components stainless steel 304 or 316)
4: Rated flow (m3/hr)
30: Stage× 10
________
CHLK4-30
CHL: Light horizontal multistage centrifugal pump (glow passage components stainless steel 304 or 316)
K: Stainless steel air-conditioning pump
4: Rated flow (m3/hr)
30: Stage× 10
Model | CHL2 | CHL4 | CHL8 | CHL16 | CHL8 | CHL16 |
Rated flow(m 3 /h) | 2 | 4 | 8 | 16 | 8 | 16 |
Flow range(m 3 /h) | 1~3.5 | 1.5~8 | 5~12 | 8~22 | 5~12 | 8~22 |
Max pressure(bar) | 5.5 | 4 | 5 | 4 | 5 | 4 |
Motor power(kw) | 0.37~0.75 | 0.37~0.75 | 0.75~2.2 | 2.2~3 | 0.75~2.2 | 2.2~3 |
Temperature range( o C) | -15~+110 | |||||
Max efficiency(%) | 46 | 59 | 64 | 70 | 64 | 70 |
Outlet | G1 | G1.25 | G2 | G2 | G1.5 | G1.5 |
Inlet | G1 | G1 | G2 | G2 | G1.25 | G1.25 |
- Q: i took off the lower unit to fix the gears. im not sure ill be able to put it back on with out knowing how things work in there.so how exactly does the water get pumped. and what does it have to do with the gears, because even though the prop wasn't turning, the water was still pumping.thanks.
- did you put the dot of adhesive on the Keyway to hold it from slipping out of place ? Are the pump plates worn around the impeller ? If you just replaced the Impeller and NOT the whole housing, and plates, that is NO GOOD, you must replace the whole unit.
- Q: I just posted another question a few minutes ago, but not really much help with the one answer I got. I'm now sure that what part I'm feeling on the back of the engine block is the water pump on my 97 Grand Am 2.4L twin cam POS car. I somehow got my hand back there enough to take pictures to see what I'm feeling. Noticed in one of them that there is a bolt missing! This area was very wet with coolant. Would this bolt missing cause the pump/cover to leak? Makes sense to me. If all the bolts aren't there, then there wouldn't be proper seal, right? Had this engine put in a few months ago. The guy who did it seemed to miss a lot of things.
- A missing bolt can definitely cause it to leak. The water pump needs to be torqued to specs and evenly all the way around to be leak free. Miss a bolt and it won't be sealed properly.
- Q: Which is the better option for a home water pump? a submersible pump or floor based pump?
- In case of pump failure, it's much easier to repair/replace a floor based pump plumbed with isolation valves and unions. I've replaced a few due to motor failures and flood damage. Arguably, the submersible pump wouldn't have suffered damage due to flooding. Another consideration is vertical pump height. A floor based pump has to draw a vacuum to induce water to flow up to the impeller. This limits the practical draw to between 25 and 30 ft. Much more than that height and the vacuum will exceed the vapor pressure of the the water, boiling it rather than pumping it. A special device can be used to boost the lift: an ejector is placed down the well. Water is pumped down to the ejector, which pulls additional water back up using the venturi effect. This method suffers from additional friction losses but has clear advantages. If you need to pump water up a well more than 20 feet vertical, you should consider a submersible pump, particularly if you are concerned about the possibility of the water table lowering.
- Q: What does water pump mean?
- The pump is the pump, and pump the water where you want it
- Q: I have a 2001 2500HD duramax and it is leaking antifreeze under the truck. I leaks a a drop every second what could be causing this
- If you can narrow down the location to being from the actual water pump and not a line, It would be the seal in the water pump. The only option is to replace the water pump.
- Q: In case our electric goes out we would like to be able to run the water pump (for the well) via solar panel. Can you give me instructions, pitfalls, recommendations, links etc to help me get started?The more solar info i can get the better!thanks 10 points on offer!Our sunlight is unobstructed
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- Q: The water pump on my 1997 corolla has been leaking, I want to replace it by myself. I did some research online, and get the diagram of the engine structure. It seems to me it is not very hard to do, but who knows, it might end up being a very tricky job. Did anyone replace the water pump on 97 corolla before? How difficult was it? Two things I actually worry: 1. It might be hard to unbolt the water pump pulley, because there is little room insert a wrench. 2. Also, because of the lack of room, it would be also hard to unbolt the timing belt cover (the 2nd/middle cover). A shop gave the quote of $440 to replace the water pump, and I think I should be able to do it myself.
- You'll need to have a 1/4 drive short extension and 10mm socket to get the t-belt covers off. Also be sure to loosen the water pump pulley's 4 10mm bolts before removing the alt/ac belt to ease getting the pulley off. Your also going to need to support the engine when you take off the motor mount to gain access to the t-belt. Good luck and hope this helps. The hardest part of the job usually is getting the p.s. belt loose due to it's location while doing the job on the ground. Also you may want to invest in a repair manual so you line the marks up correctly, it's imperative that you have them exactly lined up.Good luck and hope this helps.
- Q: the water pump from the factory has an extra hole coming out the side its the smaller one on the end of this pic.
- i've always gone by the 30 second rule. even a NEW or emptied for winter motor that must completely fill, 30 seconds should be long enough. if it hasnt begun pumping by that point, i turn it off and give it some time to cool while i double check everything. then i might give it a full 45 seconds. but it wont overheat in less then a couple of minutes. and if its not pumping with the hose hooked up, the impeller is probably bad already anyways. however, if you do even get it near warm, its already hotter then you think it is where the heat is produced, the cylinders, and where you have tight clearances on fast moving parts, the cylinders and pistons. and if it gets too hot, major damage is quickly done. BTW, service period on a merc impeller is always 100 hours or 3 years. or NOW, before the motor is damaged, if unsure of when it was last done. when the impeller is less then $50 (and about an hour labor, if paying for it) and a new motor is THOUSANDS, you cant replace it too often. dennis, you have NO clue. i suggest getting one before you ruin the motor in your own boat. and in the meantime, keep your bad advice to yourself.
- Q: I have a well that is 6inch and down 250 ft. It use to be used to water our grove. The submersible pump went bad and I had it pulled and capped. I was wondering since the water level in the pipe is around 6 feet down, can I install an above ground jet pump to feed my house? Could I just go down around 30 feet and pump with the above ground jet pump instead of using the submersible pump? tks for any help..
- yep hook up a shallow well pump with a head of around 30 feet
- Q: HelloI am building a small budget underground room. On top of a very waterproof and airtight (besides vents) building, and running a dehumidifer inside, I would like to install a pump underneatth the foundation to suck out water from the soil surronding the building but I'm not sure what kind of pump would be best?Also how would b e the best way to set this up?
- What you want is called a sump pump. Most have a system built into them that is triggered by rising water. The idea is to have a hole beneath that allows the inevitable water that will collect a place to go, then when a certain amount gets in the hole, the sump pump comes on and pumps it out to wherever you have the hose or pipes ran to. Being underground, good luck keeping the humidity level down. It won't be easy, and much depends on where your natural water table is, and what it is during rains. Someone in your area might know all that, I don't.
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Stainless Steel Horizontal Single Stage Centrifugal Pump
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 set
- Supply Capability:
- 1000 set/month
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
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