Horizontal Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump
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- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 set
- Supply Capability:
- 1000 set/month
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Horizontal Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump
CHL/CHLK/CHLKF(T) serial light-duty stainless steel horizontal multi-stage centrifugal pumps are non-priming horizontal multi-stage centrifugal ones made by absorbability of world's advanced technology and design, including subsection type and cylinder type. With horizontal motors and quickly equipped mechanical seals, it is convenient for components replacement. They can be applied to slightly corrosive medium due to the flow passage parts made of stainless steel (304) and are substitutes for CH of the same kind used in abroad, warmly welcomed by users because of their high efficiency, low energy consumption, reliable quality and wide applications.
Feature:
1. Tremendously improve performance and enhance product life due to adoption of excellent water power model and advanced making techniques.
2. Enhance operating reliability and conveying medium temperature because of the use of horniness alloy and fluorine rubber mechanical seals.
3. Applied to slightly corrosive medium due to flow passage parts made of stainless steel after process of pressing and welding.
4. Compact structure, small size, light in weight, low noise, remarkable energy saving, easy for overhaul and maintenance.
5. To avoid damages from dry rotation, lack of electric phase, over-load etc because aptitude protector can be equipped on users' request.
6. Axial inlet and radial outlet, attached with long shaft electric motor.
Application:
1. Air-conditioning system
2. Cooling system
3. Industrial cleaning
4. Water treatment (Water purification)
5. Aquiculture
6. Fertilizing/metering system
7. Environmental application
8. Other special applications
Working Condition:
1. Medium temperature: -15oC ~ +120oC
2. Max ambient temperature: +40oC
3. Max ambient pressure: 10bar.
4. Advisable to use motor of higher power in case that the density or viscosity of medium is above that of water.
Medium:
1. Thin, clean, non-flammable, non-explosive medium containing no granule or fibre.
2. Such as mineral water, softened water, pure water, clean oil and other light chemical medium.
3. Slight corrosive medium.
Motor:
Full-enclosed ventilating two-pole standard motor
Protection class: IP55
Insulation class: F
Standard voltage (50Hz): Single phase 220V
Three- phase 220V/380V
- Q: Have a Toyota RAV4. About 156, 000 miles on it.Yesterday as I started driving, there was a sound coming from underthe hood that sounded similar to a stick in bicycle spokes. Got to theend of the block and stopped and noticed there was smoke comingfrom below the belts.Got back to the house and the temp was up really high. No fluid.Added fluid and water and it was leaking, but not from the radiatoritself, but from towards the back of the engine?Might this be the water pump?
- yes..very well maybe waterpump. i sugest you check,and change pump,timing belt,belt tensioner and idler as well..
- Q: I'm looking for a high pressure water pump ,preferably submersible, between 80-100 psi.
- go you five and six show room only prospects of high pressure of toll pump or submersible menu check if you like buy no like no buy
- Q: Is it normal for my sump pump hole to be empty. No water in there.. ??
- yes the ground water in your area is draining back into the ground away from you which is what you want
- Q: it was fine before the water pump was done garage says it is just a coincidence? but could the water pump effect the heating?
- What is not working about your heater? Is the air blowing, but it's not warm air? Or is the air not blowing at all? The air not blowing is not related to the water pump. The air not getting warm very well could be related to the water pump. The water pump pushes water all throughout the cooling system- including the heater core- which is where you get your warm air from for your heater. Try what was suggested about running it a while with the radiator cap off to bleed out all air. If that doesn't help, I'd find another mechanic to look at it for you and take their findings back to the folks that put the water pump on. (as a heads up, this also could be an air blend door, which switches the air flow in your car from hot to cold. These doors can get stuck and not give you the air you desire. This would not be water pump related.) :)
- Q: Please specify the reason, the more detailed the better, the head is the pump 1N fluid on the work done, when the flow rate increases, the shaft power increases, but it does not necessarily have to do with the head of the relationship
- When the power increases to a certain extent, can not be increased, so when the flow increases, the head can only be reduced
- Q: For what reasons can water pump in car break? Thanks
- Mechanical water pumps break because they have a shaft that goes directly into a water pump housing. That shaft is driven on the outside by the accessory drive belt. on the inside of the water pump housing their is a impeller(a disk like that of a old mill house in the forest next to a stream). between inside the pump housing and outside there is a rubber seal to keep the coolant in. Because the rubber seal is exposed to heat drying occurs on the outside causing the rubber seal to on day get hardened. On the inside the hot coolant keep the seal pliable and soft. when air gets inside the coolant system with water it causes the seal to dry on the inside of shaft seal. When heat is on both sides of the seal exposed to air cracking occurs faster causing the seal to crack all the way through and spill water. Electric water pumps for cars are some of the most compact and powerful water pumps around for their size. Due to the extreme under hood temps and the constant turning on and off to save gas the electric water pump for cars have a short life. It used to be electric water pumps were only used in the drag race area; due to electric failure. Not until recently have companies started to deploy them among small cars and also as secondary pumps for turbo and supercharger applications with having a main water pump being mechanical.
- Q: Hi, my water pump isn't working in my rover 400i V reg 99 model......does anyone know where under my bonet this is located and whether it's easy done at home?
- water pumps are never an easy fix. most the time you have to take the fan off, and the radiator as well so a person has room to work. MOST water pumps are in front of the motor, towards the bottom. If you follow your radiator hoses you will find it.
- Q: i'm changing the tyming belt the vehicle has done 120,000 km should i replace water pump as well
- no set mileage. no service interval for that above a visual inspection. should i replace water pump as well YES!!!!!!!!! water pumps are a consumable item. don't wanna do that much labor again soon. i strongly suggest you pay the extra bucks and get a toyota AISIN pump. it will last longer than any after market one hands down. do check for a front main crank seal leak as well. it's part of the oil pump. personally, if it were me, i'd do all three. belt, pump (from toy will be pricey, but worth it), and reseal kit for the front main (is 10-15 bucks and not much more labor).
- Q: I just bought a 1997 Honda Civic, done about 85k. There is no record of the timing belt having ever been changed so I want to get this done as a priority. My usual mechanic can't do it for a month due to other commitments so I have been ringing round for quotes, and generally these have all been to change the belt quot;plus the kit- which makes sense, change the lot while you are in there.Surprisingly, the cheapest quote I have had was from my local Honda dealer, however, they have said this is for the belt only as they don't change the tensioner/water pump on this model. Are they full of it? I'm not sure whether to take this as expertise from the car's manufacturer or total BS from some chancer trying to make money from us having to come back when other things go wrong!
- This is a hot topic even among Honda enthusiasts and professionals. The whole deal about changing the water pump, as you probably know, is that the labor to do that is small once the timing belt is out of the way. However - and this is the big issue - most original Honda water pumps last a very long time, even more than 200K miles. Do you feel lucky? One big issue enters here: what sort of antifreeze has been used in it? If it still has Honda antifreeze (dark green in your 1997, as I recall) the pump is probably still good for another 100K miles even if the coolant has not been changed on schedule. If it has conventional (bright) green or some other coolant that is not known to be silicate free I strongly recommend replacing the pump with an OEM pump. See the first source for the reason. In any case, I recommend replacing the water pump with the next timing belt change if you don't do it this time. 300K miles is a lot to ask of a pump seal. I also strongly recommend not going with an aftermarket pump - OEM only. I make a habit of always replacing the pump and tensioner(s). EDIT - Shane A has a good point. If the water pump fails next year the price of a new pump and tensioner will seem trivial. The pain of higher cost is temporary, the peace of mind is lasting.
- Q: I would like a website that has pictures but any info would be helpful...
- If its a 2003, you should still have a warranty on the powertrain unless its over 50,000 miles, or so. If indeed the water pump is leaking, you'd be foolish to leave it go; the timing belt can get wet, the belt and jump time and cause engine damage, that would be very expensive!! Save your self a lot of grief later by going ahead and replacing the water pump now; if you feel you're not up to the job, then have someone who knows VW's do it for you. Also replace the timing belt at the same time. An attempts to try and do a temporary measure will be met with an expensive result; a leaking water pump can also suck air into the cooling system and cause a hot spot, which could blow the headgasket, especially on a turbo model VW. Sorry, to tell you this, but its better to fix it now and save money, time, and pain later. I spent 25 years on/off in VW dealership service departments from 1980 till Dec of 2005. A car nut.
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Horizontal Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 set
- Supply Capability:
- 1000 set/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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