• Horizontal Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump System 1
  • Horizontal Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump System 2
  • Horizontal Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump System 3
  • Horizontal Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump System 4
  • Horizontal Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump System 5
Horizontal Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump

Horizontal Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
1000 set/month

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Horizontal Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump

CHL/CHLK/CHLKF(T) serial light-duty stainless steel horizontal multi-stage centrifugal pumps are non-priming horizontal multi-stage centrifugal ones made by absorbability of world's advanced technology and design, including subsection type and cylinder type. With horizontal motors and quickly equipped mechanical seals, it is convenient for components replacement. They can be applied to slightly corrosive medium due to the flow passage parts made of stainless steel (304) and are substitutes for CH of the same kind used in abroad, warmly welcomed by users because of their high efficiency, low energy consumption, reliable quality and wide applications.
Feature:
1. Tremendously improve performance and enhance product life due to adoption of excellent water power model and advanced making techniques.
2. Enhance operating reliability and conveying medium temperature because of the use of horniness alloy and fluorine rubber mechanical seals.
3. Applied to slightly corrosive medium due to flow passage parts made of stainless steel after process of pressing and welding.
4. Compact structure, small size, light in weight, low noise, remarkable energy saving, easy for overhaul and maintenance.
5. To avoid damages from dry rotation, lack of electric phase, over-load etc because aptitude protector can be equipped on users' request.
6. Axial inlet and radial outlet, attached with long shaft electric motor.
Application:
1. Air-conditioning system
2. Cooling system
3. Industrial cleaning
4. Water treatment (Water purification)
5. Aquiculture
6. Fertilizing/metering system
7. Environmental application
8. Other special applications
Working Condition:
1. Medium temperature: -15oC ~ +120oC
2. Max ambient temperature: +40oC
3. Max ambient pressure: 10bar.
4. Advisable to use motor of higher power in case that the density or viscosity of medium is above that of water.
Medium:
1. Thin, clean, non-flammable, non-explosive medium containing no granule or fibre.
2. Such as mineral water, softened water, pure water, clean oil and other light chemical medium.
3. Slight corrosive medium.
Motor:
Full-enclosed ventilating two-pole standard motor
Protection class: IP55
Insulation class: F
Standard voltage (50Hz): Single phase 220V
Three- phase 220V/380V




Horizontal Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump

 


Q: im attaching a motor from another filter onto my homemade filter. but i dont want to have to run a cord all the way from the pond to a powerplug. does anyone know of another way to such water into a filter without using electricity? some kind of siphon?
1. I had an electrician put a buried cable in the ground coming up to a weatherproof post with outlets and an on-off switch. It was not as expensive as I thought it would be. 2. You can put the water pump and filters by the house or even inside and run buried water pipes out to the pond, or just put the pump inside and have the filter by the pond which would run by water pressure or gravity. 3. A windmill or solar panel. A siphon uses potential energy stored in the water to work. Once the water has dropped through the siphon, there is no more energy to draw from and the siphon stops. A windmill or solar panel could provide the power to lift the water back up and make the process continuous, or at least while it's windy or sunny. However when pricing these two options even though they would be very cool if you have the large yard to accommodate them, they turn out to cost much more than either 1. or 2. and have much higher maintenance costs associated with them. 4. If it's a very small pond, you can get a solar powered filter/fountain that looks like a floating plastic lily pad. My son had one of these, but it only worked on the sunniest of days, and lasted one summer before wearing out. If you add a large block of filter foam over the intake it may last a little longer. Rinse it out two or three times a week.
Q: yesterday the electric went out for a while we had some big storms and now the water doesnt work, the pump is running but there is no water coming out, i need help on how to fix it, please. hurry
You might need a new foot valve. That keeps the water from draining back into the well. Depending on what type of pump you have, could be at the bottom of the well. To bleed the well, you need to remove the plug on the motor...it looks like a nut...about 3/4. You remove that and fill with water...when its full, turn the pump on and keep filling it till it gushes out...put the plug in (with new teflon tape) and it should work. Be careful not to touch the electrical, could get shocked. Its easy if the foot valve is good.
Q: i have a well that i am trying to pump and i need to have one pump to bring the water up from the well, and one pump to take it out to our lawn. i just wanted to know if i could hook the irrigation pump directly into the well pump, or if that would be damaging to the pump?thanks!
You can always use demand pumps to do the job. This way they just sit idle and wait on the call for water before they go to work.
Q: What is the difference between a High Flow Water Pump, Heavy Duty Water Pump or and Electrical Water Pump for a street rod? I have a 77 Camaro with around 410hp with the factory A/C. The Camaro is stock as body, frame and interior. I want to enjoy the car vs racing it. I would like to go on trips to visit family out of town which is around 300 miles and be able to drive the car with out having over heating problems.
High flow is just that. It flows more coolant than stock Heavy duty is one with alittle bigger impeller shaft and disk Elec. water pump runs on 12 volts, no belt You should not use an elec water pump on a street car, those flows less coolant and do not last as long. I recommed a Milidon high flow water pump for yours. I'm running one of those, a summit 31x19 alum rad, and a ford turus 2 speed elec. fan on a 500 HP engine in a camaro and never have any cooling probs.. Even on 6 hour one way non stop trip in 90-100* weather during the summer
Q: i learned from wikipedia that the water pumps back to reactor where it is heated again and the cycle begins again. but then i saw this diagram
Its clear enough. The water is heated and changed to steam in steam generators. Then the steam is used to turn the turbines to form energy. The steam is then condensed using cold water. The condensed steam or water is then 'pumped back to the steam generator' to create steam and the cycle continues. Need any more help ? feel free to mail me.
Q: does anyone know the proper way to take the lower gearcase off and install a new water pump kit. it is a 1986.
This is a simple repair but I'd recommend that you get a service manual, ether a factory manual or one of the generic Seloc manuals. The key things to do are mark the trim tab so you can put it back in the same position after repairs. Drain the oil. Removing the bolt that is in the hole at the back end of the upper housing, as well as all the obvious Nuts. both above and under the cavitation plate. Put the drive in forward gear, which takes the tension off the shift shaft. Once all the nuts and bolt are loose. Jiggle the drive and it will separate from the upper housing. You now have access to the water pump housing. Remove the housing and pull it up and off the d. Shaft. Inspect fully and account for missing impeller blades. When you re assemble Lube the impeller and put the drive key in place and put the impeller in place. Slide the housing down to the impeller. You can use ether th drive shaft or the propeller to turn the drive shaft in a clockwise direction as you apply pressure on the housing, It should slide down over the impeller. Reassemble in reverse order. Slide the drive shaft up into the upper housing turning the D. shaft using the prop to turn the shaft. Watch the water tube slip into the guide tube. Once it's in place put a couple nuts on then check the gear shift to make sure it goes F-N-R. Bolt up and fill with oil. Good Luck!
Q: i was coming home from from work and my jeep thew the serpenteen belt and my water pump is the only pulley not moving good like the rest and is leaking coolent. and people with just dump **** to say dont comment on this
With either engine your jeep cherokee would have a 2.5 or 4.0. Both have the same pump, and the 2.5 would be easier because you would have more space from the smaller engine. But there not hard to replace. A repair manual would be help full if you have never replaced a water pump before.
Q: I need a water pump gasket for my mustang water pump.What can I use if I have no gasket material?
Water Pump Gasket
Q: hi, how long does the water pump last on e65 chassi 745i (miles)
Usually car manufacturers estimate that most car parts (like a water pump) would last the warranty period and this means 40k to 50k miles. Original water pumps from dealers which are installed during car repairs are usually warrantied for 2 years. Of course this can be voided by driver abuse such as overheating the car or low coolant level.
Q: Im replacing the water pump in my 1992 toyota celica, and i cant get the pully off! i have been working hard for like an hour, i took the belts off. all i have is good old fashoned sockets and crescent wrenches. do i need to get the pully off? and is it lefty loosey and righty tighty or righty loosy lefty tighty?? because sometimes i hear they reverse it. thanks- jordan
I am sure you would have to get the pulley off in order to access the bolts holding the water pump on. Is there not 4 bolts holding the pulley on? I agree with Don below here. My experience with toyota water pumps was with my 1986 toyota pickup where the pulley did come off after removing the fan.

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