• Energy Saving Hot Water Circulation Pump, Low Consumption Pump, Class A Intelligent Pump. System 1
  • Energy Saving Hot Water Circulation Pump, Low Consumption Pump, Class A Intelligent Pump. System 2
  • Energy Saving Hot Water Circulation Pump, Low Consumption Pump, Class A Intelligent Pump. System 3
Energy Saving Hot Water Circulation Pump, Low Consumption Pump, Class A Intelligent Pump.

Energy Saving Hot Water Circulation Pump, Low Consumption Pump, Class A Intelligent Pump.

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Loading Port:
Ningbo
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
-
Supply Capability:
5000 set/month

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Specifications

circulator pump, wet rotor type, 304S.S.
no noise <45dB(A), no leakage, environment friendly, easy installation

Class A intelligent hot water circulation pump

This circulation pump especially designed for heating system and used to supply water

and add pressure for mansions of city,villa of subarb,house,to match with industrial equipment,

to supply water in cycle for cooling air-condition,boiler and solar energy,suppy hot andwater and keep warm cycle.

Construction Material

  • Motor wire:copper

  • Motor shell: aluminium

  • Rotor can: stainless steel 304

  • Impeller: PP

  • Pump body: cast iron

  • Shaft: ceramic/S,S

  • Bear: ceramic/graphite

Technical Data

  • Liquid temperature range: -10 - 110°C

  • Pipe size: G1.5", DN25mm

  • Port to port length: 180mm

  • Max. operating pressure: 10bar

  • Pressure stage, pipe connection: PN10

Electrical Data

  • Max input power.: 45W

  • Mains frequency: 50Hz

  • Rated voltage: 220V

  • Max flow:52l/min

  • Max head:6m


Q: I've been noticing a difference in the temperature gage lately. The quot;change oillight has also been coming on and I just had an oil change not even a month ago, and the car isn't even due back for at least another month. I noticed there's a green/blue liquid in my driveway today, too. I looked under the car and something is leaking or dripping around the passengers side front wheel. More so the passenger-middle side. I've been told it could be the water pump.
Don't go blowing cash on a water pump just yet; It may be just a leaking radiator or heater hose. It would be wise to change the thermostat and check the condition of the coolant. (right here before summer) Perhaps pressure test the cooling system...that will tell you right away if the impeller seal is bad in the water pump. Check the radiator hoses at that time... replace as necessary. if your (assumed) coolant leak is right around the passenger front wheel the pressure test could possibly reveal a freeze plug leak. (replacement required to fix that) The labor will cost around $150 plus/minus $20.-and thats not even a good guess. I tell you this: if you were in my circle of friends, I would do it for nothing: Thats what people do for each other. Anybody that knows you that has the tools and ability should do the same... Try this: if you have your oil changed at a quick lube, ask the manager which one of his guys would be qualified for such a sidejob... any gearhead will jump at he chance to help a lady out make sure the job is done right instead of some greasemonkey f*cking it up. It will cost you much less than standard labor rate and the extra coinage in his pocket doesn't hurt. I'm not bagging repair shops, they deserve to make a living too, but every nickle counts nowdays... Let him diagnose the problem(s), take him to Oreilleys to make sure you get the right parts, and buy him lunch..... Enjoy your summer...an overheated car and related repairs will turn it sour in a hurry. (edit) wow,... if you have the dexcool, then yes thats orange. There's not anything on that side of the vehicle that would be that color. short of discolored and moldy a/c condensation (highly unlikely) if its brake fluid you would know it by now. power steering is red or clear, Even though I consider myself highly experienced, I'm stumped.
Q: :) approximatley how many and where would you buy them :/ :) x peacce dudes
LIKE A BAJILLION!!! You can never have too many water pumps. You buy them from the water pump store on the corner of 85th and Broadway, next to the Wachovia Bank branch across the street. P.S.: Africa is NOT a country. LMAO!!!
Q: My toyota 99 camry stalled and would not start. engine turned over and all lights worked. had the oil changed 3 weeks ago and they told me their was a noise and it might be the water pump. my questions are does this sound like the water pump? Do they usually change the timing belt and is this necessary? is this something that we can do at home? thank-you for any info out their!
the engine series you need is the 5S-FE 2200 cc. That should be the standard 4 cyl in the 99 Camry. the Celica GT used the same engine series (the regular Celica used as smaller engine). the real proof is in the vehicle's VIN's. the 5th character in the VIN describes the engine. Both cars should have a G which signifies the 5S-FE engine. Try to get a whole Celica GT w/ engine in it. you may have to transfer the accessories, brackets, motor mounts etc, to the donor engine to make it fit. Actually i dont think a 2000 Celica will work. A 1999 would work. The 00 Celica went to a new engine - 1ZZ or something.
Q: Does a Insurance policy cover if your Well water pump burns out from power outage and breaks seal and burns motor?
power outage doesn't burn out water pump. it would simply stop. so insurance would reject this. cause of burnout depends on type of pump and situation. you'll have to dig deeper for the real reason. [breaking the seal on a pump that is immersed in the water would burn it out. dollars to donut holes though that isn't covered by homeowner's insurance -- would be treated the same as a breakdown of your heating unit due to wear.]
Q: I live in a condo building -- 3 floors, 7 units. In our storage units (right below my unit) is a water pump that was hooked up with the intent of helping the water flow to the 3rd floor. Everytime the pump goes off, it rattles, then makes a loud noise when it kicks off. The developers created a drywall box that houses the pump, which is surrounded by isolation, but it doesn't seem like it helps the noise. The pump also rattles the pipes that connect directly to the pump.My question is -- is this rattling normal for a standard water pump? If so, is there anything I can do to help cut down on the noise? If this is rattling is not normal of the standard water pump, what would it cost to replace it with something decent?
I've been around booster pumps that were extremely quiet -without any soundproofing at all.And the pipes don't rattle. You should find a plumber who knows what the hell he's doing and get that crap replaced.
Q: Question for you. I'm looking for a 12v (no AC converter, please) water pump to drive up to 4 water misters. Needs to run off the battery, without an AC converter (already found those). The pump will pull from a water reservoir and provide cooling relief on hot days through the misters. BTW... the pump should be reasonably small, limited to a few pounds...If you have any ideas, please advise.Thanks again,Robert
Again, I'm going to make you work for this one. Call around to junk yards. See if they have any parts you can use. There's a bunch of Pull Apart places where you can look up online to see if they have any particular part you're looking for. I don't know how much a typical automobile water pump weighs, but I don't imagine it would be too big. Ask around. If you know any mechanics, or just people who work on cars as a hobby, they may know. Sorry I'm not much help in the automotive department. I can put gas in it, start it, change my oil, and change a tire. But as far as the rest goes, I don't know too much.
Q: Was able to remove all bolts except the one in the rear of engine one of the bigger bolts the pulley from the serpentine belt blocks itdoes the pulley need to be removed and if yes then how
I would suggest removing the pulley but I dont know what kind of car it is.
Q: I have a 1996 Volvo 960, wagon. I need to replace the steering and water pump on my wagon, and I am wondering if any how can give me instructions on how to do so...
that's a TOYOTA and not a GM vehicle!! in case you're fortunate you will in no way ought to replace the two pump ata ll!!! B U T &lt;&lt;&lt; you need to do preventative maintenance here. AT this mileage, have all your fluids replaced, yet basically at a TOYOTA dealership! this could preclude the water pump and ability guidance pump to pass undesirable for you ALL fluids ruin with time and age on the line. Even the BRAKE fluid gets extremely poisonous and reason CALIPER and grasp cylinder mess ups. in case you FLUSH AND FILL with clean fluid it truly is going to shop a majority of those issues for you! THE NOISE popping out of your pump might merely be telling you that some fool at a QUICKY LUBE HAS used the incorrect fluid int here!! in case you pass directly to TOYOTA&lt; they are going to use precisely the superb FLUIDS&lt; filters and ALL components. and supply you a real guarantee you are able to pass decrease back to on!!! have confidence ME in this! A TRANS fluid employing a NON TOYOTA fluid will smash the trans. same for directing pump and WATER PUMP! basically genuine TOYOTA coolant could be used in that engine or HEAD injury will effect. sturdy success!
Q: I have a 2000 chevy impala with 85K on it. I have heard/a weird rattle noise from under the hood for some time now. I once asked about it on here and got suggestions regarding front end problems. I had that checked out and the front end is good. I still have the rattle noise along with a high pitched, but not very loud, squeeling noise when I accelerate. I am leaking coolant and it seems to be coming from near one of the belts. Is this a bad water pump? If so how expensive of a fix is it and how involved of a repair is it?
It sounds like a water pump or maybe a loose connection. It is probably time for a water pump if it hasn't been replaced yet. Parts will run under $60 and it probably involves an hour of labor. The Impala is a big car, it shouldn't be hard to get to and remove. Taking it to a shop will run under $100-$150 for everything.
Q: just pulled my well pipe up and installed a new foot valve will i have to fill the pipes back up with water before i can get it to pump
How To Prime A Pump: (Need: Gallon jug of drinking water, a roll of teflon tape, and an adjustable wrench or a pipe wrench.) A. Unplug pump (or cut OFF breaker box at pump, if one). B. Unscrew (counter-clockwise) the largest (3/4) plug on top of pump head. C. Wrap 2-3 flat turns (clockwise only) of teflon tape on threads of plug. D. Pour water into plug hole until full, and quickly start threads of plug by hand. E. Plug in or turn on pump, and finger-tighten plug (air and water will bubble out around threads as you do so) until pump picks up prime. Then wrench-tighten plug when it does. Repeat all steps, if necessary, until you have full water pressure and pump cuts off on its own. Good Luck!

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