Automatic Booster Pump, Home Circulation Pump, Inline Heat Pump
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Ningbo
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
- 5000 unit/month
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Specifications
circulator pump, wet rotor type, 304S.S.
no noise <45dB(A), no leakage, environment friendly, easy installation
Domestic Automatic Circulation pump with automatic switch(flow switch)
This circulation pump especially designed for heating system and used to supply water
and add pressure for mansions of city,villa of subarb,house,to match with industrial equipment,
to supply water in cycle for cooling air-condition,boiler and solar energy,suppy hot andwater and keep warm cycle.
Construction Material
Motor wire:copper
Motor shell: aluminium
Rotor can: stainless steel 304
Impeller: PP
Pump body: cast iron
Shaft: ceramic/S,S
Bear: ceramic/graphite
Technical Data
Liquid temperature range: -10 - 110°C
Pipe size: G1", DN20mm
Port to port length: 180mm
Max. operating pressure: 10bar
Pressure stage, pipe connection: PN10
Electrical Data
Max input power.: 260W
Mains frequency: 50/60Hz
Rated voltage: 110/220V
Max. current: 1.2A
Capacitor size: 5uf
Max flow:60l/min
Max head:13m
- Q: on my 92' toyota celica, i got the heater core by pass fixed and also a new radiator because both were leaking, and now my mechanic tells me i also need a new water pump , which can be really expensive! apparently it is leaking water too, so i was thinkng just filling up my car with water before driving until i can afford to get it fixed.. can this shortcut be done to prevent my water pump causing me further problems?
- in most cases when the water pump starts to leak water then its going out. there is no way to know how long it will last but you dont want to drive it long this way. water pump prices are not usually that bad the last one i bought (chevy s-10) was less than $40. not sure what the price for your car will be but if you can do it yourself then it will save you a lot of money.
- Q: Here is the deal...*Van over heats*Blows Cold quot;heatquot;*Added coolant and water (nothing happened)*Started van, felt the hoses (no h2o flowing thru)I really think my water pump is out, but I am not sure. Does this sound like my water pump. If so, I plan on changing it myself, how do i find step by step instructions to do so.... I have never done it before, but I cant afford to take it to a mechanic! Thanks for your help!
- Will is right. No sense in throwing away money on a water pump if that isn't the problem, your next question here would start off with.....I changed the water pump and still have the same problem..... Take it to a shop you trust, let them tell you what is wrong with it, if you choose to fix it yourself, invest in a Haynes manual. They have the step by step instructions you are looking for. Sounds to me like it is your thermostat though, as a rule, when water pumps go out, they leak, the impellers (the blades that actually pump the water) RARELY give out before the bearings or seals do. IF you choose to start replacing parts without getting it to shop, start with the thermostat. You might be pleasantly surprised.....:)
- Q: What motor with Grundfos pumps
- Our company is used in the original metering pump Grundfos, with the SIEMENS motor is a special motor, designed with Grundfos pumps use.
- Q: What is the easiest way to remove a water pump?
- drain radiator. remove both 21mm motor mount bolts from subframe (front and rear). drain radiator. remove overflow/washer bottle. remove drive belt. remove 8mm bolt that hold lower watertube to front cover. remove lower water tube from water pump. remove heater hoses from water pump. slightly lift engine with floor jack. remove water pump pully. remove water pump. if you still cant get it you will need to remove the 4 studs that go through the water pump. now its just that easy to do
- Q: my water pump went bad on my 1997 chevy cavalier, causing it to leak all the coolant it had in the system. i put water in it til i could get new water pump. changed out water pump. attempted getting air out of system. put more concentrated coolant in system than i did water. bad guessing on my part. ran car around block 5 times. it was fine. this morning on the way to work, it started overheating again. my thoughts : more air in system that's not coming out? thermostat REALLY went bad at same time as water pump???? overheating all because of a little too much coolant??? for some crazy reason, my system needs to be suddenly flushed? Your thoughts? one last thing, the car has always ran perfectly normal temp til water pump went bad.
- Sounds like a typical air lock, you need to bleed the system, should hopefully be a bleed screw often running off heater pipe at the back of engine! Check to see if top and bottom pipe are hot when running, or heater not blowing warm usually a good indicator of air in system! Just found this! To bleed the cooling system on a 1997 Chevy Cavalier, there is a small brass bleeder valve located on the heater pipe that runs along the front of the motor (metal pipe). Open that valve a couple turns and pour in the antifreeze in the reservoir tank until antifreeze starts dripping from the bleeder hole. Tighten the valve, but be careful not to tight too tight, they are soft brass and break easy. Finish filling the reservoir to the Full Cold mark. After driving the car at least one time and letting it cool down, check the antifreeze level on the reservoir and fill as needed.
- Q: I have 2000 ford ranger v6 3.0 I replaced the water pump ten months ago and all of a sudden it's running hot it only runs hot when I stop for a second at a red light or stop sign. I changed the radiator today but still is running hot. The top radiato hose going to the thermostat housing is building a lot of pressure and the water is bubbling in the reservoir what could be wrong? And I took the thermostat out last week
- This Site Might Help You. RE: I have 2000 ford ranger v6 3.0 I replaced the water pump ten months ago and all of a sudden it's running hot? I have 2000 ford ranger v6 3.0 I replaced the water pump ten months ago and all of a sudden it's running hot it only runs hot when I stop for a second at a red light or stop sign. I changed the radiator today but still is running hot. The top radiato hose going to the thermostat housing is...
- Q: Earlier today I was driving and my car shut off at a stop sign. I got it to start again and it shut off at the next stop sign, so after a few minutes I got it to start again and immediately pulled over as there was a small amount of smoke coming from under my hood. The temp gauge didn't say it was overheating, but I think it mightve been stuck, because that had to be what happened. After sitting there for a while it started and stayed that way for a while, I let the engine run. I drove it to the gas station and put some coolant directly in the radiator and the resevoir, and almost all of it leaked right out. I started to drive it home and had to pull over about 6 times to let it cool down because it kept overheating( temp gauge showed it this time). I think its the water pump that is leaking, but I know very little about cars, and was wondering if it could be anything else? Also, the heater wasn't working in the car today at all.
- If it's leaking from the water pump, you may as well do the timing belt, idle and tension pulleys too since they have to come off to do the pump. That pump is visible, you should be able to see the coolant dripping from under the belt drive pulley.
- Q: It hasnt rain in quite a while, but I havent had any problems with the water or pressure, but it seems like the pump is always quot;onquot;. I purchased this house almost a year ago, never had a well, so I now very little about it. I moved in December, rain season here in NC, and remember the pump going on and off, now its constantly running, Is it normal for the pump to be running that much? any websites to read up on how a water well works?thanks
- In the first place the pump should be able to run constantly without a problem, they're made to do this. In the second place go check your tank, see what the pressure is. You must have a water logged tank First: unplug the electric to the pump and then drain the tank completely. Once this is done make sure the tank is drained, plug it back in, wait and see where it stops at, the pressure. It should be about 55 to 65 pounds. When it stops have someone flush the toilet, it should slowly go down, it may settle without turning on, some do. If so, flush it again. Watch it again. When it starts up, keep your eye on it, it should go back to where it was to start with. If it doesn't then the volume control on the end of the tank, with the small tubing coming from it to the switch is out and should be replaced. You have to turn it all off again, drain the tank and replace the volume control. If the switch doesn't stop but, it comes to the end and doesn't open to stop and keeps running, then your switch control is shot and you'll have to replace that. If you have a bladder tank, it should say on the side, then you should empty the tank, as in the upper questions and then using an air pump put in about 38 pounds or whatever the tank says to put in the bladder, then fill it with water again. See if that's the problem.
- Q: the water pump from the factory has an extra hole coming out the side its the smaller one on the end of this pic.
- i've always gone by the 30 second rule. even a NEW or emptied for winter motor that must completely fill, 30 seconds should be long enough. if it hasnt begun pumping by that point, i turn it off and give it some time to cool while i double check everything. then i might give it a full 45 seconds. but it wont overheat in less then a couple of minutes. and if its not pumping with the hose hooked up, the impeller is probably bad already anyways. however, if you do even get it near warm, its already hotter then you think it is where the heat is produced, the cylinders, and where you have tight clearances on fast moving parts, the cylinders and pistons. and if it gets too hot, major damage is quickly done. BTW, service period on a merc impeller is always 100 hours or 3 years. or NOW, before the motor is damaged, if unsure of when it was last done. when the impeller is less then $50 (and about an hour labor, if paying for it) and a new motor is THOUSANDS, you cant replace it too often. dennis, you have NO clue. i suggest getting one before you ruin the motor in your own boat. and in the meantime, keep your bad advice to yourself.
- Q: Hi, my mechanic said that I need a new water pump. I have a 1994 Dodge Caravan SE. What is involved with the whole changing of a water pump? He said it would cost about $400 to $500 for the whole job. Is that correct? Were is a good place to go get one? I live in Staten Island New York. Is sears a good place for that job? What is installed when they do this job? Belts or what??? I thank you for your time and any help is greatly appreciated. I will be taking my car in this week and will leave a best answer based on the correct information. Thanks again :-)
- does your van have a 3.0,3.3 or 3.8 litre engine? If it is a 3.0 liter engine then the job involves removing the timing belt. Book time is 4.5 hrs. The other two engine is much simpler, only 1.0 hr to replace the water pump. So since most garages charge about $100/hr it will cost you $450 and $100 respectively. Also it would be wise to change the thermostat and flush the system at the same time. That would be an extra 1.4 hrs or $140. Note: the serpentine belt has to be removed to do this job, so if it is worn replace it. There should be no extra labor, just parts cost.
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Automatic Booster Pump, Home Circulation Pump, Inline Heat Pump
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Ningbo
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
- 5000 unit/month
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
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