• Horizontal Centrifugal Pump System 1
Horizontal Centrifugal Pump

Horizontal Centrifugal Pump

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Tianjin
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TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
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Supply Capability:
99根 unit/month

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General

WDS series horizontal centrifugal pumps have the most outstanding hydraulic performance, the beautiful outline design and the most perfect structure coordination. By utilizing many high scientific methods and the advanced inspection means, WDS type pumps have the unique advantage.Excellent Performance and High Efficiency The advantage of WDS pump comes from the wisdom of many pump experts and gathering the essence of the hydraulic models. There is no hump on the performance curve of pump. Within the scope of wide flow capacity, the pumps can run smooth without disturbing, have high efficiency and lower cavitation.Smooth Running and Low Noise The new driving pattern is adopted in the design of pump, that is, the extended shaft directly drives the impeller. The rotor support parts in the common centrifugal pump are cancelled.No needs coupling. In additional to the elaborating rotor parts, the impeller and the motor use the same shaft to run, so that the smooth operation,less vibration and low noise of pump can be guaranteed.


Description

WDS Structure: 1--- Pump Body 2--- Nut of Impeller 3--- Anti-loose Gasket 4--- Seal Ring 5--- Impeller 6--- Connection Frame 7--- Key 8--- Mechanical Seal 9--- Motor 10--- Base-plate Reliable Operation and Convenient Maintenance The rigidity of shaft is good, for long term operation, the accident probability of pump is very few. The grease is used to lubricating the bearing,so it is convenient to maintain. Due to the adoption of the structure with back opening door, so the pipe needn't dismantling, the impeller and mechanical seal can be dismantled or replaced.Mechanical Seal and No leakage The mechanical seal is used for the gland seal of pump, so the consumption of power is very low, the seal is reliable and no leakage. The high quality seal can keep the pump to run more than 12000 hours. Light Weight, Less Occupying Land and Convenient Installation The most compact structure is adopted in the design of pump, so the weight of pump is light and the land occupied by pump is small. It is very convenient to move or install, especially it is suitable for the high building or the process flow.

Application:

Construction Engineering Circulation of liquid, the heating water in the center heat supply, ventilation and air-conditioning system, the cooling water, the circulation of cooling , water supply, boosting pressure, fire-fighting and the water circulation of swimming pool as well as the water supply and drainage of the other engineering.Industry The conditioning water, the transportation of condensate water and the feed water of boiler in papermaking and refine sugar industry,iron and steel manufacturing, petrochemical industry and generating plant.Environment Engineering The filter installation, water treatment system, dusts collecting installation,re-cooling system, and sewer installation of polluted water as well as sewage treatment. Water Supply The water supply and water distribution, the boosting pressure in the waterworks and the pump station, the man-made fountain or irrigation, the drip irrigation and the irrigation & drainage in farm.

Pumped Liquid

The clean water free from the solid particulate, the solution in chemical industry, the petroleum products and the other similar liquids.

Scope of Application

Flow Capacity: Maximum 1000m3/h Head: Maximum 133m Temperature of Liquid: -50℃ ---- +150℃(for details, please consult with the local agent) For the standard pump: < 80℃ Working Pressure: 1.6MPa/ 2.5Mpa

Series sign

WDS 125 100 200 (A) A R WDS- Series name 125- Dimension of inlet (mm) 100- Dimension of outlet (mm) 200- Nominal dimension of impeller (mm) (A)- Flow grade signal A- Impeller cutting number (indicate with A, B, C,) R- High temperature type (working t >80℃~150℃)

Installation Attachments

Flexible installation foundation Rigid installation foundation Concrete damping base Flange


Q:my water pump went bad on my 1997 chevy cavalier, causing it to leak all the coolant it had in the system. i put water in it til i could get new water pump. changed out water pump. attempted getting air out of system. put more concentrated coolant in system than i did water. bad guessing on my part. ran car around block 5 times. it was fine. this morning on the way to work, it started overheating again. my thoughts : more air in system that's not coming out? thermostat REALLY went bad at same time as water pump???? overheating all because of a little too much coolant??? for some crazy reason, my system needs to be suddenly flushed? Your thoughts? one last thing, the car has always ran perfectly normal temp til water pump went bad.
Maybe the hoses aren't connected properly and water is leaking out? Have you had the bonnet up to look at the engine while it's running to check for leaks? If you can't sort it out, take it to a garage
Q:I have a toyota supra 83 Mechanic said water pump is leaking into engine causing white smoke. He said that hell have to replace water pump nd all gaskets estimated about 500+$ is this accurate? Also water resevoir mysteriously loses water can it be a symptom?
The water pump may be leaking causing the coolant loss. But it is certainly not leaking into the engine. You may have misunderstood the mechanic's explanation of the problem. Where is the white smoke coming from? The engine compartment? Then the water pump may actually be leaking coolant into the engine compartment and onto the exhaust manifold. If the white smoke is coming out the exhaust, it's not your water pump. Car repairs are more expensive today because they are more complex and shops prey on the lack of knowledge that car owner's have about their cars. You wil be charged for the VALUE of the repair, not the actual COST (plus a reasonable profit) of repair. You'll pay about 2x-3x the retail price of the water pump than you would have paid if you bought the water pump yourself. Without that water pump, your car is junk. My daughter paid $700+ to have a $149 alternator replaced.
Q:I just had my water pump replaced and a coolant flush. 35 miles later, my MAL light came on and my mechanic said my thermostat needs replacement. Should this have been done with the water pump work, or could the work have caused the thermostat problem?
My philosophy on thermostats is if I don't have a reason to suspect trouble with it I don't change it. Thermostats don't have any particular life expectancy - the one in my daughter's Accord is 18 years old and works better than new aftermarket thermostats I have tried. I haven't replaced a thermostat in about 15 years. They are often blamed but (until recently, with the introduction of fail open thermostats) rarely at fault. EDIT - I also agree with BR549, although for a different reason. Professionals have to work somewhat differently than DIYers because of where the costs fall. I would rebuild a starter and it would be a lot better than a store-bought rebuilt, but a pro would be taking on unnecessary risks if he didn't replace the starter. His perspective splits the question in two: should the thermostat be replaced during coolant service, and should a professional mechanic replace the thermostat during coolant service? I answer no to the first and yes to the second. The replacement may actually be a step down from the one we know works, but it is also the safer way for a pro to go.
Q:Power went out of my house and we just had it restored, though now the water is no longer running. We called the people who installed our pump and they told us they would need to dig up the well which is going to cost $1500. However i remember a time before where this happened and all we needed to was reset the switch. Do you think these ppl are trying to get me for my money? Does anyone know if there is a less expensive way?
Yes, they are trying to get your money. Check the breaker and see if it needs to be reset. If your pump is not submersible, you will need to prime it. Remove the gauge or one of the plugs and, with a funnel, fill it with water before you run it. This should be repeated until your pump is primed and filling up the tank. Make sure you have a faucet or two opened when you do this. No matter what, your well does not have to be dug up. It doesn't work like that. The power going out doesn't have anything to do with the water in the well or the piping going down to it. If all else fails, call a different well company to get some advice. Edit- If the pump is running ok, it should be primeable. It takes time to do this. If the pumps impeller was damaged by running dry, the pump may need a rebuild or replaced.
Q:Hello, I'm having an issue with grinding/metallic noise from engine bay. Alternator was replaced today and didn't fix. However, when I got the car back from the garage the oil level indicator is saying quot;inactivequot;. I seem to find some answers on the web that say the oil level indicator is in some way connected to the water pump. Car has 95k miles on and I doubt it had been changed. Could this be the cause of the noise? And could anyone possibly tell me which pulley it is on the belt? Many thanks for your time :)
Alternator replaced? Will you be getting credit back for that? Anyway, at 95k it's almost about time to do a full preventive maintenance thing. That includes the water pump, belts, radiator hoses, I would do the tensioner and idle pulley too since one is there already. Would replace the radiator expansion tank too. Change the spark plug and valve cover gasket too while you are at it. The spark plug can be done separately, but it's time to replace them.
Q:the impeller on my calpump pw1200 water pump will not turn. what is the problem? and how do you fix it
CLR soak. Remove the calcium and lime from the tap water use. I would use a 50/50 solution in the inlet and give it 30 min then plug it back in with the in and out in a bucket with the 50/50 mix until it runs like new.
Q:What is the easiest way to remove a water pump?
drain radiator. remove both 21mm motor mount bolts from subframe (front and rear). drain radiator. remove overflow/washer bottle. remove drive belt. remove 8mm bolt that hold lower watertube to front cover. remove lower water tube from water pump. remove heater hoses from water pump. slightly lift engine with floor jack. remove water pump pully. remove water pump. if you still cant get it you will need to remove the 4 studs that go through the water pump. now its just that easy to do
Q:(used in business units, cities in the North)1, how many watts, head M?2 is it fixed or removable?3, portable or heavy?4, how many units? What brand is good (Fire Department, or flood control command, often used brand, model)?5, diving?
Each manufacturer's model is different, with submersible sewage pump is better,Submersible sewage pumps are portable, portable
Q:Earlier today I was driving and my car shut off at a stop sign. I got it to start again and it shut off at the next stop sign, so after a few minutes I got it to start again and immediately pulled over as there was a small amount of smoke coming from under my hood. The temp gauge didn't say it was overheating, but I think it mightve been stuck, because that had to be what happened. After sitting there for a while it started and stayed that way for a while, I let the engine run. I drove it to the gas station and put some coolant directly in the radiator and the resevoir, and almost all of it leaked right out. I started to drive it home and had to pull over about 6 times to let it cool down because it kept overheating( temp gauge showed it this time). I think its the water pump that is leaking, but I know very little about cars, and was wondering if it could be anything else? Also, the heater wasn't working in the car today at all.
This Site Might Help You. RE: water pump leaking? 99 dodge neon? Earlier today I was driving and my car shut off at a stop sign. I got it to start again and it shut off at the next stop sign, so after a few minutes I got it to start again and immediately pulled over as there was a small amount of smoke coming from under my hood. The temp gauge didn't say it...
Q:I have a well water pump and the motor seems to just run but won't transfer water through the line, checked for leakage, etc but no signs. Even tried priming it but it does nothing. Any idea of what could be wrong or how to repair this problem?
. do you have air pressure tank inline of your system ? bet it lost its precharge. Put air gauge on it most are set about 30 psi .. They are usually labeled. For psi

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