CDL Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump

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Loading Port:: Shanghai

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: -

Supply Capability:: 500 unit/month

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CDL Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump

Application:

CDL is a kind of multifunctional products. I t can be used to convery various medium from tap water to industrial liquid at different temperature and with differernt flow rate and pressure .CDL type is applicable to conveying non-corrosive liquid, while CDLF is suitable for slightly corrosive liquid.

Water supply:Water filter and transport in Waterworks ,boosting of main pipeline ,boosting in high-rise buildings.

Industrial boosting:Process flow water system ,cleaning system, high pressure washing system, fire fighting system.

Industrial liquid converying:Cooling and air-conditioning system, boiler water supply and condensing system, machine-associated purpose,acids and alkali.

Water treament:Ultrafiltration system, reverse osmosis system,distillation system ,separator, swimming pool.

Irrigation:Farmland irrigation, spray irrigation,dripping irrigation.

Operation conditions:

Thin, clean,non-flammable and non-explosive liquid containing no solid granules and fibers.

Liquid temperature:

Normal temperature type:-15℃～+70℃

Hot water type:+70℃~+120℃

Ambient temperature:up to +40℃

Altitude :up to 1000m

Pump

CDL is a king of vertical non-self priming multistage centrifugal pump,which is driven by a standard electric motor.The motor output shaft directly connects with the pump shaft through a coupling. The pressure-resistant cycliner and flow passage components are fixed between pump head and in-and outlet section with tie-bar bolts. The inlet and outlet are located at the pump bottom at the same plane.This kind of pump can be equipped with an intelligent protector to effectively prevent it from dry-running, ou-of-phase and overload.

Electeic motor:

Full-enclose air-blast two-pole standard motor

Protection class:IP55

Insulation class:F

Standard voltage :50HZ:1*220-230/240V

3*200-220/346-380V

3*220-240/380-415V

3*380-415V

CDL F 8 2 / 1

CDL--- light vertical multistage centrifugal pump

F---- flow passage components are of stainless steel 304 or 316

8--- rate flow(m3/h)

2---stage

1---number of impeller

Model	Power	Model	Power	Model	Power	Model	Power
(CDL2)	(KW)	(CDL4)	(KW)	(CDL8)	(KW)	(CDL16)	(KW)
2-20	0.37	4-20	0.37	8-20	0.75	16-20	2.2
2-30	0.37	4-30	0.55	8-30	1.1	16-30	3
2-40	0.55	4-40	0.75	8-40	1.5	16-40	4
2-50	0.55	4-50	1.1	8-50	2.2	16-50	5.5
2-60	0.75	4-60	1.1	8-60	2.2	16-60	5.5
2-70	0.75	4-70	1.5	8-70	3	16-70	7.5
2-90	1.1	4-80	1.5	8-80	3	16-80	7.5
2-110	1.1	4-100	2.2	8-90	4	16-90	11
2-130	1.5	4-120	2.2	8-100	4	16-100	11
2-150	1.5	4-130	3	8-110	4	16-110	11
2-160	2.2	4-140	3	8-120	4	16-120	11
2-170	2.2	4-150	3	8-130	5.5	16-130	15
2-180	2.2	4-160	3	8-140	5.5	16-140	15
2-190	2.2	4-170	4	8-150	5.5	16-150	15
2-200	2.2	4-180	4	8-160	5.5	16-160	15

Q: 1996 Eagle Vision tsi,has a small coolant leak,was told it iso.k. due to a water pump pressure release valve?has anyone heard of this on an auto?I thought they were only in hot water tanks at home.: This is a new one to me! All water pumps have a weep hole in front of the water pump bearing to alert mechanics and owners the water pump needs replacing. The pressure inside a cooling system is controlled by the pressure cap on the radiator or coolant recovery tank. Many cars have the pressure cap now directly on the reserve coolant recovery tank. Ford is an example. As pressure builds when the coolant gets hot the relief spring inside the radiator cap allows coolant to pass to the coolant recovery tank @ atmospheric pressure if the pressure cap is located directly on the radiator. As coolant cools a small plunger in the center of the radiator cap opens and coolant returns to the motor and radiator. The whole idea is to completely eliminate air bubbles inside the cooling system. I'd have to actually see this in a Chrysler shop manual as you could be loosing coolant and have no idea where or why. What you're explaining to us doesn't make a whole lot of sense. Someone is whistling sweet nothings in your ear.

Q: What I am trying to explain is that I took my vehicle to be serviced for a water pump. They installed it, but when I got my vehicle back, it started making this clicking noise. I took it back to be diagnosed and they came back to me saying that I need a new engine? (Before I took in my vehicle there was no clicking sound or problems, just the water pump.)Could this be the dealer trying to pull something for their mistake or what?: What kind of vehicle?' Depending on the car they may of had to remove the timing belt to access water pump and possibly not set timing correct or left a tensioner loose or soemthing. Did they tell you why you need a new engine?

Q: The truck has 89k on it and i'm having the timing belt done this week; would it be wise to get the pump changed since it's in the same area, even though it's not leaking; for preventitive maintenance purposes, or is there life left in the pump? I don't want to take it back soon after if the pump does go out: Water pump life is a direct function of proper maintenance, therefore there is no real answer to your question. At 89k you could certainly elect to replace the WP as long as the T-Belt is also being done, but it is purely a preventive maintenance item. Might save you a lot of money later, or it might not. Impossible to say. It will give you more peace of mind though.

Q: My 2000 Chevy Cavalier (2.4L) has been overheating pretty majorly (within a 10 minute drive!) when it's been super cold out, about 5F. I took it to the shop and they told me it was my water pump. Right after getting out of the shop, the problem went away for an entire week and the car's temperature has been at exactly what it's been for years - never past 195. It seems to be back now, though not as severe. It's about 20F now.Could the weather have to do with this??Why would the problem go away like that?I'm female and definitely do not seem educated walking into a shop so they can really tell me anything and I'll buy it. I just wanna see if the problem going away like that makes any sense, or if I should just wait out long trips until it warms up outside.It doesn't look like I'm losing coolant, though my low coolant light goes in and out.I have no idea. Thoughts?Thank you!!: There is the possibility that the water pump cause a wake spot in the system to develop a small leak. The level at the reservoir might not drop but the coolant level in the radiator will drop. Just go back to them and tell them exactly what you said here, and ask to check your coolant level. Outside temperature won't effect it because the car runs at almost 200F

Q: Is it a good idea to turn my pond water pump off at night and back on during the day to lower my electricity bill?: Kenny, Pumps run 24 hours a day and are the chief piece of equipment responsible for keeping your pond healthy. One of the most important things that you can do when setting up a new pond is to get the proper equipment installed. The pump you install should move at least 1/2 of the total pond volume for a water garden. The term “water garden” is assumed to be a pond with lots of plants and some fish. A koi pond usually has few plants and large fish requiring more filtration than a water garden. This type of pond is better off moving at least the full volume of the pond each hour. Besides moving the water you also want to filter the water. The pump should move water through a filter that is sized for your pond. Biological filtration takes several weeks or months to mature to the point that it makes a major improvement on your water quality. The filter needs to run 24 hours a day 7 days a week to work.

Q: I just put a new water pump in my jeep and after I put it in I ran it and it seemed to have a small leak while it was running it seems like it was coming from the crank which is under the water pump so it might be a leak coming from the bottom of the pump. When I turn the car off it is no longer a leak its more like pouring water out. What do you think it can be? I put a gasket and the blue silicone gasket sealant all around it and on it before I put it in so I have no idea. Thank you for the help.: Sound like the new water pump is junk. The water is leaking out of the weep hole. That is a hole designed to leak when the pump bearing is going bad. It is a safety precaution so you don't fry the bearing and lock up your pulley system.

Q: think the water pump is behind the crank pulley but im not certain I've pulled apart the front end but I'm having a hard time getting the pulley off so I want to make sure the part im trying to pull off is not the wrong one.: in time is correct....but if you are really good you don't need to pull of the balancer....although not recomened you can fold the belt behind it if you need to but the proper way is to take it off.....hay desperate times call for despirate measures!!!!....by the way you might want to replace the timing belt idler pulley as well....cause at about 190,000 the bearing will seize

Q: My 1998 Dodge Dakota V6 heater only gets warm, I have replaced the thermostat. I have back flushed the heater core. The heater hose coming from near the thermostat gets hot, but the hose coming from the heater core going to the water pump only gets warm. The large hose coming from the thermostat is hot near the engine, but is only warm near the radiator. Is the water pump bad? If I open the radiator cap there is no signs of circulation. How do I check the water pump?Thanks,Gene: check for leaks in the system, the water pump may show signs of leaks or perhap even make a noise, flush out the radiator, it may be stopped up preventing good circulation, make sure thermostat is installed properly, if there is no signs of leaking,or no noise such a a bad bearing, or water pump not loose when you try to shake it, most likely I would change out the heater core.. and also replace the radiator cap so the system is properly pressurized.

Q: In case our electric goes out we would like to be able to run the water pump (for the well) via solar panel. Can you give me instructions, pitfalls, recommendations, links etc to help me get started?The more solar info i can get the better!thanks 10 points on offer!Our sunlight is unobstructed: watt okorder community it just might make our next news letter. Product Features Sun Powered No Wiring Powered by the sun Fast easy install Energy, electrical saving Recharged by solar panel under sunlight Corrosion resistant CE certified This solar powered water pump is designed for fountains, ponds or other outdoor use. has the ability to work during the night. With the battery pack attached, a full charge during the day can provide up to an additional 4 hours of operation. This solar powered pump also comes with a manual on/off switch. This uses Lead Acid 6V-4AH rechargeable batteries. Solar Panel Dimension: 7X17 Operation Pump Voltage 6V-10V Solar Module 3W Water Lift Max 1.2M Water Flow Max 300L/H LED light (voltage) DC6V What's Included: 1pcs 3W Amorphous Solar Panel 6V-10V DC Brushless Pump 10 Feet Cable Aluminum Frame with plastic spike set fountain head (5 pcs) control housing with Lead-acid battery 6V-4AH fountain light 3 white LED

Q: HelloI am building a small budget underground room. On top of a very waterproof and airtight (besides vents) building, and running a dehumidifer inside, I would like to install a pump underneatth the foundation to suck out water from the soil surronding the building but I'm not sure what kind of pump would be best?Also how would b e the best way to set this up?: What you want is called a sump pump. Most have a system built into them that is triggered by rising water. The idea is to have a hole beneath that allows the inevitable water that will collect a place to go, then when a certain amount gets in the hole, the sump pump comes on and pumps it out to wherever you have the hose or pipes ran to. Being underground, good luck keeping the humidity level down. It won't be easy, and much depends on where your natural water table is, and what it is during rains. Someone in your area might know all that, I don't.

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