• WQ Type Submersible Sewage Submersible Pump System 1
  • WQ Type Submersible Sewage Submersible Pump System 2
  • WQ Type Submersible Sewage Submersible Pump System 3
WQ Type Submersible Sewage Submersible Pump

WQ Type Submersible Sewage Submersible Pump

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
500 unit/month

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WQ Type Submersible Sewage Submersible Pump

WQ submersible sewage pump is submersible pump especially suitable for the delivery of rubbish containing solid particles and other waste water.

 

Features of WQ Type Submersible Sewage Submersible Pump

1) Large flow non-clog hydraulic components, which greatly improve the passing capacity
of waste water

2) Double channel series mechanical seal made of hard anticorrosive tungsten carbide,
which is durable and wear resistant

3) There is oily water probe in the oil chamber, ensuring the safety of pump when
the mechanical seal worn after long use

4) Float switch is functioned to automatically control the start and stop of pump
according to the water level changing

5) Control panel can be fitted to monitor water leakage, overload and over-temperature,
thus to ensure the safety of the pump

6) Fixed automatic coupling installation or movable installation available

 

Application of WQ Type Submersible Sewage Submersible Pump

It is widely used in municipal engineering, buildings, industrial sewage discharge,
and sewage treatment in environmental protection to deliver wastewater, rainwater
containing solid particles and fiber.

 

Working conditions of WQ Type Submersible Sewage Submersible Pump

1) Medium temperature: less than 60°C; gravity 1.0~1.3kg/m³; pH value between
5~9

2) For pump without internal gravity flow circulation cooling system, its motor reveals
above liquid surface by less than 1/3


FAQ

Q: Are your pumps acid-proofed?

A: To choose the right pumps for chemical applications, we do need further details on hydraulic operations as well as on the type, concentration and temperature of the liquid.

Q: Can your pumps mount Eff.1 motors

A: Currently, only on request though this will shortly be a CNBM standard.

Q: Are your pumps protected against dry running?

A: No, unprotected centrifugal pumps are not generally designed for dry running. It is important to give us or your dealer as much information as possible about the system in which the pump is used. Inlet pressure, the type of liquid to be pumped, together with relative density, viscosity and temperature, for example, are required in order to allow CNBM to recommend the right pump with the right gaskets for a long operating lifetime.

Q: How can I get trained on CNBM products?

A: Yes, we provide training courses in our factory (products, general and specific pump technology, hydraulics, and practical applications). Please consult your sales manager or get in touch with our headquarters for more information.

Q: Are your pumps cheaper than those of your competitors?

A: CNBM aims to give its customers the highest standards of quality and service and delivery times, all at a reasonable price.

Q: I am going to replace the timing belt , tesioner and idler bearing on my 2000 daewoo leganza. I noticed some of the kits have water pumps too. It is likely to break like the timing belt?
I would suggest to replace the car itself.
Q: Water pump is STILL constantly running! Since this past thursday, we did:new check valvenew pressure controlnew foot valve (well)well is not dryprime, air pressure are finewe have above ground pump in the basement. we called a plumber and he could do nothing! we have water and pump/tank and everything seem working fine.But the pump is on and off every 30 seconds - 1 minute. It is so annoying and out of ideas what could be wrong.My husband think it could be the tank and suggested that we replace it. But the plumber didn't say anything about the tank. And it is not too old.Do you think it is the tank and we need to replace it? If so, we will do it on this Sunday morning even though it might cost extra charge! please help!!!
I had the same problem with this in my home and I fixed it by simply adding air to my pressure tank. where your well line comes in there you should have a water softener and filters and a tank for holding pressure in the lines. shut off the water to the house and start filling the tank with air until you get to around 46 PSI once that's done turn the house water back on. It should take a lot longer for the pump to kick on now. It's pretty easy and I would definitely try to do it yourself first before calling a repair man out. It'll save you a few bucks!
Q: Weap seal is starting to leak and getting some noise from the water pump. These cars are not as easy as a 1969 Camaro to change the water pump. Can you please give me some guidance? Thx in advance.
It's easier than you think. Pull front covers off under hood that cover radiator area. One is a plastic guard and under that is the metal support. Pull electric fan out by onbolting it from sides and 2 clips on top and eletrical connector. Now you have room to work. Loosen belts by losening bolt in center of pulley then loosen them by turning adjustment bolt. pull off belts then pull off these pullies with their brackets as one unit off front cover. Take off front covers by taking off 10mm bolts. Crank area has a triangle shaped plate and you can and just loosen bottom 10mm bolt and take off the two above. now slide cover up and you can see water pump. Set cams on their marks for reference, they have a dot on cams and a slot on housings. loosen timing belt tensioner on bottom of engine and evenly pull bolts to get slack on timing belt about one inch should be enough. now you can pull pump off and slide it out being carefull not to let belt slip on cams and lose timing. install the same way, then slowly turn each bolt up on hydrolic tensioner to ease tensioner center pin back to position. make sure timing marks are ok then put everthing back by reverse order. Or you can also pull radiator and bottom crank pulley with a 3 jaw puller and replace belt with new one. This involves pulling out tensioner also. tensioner can be collapsed in vice slowly then use suitable pin to go through cener pin and its case to keep it collapsed, set on new belt and pull pin after tensioner is installed to set belt tension. I hope this helps, Iv'e done this on a few 3.5 litres my self. GOOD LUCK.
Q: Car is ford taurus 98.The car had some problems including overheating as thermostat was bad so was was not working. i drove it 25 miles to garage (i had to stop once because too hot to let it cool), i brought it to Ford who replaced the thermostat. Now they tell me some bits of thermostat broke and they need to replace the waterpump and want $620 for it. The other repair were also extremely expensive and i want to bring it to another garage 1.3 miles away on flat road.-1- is it safe to drive 1.3 mile with no water pump or should iget it towed?-2- should i have to pay for the water pump or is it ford's fault if they did not remove the bits of broken thermostat before reconnecting new thermostat to hose ? Can i prove that the pump was working when i came in if i drove 25 miles with it ?Thanks for your help.
driving it 1.3 miles should be no problem, but why do they believe the water pump is bad? Do they have the water pump off the engine yet? It's not impossible for bits of the thermostat to break up and cause a problem, but it IS unlikely. Was the car maintained with the proper coolant otherwise? It is not unlike a garage to get you in for one repair and sell up to another that you do not need. Please answer the questions above... Thanks for responding!! The thermostat is made so that if the spring breaks (which it can),the pieces are captured around the center post and, generally, can't be sent thru the cooling system. When a pump goes bad, it is usually the bearings that go out and they can create a whirring noise and as they get worse, coolant will start to leak where the shaft comes out of the water pump. A simple way to tell if it is bad is to try to wiggle this shaft or look for coolant leaking out the area of the shaft (with the engine off, of course). To answer your original question tho, IF this is legitimate, then you should pay for the water pump. If the water pump is off already, did they take it off without your knowledge? If so, don't drive it. Get them to put the old one back on (free) and drive it down the road. If it's still on the engine, driving it the 1.3 miles shouldn't be any problem. Best of luck to you P.S. One of the responders above said to loosen the radiator cap because the water heats quicker under pressure. THIS IS NOT CORRECT. If the car were to overheat while the cap was off, you run the risk of losing all of your coolant.
Q: Where is the water pump located on a 1993 mitsubishi eclipse with a 1.8 motor
Your water pump would be located on the right hand side of the motor. It has the fan belt running on the pulley in front of it the top water hose is connected to it. I hope this has helped you out.
Q: Is the pump lift horizontal or vertical?
A vertical, vertical lift is one meter (see environment), usually 5~10 times the horizontal distance
Q: It is a 110 shallow well pump for my water source to the house.
On mine when it starts that I usually have a small leak somewhere..when it loses the necessary pressure from drainage..then it kicks back on to build the water back up..
Q: I want to run 1 HP, 220 v, single phase water pump on solar panels without using any batteries. what do I need to do so amp; how do I wire it?
Does a great job of increasing global warming as well, as the waste energy becomes what = HEAT!
Q: What is the difference between a sewage pump and a clean water pump? Why can't sewage be pumped with clean water?
In short, the main difference between clean water pump and sewage pump: impeller and runner design, as well as other parts of the configuration are very different.1., in order to prevent clogging of sewage pump, the main design of large flow channel, so naturally lead to relatively low efficiency, so the head is generally not high. Clear water pump flow smaller, smaller clearance, the head is relatively high.2. in order to prevent the wound, water pump impeller design is more simple but not ring pump, equipped with tips, cloth and other debris can be crushed after the pump, and the impeller water pump is relatively complex, but the efficiency will be significantly higher than the former.3., in order to prevent wear and corrosion, sewage pumps generally use better wear resistance, corrosion resistance, mechanical seal and O ring as the seal of water pumps, and clean water pump without strict consideration.To sum up, we can get a very good understanding of why not water pump sewage problems -- characteristics of channel and the impeller and other key design, resulting in water pump for sewage situation is likely to occur, blocking, winding, wear and corrosion occurs, resulting in damage to pump or scrapped, so water pump can not be used sewage.
Q: I have just replaced the timing belts on my 94 Civic Si and my 00 Elantra GLS. Both were done at different shops, but i got the same hounding to replace the water pump when doing the belt. My Elantra has 66k and my Civic 85k and i know how important the timing belt is-especially with a negative clearance engine like the VTEC. previously, i've never been told to replace the waterpump with the timing belt til now. is this just a ruse to extort more money out of me, or is there some validity in what the guy behind the counter is saying??
Not sure about Elantra, but for Honda, the water pump is driven off of timing belt. If you are going to put in 4 hours of labor tearing up to replace timing belt, it would be silly not to replace the water pump because if water pump goes out, then you have to put in that 4 hour labor again. In my experience, water pump life is around 80 - 120K for most cars.

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