• Submersible Sewage Pump WQ Series System 1
Submersible Sewage Pump WQ Series

Submersible Sewage Pump WQ Series

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ADVANTAGE:
<1>Electrical motor:

High-performance water-resisting squirrel-cage-type motor, Class H stator winding (≤180°C) and longer service life. IP68 protecting class, inserting heat sensor for each phase of stator winding. Direct starting for 3 kW or 3 kW below, ?starting, reduced voltage starting or soft starting for 4kW or 4 kW above.      
Electrical motor also applies to other voltage and frequency.
Fire proof motor conforming to international standard and applying to dangerous occasion is optional, for example dIIBT4etc.

<2>Shaft bearing :
Service free upper/lower shaft bearing is designed as 50000 hours service life, and assembly of temperature probe according to requirement is allowable.

<3>Cooling system:
Cooling system is divided into open-type circulation and cooling system and close-type circulation and cooling system, which ensures normal operation of motor below/above level surface.
Open-type circulation and cooling system: Pumps parts of liquid and circulates it from back side of impeller to clearance between tube cooler and casing to remove heat generated by motor, provided with excellent flow property and performance avoiding blockage  Close-type circulation and cooling system: Eliminate heat with build-in rotating wheel, which is provided with performance of blockage-less and service-less.

<4>Sealing:
Separate motor and pump with two layers of mechanical seal, which provides motor with diplex protection.Mechanical seal material at side of pump adopts tungsten carbide/tungsten carbide and it at side of motor adopts graphitetungsten carbide. Special device and spiral seal groove at backside of impeller provide the unit with long-period and Effective protection without enwinding.

<5>Shaft :
The unit adopts coaxial and shorter-overhang design, which depresses interference of shaft, reduces vibration, depresses noise and prolongs service life of mechanical seal and shaft bearing.

<6>Impeller:
Adopts CFD optimizing design, which transports liquid in perfect flow, speed and maximal efficiency without blockage. User could select impeller model as eddy flow, single channel, duel channel, or multi-impeller according to difference of
pumped medium.

<7>Cable seal:
Separated sealing connection box. Adopt waterproofing and sealing cable,  and  provide  inlet wire with  anti-tension  and anti-wind protection.

<8>Monitoring system:
Equip each phase of motor with temperature sensor that sends out alarm signal ands shut down power supply automatically if motor suffers from overheat.
Optionally equip upper/lower shaft bearing (s) with temperature sensor that sends out alarm signal ands shut down power supply automatically if motor suffers from overheat.Sealing monitoring device is used for monitoring if water immerges into oil chamber from shaft seal. In addition, there is set with individual sensor in motor chamber and connection chamber of motor of 30kW above, which should perform early warning if leakage occurred.


Q:I am selling a 96 eclipse that needs a new water pump. I am willing to sell it for an offer as is, but I would like to fix it and sell it for more, so it is as if I am getting paid for the labor.My question is, is it possible at all to change out a water pump on a 96 eclipse without pulling the engine out? Like through the passenger wheel well access panel or anything?
Ive owned some Mitsubishis... they have an inclination to no longer be the main solid automobiles on earth. I actually have a eagle talon tsi (the swifter yet much less solid kind), and it choose maintenance surprisingly many times. the rs is a little extra solid, yet for my area, in case you do not have funds, and its your first motor vehicle, get something a splash extra solid.... (i'm gonna hate myself for asserting this) look at a Toyota or Honda... i made the blunders of having a ludicrous motor vehicle as my first and that i had no longer something yet problems with it... i had to spend what little funds i had to maintain the piece of crap working, purchase a first rate motor vehicle for now and spend you cash on a date or something :) -do notcontinual swifter then your parent angel can fly-
Q:the car over heats and I hear the antifreeze boiling and it also leaks a small amount of antifreeze amechanic told me i need a thermostat and a new water pump just looking for second opinion.
Always fix the cheaper thing first. So do the thermostat and see if that fixes the problem. The water pump would have to be very bad to be actually causing an overheating problem. Most pumps will make a lot of noise or leak before they actually stop pumping water.
Q:Hey for the past month my car has been leaking coolant, making a wierd noise when i drive it, and saying low coolant when its filled to the top.my husband took it out to get gas this morning and it stopped on him and had to be towed to the mechanicthe mechanic said its the water pump and somethin about anti freeze and this cost almost 300 bucks with parts and laborim just wanting to know if a water pump does indeed cause issues like this before we dish out this kinda money!!! btw its a 96 chevy luminathanks
Yes, most certainly. Sounds like the mechanic knows what he or she is doing and the cost is reasonable. You'd be smart to get a coolant drain and refill after he installs the new pump. Antifreeze should be changed every 2 to 3 years at most.
Q:Water pump 50HZ impeller and 60HZ what is different, why not the same?
60Hz pump and 50Hz pump itself is not much difference, just that the motor speed, the rated speed is 3600 rpm, 1200 rpm, 1800 rpm, the latter is generally 3000, 1500, 1000 etc.. If it is to use the same pump, the difference is that the 60Hz motor pump flow is 50Hz, motor water pump flow of 1.2 times, the lift is 1.2*1.2=1.44 times, power is 1.2*1.2*1.2=1.728 times. So in the actual manufacture, especially some relatively large flow lift pumps, pump motor using 60Hz to use 50Hz thicker than the spindle motor of the pump impeller, the difference between the two, in addition to empty size shaft is different, what basically no difference. As for the data of package angle, the water conservancy models of different factories are different, but I don't know whether there is any difference between them. Most of them make no difference. However, if you want to use the 60Hz pump to achieve the same flow rate as the 50Hz pump, the impeller of the former should be cut to 0.833 times the size of the latter.
Q:2005 pontiac grand prix 3.8 v6There is a scratching type of noise when i start the car. Looked under the hood and it seemed to be coming from the serpentine belt.Took the belt off and and checked the pulleys for any play and turned out the water pump pulley wobbles back and forth too much. Replaced the belt with a new one and want to replace the pulley. It does not seem to have a loose screw so i'm wondering if i can take the pulley itself off and replace it, or would i have to replace the pump too? Still makes the noise with new belt and you can see the pulley wobble a bit when the car is running.
you have to replace the pump ! it,s not the pulley that,s wobbling, it,s the bearing in the water pump that,s bad and you can,t replace the bearing !
Q:I've never had overheating problems before, (although the heating itself never worked great) but today the gauge suddenly spiked while driving at about 50mph. I pulled over and steam was coming off the engine and the cooland tank was bubbling. The coolant was low, but not empty. I put some water in the coolant tank, let the engine cool and drove to a gas station where I got some coolant which I mixed with the water in the coolant tank. That didn't seem to help any. Even after letting the engine cool completely, it spikes after less than five minutes of driving. The radiator and both top and bottom hoses are equally hot. When I tried to start the engine with the radiator cap off, cooland shoots up out the top. The fans are working propely and there is no debris on the front of the radiator. So I'm sort of at a loss. Also, I've had some trouble starting since the problem.
You need head gaskets. Compression from the cylinders is getting into the cooling system.
Q:My timing belt is worn but has not broken yet. The mechanic first told me it would be about $200-250 to replace the belt. Then he called back and said it was going to be $550 because on an Aveo you have to replace the water pump at the same time. I asked if it was possible to do just the belt and he said quot;well the water pump will probably break when we take it outquot;. Is this a sign that I should just break down and go to a dealership so that my water pump won't quot;breakupon removal?
your water pump wont break because you are doing a timing belt. BUT keep in mind that if your water pump should leak in the near future they would have to take the timing belt back off because you have to remove the inside timing cover to get to the water pump. I think that they are trying to actually save you some money in the long run.think of it as insurance. if something happens after the water pump is replaced. you have a warranty on that part(s) and find out how long of a warranty for both parts and labor.
Q:OK so i am new to RVing....I have an older 1971 trailer pull forester....It has a your normal fresh water inlet on the outside of the trailer, fresh water tank, and water pump. My question is actual a double part question #1 When i screw the hose on the inlet and start filling the water tank i hear it going in but i still have no water coming out the faucet...Does this have to do with the water pump? why am not getting water to anything except i hear the tank filling up?!?#2 Is the Water pump A/C or D/C......I have that little pull knob (that i guess turns it on or off) and i was curious if i needed to be hooked up to the Battery in front to make this work? or should it work with the regular AC that everything else is working on?Thanks for any help
I am not completely sure but i'll share my thoughts. I'm not certain but I think the water tank should have a seperate fill up. If your filling your fresh water tank and nothing is coming out of your faucet, my guess would be the water pump. Check and see if there is a reset button on your water pump switch. If not there should be a breaker for it located somewhere in the camper. But if you screw your water hose in to your camper and there is constant water pressure then there should be some water without having to use the water pump. If not then I'm stumped..
Q:Hey all--I just paid $900 at the Volkswagen dealership to get my timing belt, water pump, rollers, and air pump replaced. Is that a good deal? Also, how does the timing belt replacement relate to performance? I noticed my car was a little faster than before (maybe it's because I was driving another car for 2 days).
It makes your car not die. It prevents damage to the engine if you either overheat it because your water pump's died, or damage to the valves and lifters if the timing belt breaks. This is exactly the peventive maintenance the car needs to continue providing reliable transportation for you. I've heard some horror stories from people who have neglected to do this maintenance. They often need a whole new engine, or if they're lucky, just a new head for their engine. $4000 later they're fine. So yeah, $900 was a bargain.
Q:Hello everyone, is the general household deep well pump capacitor how to pick up ah, 220V voltage, a capacitor, capacitor, there are 2 lines, but the motor is 3 lines, how can I put these 7 lines together?.Please don't copy professional theories from others.
220V has two lines (lines 1, lines 2)There are two lines of capacitance (line 3, line 4)There are three lines on the motor (line 5, line 6, line 7)3 11 52 64 7That's plain enough. To change the turn, change any two of the 5, 6, 7, three lines

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