Sewage Submersible Pump WQ Series
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- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
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- Supply Capability:
- -
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General Description
Type CRQW submersible sewage pump is newly developed on the basis of the advanced technology from international. Is used for industry and commerce, the living area，urban sewage treatment plant, waterworks，civil air-defense construction，hospital，hotel and so on. They can also be used in public works, explore, country methane, irrigation, deliver water with impurity. The flow-rate range of the delivery water is 7-10000m3/h, lift range is 7-60m,power range is 0.55-315KW, caliber range is φ25-φ700 mm.
Service conditions
* Medium temperature should not above 60℃, Maximum density is 1.3×103kg/m3.
* If the pump without a build-in self-circulation cooling system, its motor should not expose above water more than half.
* Deliver medium’s PH value is between 4 and 10.
* Solid particle passing capacity is 60% of the inlet diameter, the length of the fiber is 5 times to inlet diameter.
Instruction of pump type
Example: 100CRQW100－15－7.5
100 in the front: Pump outlet diameter is 100mm
CR: Company code, means produced by CREDO PUMP
QW: Submersible sewage pump
100 after: Flow capacity 100m3/h
15: Head is 15m
7.5: Motor power is 7.5KW
Structure
*Type CRQW Submersible Sewage Pump adopts particular single blade or double blade; advance the ability for get across feculence. Fiber about 5 times as pump caliber can across.
*Mechanical seal adopt fresh model cemented carbide rot-proof material, and at the same time, we improved on the airproof to the single-ended double-face mechanical seal, let them work in oil chamber for a long period of time.
*The whole structure is compact;, volume is small, little noise and the energy saving result was apparent. The machine needn’t pump room .It can work just dinning into water, so reduce project cost.
*According to need, we can equip safety protection control cupboard to protect the pump, advanced the safety and reliability.
*The float switch can control automatically, do not need specially-assigned person. It’s very convenient.
*According to need, we can equip automatic coupler installation system. So people needn’t get into the drainage ditch.
*Can be used in all the range of lift ,and it won’t overload.
*There are two different install way, fixed type automatic installation system and movable type automatic installation system.
- Q: was told by a Toyota Service that this would only be 1 hour more labor and cost me about 140 dollars more..and that they always recommend it being done same time as timing belt and water pump replacement....but is really a good idea or not? (if engine is 20 years old..but has ony 150 ,000 miles on it..btw. this is for a 94 Toyota 4 Runner V6 engine
- Do not use that shop again. There's more work than that involved in doing what they say they can do in an hour. I have never had those recommendations for any of my Toyotas that were serviced regularly.
- Q: i need to know how the water pumps, how it transports, where it goes, and how the structure is used to control the direction of the flow. Please help? I'd really like to know., thank you in advance!
- water pumps have impellers which when rotated mechanically by a motor the water gets pumped up from lower level to a higher level depending upon the speed of rotation.the direction of waterflow is regulated by means of pipe lines which have curved bends to regulate smooth flow of water pumps in different directions. there r many differnt pumps each differs from one another.please vote
- Q: water pump
- Flow? Head? suction pressure? Type of pump if that matters to you? You'll get better suggestions if you provide as much information as is relevant.
- Q: gould water pump model Jo5n
- i am assuming you are referring to jet pumps, and not a submersible, you cannot convert a deep jet pump to a shallow. the deep well jet pump has the foot valve down in the well casing. it uses two pipes that go to the foot valve. the deep jet forces water down the well and uses a venturi effect to draw water back up to the tank. the shallow water jet pump only uses one pipe in the well casing. the foot valve is in the pump itself. the venturi is created in the pump itself, and uses a vaccuum type effect to draw water up from the shallow well.
- Q: Difference between primary hot water pump and two hot water pump
- A hot water pump is a water pump circulating between the boiler and the heat exchanger, and the two hot water pump is a circulating water pump between the heat exchanger and the user. That is, there is no relationship between a water pump and heating users.
- Q: Plumber quotes installing system using cross-over valve which some way ties the recirculation through the cold water pipes. This sounds like a short-cut. Are there any disadvantages to this system?
- not sure what you are building or designing, city water or well water or truck tanker delivered water, water boiler for heat is common or isolated with shared heat for hot drinking water or there is a separately heated water heater, inexpensive unlimited water or inexpensive gas or oil are all design factors for plumbing. add-on pumps can improve water pressure or shorten the time it takes to get hot water at the tap or shower.
- Q: I have a quot;Rainbow Lifeguard Quiet One 6000external pump that I would like to use on a new chiller for my tank. The pump is rated at a little over 1500 gallons per hour. I'm debating between a couple of chillers, one that has a max flow rate of 1300 gph and another that has a max of 960.I know that you are only supposed to put any valves on the outflow side of the pump and lessening the flow to 1300 from 1500 doesn't seem like it would be that big of a problem, but I was curious it cutting it back to 960 would be hard on the pump in the long run. (I'm leaning towards the bigger chiller as although it may be overkill for my tank, it would let me have a little more water circulation.)
- I wouldn't restrict it more than about 10% or so personally. I would ask you to think about this: The rated flow rate on a pump is under perfect operating conditions and is usually a mathmatical model that cannot really be acheived in the real world. Your pump probbaly is several gallons per hours behind that. If the tank is on a stand and the pump on the floor, the head pressure alone may slow it to 1300 or below. Additional tubing, especially hard angles will further reduce the flow. I would suggest you get a flow meter ( you can probably borrow one from a plumber for a day) and test the actual flow rate in your set up. Remember that the chiller will further reduce the flow itself. Odds are good you are closer to the needed 1300 than you think. You can also install a small diverter valve in the line. Basically splitting the output from the pump into two lines. One can carry about 1250 GPH and the other the rest which it just returns to the tank unchilled. Hope that helps MM
- Q: What is the part called on a water pump that does the actual water moving. I want only this part to make my own water pump using a different motor and pulley.This is for lifting water 18' high and circulating through 1/2 to 3/4 inch pipe. Hoping to get about 6 gl per min
- Pump okorder /
- Q: the water pump from the factory has an extra hole coming out the side its the smaller one on the end of this pic.
- This is your recirculating pump. If it is a marine pump, it will have a brass backed seal and no heater hose outlet. (have seen them in the casting, but no hole there) The only difference is the casting, as long as it was ordered for the boat, you should be OK. For got to ask, do you have a cabin heater in the boat?
- Q: Had a water pump start leaking, when I replaced it with a new one, it leaked even worse (around the gasket and O rings this time). The process I took...I unbolted everything and removed the water pumpI scrapped everything off with a wire brushI coated both sides of the gasket with red gasket siliconI mounted the new one and bolted it down tightening in a cross pattern(kinda difficult to get everything lined up)It leaked real bad the first time so I loosened the bolts and played with the top rubber seal to make it seat better.It leaked a little less the second time... but still WAY too much.I completely removed it the third time and (totally distroying the gasket) gooped it up with gasket sealer again, along with the O rings and tried again... leaked worse.Considering options... go with a white or black high heat siliconPossibly just using the sealer with NO gasketGooping the HECK out of it with JB-weld and pray!Suggestions?Know what I did wrong here?
- Two questions 1) Did you buy a new gasket? 2) Did you let the sealant set long enough? If you answered yes to both of these than the only thing left is to make sure you have the right type of sealant. Is it the waterproof stuff for waterpumps? You mentioned the stuff was red, it's been a couple of years since I changed a waterpump but I believe it was the BLUE stuff that I needed. But I could be wrong. Take it apart. Make sure it's clean (you can use a wire brush but I find a paint scraper works better) and apply the new gasket to the new water pump then but the whole thing back on the engine. Star pattern tightening the bolts. Test it without putting the clutch fan (I think this still has one) back on just to see if it's leaking. Hope that helps.
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Sewage Submersible Pump WQ Series
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
- -
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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