Sewage Submersible Pump WQ Series
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General Description
Type CRQW submersible sewage pump is newly developed on the basis of the advanced technology from international. Is used for industry and commerce, the living area，urban sewage treatment plant, waterworks，civil air-defense construction，hospital，hotel and so on. They can also be used in public works, explore, country methane, irrigation, deliver water with impurity. The flow-rate range of the delivery water is 7-10000m3/h, lift range is 7-60m,power range is 0.55-315KW, caliber range is φ25-φ700 mm.
Service conditions
* Medium temperature should not above 60℃, Maximum density is 1.3×103kg/m3.
* If the pump without a build-in self-circulation cooling system, its motor should not expose above water more than half.
* Deliver medium’s PH value is between 4 and 10.
* Solid particle passing capacity is 60% of the inlet diameter, the length of the fiber is 5 times to inlet diameter.
Instruction of pump type
Example: 100CRQW100－15－7.5
100 in the front: Pump outlet diameter is 100mm
CR: Company code, means produced by CREDO PUMP
QW: Submersible sewage pump
100 after: Flow capacity 100m3/h
15: Head is 15m
7.5: Motor power is 7.5KW
Structure
*Type CRQW Submersible Sewage Pump adopts particular single blade or double blade; advance the ability for get across feculence. Fiber about 5 times as pump caliber can across.
*Mechanical seal adopt fresh model cemented carbide rot-proof material, and at the same time, we improved on the airproof to the single-ended double-face mechanical seal, let them work in oil chamber for a long period of time.
*The whole structure is compact;, volume is small, little noise and the energy saving result was apparent. The machine needn’t pump room .It can work just dinning into water, so reduce project cost.
*According to need, we can equip safety protection control cupboard to protect the pump, advanced the safety and reliability.
*The float switch can control automatically, do not need specially-assigned person. It’s very convenient.
*According to need, we can equip automatic coupler installation system. So people needn’t get into the drainage ditch.
*Can be used in all the range of lift ,and it won’t overload.
*There are two different install way, fixed type automatic installation system and movable type automatic installation system.
- Q:model # gg9002b serial # 65x626092 what year is it and what is the water pump number
- you okorder /
- Q:does any one know were a water pump is located on a 97 nissan altima? and where can i get a good deal on one?
- the water pump is in the lower unit....hold on, isn't that a car? sure, us boaters are smarter that your average bear, but you'll probably get more useful information by posting your question in the automotive section.
- Q:i have little leak from water pump need to replace it in my mazda 6 2006 v6 3.0l. i have little over 120.000 miles on it. Any body know how much it may cost me?
- I don't know why, but the water pump costs between $125 and $160. That seems a little high. It probably retails for $186. Under normal conditions, you just get things out of the way, unbolt the old pump, clean it up and put the new one in. The problem is the other stuff that gets in the way. I'm just estimating the job will take 5-8 hours. Just multiply times the labor rate in your area. Don't forget the anti-freeze when you're done.
- Q:i need to change my water pump on my vw 1990 gti. the more details and/or pictures the better or links i can go to to show me
- The 1990 4 cylinder was before they ran the pump off the timing belt, so it is still V-belt driven, and it is not necessary to touch the timing belt. Since it is belt driven, you should expect it to be near the passenger side of the engine, but it actually bolts to the front of the engine, near the bottom. In the linked image, they have included the housing, which you see bolts to the side of the block with an O ring seal. It is recommended you remove this housing, so that you can more easily get at all the small bolts holding the water pump to the housing. But there is no reason not to reuse the old housing. This also has the thermostat in it, so replace that at the same time. You may be able to leave the hoses attached if you are working on a lift, from below. The power steering pump may be in the way and need to be lowered. Take the passenger side wheel off. If you have to get at it from the top, it may be much harder, because the AC mounting plate would need to be removed and the head gets in the way, but also possible. Set aside a whole day, just to make sure you have enough time to finish if this is your first one. But you could probably do it a second time in about 3 hours.
- Q:Why such a difference in price. Is the GM worth 4 times the NAPA brand. Both are new for a 2003 Buick ParkAve Ultra with 95k miles. 1st time we're replacing the water pump.
- It depends on which pump you are getting from napa the reman pump or the new pump also that is not the only thing that you will need! you will also need the plastic elbows that go from the water pump to the alternator bracket (as soon as they are touched they will break into a million pieces) there are 2 elbows in the Dorman/help bubble pack both will be needed (they aren't very expensive though) And yes the 4 hours is fine (my database calls for almost 5 hours (4.8) that's because it's an Ultra (supercharger is an interference when accessing the pump) So continue with what you are doing just be sure to get the NEW pump from NAPA
- Q:The water pump gasket in my '98 Forester (130k) recently began to leak, and I will be replacing it in the next couple days. I noticed a stream of bubbles in my overflow container, though, and am wondering if it might be bad head gaskets making the air bubbles. The bubbles only appear after the engine is warmed up, like after a drive around town - there aren't any bubbles when the engine is cold.Is it possible that these air bubbles are coming from the leaking water pump? I hope so, because I'd much rather replace the pump than the head gaskets!
- I have yet to witness a leaky water pump suck air into the cooling system . If you are seeing bubbles in your radiator after the vehicle heats up see if the temperature is also higher [the hot gasses will heat up your coolant and eventually can push your antifreeze to the reservoir tank ] it can result in boil over.I strongly believe you have a bad head gasket that has not entirely blown yet Have the compression checked per cylinder,and for water getting into your oil (it would become a milky brown and become frothy a little bit) if that is all ok, then maybe just maybe a pump sucking air is occurring, though I have never seen it or herd of it before in my entire life.
- Q:Submersible pump and self-priming pump which is easy to use?
- If the injection pump, submersible pump is self-priming pump well.
- Q:Im replacing the water pump in my 1992 toyota celica, and i cant get the pully off! i have been working hard for like an hour, i took the belts off. all i have is good old fashoned sockets and crescent wrenches. do i need to get the pully off? and is it lefty loosey and righty tighty or righty loosy lefty tighty?? because sometimes i hear they reverse it. thanks- jordan
- I think the water pump for this car is timing belt driven, and the pulley is part of the pump. Don't you have the new pump to look at? If it's not driven by the timing belt, then you remove the 4 bolts counter-clockwise, then the pulley should slide off.
- Q:When we turn our water on in the house it will run for a while and then shut off.. It has been coming back on after 5 0r 6 mins.it used to do this about once a week but now it does it every day we don't mess with any breakers because they don't get triped . We are on well and this well is about 7 yrs old anyone have an idea what could be the problem .. If any more info is needed I can reply..
- ANY extra info is a plus. Well size and construction, depth, water level, production test results, and pumping apparatus, all help in troubleshooting problems. The two most likely things I can think of that would make your water pressure act the way it does are as follows. My first guess is that your pump is capable of pumping more water than the well will produce, thus drawing the level of water in the well down to a point where the pump catches some air and quits pumping. The pump continues to turn and when enough water comes into the well to cover the pump, it's starts to pump water again. Second guess is that you have a thermal overload tripping and when enough time goes by, it resets and turns the pump on again. Overloads often trip when you have a low voltage situation at the motor. You can get low voltage form bad connections @ splices or the contacts of the pressure switch. Most well water systems go a long time between maintenence calls, especially at first when EVERYTHING is new. My advise would be to call the contractor that drilled the well and installed the pumping equipment. Hopefully they are one and the same. The contractor knows the original conditions and all equipment used, even the stuff you can't see. Because the system is relatively new, the original contractor MAY be inclined to cut you a deal on repairs. We don't know how long this problem has existed, but perhaps the system really wasn't up to par right from the start. Good luck. When you talk to the contractor, try not to sound to accusatory. He may have done his best with the geologic and economic set of conditions he was given. Nobody can make gold out of lead.
- Q:Ok, I took my '93 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4.0L in to get the serpentine belt replaced, as the old one had snapped. They told me that the water pump had locked up and that's what made the belt break. The thing is, I had to get the radiator and water pump replaced this past summer and I am wondering what might've made my water pump lock up since it is new. The Jeep has a lot of miles and I'm slowly having to fix a lot of things, so I'm trying to be sure that I don't fix the pump just to find another problem. Also, the repair place told me the water pump looks brand new, so I know that it was definitely replaced, but should I contact the place the fixed the pump and radiator and see if there's some sort of warranty on the pump?
- I have a '93 Cherokee too. So I can answer any question you have about it. Water pump failure is caused be bad seal or bearings. Since it locked up, your bearings were the problem. Maybe the belt was too tight? At any rate, before you give all of your money away on any more probs, give me a ring, K. BTW, I changed my water pump out last month. It was an Autozone special w/lifetime warranty. Since it was a replacement, I didn't pay a dime. Contact me via email with any more Jeep probs and I'll walk you through it. Water pumps on '93 Cherokees are tightened throught the Power Steering pump mounting bracket, no tensioner. Replacements is considerably more than a simple belt swap. You must remove the clutch and elec fan to access the water pump bolts. I had to unbolt the A/C compressor and move it out of way. It took me about 4 hours to do the waterpump and thermostat. Not for the faint of heart. But if you are willing to save a few bucks and have access to a few tools, it's all pretty easy.
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Sewage Submersible Pump WQ Series
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
- -
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OKorder Financial Service
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