WQ(D) -ST Stainless Steel Motor Housing Sewage Submersible Pump

WQ(D) -ST Stainless Steel Motor Housing Sewage Submersible Pump System 1

WQ(D) -ST Stainless Steel Motor Housing Sewage Submersible Pump

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Loading Port:: China main port

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1 unit

Supply Capability:: 1000 unit/month

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Application:
Buildings, hospitals, residence, municipal works, traffic construction, factories, cultivation, pharmacy, beverage, seawater, saltwater, long fiber sewage, etc.

Service Conditions:
1,Max. immersion depth:5m.
2,Max. liquid temperature: +60°C.
3,PH: 304(4-10), 316(2-13).

Product Introduction:
1. WQ(D)-S stainless steel casting sewage submersible pumps use impeller structure of single or double channel, which improves sewage discharge capacity. It can discharge fibers which are five times larger than the pump caliber and solid particles which are as large as 50% of the outlet caliber.
2. It uses VITON double mechanical seal, radial "O" ring, which perfects seal function of the pump.
3. With precision casting casing, it is corrosion-resistant, energy-saving, light, beautiful, easy to maintain, free from the pump room and able to serve as soon as put into water. Therefore, it can reduce the construction cost.
4. Please install overheating and over-current protector to avoid the motor overloading.
5. For high-temperature liquid, corrosion resistant cable, TEFLON mechanical seal can be choosed.

Performance Data:

MODEL	RATED Q(m3/h)	RATED H(m)	RATED POWER (kW)	VOLTAGE (V)	OUTLET DIA. (mm)	G.W. (kg)	PACKAGE DIMENSION (cm3)
WQD10-10-0.75ST	10	10	0.75	220	50	29.5	60×26×23
WQD15-10-1.1ST	15	10	1.1	220	50	30.5	60×26×23
WQD15-12-1.5ST	15	12	1.5	220	50	31.7	60×26×24
WQ10-10-0.75ST	10	10	0.75	380	50	28.4	60×26×23
WQ15-10-1.1ST	15	10	1.5	380	50	29.5	60×26×23
WQ15-12-1.5ST	15	12	1.5	380	50	31.1	60×26×24
WQ15-20-2.2ST	15	20	2.2	380	50	41.4	66×29×32
WQ25-15-2.2ST	25	15	2.2	380	65	41.4	63×30×24
WQ40-9-2.2ST	40	9	2.2	380	80	43.8	63×29×24.5
WQ50-7-2.2ST	50	7	2.2	380	100	49.2	64.5×33×29.5
WQ15-25-3ST	15	25	3	380	50	46	70×30×25.5
WQ25-20-3ST	25	20	3	380	65	47.2	66×28×32
WQ40-15-3ST	40	15	3	380	80	48.6	70×30×25.5
WQ50-10-3ST	50	10	3	380	100	53.9	70×32×27
WQ15-32-4ST	15	32	4	380	50	50.6	70×30×25
WQ25-25-4ST	25	25	4	380	65	51.5	70×32×28
WQ40-18-4ST	40	18	4	380	80	51.8	70×30×25
WQ50-15-4ST	50	15	4	380	100	57.5	70×28×34
WQ20-32-5.5ST	20	32	5.5	380	50	74.1	82×39×33
WQ30-25-5.5ST	30	25	5.5	380	65	76.8	82×39×33
WQ50-18-5.5ST	50	18	5.5	380	80	79.1	82×39×33
WQ80-10-5.5ST	80	10	5.5	380	100	81.8	82×39×33
WQ100-7-5.5ST	100	7	5.5	380	150	93	82×39×33
WQ20-40-7.5ST	20	40	7.5	380	50	81.4	82×40×34
WQ30-32-7.5ST	30	32	7.5	380	65	83.1	82×40×34
WQ45-22-7.5ST	45	22	7.5	380	80	85.3	82×40×34
WQ80-15-7.5ST	80	15	7.5	380	100	87.2	82×40×34
WQ100-10-7.5ST	100	10	7.5	380	150	100	82×40×34
WQ140-7-7.5ST	140	7	7.5	380	150	100	82×40×34

Q: A direct type pump model with the coupling type, what is the difference?: The direct type shall be the same shaft of the pump and the motor, and the connecting shaft is a pump and the motor shall be 2 shafts, and shall be connected by a shaft coupling.

Q: water pump: Flow? Head? suction pressure? Type of pump if that matters to you? You'll get better suggestions if you provide as much information as is relevant.

Q: How can I test to be sure my water pump is working before I go to the lake and burn up my motor. `72 65hp johnson. thank you.: I use a cut down rain water barrel to drop the outboard leg into. Fill the barrel until water reaches the anti-cavitation fin or a bit higher, start engine and make sure water come from the small tell-tale at the back of the lower cover. If no flow- ensure tell-tale pipe is clear (use a bit of wire), If still no flow, don't risk using engine until pump checked. Do not run the engine without water as you will burn out the pump rotor very quickly.

Q: The water pump doesn't seem to be leaking but I do have a leak under the engine in a place I can't get to. The water doesn't seem to be getting to the upper hoses of the engine. I do hear a odd sound like lose rocker arms but its hard to tell where its coming from.This engine is to big for this boat there is no room to work on it except to pull the engine. What was Four Winns thinking??? A simple fix is a major repair. Thanks: there is very much of hard paintings in getting that activity finished and the cooling gadget could desire to be flushed after that element additionally. i purely did a water pump on a 1999 ford contour and it grew to become right into somewhat worked given the area of that pump. as quickly as I have been given decrease back homestead, i grew to become into sore from my belt to my elbows for some days. a water pump could desire to final approximately one hundred,000 miles style of. i might have charged approximately that lots additionally. if that pump is inner to the block in the back of a conceal, the cost is going up on the subject of the hard paintings in touch.

Q: motor overheats but no leak. water just boils in resorvoir. is it hard to do it on my own?: you may have air pocket.look for the perg valve to let the air out. if your water pump leaks it is bad

Q: Our mechanic wants to replace my husband's water pump in his 1996 Saturn saying it is quite loose. We'd like to wait until next week since its a 2 day job and with our schedules it would be difficult. Can it wait for a couple of weeks? Could this leave him stranded?: There is no way of knowing how long it will last. How long has it been going out? What does the mechanic mean by loose? Is it leaking water? It could last a couple of years, it could go out tomorrow. If you trust your mechanic, which I would over people on here, I would have the water pump changed as soon as possible. When it goes out, and it will, it will leave you stranded, and in the most inappropriate place and time.

Q: Even when all water is shut off in the camper, my water pump keeps running. Even when the tank is completely empty. Does anyone know what is causing this?: Camper Water Pump

Q: We recently fixed our stone water fountain, and now we're trying to get it working. THe pump we had was about 5 yrs old, and didn't work. We've tried to get a new one online, but it only had one inlet for the water to go into the pump, and that got clogged in a matter of about 5 minutes. Since our garden has many trees, it's almost impossible for us to keep the fountain 100% clean all the time to prevent clogging. Anybody know where to get a pump for a 15gal fountain, that has multiple inlets?: www.okorder

Q: I have coolant leaking out and i'm pretty sure now that it is the water pump. Question can water pumps leak even if the cars not running?Like a steady drip every two seconds? Forming a decent puddle after awhile, but when running the pump is'nt making any abnormal noises is that normal? Is there other clues to positively know the pump is bad? I cant believe how hard a job it looks like it would be to replace it there is no room! Anybody with some helpful how to's? how about an estimate on how much a shop would charge to do it?: Put a jack under the oil pan with a 2x4 between the pan and the jack face. You will have to take the serpentine belt loose, the idler is below the power steering pump, and then support the engine on the jack and remove the passenger side motor mount. There is an aluminium L-shaped bracket to remove and then a cast iron piece with 4 bolts holding it to the engine. Remove also the alternator, as it will get in the way. Once the motor mount is out you can remove the serpentine belt. Now you will need to remove the bolts holding the stamped serpentine pulley to the water pump, I believe there are 4 of them and I think they are 8 mm. You cannot, however, take the pulley out until the water pump is off. So now you have to take the bolts out of the water pump and pull it out, clean the mating surface for the new pump, and reinstall, just make sure to put the serpentine pulley over the water pump before you try to put the pump back in. On a side note, before you go apeshit with all of this, pull the iginition module and coil pack mounting bracket off the front of the engine and check the bypass hose to see if it has a hole in it before you go right to the water pump. I had this go on the wife's car, and overzealous idiot that I am, I just assumed it was a water pump. Several hours, busted knuckles, and beers later, I discovered that it was a bad hose that cost me 6 bucks and took 15 minutes to install, not the 40 dollar water pump.

Q: i want to change the water pump on my on a 70 hp (70C) nissan outboard motor and i never pulled a lower unit, not sure what to expect thanks for any help: hi you need to get the workshop manual for your motor. You can go to the library I am sure they will have one. The basics though... make sure you have a lower unit gaskey set, a full water pump rebuild kit and the correct impellor. You need the manual so that you can locate the correct bolts to loosen and the procedure for disconecting the gear shifting mechanism. With the manual its an easy job. without.. its kind of pot luck if you have never done it before. I have changed impellors and water pumps on many different boat motors and i have aways used the manuals. Even now I would still use the manual as a reference to change the impellor and water pump housing in my Johnson even though i have done it before. The manual will probily cost about $25 but it will save you hundreds in the long run as you will be able to trouble shoot other problems.

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