• WL series vertical dry type sewage pump System 1
WL series vertical dry type sewage pump

WL series vertical dry type sewage pump

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
-
Supply Capability:
3000 unit/month

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Pump outline
WL series vertical sewage pump is a new-generation product successfully developed by our company by way of introducing the advanced know-how from both at home and abroad, upon the requirements and conditions of use of the users and reasonable designing and features high efficiency, energy saving, flat power curve, non-block-up, wrapping-resisting, good performance etc.
This series pump uses single(dual) great flow-path impeller or the impeller with dual or three baldes and, with the unique impeller`s structure, has a very good flow-passing performance,
and equipped with reasonable spiral housing, is made to be high effective and able to transport the liquids containing solids, food plastic bags etc. long fibres or other suspensions, with
the maximum diameter of the solid grains 80~250mm and the fibre length 300~1500mm.
WL series pump has a good hydraulic performance and a flat power curve and, by testing, each of its performance index reaches the related standard. The product is greatly favoured
and evaluated by the users since its being put into the market for its unique efficiency and reliable performance and quality.
This product is mainly used to transport city's living sewage,factory, mine etc. enterprises' sewage, slurry, night soil, ash and dregs, paper pulp etc. also for cycle water pump, water supply and drain pumps, exploration, mine fitted auxiliary machine, methane-generating pit in countryside, farming irrigation etc.
Pump structure and advantage
1. The unique impeller design and the great flow-path block-up vesisting hydraulic parts greatly enhance the ability for sewage to pass and effectively have fibre matters and solid grains passing through.
2. It belongs to the integrated electromechanical product with both pump and motor in one shaft to directly drive, resulting in compact structure and stable performance.
3. Of a strong suitability, suitable for transporting city's living sewage, factory, mine etc. enterprises` sewage.
4. Easy operation, low cost for maintenance; can be overally placed outdoors to work without need of machine room, saving great deal of construction fees.
5. Mechanical seal is made of hard wearable corrosion-proof tungsten carbide and features durability and wearbility and can safely and continually run over 8000 hours.
6. The motor is reasonably fitted with, high overall efficiency,good hydraulic performance and low noise at running.

Q: How do you remove it without taking the engine out?
Disconnect lower radiator hose (8286) from the water pump lower tube. Remove the engine mount nuts. Remove the cowl extension panel. Disconnect the water bypass hose and the heater hose from the water pump outlet tube. Remove the water pump outlet tube bolt and position the tube assembly out of the way. Install the lifting eye to the exhaust manifold (9430). Attach engine lifting equipment and raise the engine 127 mm (5 inches). Remove the bolt and the accessory belt idler pulley. Remove the bolts and the generator support bracket. Remove the four bolts and the water pump pulley (8509). Remove the water pump. Remove the five nuts. Remove the five studs. Remove the four bolts. Remove the water pump, lower tube and gasket as an assembly.
Q: What does 'MCL' Unit stands for water pump. How can convert this Meter head of the pump. For example : 50 MCL to ------- MTR HEAD. What is the formula?
Maybe that's correct
Q: i want to make this for a physics project for school. i found a video on how to make it, but i dont understand the physics behind. i have to make a model and a poster explaining the physics. i dont understand what to put on the poster so could someone help me with which physics principles this project would go with?
It isn't practical to give a detailed description here. This is a positive displacement pump. The pump chamber is sealed so that as the piston is moved up the volume within the chamber increases. Water is pushed into this chamber by the outside air pressure. If the pump is located too far above the water source then the air pressure is not sufficient and you will produce a vacuum inside but the water still will not flow. When the pump is pushed down the water flows out. Now the one way valves are critical. We don't want the water to flow back the way it came and we don't want the water that we have already pumped to flow back into the pump. So a one way valve on the inlet will permit water to flow into the pump but not out of it. And a one way valve on the outlet will permit water to flow OUT of the pump but not into it. So with each stroke you a) reduce the pressure in the pump. b) water is forced from the inlet, past its one way valve and then into the pump. c) the pump is pushed down increasing the pressure in the pump. d) water flows out of the pump through the other one way valve and on to the output.
Q: I have replaced the presure switch on my water pump but it switches on and off when it is building up presure instead on staying on until it gets to right presure.Any ideas of what is causing this?
This can get sticky, so pay attention and keep up. Every well system has to have a pump and a resevoir tank. The older style tanks used the air that gets trapped in the top of the tank and compressed, to push the water back out when you opened a tap. However, over time water and air will mix together a little at a time until there's very little or no air left at the top to compress, and we all know that you can't compress water, so when that happens, the pump starts up, the pressure switch realizes that the pressure is instantly at the shutoff point and shuts back down, sometimes over and over in an almost self perpetuating cycle, until you shut the power off. With the advent of the new bladder tanks, where the rubber bladder installed in the center of the tank keeps the air on top at a certain pressure and the water coming in the bottom away from mixing with the air, these problems pretty much go away, until the bladder breaks and allows water to flow up into the top area. Then you have a very expensive old style resevoir tank, with the same old waterlogged problems. If you have either of these types of systems then you can remedy the situation for a short time at least, by completely draining the tank with the pump off and then shut all the valves above and refill the tank, allowing the water to pressurize the air. If you have the bladder tank and it's acting that way, then you may want to replace it, or just use it as is. You can always pressurize it from the top and drain it by putting enough air in it to blow all the water out and then start over.
Q: I am looking for a small water pump that I can turn on and off using a computer, preferably via USB. If someone could please post a link or a method of me doing this myself, I will be very appreciative.
I'd look for a USB IO module, add a relay, and switch a standard pump.
Q: Every year my family spends a week on a house boat at Lake Powell where it can get extremely hot in the day time. I'd like to build a mist system using pvc pipes and mist spray heads to help cool us down.I'm not sure what kind of water pump to buy? I've looked at different kinds from submersible to non-submersible, all with different amounts of PSI and GPM. I am not familiar with water pumps and could use some community insight.I want to make sure the pump I get does not burn out because of the back pressure it will get due to the mist heads only allowing a little water to escape at a time.I imagine my mist system would have 8 - 12 heads, reaching no more then 30 feet from water source to the end.Any pointers? Thanks!
I am assuming your water source will be the lake …. I would be looking at a submersible pump possibly a pond pump but you need to know what the “lift” is going to be …from the point where you string the mister to the pump {possibly a 15 foot lift} and a pump that will give you at least 25psi. Because you are going to have back pressure, the submersible will reduce the risk of burn out. Also you need to build a simple enclosed container this pump can sit in, with at least a 4”water inlet hole covered with mosquito netting, nylon hosiery, or something to filter the water….otherwise you will constantly be removing the mister heads to clean
Q: When using a frequency converter to adjust the pump, what is the relationship between the change of the speed and the efficiency of the pump?
First, the wind pumps such load is usually called square torque load, which is in a certain range of speed and torque is roughly proportional to the square of the speed of N, TL=kn^2, power and speed is proportional to the cube, the energy-saving effect is obvious. Can also be described according to what you pump model, the pump is divided into piston pumps, screw pumps, impeller pumps and centrifugal pumps.Secondly, under the standard condition, the higher the efficiency of the centrifugal pump, the higher the speed determines the size of the centrifugal force, the higher the speed, the greater the centrifugal force, and vice versa. Plunger pump and screw pump is not the same, the speed of speed and efficiency basically no impact. Third, in addition to buying the pump, you can let the manufacturer give you an FM curve, so you can see the frequency of mediation when the water pump efficiency changes
Q: my water pump went bad on my 1997 chevy cavalier, causing it to leak all the coolant it had in the system. i put water in it til i could get new water pump. changed out water pump. attempted getting air out of system. put more concentrated coolant in system than i did water. bad guessing on my part. ran car around block 5 times. it was fine. this morning on the way to work, it started overheating again. my thoughts : more air in system that's not coming out? thermostat REALLY went bad at same time as water pump???? overheating all because of a little too much coolant??? for some crazy reason, my system needs to be suddenly flushed? Your thoughts? one last thing, the car has always ran perfectly normal temp til water pump went bad.
Sounds like a typical air lock, you need to bleed the system, should hopefully be a bleed screw often running off heater pipe at the back of engine! Check to see if top and bottom pipe are hot when running, or heater not blowing warm usually a good indicator of air in system! Just found this! To bleed the cooling system on a 1997 Chevy Cavalier, there is a small brass bleeder valve located on the heater pipe that runs along the front of the motor (metal pipe). Open that valve a couple turns and pour in the antifreeze in the reservoir tank until antifreeze starts dripping from the bleeder hole. Tighten the valve, but be careful not to tight too tight, they are soft brass and break easy. Finish filling the reservoir to the Full Cold mark. After driving the car at least one time and letting it cool down, check the antifreeze level on the reservoir and fill as needed.
Q: Okay, I'm setting up an NFT hydroponic garden and am now looking for the water pump. I would like some suggestions for one that will give a steady stream at a good rate for the plants. But, it must have a minimum lift of 5ft to reach the first level.I would prefer one with a flow rate adjustment but if you could at least make a suggestion to the GPH it should pump for the right flow after a 5 ft climb I could search more in that range for one I like.Thank you!
I think you may want to look at the small pond pumps and just about any nursery or home supply store or landscaping store. they may have the specs on hand, or see if they can demo one for you. some places have a display pond set up already. You also might try a small swimming pool pump and put a voltage regulator in the line and adjust the pump speed that way. maybe rig a sewing machine pedal in the line and use a C clamp for an adjuster. I love rigging thing. It may not work with a gfi plug.
Q: Okay, the fan has the clutch unit on the front with the large nut attaching it to the water pump. Then 4 screws attach the pulley to the water pump as well. What's the best way to immobilize pulley/pump so I can get the fan blade clutch nut unscrewed? Can't hold onto the fan or clutch unit since it simply spins. Can't realy seem to hold onto the pulley either as it prefers to spin? Any suggested best ways?
I will suggest you ASAP Restoration for water removal Charlotte. They can handle any water damage emergency, big or small. They have expertly trained technicians on-call 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, 365 days a year.

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