New type serial vertical desulfurization pump

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Loading Port:: China main port

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1 set

Supply Capability:: 200 set/month

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Quick Details

Place of Origin: Hebei, China
Model Number: YQ ZGB
Theory: Centrifugal Pump
Structure: Single-stage Pump
Usage: Water
Power: Electric
Standard or Nonstandard: Standard
Fuel: electric
Pressure: Low Pressure
Application: slurry
Color: any color
Cerifcation: ISO9001:2008
Shaft seal: mechanical seal
Lubrication: grease lubrication
packing: exporting wooden case
Structure.1: double-pump housing
Application:: chemical industry
Application1: mining. coal
Application.2: power plant
Application.3: metallurgy

Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Details:	standard exporting wooden case or as per customer's requirement
Delivery Detail:	within 10-20 days

Application

Widely used in a serum circulating pump

delivery pump of limestone serum

A discharge pump for plaster

A recovery pump and a silo pump

Feature

1.High efficiency and energy saving

2.corrosion resistance and anti-wear

3.low noise, reliable operation

4.long service life

5.convenient maintenance

Q: How much would it cost if I took it somewhere like midas?: 1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX New Estimate ? Near zip 92010 Estimated price range for your repair $535 - $841 Estimate Includes: Labor: $442 - $564 Parts: $93 - $277 Coolant 2 Hose Clamps Water Pump Water Pump Gasket Estimates exclude applicable taxes, diagnostic charges, disposal fees, and miscellaneous expenses. About this Repair: Water Pump Replacement for your 1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX Best Practices When replacing the water pump, the drive belts may need to be removed. The belts should be replaced if they show signs of wear. The entire cooling system—including all the coolant hoses and fittings, radiator, coolant fan(s), and fan clutch (if equipped)—should be inspected when replacing the water pump. To help prevent future issues, we recommend replacing the thermostat when the cooling system has been opened for repairs (e.g. water pump or radiator replacement) or during a system flush. Common Symptoms Water pumps require replacement if they begin to leak coolant or become noisy. Leaking water pumps can result in damage to the drive and timing belts. A failed water pump can be caused be problems in the cooling system, such as a failing thermostat, radiator, or head gaskets. ? Learn more about Water Pump Replacement

Q: how do get the tub off the washine machine to fix the water pump?: its under the machine

Q: Water pump is STILL constantly running! Since this past thursday, we did:new check valvenew pressure controlnew foot valve (well)well is not dryprime, air pressure are finewe have above ground pump in the basement. we called a plumber and he could do nothing! we have water and pump/tank and everything seem working fine.But the pump is on and off every 30 seconds - 1 minute. It is so annoying and out of ideas what could be wrong.My husband think it could be the tank and suggested that we replace it. But the plumber didn't say anything about the tank. And it is not too old.Do you think it is the tank and we need to replace it? If so, we will do it on this Sunday morning even though it might cost extra charge! please help!!!: If the pump is running it is being asked to from some where. The pressure switch is what calls for it to run when the pressure drops. So if the bladder in the tank was bad it could cause an insufficient pressure fall and that is asking for the pump to run

Q: I Have a 1982 Suzuki DT8 Outboard motor, i rebuilt the water pup, new impeller, wear plate, all that. This is the first time iv run it in a barrel, it wont pump water now. But here is the thing, when i take the inspection cover off(the little round cover that lets you acces the shift linkage), and i run the motor, it will pump water. i noticed that wile i have that cover off all the exhaust comes out that hole and not out the bottom, is the exhaust getting sucked in the pump and stopping it from circulating water?: Suzuki Dt8 Outboard

Q: I need to replace a water pump: Just take off the fan belt, unbolt the water pump and fit the new one. Make sure the gasket area is clean and use a new gasket. If it has the fan on it, take that off first.

Q: I will be replacing my water pump tomorrow and my question is can I use copper spay gasket to spray on the water pump gasket?it this stuff good?99 ford explorer 4.0 ohv with 144k,mileshere is a pictures of the product.: Sure, why not? Usually, the metal area when most water pumps are bolted too are cleaned with a scraper of some kind and old gasket matter is removed. That surface should be cleaned, flat, and free of irregularity. Most mechanics, if they use any kind of stickum - like contact cement from a tube, or the costlier, but not-needed specialty sealers, is applied to the pump surface so the gasket stays put and not move when installing the bolts. The glue does not do any actual sealing, just the fiber gasket will. None needs to be applied to the engine side that you scraped clean. Make sense to you? It's probably a good idea to service the cooling system with a non-caustic flush cleaner before hand -since all the coolant will come out during the change. Then add a additive that neutralizes acids with the new anti-freeze.

Q: 1998 jeep cherokee water pump: Two more things to add... 1. Buy a chilton manual. it will help and give step-by-step instructions and pictures. 2. (assuming a 4.0l 6cyl) The water pump doesn't just come off. The bolts holding the water pump also hold the AC, Alternator, and Power Steering pump. Its not a big deal, but it takes a while and you don't take these out, just lay them to the side. Personally, it was worth having the local shop do the work.

Q: I have a '97 Chevy S-10 2.2 with 208K miles. Today on the way to work the heat cut out suddenly.I have had an issue with my engine where the temp will go up and down while on the highway but maxes out at like 215. Today after the heat cut out it was getting up near the redline before going back down to 150.I made sure the coolant was good before coming home but on the way home it was doing the same thing. I changed the thermostat but it's still doing the same thing.When I rev the engine I can see the upper radiator hose collapsing so it seems like there's a clog somewhere but I don't know how to find it. I guess it could be the water pump but then what is causing the suction on the upper radiator hose?Anyone have any ideas?: You have a leak in a hose. I would suspect a heater hose or lower radiator hose. When you put water into the radiator, you still had air in the system, this prevents you from having the required amount of coolant in the system. Find the leak, fix the leak. Jack up the front of the truck to where the radiator cap is at the highest point in the system, then add coolant. Problem solved.

Q: My dads needs a new water pump for his '83 Silverado v8, anyone have a DIY or a schematic or know of where I can find one? Maybe someone could tell me how. He's pretty handy with cars just doesn't know what needs to come off and in what order. -Thanks in advance!: ok, this is every little step you could imagine, in detail, with reasons for doing it as said, in the order ive put it down....negligence on my dads part has caused 2 waterpumps to crack in the winter due to lack of antifreeze, because we just put straight water in it, because the radiator is cracked for the same reason as the waterpumps.(but the block luckily hasnt cracked) remove the fan belt, and lower radiator hose, to drain the radiator, and get the belt outta the way. if its a smallblock, you remove the fan shroud, remove the fan and fan clutch, then remove the 3 bolts on the left, and 2 bolts on the right, after youve drained the radiator. once youve removed the 5 bolts, pull it out. wrap a cloth around 1 of the 4 studs on the waterpump, and take a pair of pliers to break it free, repeat untill all 4 are loose. remove the studs, and take the pump with you to autozone so you can get a core charge. scrape the mounting surface clean(dont get anything in the block). install the studs, and have a cloth around any stud your working with when you use the pliers to tighten it down(to avoid damaging the the threads.).apply silicon gasket sealer to both sides of the gasket, and put the gaskets on the block. quickly put the pump back on, and put the top bolts in for support. put the other bolts on, and tighten to about 10ftlbs minimum. slide the fan pulley onto the studs, and put the fan back on. put the nuts back on, and tighten as tight as you can get them, itd be terrible for the fan to go through the radiator. put the fan belt back on, put the lower radiator hose back on, and put the fan shroud back on, in that order. wait an hour for the silicon to dry, and fill the radiator with the motor running, and go for a testdrive

Q: I bought a salt water filter system for my inflatable pool(14' X 40deep) and filled it up with 80 pounds of salt as the directions call for. Unfortunately Intex did not design the pump correctly and it leaks.There is supposed to be some copper ion exchange with the water as it goes through the system. I returned the salt water system. Since salt is a natural bacterial fighter by itself, can I just add salt once in a while and keep the water salty and use the filter pump that came with the pool? You never see lakewater(which is a little salty) with algae in it unless it is stagnant. With a filter pump this would not happen as the water is being filtered frequently.: I don't think you or others really understand a salt water chlorination unit. The salt is added to the pool water through water circulation of the pool water the ION unit water passes past these two electrodes which in turn give off a chlorine gas which becomes the chlorine requirements for the pool On the ioniser is a dial that is set to a required setting to do with the volume of certain sized swimming pools. Even though one has this unit connected to their pool, they still have to add chlorine to their pool of the chlorine level isn't enough. This can be done in various methods, via a floating skimmer or have pellets put in hair lint pot or scattered over the pool surface, once dissolved in a bucket of warm water. Just by leaving the salt in the water as you suggest won't really do much other than help keep the water salty! This is my opinion I'll not get into a wage or wars over who is right who is wrong! Your trying to get others on your side, because you made the wrong choice purchased a salty pool chlorinator pump your dis- satisfied with your choice I am not going to agree or disagree with your statement other that to say your putting your families health at risk being a skin flint! So you think your doing the right thing, by putting your families health at risk for the sake of a few lousy dollars. Do it properly have a professional to come connect it all up for youin a proper manner!! Surely your families health means a lot more to you than risking a few lousy bucks on the proper unit! Cheers!!

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