Vertical Single Stage Single Suction Centrifugal Pump
- Loading Port:
- China main port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 unit
- Supply Capability:
- 100 unit/month
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Performance of Vertical Single Stage Single Suction Centrifugal Pump
Capacity: 6.3-1600 m3/h
Lift Head: 5-150 m
Rotary Speed: 980, 1480, 2950 r/min
Calibre: Φ 15 to Φ 500
Temperature: 0 to +120degrees
Working Pressure: ≤ 1.6 Mpa
Application of Vertical Single Stage Single Suction Centrifugal Pump
1. Send the fresh water
2. Suitable for industry and city's giving and draining off water
3. It is convenient to form a complete set with other apparatus
4. High efficiency, low noise
5. There are cold water types, hot water type, high temperature type, chemical industry type, oil type
6. Performance is reliable
7. International standard
Performance and Advantages of Vertical Single Stage Single Suction Centrifugal Pump
Highly efficiency, Energy saving, With tube-type structure, easy for installation, Electro-mechanically integrated design, Space efficient,
Easy for service just by disassembling the nut of the pump bonnet and taking out the motor and the actuator unit. Wide application scope.
- Q: I have built my own spray rig to water some stock and tanks and a garden. It is a 330 gallon tank and has a spout at the bottom that i am going to connect a multi purpose pump to. My question is what size pump would i need? I have been looking at Atwoods and Tractor Supply and have seen some 2.1 GPM and a 5 GPM pumps i just don't know which would best suit me. i am planning on having the tank on the trailor and running water hose to a sprinkler or two. I would like to know how man sprinklers are possible on this type of system and still keep good pressure. Thanks for any answers.
- Like the last person, what you've looked at won't do much. Just think of a 5 gal bucket and how fast do you want to fill it up. Also you want pressure behind this water if you want to water with it, so look at the psi on a pump as well as the GMP to determine what will work best for you. I'd say 40psi should be enough pressure to run hoses and sprinklers and remember that the smaller the hose at the end gives the highest pressures. Hope this helps you out some. I'll admit, I'm thinking of this as knowledge of water pressures more than GMP, but I think I've explained something good about your question. Good LUCK
- Q: Multi storey residential buildings also need to set up pressurized water pump room, direct water supply can not be?
- Multi-storey residential building in general can use tap water pipe network pressure water directly, but all regions due to different network differences, in some areas, because of the lower pressure of the municipal pipe network, such as lack of high-rise building 5-6 pressure, can direct water supply cannot meet the demand of domestic water use, then you need the two pressurized water supply. The general water supply equipment needs the construction of pumping stations, and the pump house can be built on the first floor or the ground floor. There are also no water supply equipment, such as pipe pump, frequency conversion water supply equipment, the water supply equipment from outside to see, is a group of stainless steel pipeline, no pumping room. Outdoor box type water supply equipment is also a choice, water supply equipment comes with equipment, can be placed outdoors. Zibo Boshan new Duke water supply equipment
- Q: Every year my family spends a week on a house boat at Lake Powell where it can get extremely hot in the day time. I'd like to build a mist system using pvc pipes and mist spray heads to help cool us down.I'm not sure what kind of water pump to buy? I've looked at different kinds from submersible to non-submersible, all with different amounts of PSI and GPM. I am not familiar with water pumps and could use some community insight.I want to make sure the pump I get does not burn out because of the back pressure it will get due to the mist heads only allowing a little water to escape at a time.I imagine my mist system would have 8 - 12 heads, reaching no more then 30 feet from water source to the end.Any pointers? Thanks!
- I am assuming your water source will be the lake …. I would be looking at a submersible pump possibly a pond pump but you need to know what the “lift” is going to be …from the point where you string the mister to the pump {possibly a 15 foot lift} and a pump that will give you at least 25psi. Because you are going to have back pressure, the submersible will reduce the risk of burn out. Also you need to build a simple enclosed container this pump can sit in, with at least a 4”water inlet hole covered with mosquito netting, nylon hosiery, or something to filter the water….otherwise you will constantly be removing the mister heads to clean
- Q: What will the water pump reversal situation?
- Small amount of water, lack of pressure, but not long time running, so that the pump impeller back cap will drop, loose impeller, water pump may damage.
- Q: I know that the water pump is belt driven, so it would be easy to connect it to my bicycle. What I am wondering is if I can pedal fast enough to make it work. Does anyone know how fast I would need to pedal to operate the pump?
- Mechanical water pumps will move water with any rotation, provided it's a sealed system and there are no obstructions. The flow rate will be determined by the RPM of the water pump. This is proportional to the pulley sizes of the drive pulley to the water pump pulley. 600 RPM for a water pump at idle is sufficient for the cooling system design and the engine heat load at idle. Without knowing the specifics of your application, it would be hard to tell how fast you would need to pedal.
- Q: My Ram is leaking collant bad but it doesnt seem to be coming from the water pump it seems like it is coming from directly below the water pump. What part is this and is it even possible for this part to be leaking coolant?
- There is a weep hole in the water pump housing on the underside of the shaft. When the seal goes out, coolant will leak from this hole. If you get a mirror, you can see it, or go to a parts store and ask to see one. You need a water pump. If you wait too long and the bearing goes out completely, you may be 40 miles from home with no coolant in your radiator.
- Q: first off i should say it is below freezing here....with that said, the water pump pulley is not turnning so.. the fan belt busted which leads me to believe the water pump is frozen...... right?i am currently traveling and have little money to spend on a new water pumpis there any way that anyone may know to dethaw a frozen water pump without damaging it?... i should say, the motor is running great, no cracks or leaks from the cold.
- when a pump is froze like you say the bearings are shot and you must replace the pump
- Q: i have a 1991 Jeep Cherokee, started overheating last week, i flushed out the radiator with water, i replaced the thermostat, overheated again, i felt the top radiator hose it was cold. so i replaced the water pump. still overheated. every time i drain the system when i refill it i had red to fill the radiator and reservoir, leave the radiator cap off, then start the engine and turn the heat on max, the radiator burps the air bubble out, then the coolant level in the radiator starts going up and down, my thermostat is rated at 195, when the guage hits 210 hot coolant sprays out of the radiator, but the top radiator hose is cold, what am i doing wrong? is there air still trapped in that top radiator hose?
- id say its the radiator after all what ya replaced. have it checked out at a shop. before ya do though ya might do a complete flush of the motor and the cooling system. might be a blockage in a water jacket in the motor. ya can buy the flush kit at any parts store, its simply a T that ya splice into on of the heater core hoses,hook up a water hose,turn heater on, and wait with the engine running. if theres any blockage it will spit and sputter till its pushed out with the water pressure. let it idle till clear water comes out then drain and add coolant. try this first with water only and if it doesnt solve your problem id say ya need a radiator.
- Q: i have a significant stream of water running out of the coolant return side of the engine under the coolant pipe on a 1997 caravan i will lose a gallon and then it stops until the engine heats up and of course more comes out with expansion
- 1st off, without proper diagnostics you cannot get a proper repair...with that being said... 2nd, I would definately say you have a water pump problem, but all is not lost. Keep 2-3 gallons of water in the back and you'll be fine, 3rd, take it to a repair shop that has the experience necessary to repair your problem. the 3.0 v6's are not easy to work on. To replace the water pump you almost need to take the engine out( at least that would be easier) along with the r/f tire. Best way is to put the vehicle on a lift. My advice...take to a shop. Good luck and hope this helps
- Q: I'm not talking about for a car. Just the standard water pump for you house. Ours won't click on when it's supposed to. First we had to hit the tank itself, and now we have to tap the box on top (I'm assuming some sort of fuse box as there are wires coming out of it). It's getting ridiculous and I'm just ready to buy a new one, but I'm not sure where all you can buy one.
- All you need is a new switch. It' the pressure switch that you are refering to and if you have to hit it then it is shot. About $20 - 30 at the hardware store and easy to replace. Be certain to turn off power 1st.
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Vertical Single Stage Single Suction Centrifugal Pump
- Loading Port:
- China main port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 unit
- Supply Capability:
- 100 unit/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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