• Single Stage Vertical Centrifugal Pump System 1
Single Stage Vertical Centrifugal Pump

Single Stage Vertical Centrifugal Pump

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Shanghai
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TT or L/C
Min Order Qty:
1 Set unit
Supply Capability:
1000 Sets Per Year unit/month

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Q: I recently bought a 1992 Honda Accord. It has high mileage but the records kept on it were impecable up to about the last 3 years. I have read that you need to replace the timing belt/water pump every 80k miles. However; I do not know when it was changed last. The Only record in the book on the subject was back at 90k miles. That was the first time they had the timing belt changed.So How do I know its time to change it again? The car now has 199k miles. I do not want to do unnecessary work before time, however; I also know that the affects it will have on the engine is great if its not done within the right TIME! Is there anyway to know it needs to be done? What kind of signs will the car give? And how much is it going to cost me when it has to be done? Thanks!
can't tell you the price, don't know where you live and where you get yoiur work done, call around.. belts need to be replaced when they're worn. look for cracks, frays and listen for squealing. (sometimes the water pump will squeal when it's bad...) otherwise, take the car in to someone you trust and have them look at it..ESTIMATE only..
Q: is there a surface water pump that can pump water from a 1000 foot well?
If what you mean with surface water pumps are those pumps mounted on the ground to distinguish them from submersible pumps , yes there are surface pumps that can pump water from a 1000 ft well. These are the so called jet pumps or deep well pumps wherein part of the output water is returned back to the bottom of the well pipe through the space between the outer pipe casing and the inner pipe and passed through a venturi opening to create an upward water jet which will push more water upward.
Q: How do I tell the difference between a long and a short water pump? I have a Chevy 350 V8, a crate motor the same size is going in very soon. How do I tell which one I have so that I can get the correct brackets, accessories, etc.?
The short water pump body measure about 3 1/8, while the long pump measures about 4 3/4. That's measured from where the pump bolts to the block to the outside part of the casting. Not including where the shaft is. If you're looking straight down over the motor and it has a short pump, then the front of the timing chain cover and the rear of the pump are almost on the same line. If it's a long water pump, then looking down there would be about a 7/8 space where you can stick your finger. But don't do that, you could hurt yourself. :-) Hope this helps.
Q: The water pump gasket in my '98 Forester (130k) recently began to leak, and I will be replacing it in the next couple days. I noticed a stream of bubbles in my overflow container, though, and am wondering if it might be bad head gaskets making the air bubbles. The bubbles only appear after the engine is warmed up, like after a drive around town - there aren't any bubbles when the engine is cold.Is it possible that these air bubbles are coming from the leaking water pump? I hope so, because I'd much rather replace the pump than the head gaskets!
I have yet to witness a leaky water pump suck air into the cooling system . If you are seeing bubbles in your radiator after the vehicle heats up see if the temperature is also higher [the hot gasses will heat up your coolant and eventually can push your antifreeze to the reservoir tank ] it can result in boil over.I strongly believe you have a bad head gasket that has not entirely blown yet Have the compression checked per cylinder,and for water getting into your oil (it would become a milky brown and become frothy a little bit) if that is all ok, then maybe just maybe a pump sucking air is occurring, though I have never seen it or herd of it before in my entire life.
Q: Was I supposed to lube the water pump or what. I really don't know what it could be making the noise now. But it goes away after about 5-25 seconds of running, what could it be?
It is the belt slipping on the pully before the material warms up from friction to make it grip better. The squeeling sound is the pully and the belt slipping as the motor is warming up. It is nothing to be concerned about and it is definately NOT your water pump. If the sound bothers you, as it would me, then goto your local auto parts store and buy a cheap can of belt stop slip. It costs less then five bucks and it is a sticky substance like stickum or sapp in a spray can that will help your belt to better grip the pullies and it will stop your problem. What you want to do is this, wait until your car is cold and have someone start the car while you are standing over the motor ready to spray the can onto the belt. You will instantly hear the noise quit as soon as you squirt the can onto the moving belt. Once the engine starts and the belt is moving, just hold the spray down for 3 seconds and it will coat the underside of the belt and your problems will be over. You might want to try to spray an area that will allow the spray to coat the underside of the belt, i.e. the part that comes in contact with the pully. You only want to spray the belt while the engine is running and the belt is moving. That way your 3 second squirt will coat the entire underside of the belt as it moves under the spray can. Kinda like oiling a bicycle chain while moving the pedals and spinning the chain while holding the can in one place as opposed to oiling the chain while the chain is stationary and trying to cover the whole chain. It is impossible to reach all the places becuase some will be hidden behind other parts. That is why you want your motor running while you squirt the belt with the can of sticky belt stop squeel. It will stop squeeling immediately as soon as you spray it on the moving belt. The guy at Pep Boys or Advanced auto parts should know what you want.
Q: can you replace a water pump gasket without replacing the whole water pump?
Of course you can they are two seperate items. Obviously you have to remove the pump to remove the gasket. Just make sure that the pump is in good condition, and use a little gasket silicone on the gasket. Dont overdo it with the silicone, just a thin smear on each side. Also make sure all traces of the old gasket are carefully removed from the pump and the block face. Any dirt or old gasket remnants left will cause a leak, so double check before replacing the pump to its position. Cheers
Q: water pump pulley has slight wobble in it. not seeing water yet....is bearing going bad
Could be several things. The pulley is not on straight. The pulley itself is not truly flat when made but still within tolerances allowed by manufacturer. .Has nothing to do with the bushing(bearing) They generally wear out over time and start leaking coolant out.
Q: I just replaced my water pump.fixed.. A week later I've been noticing he might of over filled it because.were the coolant goes.steam comes.out.the little.while plus water.. And.before.I.started my.car I noticed.it was all empty now and my.engine sounds like a mini diesel when it runs.. What's the deal? And I.already filled it up with coolant again
Anytime you replace your water pump. You should replace the thermostat and gasket. Also check the upper and lower radiator hoses to see if either one of them are collapsed.It wouldn't hurt to replace the radiator cap.
Q: My house uses a pump that draws well water. With a family of four, I had never had a problem running out of water, even through 4 morning showers. Recently however, I have started running low and sometimes even run dry of water, although it’s now just me and my wife living at home. The pump is only a couple of years old. A couple of neighbors also have wells and pumps, so I don’t believe the water shelf has run low. The holding tank is at least 15 years old and probably older. I don’t know if it has a bladder, but I think it does. It’s a Wel-Trol brand. I’ve checked the pressure with a tire gauge and it holds at 30 psi. Also, it seems the cut in and out switch has a mind of its own. It especially would continue to run, even though the pressure hit cut-off level. Any ideas or suggestions?Thanks
Could be the pressure switch (cut in and out switch). It is designed to start the pump at a certain low pressure and stop the pump at a desired high pressure. If it is allowing the pump to run past the high pressure limit, it may also not be kicking in the pump at the low pressure.
Q: I REPLACED MY WATER PUMP ON MY 1988 CHEROKEE,THE NEW PUMP STARTED MAKING THE SAME BEARING NOISE.
this probably a dumb question but have you changed the bearing in the idler pulley? i have a 89 jeep that squeaks or squeals, bearing noise, just one bolt takes it off. i pulled mine off and greased the bearing, and put it back in, that took care of the noise. that was 6 months ago and it is starting again so i priced a new bearing, $6, you might need the number off the bearing to order it. make sure u just get the bearing, the whole idler pulley is like $40. I'm only suggesting this cause in my experience water pumps don't squeal, they kinda make a scraping noise then shortly later stop all together. if the pump wasn't leaking it might not have been broke. some times it is the simplest things

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