• Single Stage Single Suction Centrifugal Pump System 1
Single Stage Single Suction Centrifugal Pump

Single Stage Single Suction Centrifugal Pump

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General Description
Single stage single suction(axial suction) centrifugal pump, deliver clean water or other liquid which chemical & physical feature similar with clean water, the temperature less than 80℃.Inlet pressure less than 0.6MPa, it suitable for delivering water in industry, city and farm irrigation.
Heat centrifugal pump, the serial pump design reasonable, installing & repairing conveniently, it suitable for delivery clean water or which chemical & physical feature similar with clean water. Inlet pressure less than 0.6MPa, the temperature not more than 130℃.n It can equipped with boiler and heat-changer, as circulating water pump or feed pump, also used to supply water, for example, supply water in city and mine etc.  

Single stage single suction centrifugal oil pump, suitable for delivery no corrosive liquids and petroleum products, which not contain solids and the viscosity less than 120Cst. Also used to deliver clean water or other liquid which chemical & physical feature similar with clean water, the temperature less than 80℃.Inlet pressure less than 0.6MPa

Performance range
Capacity Q : 6.3~400m3/h        
Head H : 5~125m

Structure

Pump designed according to National Standard ISO2858.Main parts are pump casing, pump cover, impeller, shaft, sealing parts and cantilever parts etc.
Pump designed at full back pullout, the pump casing and pump cover separate from impeller back face, Pump casing and pump cover are combined a working house; impeller, shaft, and rolling bearing are combined a rotor; cantilever support and bearing parts support the rotor. To balance the axial force, impeller rear cover have balance holes, impeller have wearing. If the axial force small, the impeller rear back hasn’t wearing and balance holes.
Bearing: adopt two radial ball bearing,installed in cantilever support, to support pump shaft, and bear pump axial force and radial force.
Seal:

A: adopted packing seal, in seal, shaft sleeve installed to protect shaft; mechanical seal can be used according to user requirement.
There are two types: packing seal and mechanical seal, in pump cover have water sealing hole, outer water sealing hole and cooling house.
B: adopted mechanical seal; packing seal can be used according to user requirement.
Type of sealing and cooling has several kinds as follow:
(1) packing sealing: itself water sealing without cooling water
(2) packing sealing: itself water sealing with cooling water
(3) packing sealing: outer water sealing without cooling water
(4) packing sealing: outer water sealing with cooling water
(5) mechanical seal: without cooling water
(6) mechanical seal: with cooling water

Q: Where is the water pump located on a 1998 dodge dakota sport?
The fan is mounted on the front of the water pump. Find the fan and right behind it is the water pump. Should be a big black circle looking thing. I know the water pump is not round. I didn't mean it was round. The thing the fan mounts to is round, which is part of the water pump. Yeah I noticed that too bluto: kinda funny
Q: can't get the pulleys to line up I know I have a mid 70's 400 and the water pump is later than 1969 but I can't find a pulley that works every one is about a half inch off I bought a aftermarket set of underdrive pulley's from march performance and still the same problem the water pump is a half inch off there was no long or short water pump right they are all the same lenght right??? The only difference I know of is that pre 1968 the pumps have a 8 bolt design and after they have a 11 bolt design is that right???
did you happen to loose the aluminum spacer between the water pump output shaft, and the fan pulley?
Q: The pump assembly and the pump are not a thing
Yes, all the auto parts are called assembly, and the pump is the same. It's called water pump assembly. Also, the pump half assembly is the water pump head.
Q: I'm not too familiar with computerized cars, just wondering if the water pump going out would cause the car not to start?
No. Do you have power? Battery, alternator. Does it crank? Starter, solenoid, wiring, ignition. If all the above is ok, then what's left is air, fuel, and fire. You need all these to have a running vehicle. Fuel system-pump, filter, pressure regolator... Air-filter, maf sensor... Fire- plugs, wires, cap/rotor...
Q: $900 for a 96 neon but she says the water pump needs replaced.how much does it cost usually? is it even worth buying?
While it is all apart the timing belt and tensioner should be replaced. It will cost several hundred to have it done. Neons don't get much older the 96, I would pay more like $500 for it. Make sure the head gasket is not leaking.
Q: I am replacing the water pump and want to know exactly where the two o-rings go
There are several rubber seals on a water pump. The biggest irregular shaped seal is obviously for the main portion of the pump (this can not be misinterpreted for something else). The next in size is the o-ring for the thermostat. And 2 additional O-rings (one smaller than the other) are for the return pipes. While removing/pulling out the pump, take care that the pipes do not get pulled outward by the pump. And when putting in the pump just gingerly align the pipes to the holes in the pump and you are good to go.
Q: Is a 3000 watt generator sufficient to power a 3/4 horsepower water pump?My house has a 3/4 horsepower pump that it uses to pump water from the well to the house. I want to purchase a generator that will be sufficient to power this pump in a power outage. Is 3000 Watts sufficient?
1 hp is 746 watts; however start up and power factors need to be considered. A 0.75 hp motor at steady state draws 560 watts at steady state; to overcome start up assume you will need about 1,100 watts (1.1 KW). Your generator is 3 KW so it should do well.
Q: I have a 1992 acura legend coupe V6 3.2 liter engine. My water pump is leaking. How do I tell if I need the 1 tube or 2 tube pump because thats how the water pumps come. Its either the one tube or two tube but I dont know which one I need for my car. also, how much is the cost to install the water pump. Thank You,Josh
go to kargen or autozone and it will tell you the cost. Normally labor is about $50-$100 but if you almost time to do the timing belt, you can change it the same time since all the belts are all right there and this might save you money in the future. If you are handy, you can get a manual and change it yourself, it is not that difficult. or go to search in youtube and sometime, some one video the process for you. Good luck
Q: I was recently driving and noticed my heat gauge in the red. I have a 1992 Honda Accord 4 door LX. When I opened the hood what appears to be water was all over the place. Is this the water pump or something else? I want to fix it this weekend so I was hoping for a better understanding of what it might be. I am aware of the labor involved with the water pump and removing the timing belts to get to it. Thanks a bunch in advance!
since you have aluminum heads im betting your head gaskets are blown if it got into the red. Those 4 bangers dont stand up to the heat well.
Q: The water pump on my 1997 corolla has been leaking, I want to replace it by myself. I did some research online, and get the diagram of the engine structure. It seems to me it is not very hard to do, but who knows, it might end up being a very tricky job. Did anyone replace the water pump on 97 corolla before? How difficult was it? Two things I actually worry: 1. It might be hard to unbolt the water pump pulley, because there is little room insert a wrench. 2. Also, because of the lack of room, it would be also hard to unbolt the timing belt cover (the 2nd/middle cover). A shop gave the quote of $440 to replace the water pump, and I think I should be able to do it myself.
You'll need to have a 1/4 drive short extension and 10mm socket to get the t-belt covers off. Also be sure to loosen the water pump pulley's 4 10mm bolts before removing the alt/ac belt to ease getting the pulley off. Your also going to need to support the engine when you take off the motor mount to gain access to the t-belt. Good luck and hope this helps. The hardest part of the job usually is getting the p.s. belt loose due to it's location while doing the job on the ground. Also you may want to invest in a repair manual so you line the marks up correctly, it's imperative that you have them exactly lined up.Good luck and hope this helps.

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